Pretty sure they always have backups because mechanics are building and rebuilding wheels all weekend. DT doesn’t send the teams a bunch of pre built wheels, they send a bunch of rims and spokes and hubs. A 240 hub is pretty nice and definitely worth saving and lacing to a new rim.
@Lemke: Still, what does it take to use a powered screwdriver to undo the spoke nipples and actually reuse the spokes? Should be less than a three minute job for a 30 euros of spokes. Especially if you compare it to the time it takes to actually cut those spokes and thread the right spokes in the according holes. Those mechanics don't make 600EUR per hour. Now of course it is hard to see from the picture why the wheel was taken apart. The tire appears to be inflated so maybe they jammed a chain between spokes and cassette. That could indeed be a good reason to replace the spokes for your race run.
@vinay: Because they don't reuse the spokes ever. Period. So if you accept that as given, why would they waste time to not destroy something they'll throw out anyway? Maybe if they had all the time in the world they'd keep the spokes for themselves, but amidst the chaos of the pits, I'm guessing saving spokes is not a top priority for a WC mechanic.
@Lanebobane: Ok, if the protocol is to always replace the spokes then yeah, always replace the spokes. I don't question the mechanics following the protocol.
@vinay: I take the time to unthread each spoke and keep them for future use especially since these are essentially new. You do need to separate and label the left and right spokes as these are usually different lengths. Even if I'm building immediately with the same model rim I straighten each spoke as some will be bent from the previous build process. Unfortunately much more than 3 minutes.
@CM999: It's no secret that competing that the world-class level produces a lot more waste than the recreational level. I wonder which athletes have the highest carbon footprints? This would probably have less to do with cutting spokes and more to do with the size of the support team each athlete/team brings to a race.
When you pull the lever, nothing can transfer between reservoir and the rest of the system. I usually do it when I need to transport or store the bike upside down, to avoid the air from the reservoir bleeding into the system. However, pulling and leaving it like this for a while also allows the air to settle near the reservoir. You can pump the brake to make bubbles migrate and chase them to the top. However, when you push too swiftly you initially push the air along with the oil in the wrong direction (towards the caliper). It is when you (swiftly) release the lever it is that you actually drag oil along with the air upwards. So the best way is, squeeze gently, release swiftly, wait, repeat. But it takes patience. If you repeat above procedure a few times and then fix the lever like this, you already have the bubbles moving and slowly make their way towards the top. If you then release the lever, nearly all air will be in the reservoir. You can then push the pads back, open the reservoir and top it up. Some people prefer to overfill the system (so leave out the step of pushing the pads back) but I prefer to not do that.
@vinay: you got me intrigued. I do not have a bike rack on my car but it is an SUV so I have plenty of room. When I go on solo DH trips I put my bike inside without the front wheel so the bike spends 12 hours on the side. After that, I need to pump the brake like 20 - 30 times until it starts working again. I am not sure what is happening with the bike on the side ( and this is only problem for the front brake, where the wheel is off, the rear wheel stays on and no issues like this).
Will using a strap and slightly compressing the lever help (with brake pad spacer obviously )?
@valrock: Yes, I'd try this and I'm pretty sure it will work in your case. I've got lots of Magura brakes but only from before the MT series so I'm not sure whether the user manuals have changed in the mean time, but this was actually something recommended in these older manuals iirc. A rubber band should do. You don't need a lot of force as you only start to feel force when the pads are already against the disc (or pad spacer), so the master piston has already closed off the port to the reservoir and has starting pushing oil through the hose.
I'm sure the rider would prefer it to be taut
www.youtube.com/watch?v=4w31dUwTqa4
Like a Toygor
I take the time to unthread each spoke and keep them for future use especially since these are essentially new. You do need to separate and label the left and right spokes as these are usually different lengths. Even if I'm building immediately with the same model rim I straighten each spoke as some will be bent from the previous build process. Unfortunately much more than 3 minutes.
But in the end, another bike reigned supreme.
Will using a strap and slightly compressing the lever help (with brake pad spacer obviously )?
Thank you