Ignite Components Showcase Bottom Bracket with Easy Bearing Extraction

Nov 2, 2022 at 10:46
by Henry Quinney  
photo
The bearing removal bolts are fitted on the left, whereas the blank grub screws are featured on the assembled unit on the right.


Whether press fit or threaded, bottom brackets have got better in recent years. Things have definitely improved in terms of reliability, duration, quietness, sealing, or ease of sourcing the right replacement and fitting. In fact, the BSA threaded standards seem to have undergone something of a resurgence, with brands and riders sometimes preferring the easy installation and removal process.

Although it's hard to imagine a completely fresh take on the bottom bracket, given the limitations of having an axle running through two bearings, Ignite Components have come to the task with an open mind and a design that tackles one of the main problems of the modern BB - the whole assembly being consumable and not just the bearings.

No matter what style of BB you use, you often have to chuck the whole assembly and sleeve when all you really want to do is replace the bearing itself. Ignite Components have provided at least part of a solution, with the option of driving out the old bearings with pre-installed threaded bolt-holes. The two bolt holes mean that you should also be able to push the bearing parallel to its sleeve, meaning that the new bearings should be housed more securely with less chance of play and greater shelf life.

photo
photo
The dust seals and centre sleeve are not shown in the pictures. The center sleeve is optional.

The bottom bracket can use either NTN or SKF bearings. The outer interface is hex-shaped, hopefully meaning the end user needs one less special tool. With the bearing extractors built in, removal should be simple, and Ignite even provide a press to install the new bearings.

There is a US patent pending and Ignite says the bottom bracket will be available at the back end of 2022 and will retail for around $200, which, regardless of the ease of service or longevity is expensive for a BB. However, small-batch manufacturing of bespoke parts will always have an associated cost. There will also be a heavy-duty version called the "FFP" using larger thicker 6906 bearings.

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Member since Jun 3, 2014
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168 Comments
  • 157 1
 My dumb friend would like a video showing how these work.
  • 39 0
 The long screws push the bearings out. You probably don't use the long screws while riding. You friend of a dummy
  • 28 0
 I too have a dumb friend requesting said video...
  • 10 0
 Bike Rumor explained it a bit more here. You remove some little screws and use the long screws to push the bearing out. Thing is, if you still need a press to replace them, then you still need a press. bikerumor.com/ignite-components-bottom-bracket-w-bearing-extraction-bolts
  • 7 0
 I think I'm someones dumb friend. HOWEVER, I think I figured it out. With the bearing inside, just screw into your frame and it's a BB. When the bearing wears out, unscrew from your frame and hopefully you haven't lost the extraction screws and you can carefully remove the used up bearing.
  • 12 0
 @Philthy503: I just don’t get it - remove the centre tube, bearing seals and expensive bearings once they are worn out and you have a couple of cups - about $15 worth of cnc aluminium (machined cost, not just raw material)

A bearing extractor and you can replace bearings in a Hope BB, it will last just as long as this one as it has similar quality bearings, costs half as much and doesn’t require a 44mm socket or wrench to install.
  • 9 2
 @gtill9000: you don’t need a press. Hammer them in straight with the old bearing making small adjustments along the way to keep everything lined up. You’d have to do the same thing with a press anyway.
  • 5 0
 @Philthy503: even if you loose the extraction screws just buy any suitable length M4 screws
  • 3 0
 @Philthy503: Even if you lose the screws, the thread is standard metric. Just buy a new set from any hardware store.
  • 5 1
 @gtill9000: You don't need a press. From the bikerumor post:

the bottom bracket kit will come with a proprietary tool that will allow you to install the bearings into the cups using a good ol’ hammer that won’t damage the cups or the bearings. And, this same tool can also be used to install the loaded cups into the frame’s bottom bracket shell by encompassing the whole bottom bracket (including the hex), allowing you to use a 3/8″ socket wrench to thread it into the BB shell and torque it down.
  • 4 0
 @gtill9000: Or bench vice
  • 13 0
 @agrohardtail: @gtill9000

Or. New bearings in the freezer. BB Shells in oven at @200 DegC. They'll drop straight in, no press required. At least they do for Hope BB.
  • 1 0
 @gtill9000: it comes with the BB.....
  • 2 0
 "It is actually very smart"




Says my smart friend!
  • 5 0
 @camcoz69: I'm usually too tired for a bike ride after a long screw
  • 1 2
 @golefty: On a nice carbon frame? No thanks.
  • 2 0
 @justanotherusername: Can you get a 10" set of Knipex Grip Pliers (expand up to 52mm) to have enough leverage to turn that 44mm face? If you can (which I kind of doubt since I'm sure the BB will be bound and impossible to extract without a breaker bar), then you would have less tools in your travel tool box.

Granted, I've got a Gen 1 Kona Process 153SE that uses a Wheels Manufacturing threaded pressfit BB and have replaced the bearings before. They just came out with a slight tap of a screwdriver from the opposite side, so I'm still in denial about ever needing a bearing extactor.

I also have a friend up the road who has a full set of extractors and have never had to work in the nightmare world of a bike shop beating and pounding on seized little metal bits.

This is a part designed by a bike shop employee secretly begging for the world to adopt it as the standard so his nightmares will end.
  • 1 0
 @golefty: water bottle bolts? I wonder where I'll find some...
  • 3 0
 @gtill9000: piece of wood and a mallet....
  • 2 0
 Tell that dummy it’s a conversion to swap your threaded BB to press fit incase you prefer it that way!!
  • 2 0
 @gtill9000: nah, just Sam Pilgrim that shit with a chunk of wood and a hammer
  • 1 0
 @chamoisbutt: please don't mention that movie. I'm fighting re-watching it so very hard.
  • 2 0
 Looks pretty obvious.
  • 1 0
 @SteveB414: Ill tell my dumb friend that
  • 52 5
 Two hundred freaking dollars, for a bottom freaking bracket.

Are they made of titanium? I mean seriously, I have to be missing something unless some SKF bearings are $100 now days or something.

And a parent on a bloody threaded hole to remove the bearing?!

This is peak bike industry right here.
  • 6 2
 I would pay $80 for this. Get rid of the coloring, maybe you'll actually sell some to press-fit owners rather than wonder why your $200 item is in the clearance bin due to zero purchases. It's not like anything there is that expensive, nor is the design really anything special.
  • 15 0
 @nickfranko: Why would someone with a press-fit BB bike buy this at any price when it's for a BSA threaded BB frame?
  • 3 1
 Well I just picked up a couple NTN bearings for work the other day. Looked about BB sized. $54 each…
  • 5 1
 @Lylat: considering a Raceface BB92 BB goes for about $100 now, and is pretty much a throw away after a couple coastal months, any company coming up with a easily replaceable solution is good in my book. This is a little flashy and spendy, but it's a start.
  • 1 0
 @Lylat: www.hambini.com/product/bb30-bearing-kit-6806-2rs-61806-2rs-ntn-nsk-skf-fag-koyo

That’s a pair of bearings for under $40 retail.
  • 2 0
 @ukr77: get a bearing puller and replace the bearings in your raceface?
  • 2 0
 i hope you didn't mean patent because that actual method has been used by none other than SKF in certain bearing carriers ive come across 20 years back when i started in engineering possibly more and secondly its a pretty common way to remove the bearings from toothed pulleys in automotive engine applications ,
  • 3 0
 @Compositepro: yea meant patent (fat fingers…)

Peak bike industry isn’t it, drill and tap a hole and call it innovation.

I’m just waiting for someone to say it’s ‘precision machined’ next.
  • 3 0
 @Lylat: Also, "looked about" can be quite a bit off in bearings. Angular contact? Food industry? Full complement? Non-contact seal, full contact seal, labyrinth seal? Phenolic? Ceramic?

Lot of stuff can alter the price tag. Especially if it isn't "about" bb size.
  • 1 0
 "they cure cancer?"
  • 1 0
 @justanotherusername: that's actually around 55 Canadian if you do the conversion.
  • 1 0
 @mhoshal: for a pair. @Lylat said $54 "each".
  • 1 0
 @dsut4392: I know but he said it was under 40 for a pair I was just pointing out that it's actually around 55 here still a decent price just not under 40
  • 1 0
 @mhoshal: SKF etc are an international brand - Hambini is just a small retailer in the UK so exchange rates may be irrelevant, you may be able to find them for a comparative price in CAD, I don't know.

Trade price will be much lower - Ignite will pay 40% less than this if they buy at any volume.
  • 1 0
 @justanotherusername: im sure people have lots of interesting names for hamboni other than retailer though
  • 20 1
 I have 6000km on a XT bottom bracket on one bike, and 3 years of enduro riding on another. Both are still in good shape, and they’re €18 to replace when they wear out. At $200, you’d want this to last like 30 years to be worthwhile, not factoring in the cost of new bearings.
  • 4 0
 And who keeps a single bike for 30 years?
  • 2 2
 And new bearings are at least half the cost of an XT bb
  • 3 0
 @Weens: what bearings are you talking about? £9.50 bearings are going to be trash unless you have a new amazing brand you'd like to bring to the table??
  • 1 0
 @darkstar66: I agree cheap bearings are going to be trash. I was pointing out that rlish's 30 year payoff period vs replacing XT BBs is under by a lot; it's more like 70-80 years before the BB here saves you money.
  • 3 0
 @PAmtbiker: LOL....me... Rolleyes

one is 40 years old and the other is 39. Both bikes have their original cup and cone BB's and both bikes still have the original bearings....
  • 3 0
 @adm750: I ran the original cup & cone bearings on my 1990 raleigh technium for about 25 years/35000km, and they were still smooth as butter when I swapped the BB over so I could fit a new crank.
  • 17 0
 'No matter what style of BB you use, you often have to chuck the whole assembly and sleeve when all you really want to do is replace the bearing itself'. Been running the same shimano cups for the last 5 years which are apparently unservicable. When the bearings wear out just replace with a set of higher quality ones.
  • 16 2
 The extractors are neat, but you'll need to pull the BB cups anyway to use them, at least the hex interface will allow you to securely clamp it in a vice. @henryquinney the assumption that the user won't just jam one screw in the backside of the housing and hope that the bearing self extracts is pretty bold, this really doesn't insure straight bearing removal, it just adds another hamfister the opportunity to really f*cker the BB cups.
  • 7 0
 Tend to agree here. When used correctly it will extract the bearing fine (small turns equal and opposite) but not the best solution (is likely the cheapest). My thought was you could just have thru holes instead of tapped in the cup and you could have or make a separate tool that was basically a ring that fit around the cup threads (clearance) that had 2 pins pressed in that would locate in those 2 holes in the cup up against the bearing. then you'd need a nut with the same threads as the cup and spin that nut down on top of your pin tool and it distributes the extraction load through both pins onto the bearing at the same time.

But like I mentioned, it's another special tool you'd need for extraction. So not ideal for cost or manufacturing when you want to price for consumers to want to buy.

I do like seeing new ideas though because from them can stem even better ones. Keep the ideas rolling to make it easier for us that do our own bike work!
  • 19 0
 @krashDH85: You're right - that is a risk. However, hamfisters of the world should be given the opportunity to ruin nice things at every turn, just as the non-hamfisted should be trusted with means of working on things without it descending into a farce. It probably will happen, and it'll just be a $200 dollar lesson that you'll never ever forget.
  • 2 0
 How thick is the back face? Is there more than 1-2 threads for the extractor screw to grip? If not, when that bearing couples to the housing you’ll just strip the threads straight out of the cup face. Also, I do have a variety of BB tools, including the Shimano and Wheels Manufacturing interfaces, but I don’t think I have a adjustable spanner that opens to 40ish mm. Maybe some Channel-Locks, but those would mar this thing to bits.
  • 2 0
 @BikesBoatsNJeeps: Knipex pliers wrench to the rescue (as very often)
  • 1 0
 @Mac1987: I’d rather just have the proper tool, as I already do for all my BBs.
  • 2 0
 @BikesBoatsNJeeps: definitely, but they easily beat Channellocks or adjustable spanners and come in handy for all sorts of things. The proper tool is always the best choice, but if you don't have it or there is no proper tool, the pliers wrench is very often the best choice.
  • 14 2
 Weird how people love spending so much money on bottom brackets because they claim they last longer and look cool. A XT bottom bracket is $25 even if you replace it every season which you don't have to as they last quite a while.

Also the "extractor bolts" they use are button head which is pretty silly, Just use a socket head that can take much more torque especially since they are using them to push a pressed in bearing out.
  • 8 0
 If you need that much torque somethings not right
  • 3 0
 @David8048: button head is still not the best bolt type for this, socket heads use a larger sized wrench and have deeper insertion. luckily that could be remedied for about $3 at the hardware store.
  • 3 1
 @knarrr: I see your point, but for this size bearing in an aluminum cup, you really shouldn't need any more torque than what you can apply with a 4mm allen key
  • 2 0
 @David8048: yeah generally something isn't right if your replacing f*cked bearings........
  • 2 0
 @pedrosalas7: Don't forget about corrosion, this happens to be in a bad spot for that, I've fought to get BB30 bearings out of a press-in BB due to galvanic coupling and the dissimilar metals. Even BB90 with carbon cups and metal bearings can be problematic on bikes that see a lot of miles.
  • 2 0
 @pedrosalas7: yeah I mean in theory you shouldnt need much torque but if its cruddy and any corrosion between the two. Button head is probably fine but just a weird choice to pick over a socket head thats more common and probably cents cheaper if it matters.
  • 14 0
 Or buy 7 Shimano xt bottom brackets if you’re running threaded
  • 5 2
 sounds kinda wasteful?
  • 3 1
 @Spencermon: not really as you’ll be buying this thing for $200, then the bearings, depending on quality, will run about the same as an XT BB. So the XT will probably work out cheaper in the long run.

Then when you change BB or the bearings in this they’ll all go in the recycling anyway, so not particularly wasteful.
  • 9 0
 For the PF crowd, $120 gets you a Wheels Manufacturing 'Thread Together' BB and then you can service/replace the bearings as needed after that...
  • 2 1
 @cypher74: wasteful in a material sense and not a monetary sense. Though, who am I kidding. I just buy a bottom bracket and assume it lasts the life of the bike.
  • 4 0
 @Spencermon: i just buy a new bike.
  • 10 0
 "The bottom bracket can use either NTN or SKF bearings."

Why wouldn't it be able to take any bearing of appropriate size and tolerance?
  • 3 0
 One of my first thoughts reading this "article" lmfao!
  • 1 2
 They probably mean it would be a waste to use lower quality bearings in such an expensive solution.
  • 3 1
 @Mac1987: A bearing is a bearing is a bearing, if it meets the dimensional tolerances and the materials meet the performance standards then who cares where it comes from ??? THAT'S our point with this preposterous claim and this ridiculous product.

What's wrong with a bearing from:
FAG
TIMKEN
IKO
KOYO
NACHI
INA
etc, etc, etc... bullshit is bullshit and this $200USD bottom bracket is bullshit! lol
  • 2 1
 @vr6ix: but tolerances, material choices, consistency and sealing definitely aren't the same between manufacturers. Agreed there are more good manufacturers than the two mentioned here, but these are probably the ones they know are up to par. You're right that doesn't mean they are the only ones, but it's like suspension manufacturers saying to use oil type X from brand Y, or lube A from manufacturer B. They can guarantee these work because they know them and tested them. Doesn't mean there isn't anything equal or better out there.
  • 1 0
 @Mac1987: Considering they didn't mention the specs of the NTN or SKF bearings (ie: what's the tolerance? what material? which seal type? etc...), it still reads as bulltshit.
  • 1 0
 @justinfoil: I agree
  • 11 3
 Ah…let me think….

HOPE

Remove BB cups
Place in Hope tool and hit once with soft hammer
Out comes the bearing
Put over cup tool and place Hope drift in and hit twice with a soft hammer

There we go
  • 2 1
 @CFR94: All good unless the usual happens and the inner race falls out.....then you have to grind out the outer race because there's no clearance to get any tool in to extract it
  • 3 2
 really beacause hitting bearings with hammers?
  • 7 0
 Am I supposed to use a crescent wrench to pull these cups?? How would that not mar up my $200 pretty pretty bottom bracket?
  • 1 1
 Put electrical tape on the jaws of the crescent wrench first haha. Or channel lock pliers, your choice.
  • 4 0
 Use a socket. or an aluminum wrench.
  • 8 0
 @ndefeo96: That's a big freaking socket..... almost sounds like a specialized tool.
  • 25 0
 Pretty sure you are meant to put a flat head screwdriver on one side of the flat and smack it with a claw hammer to rotate the cups in and out but ok.
  • 4 0
 @L0rdTom: Definitely this.
  • 2 0
 word
  • 5 0
 According to the bikerumor article, it will come with a tool that fits on a 3/8 socket for installing the BB, and it will serve dual purpose as a bearing press to install new bearings.
  • 3 0
 knipex pliers wrench. or the harbor freight version of them
  • 3 0
 @trialsracer: this, minus the HF version
  • 1 1
 @L0rdTom: vice grips, clamp em' down tight. If you don't have the tool interface you want, vice grips will make the bb cup match vice grips
  • 1 0
 @blazersdad89: Unless you're going to use your teeth, you're gonna need a tool. I'd argue that a standard hex socket that you can purchase at any hardware store or home depot to be standard. If you don't want to use tools you can always use bubble gum to hold your BB cups in.
  • 1 0
 48" stillsons FTW
  • 2 0
 @Rexuis-Twin: instead of vice grips, just grip the bottom bracket in a vice and turn the whole frame - foolproof.
  • 1 0
 @corporaltedbronson: when the bikerumor article gets mentioned multiple times as more thorough, I can't help but wonder if it's a jump-the-shark moment for Pinkbike. NSMB doing a more thorough teardown and initial review is one thing, but bikerumor?!?!?!?
  • 4 0
 "No matter what style of BB you use, you often have to chuck the whole assembly and sleeve when all you really want to do is replace the bearing itself"

False. BB30 and BBright consumables are nothing more than just bearings.
  • 16 1
 ...and to stop the creaking all you have to do is chuck the frame and replace with a fresh one.
  • 4 0
 @Telemahn: not just fresh, but one with an actually concentric and parallel BB shell.
  • 6 2
 Or you could buy a $50 DUB BB and install a new one every 3 years when the old one gets crunchy. That gives you 12 yrs of BBs for the cost of this one BB. YRMV if you live in a more wet climate than I do, but even if you get a new BB every year you're probably going to get a new bike after 4 years and get a new BB anyway.
  • 12 0
 I’ve actually been getting more like 3 months out of DUB BSA bearings in the NW. Worst BB bearings I’ve ever used, by far.
  • 4 0
 I've had way better luck with the Sram DUB BSA than any Raceface cinch BSA bottom bracket I ever had.
  • 4 0
 @als802: Comparing it to RF isn't exactly a high bar to set...
  • 1 0
 @TEAM-ROBOT: E-Thirteen have entered the chat.
  • 1 0
 Do people buy SRAM BB's aftermarket? Is that really a thing?

I'll take my Wheels Mfg DUB compatible BB's all day long as high-quality but not stupid expensive. Quality kit.
  • 3 0
 dward-design.co.uk/product/bsa-bottom-bracket

UK folks - Same design with punch holes, but in ti, and cheaper! £165.00

www.instagram.com/p/CVqenbOsHX1 launched in Oct 2021
Video for you dumb friends... www.instagram.com/p/CiiIgeRA8YO
  • 1 0
 Came here to say this! Dward's instagram is fascinating
  • 9 7
 "The outer interface is hex-shaped, hopefully meaning the end user needs one less special tool"
So instead of a Shimano BB tool (or similar) that's available at any bike shop, a huge socket or wrench is needed that isn't available anywhere except a specialty tool shop?
  • 16 0
 Most hacks have a crescent hammer
  • 6 2
 @krashDH85: This is going to require a pretty gigantic crescent hammer.
  • 3 0
 Pipe wrench
  • 3 0
 I already have a full tool box of pretty much every BB tool ever though
  • 9 0
 @krashDH85: you mean a Swedish Nut Lathe?
  • 2 0
 @ChiefSilverback: lol
  • 5 0
 But Hexagon is the Bestagon
  • 5 0
 The bearings in my nukeproof horizon bb fell out after 6 months and it cost loads less than this
  • 2 0
 Ah yes, a mid BB but it costs 180$ more. I just replaced my 13 year old bearings on my hardtail by simply pressing the old ones out and pressing the new ones in the bearing cups. It took about 15 minutes, since I had to look for my 6mm allen. Just make good bikes and coil forks and we're all golden Smile
  • 2 0
 These appear to have a much wider offset than others, due to the housing and bearings. I already don't use spacers on my ride and don't see any reference to this, or the compatible offsets/spindle lengths.
  • 12 8
 Or you can install a Chris King and never replace the bearings, just service them as needed
  • 1 2
 This. It's kinda unfair though. King had to of sold his soul for that bearing tech. That said this is still a pretty baller option.
  • 2 0
 Hope is another less baller option with great longevity. Been waiting for my Hope 30mm BB to die so I can replace with another color but it hasn't flinched
  • 1 0
 Can’t believe I’ve had to scroll this far down for this comment, also, if you can get the re-grease tool they last longer then forever
  • 1 0
 Am I missing something here?
I have a press fit RaceFace bb that came on my 2016 YT.
The cups have never been removed, I just tap the bearings out of the cups with a drift/punch and then press new bearings back in, all whilst leaving the bb cups in the frame.
My bb has never made a noise or been any trouble.
  • 4 0
 Is there a picture if one installed err?
  • 4 0
 Gonna be a lot of rounded bb cups in their future.
  • 2 1
 What a joke. Buy a blind bearing puller on eBay for $35, and you can remove and change the bearings without even needing to remove the cups from the frame, with any bottom bracket.
  • 1 0
 Or a concrete anchor wedge at the hardware store for a couple bucks.
  • 5 1
 @iduckett: Or just use a long nail or bolt to drive them out from the opposite side

Or dynamite!
  • 1 1
 "The outer interface is hex-shaped, hopefully meaning the end user needs one less special tool."

right, you just need a giant hex socket which you don't have because there are no bolts in your life that big, and which costs more than the BB tool you probably do already have by this point.
Maybe that argument would have made sense in 2004, but now?
  • 2 0
 It comes with that socket
  • 2 1
 If you work on your own stuff you ought to have an adjustable wrench
  • 2 0
 @heffernw: And you're back to a torque value of "eh, good enough" That feels great on a part that's 8 times the cost of a similar performing competitor.
  • 2 0
 I've been getting new bearings in my old cups almost as long as external BBs have been a thing. There has never been a need to throw out the cups.
  • 1 0
 Does this come with plugs for the punch holes? Maybe I am over thinking the second source of water penetration. Cool idea for the more and more common home mechanic.
  • 4 0
 Looking closely at the pictures, it looks like there are grub screws in the holes.
  • 4 0
 @norcorider-13: noticed that after commenting, Pinkbike holding me too it with out the delete button haha
  • 2 2
 @norcorider-13: ready to back out and rattle around in your BB shell!
  • 2 0
 @ChiefSilverback: Not sure how you picture that happening considering they sit outboard of the threads that go into the BB shell...
  • 2 0
 I have the BB installation/removal tool. One of my favorite tools even though I have only used it twice in five years. Lol.
  • 2 0
 It's so easy. And now that most people have gone back to threaded BBs, they last the entire life of the bike. I just got a new bike and almost put a 3 year old DUB BB in it. The bearings were still quiet, but had a TINY amount of play. Since it was a new bike I got a new BB. I kept the old one as a spare, though.
  • 2 0
 If I need an arbor press to push a new bearing in, I'll probably just use that to push the old one out...
  • 2 0
 You could install new bearings in this bb with a bench vice or a swing press
  • 1 0
 @JamesR2026: agreed - and you could also use either to push the old one out...
  • 2 1
 Why not just drill a couple of holes in the back of the BB you already have and just just a little punch to remove the bearings?
  • 3 0
 $200 is about 3 lifes worth of bottom brackets for me.
Thanks anyway.
  • 2 0
 Or... spend that $200 on some proper bearing tools instead and easily replace the bearings in ALL of your bottom brackets.
  • 2 1
 $200? That's an expensive hammer. ;-)
  • 2 0
 Is it ISCG05 compatible? That is, does it hit the mounting plate of a chainguide mounted to the ISCG05 mounts?
  • 1 0
 I'm pretty sure I have enduro bearings pressed into my xt housings... that must be possible, right?
  • 1 0
 disagree with a lot of design choices on this but the anodizing looks really nice
  • 1 1
 Surprised no one said they have a bushing for a bb on their 14” rusted ship iron 3 speed mullet, and that’s all you need, anything more makes you a yuppie dentist
  • 1 0
 Everything was ok but the i saw the price and... nah, i'm still happy with my aliexpress BB for us$12
  • 1 0
 Someone said "I wish more people could experience the joy of snapping a bolt off in a Browning bushing" and here we are.
  • 1 0
 Colours don't match anything on any of my bikes. For that reason and that reason only, I'm out.
  • 1 0
 What we really need is a BB where the the bearings can be extracted WITHOUT removing the cups from the frame
  • 1 0
 No dedicated and very specific tool needed? Ease of bearing extraction? Won't sell.
  • 1 0
 Fantastic idea. Ridiculous price. I could make you a set of bb cups like this for £30
  • 1 0
 Lenny Quimby just had a 'gasm....
  • 2 3
 Or you could use the edge of a sharp punch & hammer to knock the bearings out & save removing the cups from the frame ‍♂️
  • 1 0
 These are a year out? Wow.
  • 1 0
 I miss cheap Shimano square tapers and RaceFace Turbine cranks.
  • 1 0
 ...and canti brakes? New Shimano BB's are almost the same price, but stronger, stiffer and lighter than their square tapers. The Japanese made ones last for years. What's not to like? Pair it with an Aeffect crank and call it a day.
  • 1 0
 So Phoquing simple it’s amazing that no one thought about it before!
  • 1 0
 Wow, That is a brilliant piece of tech. nice work!
  • 1 0
 Absolutley beautiful engineering and anodizing. Killing it!
  • 1 0
 It's a good idea.
  • 1 1
 Yea this is sick.
  • 1 2
 DAMN this is possibly the best bottom bracket I've seen released!
  • 1 1
 I came when I saw this.
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