Inflation - we’re all feeling the pinch and it’s a topic that no one can escape, even in the freedom of the bicycle world. 5-digit mountain bike prices have quickly become commonplace and the question as to whether or not we’re seeing the bang for buck diminish is tough to answer. Either way, we’re all still lusting after new bikes but at some point, we have to decide what features are most important to us.
Mountain bikes are complex, human-powered machines. One of the first gestures that we often make is to pick up a bike to feel out its weight. That’s a topic that has been argued time and time again. Seb Stott believes you shouldn’t worry about it too much, but there’s no hiding it requires energy to get to the top of the hill, or at least to handle the bike.
Two major factors that should come into account are fit and effectiveness. Does the geometry match your body type and where you ride? You don’t want to look like a circus bear while riding your miniature bike around and if your trails are fairly moderate in terms of terrain, a slack, long-travel bike doesn’t make sense there either.
Suspension design and the amount of travel is another backbone of the bike’s intentions that can quickly overburden the effort needed to maximize the enjoyment out on the trails. If you spend the majority of your time in the air, a high-pivot might not be the most intuitive suspension platform to jump.
The bike will also need to be serviced and that’s not free either. You’ll have to set aside a budget for routine maintenance, even if you perform the labour yourself. Getting a hold of those parts isn’t always straightforward either. Proprietary components and access to local dealers is a worthwhile concern to have, especially if you leave off the beaten path.
When the time does come to say goodbye to your beloved ride, you’ll want to capitalize on your return. Choosing a mainstream brand might reduce that amount, since there could hundreds of others just like it to compete against. On the other hand, having an obscure brand might scare off a second-hand buyer.
On that note, the manufacturer's warranty is worth thinking about too. Is it just one year? What does “limited” lifetime really mean? Nowadays, brands like Specialized are even offering a transferable warranty to second-hand owners.
We’re also purchasing a good, so chances are, you aren’t going to purchase a bike that you hate to look at, performance aside. Similarly, I bet you gravitate towards a brand’s image that aligns with your values. Perhaps you’re not after the cheapest bike and care about where and who makes the frame. A brand’s image and how they perceive themselves in the mountain bike community can certainly influence your purchasing decisions.
Those engineers must really believe in that design to go that route, cause it cant be cheap.
However, Interior suspension, and cascade suspension can take care of all those shocks still
Replaced all the pivot hardware on a 2003 RM, couple items had to be subbed out, but easy enough.
Anything like hardware you can get or have made. You might need to explore some different options. but you'll get there.
Trek shocks are noted, but like I said, both Interior suspension, and Cascade suspension can get you sorted on pretty much all of it. Is their relaibility any worse than X2's?
Maverick suspension pieces is tough to find as branded Maverick, but I've found replacement parts while digging into RS and Manitou spares.
Idler wheels will be easy, again, you might need to be creative, but you'll get there.
Elastomers for odd ball suspension stuff can be daunting, but that stuff was hens teeth at the time it was manufactured.
If im honest, I've never liked the looks of the Knolly bikes, the recent protos with the straight top tube look way better, However, the bike is a blast to ride, feels like a BMX bike on the trails. Has changed my mind on the bike, I friggin love it!
Give the ugly ones a chance every now and then, you just might be surprised
I'd say for me it's probably a combo of aesthetics and brand ethos. 99.9% of us don't get paid to ride bikes and, despite what some of us may think, nobody else really gives a crap how fast we are.
My bike buying advice is to define some sensible parameters in terms of geo, travel, etc. and then go buy what makes your d!ck hard. You should never buy a bike you're not totally stoked about just because it checks some box on paper.
Good looking bike also makes you additionally stoked to go ride it, especially if between the rides it stands somewhere you can see it on daily basis.
Buying from the brand that gives back to community and respects its customers/employees is just a right thing to do, a part of a healthy money cycle.
Combining these two factors with a bike being relevant to my needs / riding style / local terrain makes purchase a no-brainer.
- GREAT component spec. Suspension, drivetrain, brakes. I'm happy to rock a budget wheelset
- Proper geometry/travel for my local trails. High desert foothills with lots of long, non-technical climbs and descents
- Reliable and highly-reviewed construction and suspension kinematics
- Available through a trusted LBS
- OMG have you seen that green? It's beautiful
Enjoy that bike, looks like a real winner. Norcos been on a tear for quite some time, making world class bikes built to be ridden.
The HP Aurum, Optic, Sight (tip of hat to the Transition Sentinel) , Range, Shore, and now Fluid. Winners
Zeb over 36, just curious why?
You dont like LBS's?
I see your solution was swapping to a Horst link, which was coincidentally my solution as well (SJ evo)
brave choice good sir!
Ive tried almost every sus design out there, and seem to fit well with Transitions, Norcos (Horst link) and Konas (Faux bars)
I just dont seem to get along with most dual link bikes (Santa Cruz, Ibis, Pivot) but can get sorted on Giants maestro
A buddy is on a SJ Evo, loves it,
over forked to 170mm, running a X2, he couldnt be happier on it.
Hes a ripper, but smooth like butter
- Proprietary crap
- press fit BBs
- cables routed through headsets.
Me too, I was very fortunate that I could buy the newer version of my old bike, with less travel and for about the same money that I spent five years ago. It’s been a win all around for me.
Also, this quote from the lede: “ the question as to whether or not we’re seeing the bang for buck diminish is tough to answer.”
I mean, is it really tough to answer? Doesn’t seem that way to me.
If that's not bang for the buck, I don't know what is...
Also add:
PB (or other) reviews & comments
Water bottle in front triangle
Frame Storage
1) Price - a lot of bike for less than $2500
2) Availability - they had them in stock at our LBS to try and fit, an XL for me and an M for my wife
3) Race proven geometry
4) Appreciate the craftsmanship of the aluminum frames that are still made in Spain
5) Familiarity of the Shimano components
the only way my bike price has five digits is if you tack on a leading zero.
Trailforks all over again...
Still, it is annoying to see so many industry press releases, buying guides, and questions about purchasing stuff. It does not seem the way journalism should work.
which is imo completely fine, because that way we can show em to go fk themselves with their moronic e-bikes.
The thing about the pedals is probably that a bike with spd is very hard to ride on flats and vice versa. A bar with a few degrees less than ideal upsweep is still fine for a car park test ride.
I've always thought the 'a la carte' options that brands like Propain or Rose offer was a great idea. OEM pricing, near-custom choices. I wonder why that never caught on with bigger brands like Trek, Giant or Specialized. The bigger your brand, the easier it is to stock many different options that will average out in demand.
@ak-77 : As this didn't seem to be an article targeted at beginners in particular, I expected it to be aimed at people who have a bike already. I've often calculated through some scenarios where I'd either got the complete bike or got just the frame, put my current parts on it and bought some new stuff I would wanted to upgrade or because my current parts wouldn't be compatible. Almost always it was cheaper to just get the frame or rolling chassis. And in case of Cotic of course, you can just leave everything behind that you don't want but I haven't discussed such an option with Cy how that would work out for me.
Are you new to the internet?
asking for ma friend
# support the brand/shop my family/friends work for.
The value goes both ways because it’s often possible to get a better deal.
Aesthetic goes a long way… if you hate the way a bike looks, you won’t be stoked to ride it no matter how good it actually is.
For me there's a lot of factors - price/quality, suspension design, geometry, sizing, wheel size, weight is a big factor as well - no, I am not buying a 15.5kg trail bike. You can tell me it's "just 2 seconds slower on a 10min climb", but when I go for a ride I don't go for a 10min climb and come back home. I do 40/50/60 or more miles, and weight is a huge factor there. $10,000 carbon fiber trail bike that weights over ~13.5kgs is ridiculous.
Same with the cable routing. I ride my bikes and I service them. I won't buy a bike with headset cable routing. Period.
But just to help out, what would motivate to buy buy buy? Cheaper costs than the current exorbitant ones.
2/ Aesthetics
3/ Suspension
4/ Frame Material