Fix It Sticks Replaceable - Review
There's nothing worse than going to fix a mechanical out on the trail, only to find out that none of the bits on your fancy multi-tool are long enough to reach the bolt head, or that even if the tool does reach you can't get enough leverage for it to be useful. That's where Fix It Sticks come in. The creation of Brian Davis, a cyclist who wanted to create a shop quality tool that could be easily brought on a ride, Fix it Sticks consist of two steel 'sticks' that can be carried side by side in a pack, and then joined together to form a T-handled tool.
The Replaceable version comes with a total of 8 interchangeable 1/4” bits that are held in place by a strong neodymium magnet, allowing riders to set the tool up with the bit configuration of their choice. There's also an aluminum version available that uses non-removable bits for those who want just the essentials at a lighter weight. Included bits: 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm Hex, Torx 25, Phillips #2. Max torgue: 54 Nm. Weight: 132 grams (includes all bits). MSRP: $35.99 USD. www.fixitsticks.com
The tool comes apart for easy storage and carrying.
Once assembled, the T-handle design provides plenty of leverage to loosen stubborn bolts.
Pinkbike's Take:
 | The design of the Fix It Sticks is so elegantly simple that it's a wonder they've only been available for a couple of years. Putting the two steel sticks together takes only a second or two longer than flipping open a traditional multi-tool, with the advantage being that once assembled the Fix It Sticks feel very similar to the trusty three-way hex wrench that's a mainstay in the arsenal of nearly every bike mechanic. The amount of leverage available is another plus. and snugging up stem bolts, checking suspension pivot hardware, or even removing and installing pedals didn't pose any problems. The selection of bits is wide enough to take care of most jobs, although it would be nice to see the addition of an 8mm bit for dealing with pedals and crank arms. Luckily, the fact that the Fix It Sticks uses standard 1/4" bits makes it easy to supplement the provided bit options by visiting nearly any hardware store. The solid construction and the lack of any moving parts means this is a tool that should last for years rather than months, which is all the more reason to toss one into your pack. - Mike Kazimer |
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Member since Feb 1, 2009
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I've never come across a 8mm hex bit for a 1/4" hex tool. For 1/4" square yes, but not for 1/4" hex. Probably because if it'd ever damage during use, it would damage inside the tool and you can't get it out anymore. Plus, they may not like to apply it to this concept because you can't stick the 8mm key into the middle of the other stick. Not because that is such a major issue, but because these days people post reviews on the internet and keep digging for something silly just to tick that "negatives/downside/minus" box at the end of their review and take a star off for that. I think if you really need 8mm, you may just want to bring a separate hex tool for that. My cranks (Octalink) take a 10mm hex wrench so I'd have to bring that anyway. I don't expect they'll ever make a 10mm hex bit for a 1/4" hex tool
I use a torque wrench at home, but not on the trail. Just remember that most components don't need more than 6Nm (older Cannondale Lefty forks need 9Nm to attach the brakes to their slottet IS mounts but this doesn't always jive with the requirements of the supplied brakes) and most often you're in the 4Nm range. This is not much. Even 6Nm is something you can comfortably achieve with a screwdriver shape handle, so without an extra arm for leverage. 1Nm is like adjusting tiny dials on your brake lever or rear shock, fingertip stuff. So keep this in mind when making adjustments out on the trail. Again, a torque wrench definitely makes sense for setting up your clean gear in a clean workshop, fresh grease or threadlock on the bolts and all. But when you've got to fix stuff that you already got mucky, you won't get that amazingly accurate even when you've got the numbers (torque settings on your tool) right. Just stay in that sensible range by feel and maybe do an extra check if you're on a longer ride. Then back home, clean it, apply grease or threadlock and tighten to spec with the torque tool. I wouldn't take the torque tool to the trail.
The great thing about exploring the wilderness on mountain bikes is that you can go further in a shorter time than when you're simply hiking. But if your drivetrain breaks down, suddenly you can be on a 'too long' hike with a 25-30lb anchor to carry out and maybe not enough water. Just typing that statement makes me want to buy a spare derailleur hanger next payday!
I've used the old Alien by Topeak that I bought in the mid to late 90's until I lost one half of it early this season. It was never perfect, but it had allens up to 8mm, screwdrivers, locking knife blade, chain tool, and tire levers all in a really compact pouch. I recently bought a Park I beam tool (the lower price model with the chain breaker) and while it's not the swiss army knife that the old Alien was, it is much lighter and I can just carry it in my front shorts pocket. That makes it much easier to use for adjusting stuff without having to take my pack off. Like when you're riding with a new seat or brake levers that need to be dialed in after you're out on the trail.
These fix-it-sticks look like they would fit in the shorts pocket even better. This would make it a great choice when riding with a friend on their first ride and you are constantly adjusting the seat for them or fixing brake rub, etc. I think these would work great with a small chain tool and an 8mm hex option. Even better would be to have one end be a decent strength magnet to help you find dropped hex bits in the grass or mud (this is bound to happen to most riders once or twice).
@bigbear: Thanks, never seen one of those before! Still, it is not for me I guess. Sometimes when I thread in a big screw by hand with a PZ3 bit (so this is in wood, not in my bike), I already get that the bit sometimes gets stuck in the driver. I'm pretty sure the same could happen with the amount of torque I would apply to my crank bolt.
I just noticed that I misplaced my initial post. It was supposed to be in the thread below where Mike Kazimer also responded. Sorry for that.
Also if you took the ends out - you could fit this in an old Nuun container or something like that. Pretty cool - what is a nice chain tool to compliment?
Make the Fix It Sticks idea better by using high-quality tool steel, no removable bits, and 3+ sticks to have more tool heads with zero bits to lose! Get fancy and incorporate spring-loaded ball bearing detents to help the sticks lock together to form the T-handles. This is a great idea that just needs a bit more refinement
Rabble, rabble rabble rabble.
Now, you may argue that they are easier to strip, and they totally can be. But they are very dependent upon perpendicular force and a quality tool to install and remove.
German auto makers LOVE the Torx. Even when its not necessary. But think of it as a redesigned, lower spline count 12pt bolt.
www.topeak.com/products/Mini-Tools/hexus2
The benefit is having the leverage from this shape of tool, multiple sizes of bits.Damage your very expensive park tool (park tools are excellent quality) and you have to buy a new tool.
Im talking about home work shop tools .Bike shop tools are another story.