e*thirteen Releases New TRS+ 9-46 Tooth Cassette

 Accidently downvoted. Exactly, my question.

 Weight difference? 339g vs 303g

 The large cog carrier is slightly more refined and lighter on the TRSr cassette.

 Or what's the difference between this and the TRS+ cassette that they have been selling for $307? I think I may have been running this "new" cassette for two years already.

 $250 for a cassette???

Yes Yes I know it is probably an arm and leg (and half a testicle / ovary) less than and Eagle cassette but blood hell I wouldn't ride if I had one of them on my bike getting covered in mud and sh!t.

Give me 11-42 10speed Sunrace for £50 anyday.

 Everything just leads back to Shimano if youre on a budget.

 @cliffdog: except $100 less for the one coming out sounds purdy good.

 + u can use 11 speed parts u already have.

 @jrocksdh: YOU, NOT U.

 @therealtylerdurden: I hate Mondays too, although the beach helped today. Good luck.

 Plus a shorter chain length. So quieter and less chainslap

 @BenPea: Lol thanks mate. Banger comment.

 Sass out the ass

 @xcal69er: One thing I am aware of is gearing. As a true old Clydesdale with bad knees (lots of us out there BTW). I am already running a 26T oval chainring. Walking is faster but riding is more fun when in the 26x50 XX1. On long fast DH's when it flattens out I may drop into the 26x10. I doubt the 26x9 is going to enhance my day as much as that 26x50. If I could climb around here with a 32 I would be ecstatic. But it's simply not gonna happen.

 @chasejj: yup - gearing options are an individual choice. Do whatever works for you.

 @chasejj: 26 x 50! What is this, an eBike?

 @Loche: I wish it was a Husqvarna gas powered bike.

 @Loche: nope, it is what happens when are a clyde and get older. Unfortunately, we can't stay young forever.

Signed: A 40 something clyde.

 @carym: what's the term for the opposite of a Clydesdale? 60kg and I need that gear too...

 @BenPea: Sparkle Pony? :-D

 @chasejj: I strongly support your 26x solution. I ride 26x42 here in British Columbia and it saves my knees and everything else. I have rarely found the need to pedal faster downhill, but always thank heavens I have the 26 on the climbs. Way to go, old man!

 Quit saying that - someone in marketing will lose their job and not be able to support their family if the truth is revealed!!!!

 you're just not riding fast enough!!!

 Range is range, regardless of which side of the cassette it is on. You adjust with chainring, so if you were riding this you'd prob run a 32t chainring, whereas on eagle you would run a 34t and have a similar high/low end. More range = better.

 The "enormous gear growth percentage" means you could get a smaller front chainring, make use of the 9t, plus have an easier climbing gear. That is the point of it and why there are comparisons to eagle.

If you don't feel you need an easier climbing gear, in addition to hardly ever using your 11t, then you would indeed be wasting your money on this. Same with Eagle.

In my case I like to run a 30t up front and find myself in the 9t more than I expected.

 If you're not using it on the road you need to stop being lazy

 I must live somewhere steep. I spend time on both sides of the casette and spin out my 11s constantly. I wanted one of these cassettes but they were way too expensive for me to justify it.

 I am interested because my pivot points are based around a 30t chainring, so that 9 tooth will have a similar top speed to my 11t rear and 36t front. For an enduro rig that comes with 30t front and 46t rear I need more top, I already have a snail gear

 @silkyrhino: i have never been in the 9, but I expect on some road trip some day, I will use it... not on my local trails/transitions though. that said, I'm stoked on 9-44 10 speed cassette I have from them - works great.

 As others have said, adjust your chainring to compensate. I've downsized my cranks to 170 mm and my ring to a tiny 28T with the TRSr cassette and I'm loving it. The low gear is as low as on a triple crank set-up and the high gear is slightly higher than on my old 2x10. It's really quite wonderful.

 I hear ya. I can't for the life of me figure out why this cassette range is so adamant on touting a 9t + 10t. Really necessary? Seems like a gimmick.

 @chrisingrassia: it is a 10% jump, and I suppose it does allow people to size down their chainring by 2 if they wanted. anyway, I think any cassette offering over 450% in range seems plenty for most places, but great to have options.

 @powderturns: but a 9t AND a 10t? Seems silly. One or the other.

 @chrisingrassia: think the jump from 11 to 9 would be too big... it's not about the teeth, but the % change that matters I think.

 @onemind123: I nearly laughed out loud at the thought of supporting a family with a bike industry job.

 @silkyrhino: Exactly! I went from xx1 to this and really like it. I no longer drop to a 28 tooth when riding BC. On rodes I use the 9 tooth. Plus the gears seem more natural to my cadence.

 I will frequently spin out using a 36 front 11 rear racing. This is what e13 set out to remedy. The e13 cassette is great, I can run a 32 or 34 and not spin out, but still save legs on long transfers, something once only achievable with a dual ring setup. Shimano needs to step it up and at least offer a 10 t already, makes a huge difference from 11. A sram cassette helps with that 10 t, but the 11 speed offerings only go up to 42 rear, which is ok, but not quite enough to help tired legs on those grueling steep transfer climbs on race day. In most trail riding scenarios an 11-42 shimano cassette is all you need though.

 The 9T is for high speeds in the park. I use it on my Slayer at Silver Star all the time. Then when I take the bike elsewhere to a supposedly "DH trail" (trail with a lot of climbing in between the downs) I can keep the front at a 32T oval and climb all. Don't have to go 36T up front not to spin out in the park then suffer on the climbs elsewhere.
Reality is they could price it at $15 dollars and MTB's would still complain it should be only $5. Lol

 Says your local crack dealer.

 @Boardlife69: I like to refer to him as LBS, but since he provides mostly bad deals I get my crack from slikroadcomponents24.de.

 yeah...i did the same but with the 47/18 sprockets from OneUp Components...

 Box components and sun race also make 11-46 cassette with better gear ratios than shimano for anyone looking

 i like this, thanks!

 What I really want (what I really really want) is for SRAM to come out with a cheaper version of the EX1 cassette or someone else to make one, with a Shimano style alloy carrier instead the 'hand forged from a solid block mightiest steel by Odin Allfather' get up SRAM have. 8 gears, wide spread, indestructable chain, it would be perfect if the cassette wasn't $500.

 @chize: 11-46 sunrace worked great for me. I was concerned about shift quality vs Shimano, but I have no complaints. I jumped to a bigger chainring and tried the new 11-50t Sunrace. With an aftermarket cage to accommodate for the range, I'm extremely satisfied and the best part is it's cheap as @#$%! $100 cassette, $40 or so for the cage, and Shimano shifter/der feel.

 @Ron-C: did you get the one up cage? does anyone else make one? nice to hear positive review of the sunrace stuff - hard to beat from a value perspective.

 @Ron-C: good to hear! I've got the sunrace 10 speed 42-11 on my xc bike which works great and I've been thinking about going 1x on my trail bike too but would want the extra range of a 46-11

 @chize: Sunrace get my 10 speed vote.

 @Fix-the-Spade: so tell me what you want what you really really want...oh I thought we were singing Spice Girls

 That's a step closer, and may work wonderfully for you, but you're still a ways off from the cassettes in the %500 range.

 I thought the pins creaked on my X1. Turns out I needed to thoroughly clean the threads, add grease and torque the cassette down properly.

 @pablobell: Did that - to no avail.

 its pretty heavy tho

 I ran the 10sp cassette and it was awesome and only $90cnd.

 @stinkball: Ran it myself on my last bike; my wife's still using it on hers. Hasn't crapped out yet. When it does, I'll probably just upgrade her bike to 11sp XT or SLX, since that's pretty darn affordable now. But before Shimano's 11sp offerings, that Sunrace cassette was a killer deal to go budget 1x10.

 I guess because Sunrace are not paying for advertising. Bang for buck / pound / euro they are the go.

 If you're in that 9 or 10t cog it's typically a low-torque situation, like going down a hill where you're almost spun out and just trying to get that little bit of extra speed to make it to the finish line. You're never in the 9 or 10 in a high-torque situation, like climbing a hill, so any effect on efficiency or chain wear is very small. Even moreso since you're rarely in that smallest cog.

 I had the original TRSr cassette......wore it out in 3 months. I am hard on drive train components but I though that was a bit too quick. Should also note that the 9 speed cog can cause spacing issues on some bikes. On my Evil Wreckoning the chain was too close to the chain stay.

 I was running a 2x system for years, but on the downhills it might as well have been a 1x because it would drop to the small ring as soon as I hit any sort of bump. I couldn't be happier having switched to a narrow-wide up front. Maybe a clutch would have helped? But I don't miss 2x at all. "Compromise" exists everywhere.

 The 1x11 system was made to remove a massive compromise, that was having a big overcomplicated gear range in favour of not having your chain on half the time. If you're a gentle rider then no worries, but bikes are so capable now having a secure chain is necessary. 500% range on Eagle should be much more than enough for most (or better yet the 511% here), and I find even the 420% range is often more than I need.

 I get you. If I had knee problems I would also run 2x.

 @bmck: Exactly the reason I'm looking to "upgrade" to a 1x .. can't stand losing my chain 2 seconds into a downhill "flow" trail. I love the range my 2x has but need my chain to stay on! Soon enough... just a few more paychecks....

 @laxguy: have you tried a c-guide? I run a 2x with one and cannot recall the last time I dropped a chain.

 @laxguy: Odd. I never drop chains. Well I won't say never but its extremely rare using an XTR clutch RD. And its not because I'm not hitting the gnarly hard ! On the 1-2 occasions I have dropped a chain the FD acts like a chain guide anyway and one half revolution and the chain is back on the big ring. Not sure why others seem to suffer so badly from this.

Nothing wrong with my knees FartyMarty - just riding steep tech and conversely don't want to spin out on 30mph fire roads.

 @preston67: I'm not positive what a "clutch" does in this instance but I'm going to assume I don't have one because I'm dropping chain constantly. Yes sometimes half a crank is all that is needed to get it back on, more often than not that results in the chain coming off completely..

 @preston67: Fair enough. I am sure your hills are a little bigger than the wee bumps we have in south east England.

It's good in a way Shimano still have 2x as it gives options.

 What bike do you have. That seems odd. I have a 11-42 10speed sunrace on my 16 tracer. Stock b screw on a slx and it shifts fine. Also 32 tooth blackspire on the front

 which slx derailleur? 675 or 7000? the newer shimano derailleurs all have offset pivots, so you can keep the b screw out further and get better wrap

 @xeren: any idea where that would be stamped on the deralleur? It's SlX and about 4 months old.

 @tigerteeuwen: they look different. Look up pictures on-line to figure out which you have

 @tigerteeuwen: as @chize said, they look pretty different:

www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-slx-m675-shadow-10-speed-rear-mech/rp-prod83164

www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-slx-m7000-11-speed-rear-derailleur/rp-prod148563

the most obvious difference is "SLX" printed on the clutch cap vs further up on the derailleur body

 @xeren: yeah it's definitely the m675, thanks for posting the links. so basically the issue is inherint to the deralleur design?

Good to know, sucks that i just bought the deralleur not too long ago and have issues with it though.

 @tigerteeuwen: yeah, the m675 was only really designed for 36 tooth cassettes. if you look at the m675 from the back side, you can see that the upper jockey wheel is right on top of the pivot, so when the cage pivots, it doesn't really move, requiring you to make up for that with more b-screw. but on newer (especially 11 speed) shimano derailleurs, the upper jockey wheel is offset from the pivot point, so as the cage pivots, the jockey wheel moves up on its own

anyway, i'm assuming this means you're using a 1x10 setup, right? you have 2 good options. if your m675 is a mid-cage (GS, not SGS) design, you can get a 1up RAD cage, for ~$35, which basically converts the derailleur into the newer offset pivot design. if you have a long cage version, you need the RADr cage, which is $55, but at that price, you're better off with a new derailleur

www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/rad-cages/products/r-a-d-cage

other option is you can just sell your derailleur and get a deore RD-M6000-GS (not SGS) derailleur, which also has an offset pivot. (i realized only the SLX m7000 11 speed derailleur uses the offset pivot, not the 10 speed m7000, unfortunately)

the m6000 derailleurs JUST came out, so they may be hard to find and only at full MSRP, but in a month or so, they should be discounted ~35% like all shimano products

 @xeren: thanks for all your help, seriously answers a ton of questions. I showed your post to my local bike shop and it was not something they totally realised until reading it as well.

 @tigerteeuwen: you can use an 11 speed derailleur with your existing 10 speed shifter and cassette without problems

 @tigerteeuwen: no problem, glad it helped!

 Well yeah, thanks for mentioning. With wear parts in this price range, it indeed makes it easier to invest in something like Pinion or Effi and be done with it.

 I have kinda gone off them a little. It's not the gripshift that would bug me, its the fact you can't change under heavy load. I am sure this is something the likes of Pinion / Effigear are working on.

 They still have the 9-42 10spd version.

 @zutroy: thanks, ill check them out.

 I'm still around. chill

 The creak was fixed awhile back with an updated cassette. I ride mine hard and it has given me zero issues. The creak might be between your ears.

 'Facts are living turned inside out. Facts are getting the best of them.'--I can't believe this comment because it hasn't been deleted. After about an hour or so it may go under threshold in its current position or to the 'below threshold threads are hidden' section at bottom of page. Testing 1,2,3,4....

 LOL "thoroughly researched through multiple accounts of people I know"
You should submit your findings to the Lancet.

 Mine doesn't creak.

 @gtill9000: Haha, yeah. The plural of anecdotes is not data.

 @jflb: *citation needed*

 I have no creaks with the latest version, you can add that to your data set.

 I'm not sure about the creak, but mine had a ticking noise to it after I had rinsed off some dirt. I took the whole thing apart and put the park tool p-1000 liberally on all the interfaces. I think what was making the noise was the hook interface on the backside of the cassette where the two engage. I noticed it was worn to bare metal (anodizing rubbed off) and so I put as much as I could there and it's completely silent after two rides (25miles). I'm really not a fan of this two piece design. It's a pain to get off of the bike (two chain whips, really?) and only makes for more areas for issues to come up. Is it a patent thing with SRAM or shimano? I rarely use the 9 but i imagine you would if you ran fire roads a lot or highspeed sections. But overall it does work. If I don't have to take it off for a while, I'd be really stoked on it and I hope that's the case.

 @ceecee: Still waiting...

 I have the older TRSR and the mating pieces that connect the aluminum and steel cogs must be greased. On my cassette, it will creak after 4-5 rides and instead of disassembling the cassette to grease it, I drop a couple drops of chain lube instead there and the creak goes away for another 4-5 rides. Not a huge deal since I oil and clean the chain/derailleur every ride anyways.

 @jflb mine doesn't creak

 Mine doesn't creak either. I love mine.

 Mine doesn't creak.

 So much for censorship here. Reports are mixed. This is a cool product for racers and/or burning money. I'm sticking with 11-42t and hoping for someone to make zero offset d.m. chainrings, as aluminum ones wear too quickly. Jealous of your address!

 @Seven02guy:
I gotta be honest. Most people think their bike works great because they're oblivious to how well it should work.
And they never hear creaks or ticks or don't even notice when their bike is basically falling apart.
If you guys have had good luck with your cassettes that's awesome.

 @TerrapinBen: And still waiting. Looks like Dylanmurray69420 of the broken V10 article a couple days ago got suspended or banned, though his monotonously striking content is still up. Thanks for noticing! [And to the radically bored historians of the future, my comment below doesn't make enough sense, as it forgot to specify STEEL zero offset d.m. rings.]

 I don't notice any difference from any of the other cogs.

 Anything long cage. SRAM or Shimano.

 Mine works perfect! I originally worried that it might skip or rub on the chain stay but it's been flawless. Now I'm ordering another one for my 29er.

 I'm sure your knees love you for that.

 @P3N54: I've never had knee problems, I've never stopped riding so they must be used to it.

 This, and should be noted that other than the largest cog, the XX1 cassette longevity is outstanding (all steel other than that large cog). Most people I've seen getting rid of their "worn out" xx1 cassettes was because the largest was toast.

 @bsavery: Yes on that single alloy cog. My mate wore his out, and gave it to me! Just put that 44t replacement in there and the cassette is back in business.

 Wolftooth has a 46T replacement available also if you do want more range. I can't remember if I went with the 44 or 46 when I replaced mine a year and a half ago. It's still going to, and shifts great, just needed some b-tension adjustment. I swap between wheels with an original 10-42 still on, and the 10-46(44?), and it shifts well on both with out needing to change the adjustment. It's adjusted for the 46(44?).

 I would never buy a used cassette for $100, especially an XX1. Buying a used cassette is a surefire way to not have the correct amount of wear on your chain and cause massive slipping/skipping, which is not something you want when you're chugging away up a hill in your granny.

 @seraph: Yeah that cheap sounds like a bad idea. See my previous comment about the granny replacement on them though. They work great.

 Wow, 20 x 41 ??? 20 x 34 already feels spinny to me...

 No, it just came out.

 The more expensive TRS Race cassette came out a while ago, but until now the TRS+ was 9-44t spread.

 @SpeedMountain: Got it, didn't realize, the names were too similar.