Descending The Jekyll is one smooth operator, with the ability to make it seem like someone fast forwarded geologic time by a few million years so that all the rocks lost their sharp edges. It doesn't completely erase square-edged hits, likely due in part to the shock's medium compression tune, but it does make them much less jarring, which in turn makes it easy to maintain momentum in choppy terrain. It's a bike that feels best at higher speeds, with a solid, ready-for-anything disposition that comes in handy when you're dropping into a brand new trail, unsure about what's around the next corner.
Depending on how it's executed, a high pivot suspension design can make a bike feel more planted than poppy, due to the chainstay length increasing as the bike goes deeper into its travel. On the Jekyll, that trait isn't as noticeable, and I didn't have to make any adjustments to my riding technique when hitting jumps. Granted, it's not a wildly energetic machine, but there's still enough life to it that it it doesn't feel totally glued to the ground, and it more than holds its own on machine-made jump trails.
I did find myself wondering how a coil shock would feel on this bike, or possibly a lighter compression tune. Even with the high- and low-speed compression all the way open on the Float X2 I felt like I wanted a touch more small bump sensitivity; there wasn't quite the level of grip I was looking for, something a coil shock or a different tune would likely take care of. Keep in mind that I'm on the lighter side of the spectrum, and this trait might not be as apparent to bigger riders.
The Jekyll is still manageable when the miles per hour drop, but it isn't isn't quite as easy to snake through tight, techy sections as the
Kavenz VHP 16 that I reviewed a few months ago. That bike's shorter chainstays gave it an impressive ability to handle awkward, slow speed maneuvers. Those moves were still possible on the Jekyll, they just didn't feel quite as effortless.
Overall, the Jekyll has a well balanced, predictable feel to it, a trait that would make it work well as a race bike, assuming the tracks were rowdy enough, or as a long-travel machine for riders who want want to mix in some pedal powered laps with their bike park and shuttle runs.
To be fair, it does lead to better bracing angles, but no one else uses it. At least super boost is kind of a standard, and would lead to the same results (a laterally stiffer wheel)
inseam riders who struggle with a big rear wheel but still want to go fast on big terrain.
Business at the sides as well for good measure.
We spend all this engineering (high pivot with idlers) to create rearward axle path to avoid the rear wheel getting "hung up" on obstacles, despite the increased complexity and additional drag to the system. Guess what also helps to limit rear wheel hang up? That's right! Larger diameter wheels.
As someone who is also 6'2", who rides primarily steep, rocky and technical terrain, I love the increased contact patch and rollover of a full 29er. I'll happily trade minor minor improvements in agility for the benefits of a 29er. But I also won't tell any internet strangers that they shouldn't enjoy their preferred wheelsize.
A lot to do with it is bottom bracket height.
If 29ers had the same bb height as 27.5, then that would be a step in the right direction.
I’m not sure why manufs think that 29ers need 350mm heigh BBs when the same travel 27.5 is 335-340mm...
Makes a massive difference on the steeps, and cornering.
Beyond that, if you're trying to suggest that 5mm of BB height during dynamic riding is more noticeable than 29 vs 27.5 wheel diameter at the rear wheel, I think we're operating from two different planets. Moving the center of mass of a 250 lb (me + bike + gear) system by a couple of millimeters is so unlikely to be noticeable to anyone but the top 0.01% of riders...if that.
Hell, I sometimes do the flip chip to raise the BB 10mm because of all the damn pedal strikes. I can't imagine pedaling over technical terrain with a 335mm BB. Nightmare for rocky areas.
Glad you like your mullet. But to say "mullets are better full stop" is absurd. See the recent bike checks across EWS and DH - plenty of mullets and plenty of full 29er. And these are folks who have access to any configuration they like. Hell, some of the "full 29er" folks are women and shorter riders!
Yea obvs, so why aren’t the frame’s geo to drop the bb back down.
I’ve ridden so many 29 and 27.5 bikes its obvious to me. I loved the 29ers with the low bbs like the evil offering, nukeproof reactor, marin alpine trail, and couldn’t stand ones with a 350+ bb like the pivot firebird. (Actually the firebird 29 was much better with 27.5 wheels dropped down 19mm!)
Stump evo was 325 bb - ripper!
You're entagling very broad "I like this bike" and attribute it to something as specific as BB height. Maybe you didn't like the Pivot Firebird because you didn't like a LOT about that bike (frame geo, suspension system, damper tune, tire choice, etc.)
The fact is, you can only drop the BB so low before it becomes a nightmare to pedal. Most modern "rippers" seem to live in the 335-350mm BB height range, and the effective BB height (the actual height at sag and during real world riding) is going to be highly dependent on suspension travel, rear axle path and sag.
Example: if you ride a 150mm travel bike at 30% sag, with a BB height of 335mm, your effective (on trail) BB height is ~308mm. If I ride 170mm travel bike at 30% sag, with a BB height of 350mm, my effective BB height is ~319mm (assuming similar wheel arcs). This will cause the center of mass of the whole system to be within 5-10mm across both of these bikes. That is SUCH a small difference compared to wheel size, suspension kinematics, suspension tune, tire choice, wheel base, reach, HTA, etc. Hell, you could effectively lower the BB by a couple mm simply by running slightly lower tire pressure or selecting a different tire volume.
Yes I fully understand what your saying and agree to some extent, but I also think you under estimate how many bikes I’ve tested, ridden, owned which when combined is probably coming up to 100 (I used to do a bit of trade). Yes it is definitely personal preference, as it is for everyone - I’m just saying the above from real world experiences and experiments, a lower bb corners better and feels more confident.... unless you live in a very rocky place and are going to ground out all the time / potentially have an off from pedal strikes etc.
[thumbs up]
In my opinion they all go hand in hand. You don’t say how much difference of HTA and wheelbase to compare so I can’t really answer that, but yea they can make more of a noticeable difference. The other trait of the firebird 29 I didn’t like was it was a relatively steep HTA. When navigating very steep chutes and steering in a catch berm, this combined with a high BB made it feel like the front it was going to fold under itself. If I had been on a XL, with the same BB heigh, the extra reach and wheel base *may* have prevented this feeling. Or had the head angle been 63.5 then again, maybe this would have helped. However same bike with 27.5 wheels, so BB is now 20mm lower, didn’t get any of this feeling of turning under... So in answer to your question - its a combo of all of them.
The evil offering mk1 has very similar geo to the fb29, although a steeper head angle of 65.6 (0.6 steeper) and a lower bb at 338 (10mm lower) and a similar wheelbase. I found this way more confident on the same steep chute.
Currently I’m riding a Nukeproof Giga 275 with 190mm fork, which is longer wheelbase, lower bb and slacker head angle than both, and I’ve never felt so confident :-)
And yes I can tell the difference of 5-6mm of bb height. I went from a nunkeproof reactor to a 2021 transition scout for my trail bike, and it did feel higher. Obvs I got used to it, but even though the scout is slacker and longer than the reactor, I’m not sure I’m as fast as I was on the reactor!! (Take these bikes to loamy rooty steep off piste, very minimal rocks)
This would make your current bike's BB higher than the Pivot Firebird (348mm) in stock configuration, and the current Evil Offering (I know, you are comparing the the mk1) which comes in at 339-347mm.
Again, this leads me to believe that the confidence you are feeling is the result of suspension kinematics/sag, HTA and overall bike geometry...not the BB height.
Don’t worry, I measure everything - I’m a complete geek!
Personally, and you could probably tell from my comments, I ride a 2021 Spec Enduro and I have found that I prefer it in the "high BB" position. That said, part of my drive there is to avoid pedal strikes. Where I ride is technical and rocky on the climbs, and I ride 175mm cranks - I'm constantly smashing my pedals into rocks.
Supposed to be an amazing bike, I’ve owned a 2017 Enduro 29/6fattie and a 2018 Enduro 27.5. Preferred the 27.5 unsurprisingly!
You can really feel this on an ebike, where they are just so heavy that there is little deflection in loose rocky sections.
Where I take issue is that shock placement has a dramatic effect on the CoG. Tubing shape is often more likely to affect the CoG, since air shocks are often lighter than a comparable section of aluminum tubing.
Plenty to explore in COG, for sure.
But an (200mm long, day) air shock weighs less than 200mm of aluminum bike tubing? Impossible
Indeed it is, I spaced out on the late night keyboard.
Nice looking bike from a brand I often ignore.
Pants seem to work well on my gravity cavity, so I’m sure that people will come up with solutions if problems arise
Exposed shock that's recessed in the down tube looks like it's going to get mangled by loose stones.
I have experience with Giant bikes which have that small pocket in the down tube connecting the lower shock eyelet with the frame and these bikes have much bigger pocket with stanchion parallel and getting a stone in there between shock body and inside wall of the down tube could mangle everything.
Would be amped to see something like this more in the Trail / AM Bike region (think Forbidden Druid).
I love the high pivot bikes, but I'm actually thinking about downgrading from my Propain Tyee to something more suited to my local trails (but with a HPV and the genes to smash it in the alps nonetheless please)
Hope they'll come up with something like this soon!
IIRC CRC is the parent company for Nukeproof and Vitus...https://www.pinkbike.com/news/dale-mcmullen-ali-beckett-nukeproof-vitus-interview-2016.html touches on that.
we're talking only a little bit of lateral movement, with some sort of bushing. Again, along the lines of what Shimano does with RDs.
Thinking about this more...if the chain over the pulley is under tension from either pedaling or suspension compression...couldn't they design a tooth profile that was more accommodating of the angles involved? It doesn't need to be a full narrow/wide profile for chain retention.
Oh I am sorry you mean a pulley that would adjust to chainline. Yeah that could probably work.
This. Exactly This. When riding my Giga it feels like I can snipe any line. Amazing property of a bike.
150$ for e bearing replacement? What kind of bearings are that?
That's what they did to the entire East Coast (Appalachians)
best Jekyll yet?
As they arrived at the top right next to me I thought what horrible botch is that on the downtube.
They could design the downtube covers that empty space with spare carbons or sth
Or you could just get a little piece of motocross foam and put it there to keep the debris out.
No one wants to. You don't have a lot of choice. Ride in mud / don't ride at all are the options in the UK for 90 percent of the year.
www.pinkbike.com/news/bold-unplugged-volume-1-first-ride.html
enjoy
What would happen if it was west?
Otherwise, this is a HUGE improvement imo.
You could see these path on a 26" bike with no idler. But it's really standing out from average 29er.
IMHO, If I were looking for "pop" I'd rather have a conventional suspension platform and not deal with the idler.
I am mostly interested to see if Cannondale will make any headway with their new designs. I was somewhat interested in the Habit but the Ai offset and 29" wheels were just not something I wanted to be a part of lol. I like that they seem to be supporting a few riders that are less/not race focused.
Quoting Pinkbike here.
“A high pivot can create a rearward path at the axle, which, in theory, allows the rear wheel to more easily move away from, and then over, an obstacle. The high pivot position, however, leads to a lot of chain growth as the axle moves away from the chainring, which will cause a lot of pedal kickback.
But there is a solution - the simple addition of an idler pulley close to the pivot point that routes the chain up and over it. High pivot bikes equipped with idlers have characteristics that are unique: the lack of chain growth, along with the rearward axle path, allows the wheel to float over bumps in a very different way than other designs.”
I don’t think you will notice that 40% of the forward path. ;-)
www.pinkbike.com/news/the-resurgence-of-high-pivot-suspension-design.html
Mind you I haven't ridden this Cannondale, but looking to buy another high pivot, just not this one
Rea;lly this is not a grade 2 test the name on this bike represents the past and Crack n fail's Jekyll weighed 26 pounds in 2012-2017