Climbing Usually when a bike comes in with a flip chip I end up putting it into the lowest and slackest setting and leaving it alone, but not this time. In the low setting the Stumpjumper's bottom bracket height is a ground-scraping 328mm, and after one too many pedal strikes I ended up putting it into the higher position for the majority of the test period. Yes, that does steepen the head angle by .5 degrees, but it's still only 64-degrees in that high setting, which qualifies as being very slack in my book, especially for a 140mm 29er.
Despite those pedal vs. ground battles, the Stumpjumper is a surprisingly decent climber, especially considering that its geometry looks like it was lifted from a DH bike. It's not going to set any speed records, and it can feel a bit sluggish on flatter or slightly rolling terrain, but the slack head angle and relatively long chainstays do allow it to crawl up and over technical sections of trail without any issues. There's a reason those
crazy hill climb motorcycles are so long – the extended wheelbase makes it easier to keep the front end on the ground.
It's the opposite of a twitchy and skittish XC machine, and rather than encouraging out-of-the-saddle attacks on technical climbs, the Stumpjumper EVO makes it possible to stay seated, or at least not make as drastic of a position change, when tackling steep bits of trail. It felt like I had more time to decide how to unlock the puzzling parts of a climb, due to the fact that I didn't need to make as many micro-corrections.
I typically flipped the DPX2 shock into the middle setting for big fire road grinds, but for chunkier climbs, I left it in open to get as much traction as possible. Specialized didn't go crazy with the Stumpjumper's anti-squat numbers, but I still found that there was plenty of support to keep the shock from cycling too deep into its travel, even when standing up and sprinting out of the saddle. All that being said, the EVO is still a bike with a clear focus on the descents – climbing and getting through mellower terrain are simply tasks that need to be taken care of before the fun begins.
Though I will be honest I will like anything that comes in brushed aluminium!
Big slice of the market nowdays. Probably is unsafe to ride a bike notorious for cracking rear triangle.
Besides that, s seems to spend more $ in market research, advertising and graphic design than how much they spend in product development... sure bet they are not putting out a niche product, if anything it is the opposite as people start to understand that a 120 is more fun for most.
those guys know what theyre doin', so do their lawyers
Personally i always liked the camber better than the stumpy. The way the reduced travel shifted the angles and reach was favorable for riders with long arms and upper body like myself.
You have no idea what you are talking about. But you don't care because you are nothing more than a hater.
I think that precisely why they chose to first debut such mental geometry on the trail bike rather than the enduro bike. Specialised know what they’re doing.
@jaydawg69: I thought it was only the one racer and he chose the stumpy because he loves him some short chainstays (of the older stumpy) and the BB was lower meaning he could up-fork it and slacken it out without ruining it completely. But I don’t follow the racers themselves too closely tbh.
BTW I agree with @iqbal-achieve, this should be standard geometry for lower level bikes. Not saying that it shouldn't be on the Enduro, but it is a huge advantage for newer riders. It is like cheating for anything remotely technical up or down.
You’ve created a good bike at an excellent price point.
The Stumpjumper keeps getting better and better.
This bike is a third of the price of your top end bikes, and still performs well for its intended use and audience.
1. From one of the largest bike manufacturers which should yield a comparatively lower price
2. 150-140 travel which is medium in today's market
3. More than 32 pounds without pedals which is heavy for the price of
4. More than $3500
Yes, $3500 is cheap for a mountain bike today,and there's no doubt that this bike is a great performer,
but I am asserting that $3500+ is no godsend for a bike with okay spec and the above traits.
If I'm dishing out the big buck$ (BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT 3.5K IS) I better have some hot stuff.
Anyhow, just advocating that this bike is by no means a steal at its list price. I still bet this bike kicks absolute behind. The inflated industry may make it seem like a deal, but you can still get more for less, brand new, right now.
Are you comparing msrp to msrp? Sale prices online will always beat new msrp prices.
As for the weight, given the travel, wheel size and price it’s right point.
“Cheap, fast, light, pick two.”
K. Bontrager
Back in the 90’s, a Merlin titanium frame was $3,000
So in bike world terms, not actual dollar and cents, $3,500 is a good deal for a dh capable, ready to ride, full suspension bike.
I really hate it that I need to think alot more about that stuff. It is to expensive...
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@kfccoleslaw
No,
All sorts of claims are being made in regards to 44mm offset forks without much data or even while seemingly misunderstanding the concept of "trail." A common claim is that it "speeds up steering by reducing wheel flop." Which is incorrect. Reduced offset INCREASES trail, which INCREASES wheel flop. What reduced offset does do is initiate the turning of the front wheel earlier in the lean of the bike. Is that desirable? Is over steer a benefit or drawback? I can feel the over steer on a 44mm offset fork such that it requires me to counter steer somewhat to counteract the force. I've done back to backs on the same bike, one with 44mm offset and one with 51mm offset, and I prefer the 51mm offset for this very reason. Out of the saddle sprinting this turn initiation via lean is very noticeable on the 44mm offset fork.
Now, another argument is that it "improves traction" by moving the front wheel closer to you and therefore more weight is distributed over the front wheel. Moving the wheel back 7mm is going to improve traction to a noticeable point? Prove it. Where's the data? Where's the testing? The claim is made but that's all it is. And I suspect this is the case because developing a reliable, and more importantly, valid, method of proving this claim would be very complicated and difficult to do. You could of course prove this claim by using extreme examples (i.e. 10mm offset vs. 70mm or something). But I'm talking about a difference of 7mm in real world applications.
I'm not necessarily knocking it but I would like some data to support the claims being made. And as far as reducing "wheel flop". No. Higher trail increases wheel flop. So let's just put that one to bed. I hope the bike industry isn't just playing another gimmick here because it's "new" (it isn't) and "different" and somehow is going to add "magic" to the way a bike feels. Getting a little tired of marketing over-hype honestly.
Pros:
Overall "slower" steering
- This helps with climbing on a slack bikes like the sentinel, as the front wheel wanders less on climbs. I'd say it also
makes steep bikes easier to climb as well because there is less need for those micro-adjustments of your front
wheel. You also gain noticeably more stability and confidence at speed.
More front end grip
- Brings the front wheel closer to center of gravity and allows you to lean into turns harder.
Turn in
- Hard to put into words but dropping your shoulder into a turn just feels awesome and gives a "turning on rails"
sensation through the corners.
Cons:
Overall "slower" steering
- Pro and a con. While it is good for what I mentioned above, your bike will not feel as nimble as with a normal offset
fork. Think plowing through regardless of line choice vs carefully choosing a line.
Coming out of turns
- The fork wants to maintain its current line. Once you commit to a line, the short offset makes your bike want stick to
it, and it can also be hard to make quick direction changes mid turn. Not a huge deal, but it is definitely a different
feel than you are used to and you have to learn to corner a bit differently.
Overall, I'd say it comes down to your riding style. If you are wanting a slower, more controlled, and stable feeling front end then I'd go for the new short offset. If you like a more nimble and easily place-able feeling front end I'd stick with the normal offset. I will add that the new offset does have a learning curve to it. I initially didn't like it, but after learning how to properly turn and shift my weight onto the front wheel I much prefer it now. I think it actually made my cornering technique better because without proper technique it won't turn as easily. Hope this helped.
Personally one of the things I hated most was climbing (where you’re always going slow) over rough terrain, every undulation will try to grab that floppy wheel and turn it around and so essentially I found it to wander a lot more than a standard offset and wasted a lot of energy fighting the flop, trying to keep trucking right.
@mikekazimer does a great job of characterizing the qualities of this breed of bike. Don't trust the reviews? Try the bikes yourself, ask a friend, whatever. The proof is in the pudding.
@iqbal-achieve: I absolutely loves the handling of the Sentinel. It smashes corners and steeps. Baaaaaa
Nailed it. After riding the Sentinel and sb130 back to back, I hopped on the new (standard) Stumpjumper and it felt twitchy by comparison. I think after most riders adjust to the reduced offset that’ll be their preference.
And like I said we all adapt so in the end it probably doesn't make a difference anyway. I'm just getting tired of over-hyped "newness" of standards that are pushed as doing something they're not actually doing.
HAHAHAHA!!!! Yeah, I don't ride very fast. I live in the Sierra chief, used to race downhill and competed in Trials comps. I hold 9 or 10 downhill KOMs and am in the top 10 for many other downhill segments in my area (not that that matters). I'm so slow I know the difference between high and low trail....wait....do you even know what I just said? I hate to break it to ya but a 44mm offset fork isn't going to make you go any faster (wow) or inherently change the dynamic of your bike at high speeds.....you do know this right? Or have you drowned yourself entirely in the cool-aid?
More traction more faster.
You sure are making a lot of assumptions about me Bud, you know what they say about making assumptions. If you'd been paying attention you would know what I ride and what I've ridden and how those bikes pertain to the topic at hand b/c I stated that above. You did read the material before jumping into the thread and spouting off, right?
"I guess your faster than Lars Stenberg and know more."
Uh, that's some pretty tight logic you got there. Let's see how it holds up to scrutiny, ready? (pay attention here): "Loic Bruni is fast. Loic Bruni rides 27.5 wheels, therefore 27.5 wheels are superior. Oh but wait. Greg Minnaar is fast. Greg Minnaar rides 29er wheels, therefore 29er wheels are superior." This is just all so confusing. If you think Lars is fast because of a short offset fork I've got some Speed Glue™ I'd love to sell you (at a very "special" price too).
Lastly, you've conveniently ignored my references to "trail" and how it affects handling of a bike so it appears you have no idea what I'm talking about. For you Lars Sternberg is fast and that is all you need. Since this seems to plumb the depth of your knowledge of geometry and how it affects handling I think you and I are done here. And so with that, a good day to you sir.
www.pinkbike.com/video/489074
One huge advantage of this reduced leverage caused by the reduced offset is that when you have a slack head angle it is still very easy to control the front wheel on very steep and slow technical terrain. Have you ever had your front wheel flop to full lock because you applied the front brakes while trying to turn on a steep, descending, rocky corner? (Spoiler alert: I have far too often until I learned better). Reduced offset means that it takes much less force to control the wheel flop in this kind of situation, making these sorts of maneuvers much less sketchy feeling. On the flip side, at high speed this reduced leverage also makes it easier to control front wheel deflection due to hitting roots and rocks, and it still allows you to overcome the inherent stability caused by the larger amount of trail when you do need to turn.
While some people may not like the feel of the reduced offset, and it may not work well on a bike that has a head angle steeper than 65 degrees, I think it is the ideal setup for an all mountain / enduro bike in the Pacific North West, both for steep, slow tech and high speed bike park riding."
Quoted from another site.
Since trail is the distance from the steering axis, the larger your trail number, the larger the torque about the steering axis. Basically, the trial number IS the length of your lever arm.
You can see this if you put your bike up in a work stand and do a bit of an experiment: push with your finger on the lower leg of your fork (this is a trail of approx zero. You can get closer to zero with most forks by pushing slightly behind the lower leg, as most crowns are offset from the steering axis). Now push on your axle (this yields a trail number equal to the offset of your fork). Now push somewhere on your wheel that is not in line with the fork tubes (this yields a bigger trail). It's important that you make sure to apply the same force, in a direction parallel to the axle for all these trials. You should find that it's easier to rotate the steering axis/handle bars as you push further away from the steering axis.
Trail is a well understood concept applied in bicycle, motorcycle, and automotive industries. You can do a lot of research to learn more about it if you like. But basically, a trial number of zero means that the point of contact with the ground is directly in line with your steering axis, and therefore creates a lever arm of zero. The speaker who you quoted was incorrect about increased trail creating a reduced lever arm about the steering axis. Not that he didn't experience the things he experienced; I'm just saying his analysis of the mechanics is incorrect.
@mikekazimer experience echoes mine. It was an epiphany riding this long and slack of a bike, never want to return to 'traditional' geometry again, whatever that is. It isn't hype folks, give it a try.
Also, he explicitly stated that this is not a bike for all terrain, to 'infer' means to conclude from evidence or reasoning without explicit statements. Mr. Kazimer stated it directly, "If your rides typically include a pretty even mix of up or down, and usually don't involve shuttles or chairlifts, the regular Stumpjumper is the way to go." So I think it is fair to assume that individuals have come to the comments with that understanding already.
They nailed the geo on the Foxy. They are extreme where they should be be (TT, Reach), progressive where they should be (seat tube angle) and traditional where they should be (BB, Head Angle).
Some of these new bikes are going to be backtracking on some of their geo choices next time around, count on it.
I find 165s work much better for pedalling for a whole host of reasons, mostly biomechanical but also for clearance but I’d take a wider stance on my non pedal bikes every day. Doesn’t make a lot of sense to me that people want longer cranks to pedal and shorter ones to not pedal.
The fact is the closer your legs are together the more vertical extension you have, and the more you can affect weight distribution and absorb impacts. It also means stresses and muscle fatigue is reduced as you don't have the majority of your weight on your trailing leg. If you've been riding a long time go and do some single leg squats and you'll see what I mean. One leg will be piss weak by comparison.
Now, true wider stance, from using something like pedal axle extensions is something different and probably offers enough benefit to be worthwhile.
@ceecee: Humans aren't static objects, bad comparison. Telemarkers? If that's your counter I rest my case!
Happy new year
I was talking to a downhill skier whose legs I had 340mm apart just the other day....
When it comes to actual technical climbing, no, I don't think that it makes as much of a difference, and I've found that a slack head angle tends to create a bike that feels more stable and easier to keep on track while climbing.
As you know, the long rear centre and seat angle make this thing climb pretty good. Do you try it with lighter wheels? It transforms it.
Agreed.
I doubt the durability is any better either.
And slamming the saddle doesn't mean I need a smaller size - reach and top tube length are two different numbers. I moved the seat forward to get the upright pedaling position I prefer, and on the descents I found the 475mm reach to be a good match for my 5'11" height.
I got it sight unseen, having never had a bike with longer than 445mm reach, but took the leap and don't ever see myself going back now.
Yes, in this case there are both wheelsize options, but I chose the 29" version because I'd already spent time on the 'regular' 29" Stumpy.
Don't worry, though, there are some 27.5" bike reviews in the queue.
The way people use their bikes is changing, and while people used to ride 180/200mm bike for bikepark/shuttle only, and used to ride their trail bikes on trail in a "earn your turn" way , now, people use the more and more capable trail bikes for shuttle laps and park riding.
So obviously, the requirements (in frame and specs solidity) for trail bikes have changed, and if you combine this to longer frame + the 27.5 to 29 switch, you get an increased weight.
Did you only ride it uphill?
Spec doesn't get much credit for the innovation they have brought to the game. Long line of Evo builds pushing trends for trail/enduro bikes.
Rephrased to clarify that I'm excited to ride it and compare it to the Sentinel. The review would lead me to suggest that the Sentinel has the edge in the rough stuff and is a bit snappier, so maybe outside of climbing, it would come out the winner.
And did you pull the trigger?
www.pinkbike.com/u/andyrm/album/2019-Stumpjumper-Evo-S3-275
It doesn't "feel" fast, especially in my coil setup, but the clock says otherwise. Next up is an MRP Ribbon Coil to replace the 36 Factory, then I think it'll be perfect.
Not sure if anyone ~in the know~ would be able to comment on this, but I'd be interested to hear more!
Looks like a sick bike, good on them for putting something in at this price point!
That they’ve learned something they should have known before.
Proprietary shit sucks. Dicks.
Wait a minutes wasn’t pf30 these a*sholes idea
too?
From other perspective, made in china should be compared only to made in china
Still shorter than my hardtail, and I think you need ~20mm of spacer rings more
Firstly spesh copied frame from orbea and now it’s gone with raw alu frames, what next they start to produce frames in house to justify prices??
@dennyg1968
A 140mm travel bike that's pushing 34lbs(with pedals, cuz nobody rides without 'em).
That bike should be 4lbs less
I would prefer this polebicycles.com/machine , it has enough travel and it looks OK.
You should go for a 29er Capra(less weight,more travel) instead.
I like the idea behind aggressive trail bikes, but in 2018 it's just not a good value for money and weight IMO.
What cant be ignored is the slack head tube of the stumpjumper and the pricing of the Capra. 2* slacker is pretty significant and will help out on descents more than I think an extra 10f/20r mm of travel will. However, the Capra AL Comp is $2999usd. The SJ Evo price point puts you into carbon YT territory. Availability is a big factor as well. Not sure what the availability of the SJ Evo is, but you have to wait until next year for a Calra. And hope you can get your hands on one before it sells out.
I'm quite happy with my Capra AL 29.
Seat post angle on the Capra is the reason I did not buy a new one...that mixed with e13/SDG builds and the fact its a plow bike...Lets hope YT has a new Jeffsy up their sleeve with some modern geo numbers.
The Stumpy really is the best trail bike out there at the moment. Checks all the boxes people are looking for.
Yep Tim, direct bike buyers are not exactly a discerning bunch. They'll ride any old shit if it's cheap.
To say that “direct Bike buyers will ride any old shit” shows that you’re an arrogant dunce. Plenty of guys riding direct sales bikes will wreck you, while you harp on the fact that your geometry is “better”. Haha what a joke. Your bike better be groundbreaking, because the cost for the spec you get isn’t. Later.
But I’ll call you out when you’re calling Capra geometry a joke (when you’ve probably never ridden one), or saying that direct sales bikes are shit. That’s where you are arguing from ignorance.
You don’t have to defend the Evo like crazy to everyone who says something negative about it. And you really don’t have to go after people who only said that the Bike they own is enjoyable to them. Relax!
@Timroo1 My ignorant arse (despite working the last decade in the MTB industry, including 2 jobs working with Specialized bikes) will continue to enjoy the laughable kids wheeled Capra, how about you?
So, a single crown 29" DH bike.
Moar please, I would like to hit -50. Common, you can do it!