SRAM released the latest version of their Code brakes
earlier this year, and since then they've been popping up on more and more bikes, everything from enduro race machines to full blown DH rigs. They use a similar design to SRAM's Guide brakes, but with an increased fluid reservoir and larger piston diameter to increase their stopping power.
There are two different versions, the Code RSC ($244) reviewed here, and the Code R ($154). Both brakes have alloy lever blades, but the Code R brakes cost slightly less due to the lack of a pad contact adjustment, although they still have a tool-free reach adjustment knob. At the caliper, the Code RSC uses phenolic plastic pistons for improved heat management, while the Code R's pistons are aluminum.
SRAM Code RSC Details• Intended use: downhill / enduro
• Four piston caliper
• Larger fluid volume
• Aluminum lever blade
• Reach adjust, pad contact point adjust (RSC)
• Bleeding Edge caliper fitting
• DOT 5.1 fluid
• Weight: 294 grams (actual, front caliper w/pads, hose, and lever)
• MSRP: $244 (RSC), $154(R)
•
www.sram.com DetailsThe Code's lever body design is almost identical to what's found on the more trail-riding oriented Guide brakes, including the same cam activated cup seal and port system. The main difference is the size of the lever's reservoir, which holds 30% more fluid. That increase in volume is designed to ensure that the brakes feel the same for the duration of a run, no matter the length or steepness.
At the caliper end, the new Codes use 15mm and 16mm pistons; the slightly larger dimension versus the Guide's 14 and 16mm pistons is said to help increase the amount of stopping power by 15%. The brakes come with metallic brake pads already installed, and it's the same pad design as what was found on the previous generation of Code brakes.
The calipers also now have SRAM's Bleeding Edge fitting, where the bleed adaptor pushes into a port in the caliper, eliminating one of the tiny screws that used to like to go missing during a brake bleed.
PerformanceI've spent the last six months on the new Code brakes, and during that time period they've seen everything from long, sustained brake burners in Pemberton, BC, numerous laps in the Whistler Bike Park, along with countless hours of everyday trail riding. Throughout all of that, their performance has been remarkably consistent, delivering the same level of power no matter how long the run.
At first I wondered if the Code's increased amount of stopping power would be overkill for the Trek Slash that I installed them on, but I ended up really appreciating that extra power. I was able to brake later, and for less time compared to the Guide Ultimate brakes they replaced, which lead to reduced hand fatigue after long days of riding. There's not quite the same level of modulation – the Codes' power comes on quicker than the Guides – but I didn't have any trouble controlling their output, even on slippery, dusty rock rolls and loose corners.
I was glad to see that the Codes come properly configured with metallic pads out of the box; I've never understood why so many brakes come spec'd with organic pads, considering that they wear quickly and can be unpredictable in wet conditions. However, during a hot, steep, dusty ride in Pemberton they did develop an ear-splitting howl on a trail that required heavy, sustained braking. The power remained the same, but the sound was tough to bear. Organic pads would have likely silenced, or at least reduced, that howling, but that instance seemed to be an outlier, and otherwise the brakes were quiet and trouble-free for the duration of the test period.
SRAM Code vs Shimano SaintNow for the big question – Shimano Saint vs SRAM Code – which one should you pick? Given that both options have been proven at the highest levels of mountain biking, along with the fact that they're similarly priced, it's the little details that set them apart. Personally, if I was forced to choose I'd go with the Codes. That'll undoubtedly raise the hackles of the die-hard Shimano fans, but here's the breakdown:
Modulation: SRAM's Code and Shimano's Saint brakes both have enough power to slow down the biggest riders on the steepest tracks, but the way the Codes' power is delivered is a little easier to manage. There's a slight ramp up to before the maximum amount of power is deployed, where the Saints' power comes on quicker, giving them more of an on/off feel. Based solely on outright power, the Saints have the edge, but the Codes take the cake when it comes to modulation.
Consistency: I've been on multiple sets of Code and Saint brakes over the last few months, and I've found the Codes to have a more predictable lever feel, especially during longer, more sustained braking. On the Saints, the power is always there, but the amount the lever needs to move before you can feel the pads contacting the rotor isn't as consistent as I'd like, even on a freshly bled set of brakes. The Codes are more consistent, and I didn't have any unwanted pumping up during the test period.
Lever Shape / Design: Shimano's levers are a little shorter than SRAM's, with a more pronounced hook on the end, and dimples on the blade that are meant to add traction in the wet. Both shapes fit my hands well, and it doesn't take long for me to get used to either one. As far as ergonomics go, I'd call it a draw, but SRAM takes the win when it comes to adjusting the lever feel. The pad contact dial on the Codes actually works, while I'm pretty sure the free stroke adjust on Shimano's brakes is just for show.
Pinkbike's Take:  | The new Codes pick up where the originals left off, with loads of power, excellent modulation, and a rock solid lever feel. They'll be overkill for mellower trails, but they're an excellent choice for everything from all-mountain riding to DH racing.— Mike Kazimer |
Maybe I am a shill because I am on my third pair of replacement zee levers, as they keep leaking on me.
that being said I am also on my third set of srams because of poor engineering, I will be running the tektros by the end of the year.
No Kidding, I thought that was a feature of SRAM brakes to warn people in front of you that you can't stop...
Horses for courses!
I know Guides have better modulation. However as an ex mechanic, I'd go Shimano every time.
Shimano is still first on my list, followed by Magura which I have found to be super reliable and highly under rated.
Citroen have been using mineral oil commercially in the automotive business for more than 60 years now. It works well on brakes and suspension, euro mechanics know how to deal with it. It's a good fluid when used properly. On a bike, the only downside is the feedback you have from the lever when it's freezing outside.
@Rubberelli Come one man, you're not even a mechanic ... What do you really know about boiling the fluid? If your DOT is boiling on a pushbike blame water contamination first. Just to be clear, some LBS use 6 plus month old DOT when they "bleed" brakes. Back up what you say about mineral oil brakes with facts and experience, not false rumors. Exemple: what you said about Gwin's brakes was bogus.
And Euskafreez, since every single tech rep and engineer that I have talked to in this industry explains that they have fairly easily demonstrated boiling points in their R&D process in and that those temperatures are in fact higher than most motor vehicle situations will experience... I'd say boiling point DOES MATTER!
Here's where it gets tricky though (and also why almost ALL manufacturers recommend a bleed AT MINIMUM once a year)... All brake systems are going to take on some moisture (environmental factors play a role here). The KEY difference between DOT and Mineral Oil is that DOT is Hydrophilic meaning the fluid absorbs moisture into the fluid while Mineral Oil is Hydrophobic meaning that any moisture in the system separates and remaining moisture condensation has a very low boiling of +/- 210 F. While moisture lowers the boiling point of DOT as more moisture gets absorbed into the fluid, it still never reaches that of water.
And for those that say Mineral Oil is safer for the environment or easier on seals... it is not! Read the MSDS disposal instructions for Shimano Mineral Oil and they're the exact same as DOT fluid. Or just bleed a Shimano Brake after a few DH runs an look at the color of that fluid... don't tell me that's not degrading seals SOMEWHERE in the system.
www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/dot-brake-fluid-vs-mineral-oil : "Unlike DOT fluid, Mineral Oil is hydrophobic and does not absorb moisture from the environment. This means that there are no wet or dry boiling temperatures to worry about, the boiling point stays constant and never drops. That's the good news.
The bad news is that any water that does enter the brake system, via seals or microscopic pores in the lines etc., will effectively reduce the boiling point of the whole brake system to that of water - just 100°C. This is because as the fluid repels any water ingress, it causes it to pool at low points within the brake system, usually the calliper, since water is heavier than brake fluid it will settle at the lowest point. This is worrying because the fluid in the calliper is more susceptible to high temperatures as it's at the business end of the brake, where the friction is created."
But we only use the best maple syrup on the market, none of that american shit or the stuff we send overseas... and if you break the hose or levers just make sure to have some pancakes with you.
My second to last bike had Guide RSC's which I bled once for 2 years of riding, and my last bike had XT's which I was bleeding once a week. I'm going with Code RSC's on my next build and super excited to have consistent lever feel again!
I switch back and forth personally. I love the simplicity and easy bleeding of the Shimanos, but I really prefer the way my hands feel after a day on the Srams. I also like the way they can be just barely applied when you just want a little peace of mind at speed.
My hunch is that people who like Shimano brakes don't have long descents. Here in the PNW there is general loathing for how Shimano brakes work - and I'm not just talking about the trail destroying lack of modulation. The majority of riders have gone to Guides or Codes, even with the known lever piston issues.
Has there ever been a truly good performing, problem free brake made for a competitive price? I don't think so. Designing brakes is hard.
SRAM's warranty and customer service is 100% better than Shimano as well. They're on top of their stuff. Brake issue? Cool. Here's a new brake, and we'll pay for the next 3 months of your mortgage as an apology.
Also, about 70% of riders around here are on SRAM brakes.
and maybe sram has a better warranty (I have had to deal with their warranty department twice recently and no they didn't pay for 3 months of my mortgage), but you only need a good warranty department if your stuff is failing. I primarily use shimano and have never had brakes or anything from them not perform as advertised.
@enrico650 so he's a moron because his experience doesn't fit your world view? Seriously get out of here...
You like Shimano brakes, good for you. But stop being a d*ck about it, some of us actually do like Sram.
The XTs are easier to bleed and I like the non-toxic mineral oil, but you have to bleed them much, much more frequently.
Pistons on SRAM guides because it gets so fricking hot here in the SoCal summers. In my opinion SRAM handled the situation very well and my customers were taken care of. Shimano hasn't had the stuck piston issue, but we have dealt leakage issues and some brakes requiring bleeds every month. Shimano's warranty department is harder to deal with in general. They both make great brakes but I have never like the Shimano lever feel.
These are in short descent Florida trails too.
Currently eyeing the new magura trail brake set up or guide ultimate
Guides with the lever issue are crap though...
The biggest problem of sram is in my opinion their brake pads are total shit. Get some replacement ones immediately (I love my kool stop sintered with copper baseplate) and power increases dramatically.
FWIW Zees on the DH bike never got the rear to work right. Guides on the trail bike need a bleed. But the formulas on the hard tail/kid trailer rig zero issues over 3 years.
"Mineral oil? You mean salad dressing?"
+'s: Cheap and easy to find. Regulated by the feds.
-'s: Eats paint, Extremely Hygroscopic, Degrades significantly with contact to air or water.
Lowest tested Boiling point of Mineral Oil? 300C.
+'s: Non-Toxic, Non-Corrosive, Never Degrades, Never mixes with dirt or water or air
-'s: A bit more expensive, people on pinkbike make fun of you.
Dot 5.1 has a dry boiling point of 270C. It has a WET boiling point of 180C. Wet is when water mixes with the DOT fluid
mineral oil has a dry boiling point of...well, it actually just depends on which brand you are using. it can go anywhere from 120c-280c with Shimano being the highest. now,when water enters the system, the water doesn't get absorbed into the fluid so the wet boiling temp is essentially 100C because that's what water boils at.
you can like whichever brand brake you want, but keep the facts real and consistent.
This is some grade-A cherry picking here. The standard boiling points are MINIMUMS. Most good fluids exceed them by a great deal.
Torque RT 700 has a dry boiling point of 360C, which is quite a bit higher than Shimano.
And hygroscopic is a good thing. If your seals fail and you get water in the line, you still get consistent performance. With mineral oil, you get pockets of water that flash to steam. Terrible idea.
Not a redneck and I have to bikes 2 bikes with xt brakes 3 bike with Sram and 1 with Hope 6 pots...plus other bikes with hydros that are long gone. So my short opinion is just based on me.
What is roll the coal by the way..is that like taking a dump? Cuz I've been a cyclists since the 60's, pretty sure I wasn't dumping on them..
water is heavier than mineral oil and sinks to the bottom of the system. the caliper is the bottom of the system so that's where all of your water gathers.
Second: there is a ton of heat generated in calipers. many manufacturers spend a ton of time and money on heat dissipation.
The bottom of the system is not exclusively the calipers, some bikes have other low points within the cable that I see water in more often than not, usually near the bottom bracket on 50% of bikes. Also, very little seepage of water compared to air on all brakes. I have honest to god never seen a problem go away without the removal of air in the system, and water in brakes is comically easy to get out compared to air.
As for calipers, most of the heat is generated at the pads, a majority is captured at the rotor. Between the centimeter of ceramic and alloy on either side of that, there is a lot of heat distribution and capture. The outsides of the container in this case will be hotter than the fluid. I am not also therefore saying that flash points are impossible, but a lot of systems these days go well above 1000PSI, and water boils conservatively at that temp. around 160C. That means that any "Flash Points" are instantly condensed when the master cyl. is needed. As for AVID? A degenerating Dot5 Fluid means that system dilution is unpredictable and unaccountable.
Please, keep pulling your marchocchi forks and Avid brakes and selling them for dirt cheap, I will continue to enjoy them.
My RSs are working well now but my XTRs and XTs were great 90% of the time. SRAM has been abysmal about the same amount of time. I put up with it though because I like modulation!
Because they don't squeal like a piggy for one thing. I hate metal pads with a vengeance. No issues with organic pads other than they wear out quicker.
Because you can't seem to grasp the concept, here is an article outlining when organic pads should be used www.pinkbike.com/news/brake-pad-information-2009.html (Hint, its not for DH)
Shimano = stopping power bite and less overal modulation
SRAM = spongulation
Plenty of great riders will run either...not sure why people bring up skill in this discussion. I hated the guides, jury is still out on the codes, but I'm not rushing to try them.
Maybe I am a shill because I am on my third pair of replacement zee levers, as they keep leaking on me.
That being said I am also on my third set of srams because of poor engineering, I will be running the tektros by the end of the year. Quadium's.
I am hopefully done with the sram/shimano crap, if the Tektro/TRP doesn't work I will go magura or hope, probably hope.
I like normal guide but fried a set in the alps. RE have similar feel/modulation but loads of power.
Basically avid code calipers and guide R levers. £200 a pair on chainreactioncycles.
I like the power, the consistency in various temperatures, and I like having a previously-opened bottle of friendlier fluid that I can use for a few years.
Saints do have a "free stroke adjust" but its horse shit. Nobody on earth would use anything but the minimum free stroke setting. If you make something adjustable, make it go through the range of different people's preferences, not an adjustment from "good enough" to "total shit".
Also, I like the shimano ergos better, but not by a lot.
And...if you guys haven't tried the TruckerCo metallic pads, you should! I've never kept the Shimano pads very long and the TruckerCo's are good to the last drop.
cheers
...dozens of warrantee claims each week per shop in PHX
Great reviews from pres$, bad reviews from users.
You can't convince me (without me riding these new Sram brakes) - that I'd want to give up my Saints.
Saints do act like a on / off lever if you just install the pre-bled ones, but if you bleed them they modulate really well IMO.
Saints are just such a final answer, so I'm real skeptical these can out-perform them.
Er, what? Compared to aluminum, plastic (of any form) has a lower melting temperature and is a better insulator.
Wouldn't that be worse? What's the upside of switching to plastic, beside that they are cheaper to make? Wouldn't that just make the SRAM piston issues worse?
Running 180mm rotors front/rear, the Code seems to add quite a bit more torque for stopping for me than Guide. Advertised as 15%. Seems greater than that with the 2020 Code RSC vs the 2020 Guide G2 Ultimate.
5 year leak proof warranty, uber powerful, uber light, easy brand to deal with in any context. Never broken a master off the bar either.
I have had an issue straight out of the box and Magura fixed me up really fast.
My only gripe with MT7s is the pistons can engage unevenly but you just have to drag them down some steeps for everything to even out (they like to be warmed up from time to time).
It's not about how they perform when they work like they are supposed to. We are complaining about the lack of reliability of the MTs, the whole line from top to bottom. And I'm not in a crusade against Magura, I had Magura brakes on at least one of my bikes in the past 20 years.
MT7 = very worst brakes on the planet and possibly the universe.
CARE TO ELABORATE?
www.pinkbike.com/photo/15135579
www.pinkbike.com/news/srams-new-code-brakes-first-ride-2017.html
www.pinkbike.com/news/sram-guide-ultimate-brakes-review-2015.html
www.pinkbike.com/news/sram-guide-rs-brake-review-2014.html
Not a single bad word and we all know all those brakes ARE piece of crap...You've just lost the little credibility you still had as far as Im concern...Oh and no one is saying you've promised positive reviews , but you sure wont say it when a product is indeed garbage...The LARGE majority of riders knows how shitty Sram brakes have been for YEARS and yet , not a single bad thing has ever been said about it on Pinkbike...Its either you guys are shit reviewers OR you like your job and you know very well that Sram probably wouldnt give you as much ( as in ANY ) cash if the reviews were always bad...
And come on, you really think that pinkbike, of all the websites, is taking bribes from sram? You clearly went into those reviews expecting bad things because you just wanted your own opinions validated.
i realy miss that
www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0uSTtDWbI8
Watch the video.
I've never understood why so many brakes come spec'd with organic pads, considering that they wear quickly and can be unpredictable in wet conditions. However, during a hot, steep, dusty ride in Pemberton they did develop an ear-splitting howl on a trail that required heavy, sustained braking
I got a set of ancient Juicy 5s on 1 rig, which have never given me issue, and a set of SLXs on the other - noisy AF and piss poor power until I sanded the organic pads and scuffed the rotors. Also noticed the SLXs stop stopping once I play around with the reach adjust? I want to adjust my lever reach Shimano, not make the brakes useless.
SRAM/Avid, has their issues, but when serviced properly they work they work ok.
I figured that if they're as good as Kazimer says, then I'll be happy to save the $400 for the Saints.
Unfortunately, this 'review' had little in common with the reality of my REAL WORLD experience with the new Codes
For starters, their power seems more on par with Guides than REAL gravity brakes(Saints, V4s etc). I weigh 240lbs, and I had to use two fingers and all their mite to slow my bike down on the steeps.
Secondly-they fricken howl and squeal, just like we've all come to know and 'love'(sarcasm) with Sram brakes.
I guess Kazimer must've tested his on pristine asphalt, 'cuz the only way these thing don't make any noise, is if you stay OUT of the dirt.
These things are basically Guides, but I'm not gonna wait around and let 'em do the Sram warm-weather disappearance act.
They're gone, and the tried-and-true Saints are going on yet again.
I know I should've known better than to trust a PB review on something as critical as brakes, but since they came on my new bike, and the thought of saving $400 really appealed to me, I wanted to believe it.
Lesson learned
Even with the update, most gravity riders here will avoid SRAM brakes like the plague. Zee's have spectacularly failed here, too, btw, but people still prefer it over Guides or Codes.
I hope SRAM (or maybe even PinkBike) can show conclusive testing that their brakes won't try to kill you whenever the Mercury rises.
I am on my third set, people try and implicate that they are overfilled, but I follow the procedure to a T.
Hope brakes suck man.
It’s nice that they’re made in England. But they’re not better in any other way.
That’s why the only mechanics that use them are the ones that have made in Britain boners.
Ya totally. Mostly because of the big stupid open reservoir for oil to slop all over the place as you’re trying to get the brake lever to be the high point so you can run fluid through them while painstakingly felching it out batch by batch in the hopes that you get all the bubbles out. But you never can be sure because just like shimanos, there’s no back pressure bleed fitting syringe system.
Time to move forward guys
As well, theyre still using externally mounted hose banjos that can get banged loose, and often do. I think that’s how Cedric Garcia nearly died back 5 years ago.
There’s a good reason why sram has them in a protected position on the caliper.
What else...
Oh ya. They don’t feel very good.
But mostly
All the pommies and rich people that get them in lame anodized colours to match their stupid everything else that’s anodized.
(bike + me = 120kg/264lbs)
Given PB's 'review' history, had this been a Saint 'review', he would've said 'I'd go with the Saints'.
Shocking(obviously I'm being facetious) how he didn't bother to mention the master(s) seizing up when the weather got warm, and you KNOW they did
Shimano vs Avid !!! WTF?
Only Saint))
Over a set of brakes that stop me immediately... except only sometimes
Someone had said :
Just look at the number of ads Sram runs on this and any other site... bad reviews no more ads.
Mike then replied :
mikekazimer MOD PLUS (14 mins ago)
@RedRedRe: That's simply not true. I wouldn't work for a company that promised positive reviews to advertisers - our reviews are as unbiased as possible, and if something's a piece of crap you'll hear about it.
And I said
tuumbaq (0 mins ago)
@mikekazimer: lol well thats debatable :
www.pinkbike.com/news/srams-new-code-brakes-first-ride-2017.html
www.pinkbike.com/news/sram-guide-ultimate-brakes-review-2015.html
www.pinkbike.com/news/sram-guide-rs-brake-review-2014.html
Not a single bad word and we all know all those brakes ARE piece of crap...You've just lost the little credibility you still had as far as Im concern...Oh and no one is saying you've promised positive reviews , but you sure wont say it when a product is indeed garbage...The LARGE majority of riders knows how shitty Sram brakes have been for YEARS and yet , not a single bad thing has ever been said about it on Pinkbike...Its either you guys are shit reviewers OR you like your job and you know very well that Sram probably wouldnt give you as much ( as in ANY ) cash if the reviews were always bad...
I guess you dont like being called how your BS Mike ? Lol , lets see how long this post will stay here, hopefully a lot people can view this before you delete it again .
"The LARGE majority of riders knows how shitty Sram brakes have been for YEARS" - No, the majority of riders find the majority of brakes from both companies just fine. Some have had issues with Sram or Avid brakes, there's a lot who haven't. Shimano brakes of recent haven't been great, but you don't see me posting bollocks like what you've just spewed onto this page... Just read the comments and look at all the crap people are dealing with their Shimano brakes and come back and tell me how they're so much better. The difference between Shimano and Sram is that Sram admit to mistakes, Shimano just sweep it under the rug by ignoring it or discretely bringing out a slightly revised product.
I've owned multiple sets of Avids, from Juicy's to Elixirs, XO trails, Codes and now every type Guide (excepting the RE), and have never had to warranty any of them, and very minimal bleeding. My Shimano XT's and Saints were horrid and I couldn't wait to ditch them, yet I respect the Deore and SLX series for their price point, power and better modulation.
I'm not against either, I don't like to ride Shimano brakes myself as they simply don't suit me, but at least I respect those who do.