The folks at Wolf Tooth seem to keep pretty busy, with a steady stream of clever products pumping out of their Minnesota factory. The newest additions to their massive lineup are chainrings meant to work with the new standards established for the SRAM Transmission drivetrain. SRAM left their tried and true 3-bolt design behind with the launch of the T-type system, but there's nothing preventing those cranks from performing just as well as they did prior to the newest release. The same goes for Race Face's Cinch system, which was a popular aftermarket option for folks looking to replace the original cranks on their bike.
Catering to both the 3-bolt and Cinch crowds, Wolf Tooth has released T-type chainrings (which they refer to as the Drop-Stop B tooth profile) for both of those mounting standards. Both are available in round and oval shapes, and come in a variety of tooth counts.
SRAM 3-Bolt• Drop-Stop B tooth profile
• Round sizes: 30, 32, 34, 36
• Oval sizes: 30, 32, 34
• 0mm or 3mm offset
• Also compatible with eeWings cranks
• Weight: 65-81g
• Price: $76.95 USD
•
wolftoothcomponents.com Race Face Cinch• Drop-Stop B tooth profile
• Round sizes: 32, 34, 36
• Oval sizes: 32, 34
• 0mm or 3mm offset
• Fits all Race Face cranks
• Weight: 63-75g
• Price: $79.95 USD
•
wolftoothcomponents.com Given the wide variety of offset, tooth profile, and fitment standards available, Wolf Tooth made this handy
guide to navigate the lineup. I love to see brands squashing and consolidating standards, as it ultimately makes cycling more accessible to a wider audience, preventing folks from getting priced or aged out as things evolve.
For those wondering how the chainrings work with the new Transmission groupsets, put briefly: very well. I've been running one of the Drop-Stop B 8-bolt chainrings on my
Staff Ride Tallboy, and have noticed zero difference from the stock SRAM ring.
Going to get a high pivot enduro bike next so I can run a ridiculously small chainring + small cassette and not alters the bike's suspension geometry as the main pivot is no longer at the chainring.
Also, come on. We used to have bikes built around a 24t and a 36t chainring and somehow the suspension still worked well enough, so I'm not gonna sweat going from 32 to 28.
@Tristanssid: Good to know! Everything is a tradeoff.
www.trailforks.com/ridelog/view/55439145
www.trailforks.com/ridelog/view/55339479
I’m coming from sea level and riding past 10kft 3k meters sea level on steep trails with flat gravel roads at the beginning or end.
Many designers just pick a bike they like or their top competitor and replicate many of the kinematic properties. It's not like the "designed" value is some perfect number or works together with all other kinematic, fit, and handling parameter in some sort of black magic synergy.
Feel free to experiment with the properties of your bike - after all, that's exactly what R&D teams do, and that's how we arrived at modern bikes being better than old bikes. Those janky contraptions of a quarter-century ago were "designed" to be exactly how they were, and the designers were wrong.
That said, maybe don't put a Wolf Tooth 24T chainring (yes, they make that) on a newer model Ghost Riot (anti-squat not much short of 200%), but go nuts on a older Whyte or Knolly (anti-squat under 80%), as just a couple examples.
Let’s say 2000 miles is ‘a few’ then that’s 100 rides of 20 miles long off road, are you blaming the ring for stretched chains etc?
I don’t ride through gritty dirt, mud and leaves on my road bike (you might not either though if you live somewhere that’s mostly dry but still very different) then as you say drop 10t and change from smooth pedalling to interrupted sprints etc.
Going from a 52t road chainring to a 32t mountain ring means the chainring could be wearing ~75% faster on an MTB system due to the reduction in size, not accounting for any differences in pedaling style or dirt/debris. I'd be interested to see some studies on it, but at the end of the day, once I notice my chain starts to fall off over bumps and impacts is when I look for a replacement.
@therealmancub: I guess I was moreso referencing the fact that when your chain 'slaps' against the chain stay, it's also slapping back into place on your chainring. It looks like it impacts 5-10 teeth. If you watch these slowmo replays just pay attention to the chain slapping back onto the ring, it's not a huge force, but it's gotta cause some wear down the line. www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1XYCVJt3VE&t=74s
The main manufacturers aren't making things in different crank lengths. This is the next obvious vaccine to fill.
Sorry a little off topic
Wolftooth, can you please make that happen?