Descending Digging into bikes with flaws poses less of a challenge for our tech editors compared to a straightforward bike that does a bang-on job. I’d be doing the Reign injustice if I said it’s boring, but it is very “Giant”. There are no kooky kinematics or revolutionary construction methods. The build is also laced with weight-saving carbon parts and quality suspension at an acceptable price point.
I’d put the Reign up there for being one of the most composed and well-balanced enduro bikes I’ve ridden lately. It offers a ride that reacts quickly in tighter sections of trail and doesn’t wince when you open up the brakes. The Reign feels low, compact, and light on the trail which gives the rider a planted ride that still has plenty of get-up-and-go.
On one hand, it’s not a plow, nor is it nervous when you start to give it the beans. A 63.5-degree head angle lets you attack steeper tracks. If needed, you can adapt the geometry for a quicker response in flatter territory by bumping the flip-chip down a notch.
160mm is a healthy amount of rear wheel travel for erasing those “Oh sh1t!” moments, without sapping your energy in lumpy, low speed trails either. The air shock provides solid support and bottom-out control, but given more time, I’d be curious to play with a DHX2 coil option to seek out a little more forgiveness at the top of the travel. It’s interesting to see most of Giant’s
enduro racers have chosen a coil, and the top-level Pro 0 comes equipped with one.
If I were to scrutinize the Reign further, I’d say that the suspension could be more active under braking as there’s some feedback through the rear end of the bike - part of that comes from the chain slap or feedback, even though there seems to be plenty of rubber padding the stays.
Giant claims that the rear triangle on the 2023 Reign is 39% stiffer than its predecessor. I never had a chance to ride the previous version, but compared to the fleet of enduro bikes I’ve been riding over the last year, the new Reign is on the softer side. I wouldn’t call the frame noodley, but there is a generous amount of flex through the middle of the bike when you load the bike up in turns or bounce through off-camber sections.
That’s not the end of the world, though; I’d just prefer to let the wheels handle that task. Why? Well, wheels with some more lateral compliance can also offer better tracking and less deflection on off-camber sections of trail.
I can see the benefits of racing a frame for enduro stages that is less jarring and has
some level of compliance factored in (I loved the Santa Cruz Megatower, but the frame gave off a ton of vibrations
) - it’s simply less taxing to hold onto for extended descents. For seriously large jumps and bike park riding, stiffness can bring control though, so that can be a personal preference.
Durability-wise though, all the pivots remained snug, no wheels were harmed, and the shock never missed a beat.
When I loosened the pivots to place the flip-chip in the high setting to run a 27.5” rear wheel, the angles felt slacker and lower than the 29er in the lowest mode. These numbers are supposed to be identical, and a quick check with my phone didn't show any massive discrepencies, but on the trail the difference was noticeable. I’d frequently stuff the pedals or skid plate into the ground and had a perceived feeling of riding over the back of the bike further.
An interesting experiment would be to move up to a size large frame and run the MX wheel setup to see if the longer wheelbase would reduce rider weight shifts, ultimately, riding higher in the travel.
In the end, I settled on the slack setting for most days riding around Squamish but would resort to the middle flip-chip If I were racing where I’d want pedal at any given moment.
I would expect that to be the equipment on a bike at half this price. And a TranzX dropper? Seriously?!
Anyway, 4500E for a frame?!.. well ...(
Given that clamping force varies wildly for the same torque based on what (if any) lubricant is used, what bolt materials are used, whether washers are used etc, none of which are controlled for on mtb, two riders with the same product but cared for differently could have clamping forces so low that the the product slips or so high that the product fails, at the same torque reading.
Further to that, many mtb torque ratings are literally made up by whoever is printing the graphics on the product. Some carbon bar manufacturer or another (Enve I think, but I genuinely don't remember) used to print "6nm max" on the bar... They didnt even know what was being clamped to it. A stem using m4 bolts is going to produce a wildly higher clamping force at 6nm than some cheap ass stem using m6 bolts. And thats before we even consider clamp design, thread pitch, material, quality or lubricant.
Mtb torque ratings are often total nonsense.
....How many more wishes do we get?
Don’t listen to this person, use the recommended torque specs given to you by your frame / part manufacturer. Follow their guidelines (loctite/grease in areas required)
Torque specs are (mainly) determined by the fastener size, material and thread pitch.
When bar manufacturers state “6nm max” or whatever , that’s what they mean. If the clamp spec your looking to put on is 8nm than go to 6nm.
So do not ignore the printed torque value, just accept that they are a decent guide.
There is a depressing amount of smoke and mirrors in the mtb industry, and I have literally sat in design offices and listened to graphic designers discussing what torque specs to write on a product based on nothing more than spec numbers they have seen etched onto competitors products. This isn't aerospace, this is essentially the wild west... Printing torque specs on the product being clamped rather than the clamp itself is simply the most glaring example of the pinch of salt mtb torque suggestions should be taken with.
I don’t understand what your trying to get at with the smoke and mirrors comment. The entire automotive industry runs on torque specs such as these. I’m glad the information is available if for nothing but to be a guide to how tight something should be whether you use a torque wrench or not
Jokes aside a Reeb is the only bike I've test ridden in recent years, mostly because they were offering free demos at a small mtb festival I attended. Thing is, I don't want to pay hundreds to demo bikes I might not be interested in at all.
Think of it as an experience rather than a chore. Like going to the movies, or a concert, both of which are getting up there in cost nowadays
decided while in the shop to demo it instead......I couldnt for the life of me figure out how to climb on that damn bike. like small movements forward or back led to either front wheel lift, or no traction at all. Super stuck to the ground on the way down, like faster than I've ever been, but be damned if I could get any fun out of it, no pop, no life, just flat and fast.
Test rode a Sentinel, smiles for days......
Stoked that you know, but I think for some theres a lot of variance out there to try out different things.
Sometimes we think we know what we want, and then something opens our eyes to different possibilities
On top of that, they're awesome bikes supported with great customer service
Now, on the Reeb, I took a complete gamble, based on my experience over the last several years and really knowing what I wanted from a bike now. The SST has not disappointed. The susp looks simple, but it has something going on as you have to compress it with a little force to bolt up the shock. Amazing bike and now the LT sits.
However I’ve found that most dual link (dw-link, SC, etc) just don’t suit my riding style.
It was a full day demo with that SC, and I’m pretty comfortable with bike setup, so I think it just didn’t suit my riding style (or lack there of). Couple that with a bike that’s going to be that finicky, and it wasn’t for me.
The REEB SST is high on my list of bikes, I’ll need to take a trip South to try one out I expect.
Curious about compressing the suspension to be able to bolt up the shock, like the flex stay is adding resistance to the static system?
But yeah, I talked to Reeb briefly about the design, while installing the shock, mainly to make sure that was normal. I did not get into details, but it works!
Yep! Also, I paid less for my smaller brand bike with carbon frame, carbon wheels and Shimano XT. The deals are out there, you don’t have to pay $7k for GX.
The exception is Yeti, which has sought out even cheaper labor in Vietnam.
I think it's really sad that these brands take such pride in where they were "designed and engineered" but seem almost ashamed of where they were built. When you go to Taichung, it is a bustling conglomerate of hundreds of small factories churning out different kinds of frames and bits, but you won't see any branding outside any of these facilities, because they are merely contracted to churn out a certain number of frames and then move on to the next brand that contracts. One moment a factory is making Raaw Madonnas, the next week they'll be making Trek Marlins. A carbon frame plant could be making Revel Rangers one week and then this very Giant Reign the next. (and yes, I checked each of those bikes is made in Taichung)
If you're ever curious to dig into this more, www.importyeti.com is a great resource to find out who supplies your favorite brand. If you're really on it, you can catch when shipments of new bikes are on the water and try to anticipate launch events.
If you actually have a frame warranty they have your back, if you are a dummy and drop your bike off a cliff or or have it fall off your vehicle, that's not considered a warranty issue, you just messed up and should have taken better care of your stuff.
Stoked on the new Reign to come out, I can't wait to get my hands on one!
Actually-almost every Reign bought here the last few years has broken.
Local shop kid got stress cracks around the headtube of a Trance X, Giant did the composite care replacement, but also told the rider their frames don’t do that either.
Giant USED to set the gold standard for warranty service, but not anymore.
If their bikes seem light compared to other stuff in the same travel bracket, they are. And they break as a result.
Unfortunately there are shops out there that do not have the same customer service level I see, which can put a sour taste in anyone’s mouth about any brand of bike.
Unfortunately the standard a lot of shops operate at is below the expectations of a customer.
(The obvious solution is to run Shimano cranks but I have two old cranksets that don't fit - I think they need boost spindle spacing - and that's annoyed me enough to not buy new ones).
we've changed to a Shimano bb from a FSA but this didn't help either.
My three reign frames and Anthem and XTC were/aren't creaking through.
Bikes like the Stumpy Evo or Sentinel are heavier for a reason. On a trail bike meant for hard use I’ll take a little more weight.
And when Giant denied my warranty claim I went with a Ripmo AF, which is better in every way except the pound or so of frame weight I gained.
TRANCE ADVANCED PRO 29 FRAME
www.giant-bicycles.com/us/trance-advanced-pro-29-frame
TRANCE X ADVANCED PRO 29 FRAME
www.giant-bicycles.com/us/trance-x-advanced-pro-29-frame
ANTHEM ADVANCED PRO 29 FRAME
www.giant-bicycles.com/us/anthem-advanced-pro-29-frame-2023
"There isn’t much that Giant has left off the table here for the $7,999 price tag of the Reign Advanced Pro 1"
But the links rotate differently.
So so you felt the need to bring a ruler and make 1.25mm adjustments based on ride location... but the lack of damper adjustments is actually a good thing?
So "set & forget" only applies to clickers (easy to change quickly) and not pressure (needs a shock pump and way more time)?
I'm just pointing out there is no "seems expensive for an (insert brand)" because they were all manufactured for about the same price. Hell, Yeti is in Vietnam now, probably to take advantage of the fact that Vietnamese wages haven't risen as much as Taiwanese ones in the last decade. But you don't hear anyone saying "seems expensive for a Yeti" because we perceive that brand to be worthy when really they are probably made even cheaper than Giant frames.
www.giant-bicycles.com/de/giant-garantie
(Why there are two "Chainring" specs (teeth count and chainline) in the "Crankarms" section is weird already.)
These words alone from their website are enough…
The above warranty, or any implied warranty, does not cover:
Bicycles serviced by other than an Authorized Giant Dealer.
Modifications from the original condition.
Yikes.
Yeah rock strikes to the downtube are one of the most common ways to crack a carbon front triangle, no matter the brand. I did the same on a v1 carbon sentinel, rock strike crack under the downtube protector.
What we really need is thicker downtube protection and/or stronger carbon downtubes. It would be nice if brands would take the lead on this. Until they do, I've been adding rubber mastic tape on top of my downtube protector (ripmo) for an additional layer of insurance. And friends use Rockguardz carbon protectors underneath the stock protection on their stumpy evos.
Catefory 4 includes all bikes and components that can be used in conditions described under category 1, 2 and 3 as well as in very rough and partially blocked terrain with steeper sections and higher speeds. Regular, moderate jumps pose no problem for experienced riders when using these bikes. Extended and regular use in bike parks and then tackling "North Shore" sections should be avoided. Due to increased stresses, these bikes should be checked for damage after every ride. Full suspension bikes with mid-level travel are typical in this category.
Ok so a little bit of nuance but I'm still not sure what this means.
Lesson: If you crash a Propain and break it, do not be truthful with their customer service department.
It had save my bike a few times for a warranty visit 100%. It is crazy to me only a few brands made a carbon down tube protector stock in their enduro bikes,it is very cheap compared to a frame replace an it looks much better than rubber one´s.
for sure. the "all mountain" segment can be a tricky middle ground. we want our 150r/160f bikes to descend well but also be light and climb well. and then we see carbon frames cracking (ahem stumpy evo) when a brand goes too light on the carbon layup for the category. Brands aren't taking as many chances with the Enduro bikes though, as they shouldn't.
If you’re inside 2 years they’ll cover one frame. Then you’ll break another one and they’ll deny the warranty claim.
The Reign frame weighs a pound or so less than a Sentinel or Stumpy Evo, and the downtube can’t handle impacts, headtube and bottom bracket junctions aren’t strong enough.
In Laramie (which is a small town) I’ve seen something 6 frames fail. They just aren’t sturdy enough.
Next time, I'll remove vowels like the canyon CLLCTV
Adequately because you're in the average rider size/style that it was tuned for. The Elite model doesn't change anything except allowing external adjustment of the high-speed circuits away from that middle/average setting. So of course Perf was adequate compared to Perf-Elite, it's literally the same thing if you leave the HS clickers in the middle.
and maybe this carbon Reign is too - Point was this category of bikes should have more travel and
we should always have the option of a dual crown.
I could be wrong but is it Price Point versus power? Shimano claims that all their 4 pots have the same power.
Maybe it’s cheaper to assemble the bikes because of this, or they got a deal? I wish more bikes came with Rockshox suspension and Shimano group…
My guess is, they either couldn't get ahold of enough parts to build them all and compromised, or for some reason couldn't negotiate a better price on Shimano drivetrain or Sram brakes to mixed them.
Either way, not a huge fan of the frequent bleed intervals I've needed on every DOT fluid brake, and the chemical burns I have received doing those bleeds have also been quite unwelcome.
On the other hand, I have no problem with the modulation I had on mineral oil brakes either (Magura and XTR).
Codes are very easy to bleed though. Far less work on than the XTR I have, and less messy.
I think SLX is the ideal selection because below that you lose the toolless reach adjust, but above it you only gain the basically useless free stroke adjustment. And it costs less than Code R.
Spec chart says 220mm.
pretty cool bike.
IMO - enduro, super, freeride all are same thing/class..just additional categories that industry creates/thinks they need to sell more bikes..a 180mm bike does everything/anything a 160mm bike does just as well without any limitations.
not travel or dual crown compatibility.