leon-forfar

@danielfloyd: https://www.instagram.com/p/CpRJSMRuA27/ For reals though, why not put a dual crown fork on and KEEP the drivetrain/dropper. Literally no harm. This is an N+N for the price of N+1.

Yeah, the industry needs to stop slapping a DH fork and taking away gears/ dropper posts off their trail bike and calling it a DH bike. They are NOT the same. Waste of people's money. Just use the regular trail bike version in a park if you can't get a full blown DH bike as your N+1.

@succulentsausage: Cedric is terrible, even factoring in that English is his second language. Ric is bland, but at least what he says generally makes some kind of sense. When Cedric starts yelling "LOOK AT THE BIG ANDLEBAR" or whatever, I cringe and feel embarrassed for our sport. For someone with his level of success and involvement in mountain biking, he should be able to come up with something at least slightly insightful. Even Claudio had some good feedback occasionally in between his babbling.

Your comment wasn't deleted, it got put to the below threshold comments with all the other garbage.

@vhdh666: in Dennis Enerson’s podcast, he mentioned that anytime his bmx crew ride with Semenuk, he seems to land lines first go/ before the legitimate bmx pros. Not sure if you saw that US congress meeting where those Air Force people said that there are ufos and non human biological matter that they’ve been hiding, but yeah. They were talking about Semenuk.

@IsaacWislon82: I work in a bike shop and I've always considered my rim "straight/ fine" as long as it isn't rubbing the frame, much to the despise of everyone else who has to work with me haha!

Cushcore/ regular air pressure is only putting the amount of pressure you put in the tire on the rim. Most MTB rims are designed with probably 15-50PSI in mind. Procore uses 120PSI or something like that, and sits right on the rim, thus putting that amount of pressure on the rim before taking any impacts. 120psi is well outside of the normal pressure ranges they design mountain rims for...I would assume... as an arm chair non-engineer.

@muzzLe: There are obviously lots of moving factors/ variables with mountain bikes and riding them on trails, but on my dirt jump bike I can absolutely feel the difference in stiffness in the wheels via spoke tension. The difference between my wheels/ spokes having backed off a little bit (maybe my "little bit" is actually "a lot bit") versus right after tensioning them is night and day. Especially when doing 3 taps, turning while manualling, or just plain landing a bit sideways from whips. The wheels feel MUCH more responsive after tensioning the wheels, and way less noodly (under my 225lbs of lunch muscle). I'll admit to just doing a squeeze test with the spokes after noticing the wheels feeling flexy, and then tightening them back up equally around the wheel from there. Would this just be the case of the spokes losing too much tension or having unequal tension before I actually check and tighten them up? These wheels (which I got second hand 4-5 years ago now) are starting to show signs of the nipples pulling through the spoke holes/ starting to crack in places which sounds like what you mentioned above. I'm also low key hoping these rims fail so I can justify getting some totally unnecessary, but totally cool WR1 rims on the jump bike.

At least the SC frames are sorted enough to not have the trap door rattle and the seat stay hit the seat tube...

@The-Spirit-of-Jazz: I think his point was that at that price, simple things like the rear end not making contact with the front end should have been sorted out.