Richie Rude was testing out Fox's RAD (Racing Applications and Development) electronically controlled shock. Wireless sensors are located on the fork and rear brake caliper so that the shock can adapt to terrain changes.
SRAM's unreleased brake caliper first showed up last year on the World Cup circuit, and now it's made its way onto Jesse Melamed's bike.
The pads look larger than the current Code pads, and the caliper itself is reminiscent of the original Code brakes, although this one looks to be held together by four bolts.
The elusive 2.5" Maxxis DHR II tires, only available to the lucky test pilots out there.
Ibis' new long travel rig made another appearance.
The DW-link layout on the unnammed bike has the upper link in front of the seat tube, a departure from the design used on the Ripmo and HD5.
Charlie Murray was running a custom carbon link on his Specialized Enduro.
Flat pedals still win medals - Dan Booker (2nd), Connor Fearon (3rd) and Morganne Charre (2nd) were all running flats this weekend.
Fobidden has been using a flipped four-bar suspension layout for their DH bike, and now it's made its way to the enduro world. The Druid hasn't seen an update in a while, or maybe this model will sit in between the Druid and Dreadnought?
Dan Booker was running a steering damper on his Nukeproof.
@mammal: Yep. There are a ton of other bikes I considered, but the Ripley AF ticked just about every box. I will eventually replace it with a new gen smuggler, but until then it's ugly ass pond scum green for me.
@way2manyhobbies2keep: agreed first gen firebird 29. Great bike. Ibis needs to go superboost and just finish the deal. Their tire clearance is horrible.
@gbones: one of them was setup asa mullet and I overheard a rider saying they'd likely run a 29e for racing.... So guessing os could handle both swtups somehow but thats pure speculation. Details are not being shared just yet
I'll be frank: I think the current crop of 38mm forks are entirely too much fork for 98% of riders (comment not applicable to EWS professionals ) You're adding over 3/4 of a pound in exchange for the added torsional stiffness - which may actually offer less performance for many riders.
@KJP1230: I dont ride especially hard but can honestly say I have never felt the need for a torsionally stiffer fork even back on my old Marz Bombers and flexy wheels never bother me much either.
The lies we tell ourselves are the ones that keep us up at night, probably explaining to our wives why we spent all the money on bike parts.
@KJP1230: Same thing happens elsewhere. People have flash cars with more performance than they need and will likely ever use. Same with motorcycles. Mtb has gone the same way.
@KJP1230: Wasn’t there a PB article a while ago asking pros if they prefer 35/6 or 38mm stanchions? I feel like a bunch of them still said they like the smaller size.
@KJP1230: I got by on a 170mm 36 cuz it made my bike light but the 38 is soo much stiffer fore/aft, does't creak, and binds much less. Under braking front traction & confidence are much improved. I can now enter turns the way I do on a DH bike. On my 170 bike that matters more than weight, even to me.
I want to qualify that I, personally, spec'd a 38 on my 170mm "do it all" enduro bike. I am reasonably quick, and I weigh close to 200 lbs. geared up. But I'd be lying to say that it made a dramatic difference off the 36 I had on my previous build.
Given that I have several friends who have sold off their carbon rims because they simply felt too stiff, I have to imagine that something similar holds true for the 38 vs. 36. Then again, it is nice to have a single fork that can easily handle both aggressive trails rides and park days. Regardless, they are heavy.
@DrPepperUltimate: its not their height, it's their weight that matters in this case, the forces that a 220lbs rider puts into components when cornering hard compared to a 130lbs rider is quite significantly different...
Pro riders, even the tall ones tend to be quite lean and strong (often being lighter) compared to most of us weekend warriors.
I do however realize that the speeds they ride at also increase the forces significantly...
@lelandjt: The 38 and Zeb do start to creak at the CSU as well as every Pike, Lyrik, 36, 34 does sooner or later under hard enough/dusty enough conditions.
At our repair shop a 38 was among the easiest to press out so it had one of the worst fits of all the steerers which we encountered.
The only long term cure is pressing it in with loctite instead of dry as the manufacturers do. Best to press it out right when you get it and press it back in with loctite. Because it only gets worse when you use it.
*This is not an official solution, it might void your warranty if they would find out*
I am thinking steering dampers will become a thing. My dirtbike has one and I can't imagine riding without it. It is one area mountain bikes can really improve on. It has saved me so many times from losing control after big hits.
Aren't they used for quelling front wheel shake (aka death wobble)? That's a very high speed phenomenon in motorcycles. The only time I can recall reading about a death wobble taking out a biker is during world-record high speed attempts down volcanoes and such-like.
But a motorbike front wheel has enough inertia to rip the bars out of your hands (or break your wrists) if it gets a good speed wobble going. Not a problem I've every really had on a mountain bike.
@WaterBear: On a motorcycle the steering damper doesn't stop wobble it stops tank slappers, they are bloody violent and can tear the bars clean out of your hands, I personally see zero need on a bicycle but I guess some people do.
@WaterBear: I've encountered it on a road bike, but it was at 50mph. It could have been from a cross wind too. Idk if it would ever happen on a mountain bike in the mountains
I would think for mtb enduro the largest benefit would be lessening the effect of glancing a tree. This can happen quickly on a moto when you clip a tree. This parabolic stabilizer has saved me taking a soil sample several times. It happens even faster on an mtb.
@WaterBear: another way you can use them is steepen up the head tube and keep the stability. So better slow speed maneuverability and keep the high speed stability
@Struggleteam: I can't count the amount of times I've saved my knuckles by purposefully pulling the bar with the impact of the tree instead of trying to ride through it. Would this device not make that harder?
@bikes-arent-real: I can’t really say how a device like this would work on a bicycle. On a dirt bike this unit basically causes the bars to not turn as quickly (rip out of your hands) when an abrupt impact happens. This makes your front wheel less likely to knife and you less likely to take a soil sample.
@Struggleteam: Yes, on any moto, you have the weight of the bike (which is usually more than the weight of the rider) that can push the bars around. Mountain bikes don't have this issue.
@hamncheez: Yes the moto is heavier but that weight adds stability whereas an mtb takes a knock to the bars and you are on the ground before you can blink. It's the same with taking a trip OTB. Much harder to do on a moto because of the weight and planted mass. The mtb will spit you out in a blink. Just look at nekos crash from yesterday.
@Struggleteam: I'm not talking about OTB. That is because the weight of the moto lowers your enitre CoG. I'm talking about what people are mentioning above- hitting a tree with your bars, sideways deflection of your tire from hitting a large rock, etc. Things that can quickly twist your handlebars.
@hamncheez: you don’t read very well do ya? I said it’s similar in that weight on the moto helps with both bar swap and going over the bars. The added weight makes the bike less twitchy when you glance a tree than on a 40 lb bicycle. You also have more time to react before the bars knife and you go down. However, on the moto you also the whisky throttle factor which can come into play and make you go places you don’t want to quickly. Regardless, stabilizer work well motos , I do think the stabilizer concept sense for dh and Enduro and that unit on the Nukeproof looks pretty streamlined. Fwiw I raced motos for 20 years and now I ride both Mtb’s and motos.
I keep wondering the same... I mean, for mortals I feel like between 2.4 and 2.6 and all the compounds/casings we're spoiled for choice... adding a 2.5 seems like a hassle and probably means a heap of SKUs, because it'll have at least a few casings/compounds and two diameters.
I suspect they'd use a 2.5 to pilot something new, case/compound/construction, or axe an existing size, if not both... why 2.4 and 2.5 when you can just run 2.5. If I where a Maxxis value chain guy, I'd be looking to streamline the product offering...
Cane Creek Viscoset is a different thing. Viscoset damps movement in both directions. A Hopey damper damps movement away from centre, but allows free movement back to centre. It also has some adjustment for the amount of damping.
@asapyohanes "A damper helps keep the bike tracking straight over difficult terrain such as ruts, rocks, and sand, and also smooths out jolts through the handlebars at the end of jumps. They also reduce arm fatigue by reducing the effort to control the handlebars." Found this on Wikipedia. They use them a lot in motorsports (motorcycles and dirtbikes notably). It's a device to take the harshness out of a lot of things in the steering.
They did a while ago actually, when they had one-piece calipers for some of their brakes. Then they went back to two-piece calipers. Seems like a step backwards.
@seraph: must have been too hard on the profit margins to crank out those monoblocs. i remember the ad (PB) copy on the two piece levels when they reintroduced them...total fake news
All the comments I’ve seen mentioning steering dampers on motorcycles have failed to mention that many of them had adjustment for high speed and low speed damping - similar to HS and LS on mtb suspension nothing to do with ground speed - and most would allow free return to straight head and only damp when turning
Ran various makes for a few years on different off-road bikes. Honda even had a steering damper as stock on some of their mx bikes for a few years.
Now as mx / off-road bike geometry has changed they’re not commonly seen anymore.
I predict the same happening with them in the mtb world
Interesting to see the updated rocker link on the Specialized Enduro.
I would suspect that Specialized will release a "new" version of the same basic layout for that bike this year. Similar to how they iterated the X-wing design for 6-7 years before a truly new bike. The current Enduro is still fully modern - but there is no reason they cannot further tweak the geo/kinematics. Plus, the current rear triangle doesn't accept the new Sram XO groupset - no chance Specialized is gonna let that roll for another season.
@DoctorWatson: Thanks man! I'm in the market for some new brakes, (replacing some Sram G2s), and I'm holding my breath for these to see if they're a worthy replacement.
I find it quite counter-intuitive that while I would never develop ML for cars because that's the main thing that kills cyclists ... I would even more never work on bike electronics.
@asapyohanes, they add resistance when you turn the handlebars - the goal is to add stability. With the Hopey dampers that used to be fairly common in the DH world, the hydraulic cartridge sat inside the steerer tube, and damped the steering when turning away from head tube.
A steering damper is a low-pass filter for your steering. It allows slower movements (normal steering) to pass, but attenuates (slows) the higher frequency movements. Typically these use a viscoelastic material for the attenuation / energy dissipation. They can be used to solve speed wobble issues (road bikes and motorsports), or to slow any rapid jolt to the steering system (any sort of impulse function input).
Exactly what it says on the tin. It's a damper attached to your bars. When they rotate in either direction it resists the motion, just like a damper on your fork or shock does.
@Tormy: you'd barely notice having one unless you needed it. in that case, it would provide some resistance to sudden movements in your steering. speed wobbles aren't (to my knowledge) a thing in mtb, but I could see some benefit given how much even recreational mtb speeds have picked up in recent years.
I'm selling all my old rusty headset bearings for anyone who wants added resistance to turn your handle bars.
Special deal if you want to take two sets.
But this new fan dangled headset cable routing is gonna cut into my market... bastards...
@shredddr: I had an epic case of speed wobbles on a steel hardtail back in the 90's riding down the Blue Ridge Parkway, but going 45 on a noodly bike with already twitchy handling wasn't my brightest move ever. I did briefly consider buying a Hopey damper after that, bought a new chamois instead.
128 Comments
The lies we tell ourselves are the ones that keep us up at night, probably explaining to our wives why we spent all the money on bike parts.
Mtb has gone the same way.
Given that I have several friends who have sold off their carbon rims because they simply felt too stiff, I have to imagine that something similar holds true for the 38 vs. 36. Then again, it is nice to have a single fork that can easily handle both aggressive trails rides and park days. Regardless, they are heavy.
What Geometry Numbers Do the Top Enduro Racers Actually Prefer?
m.pinkbike.com/news/what-geometry-numbers-pro-enduro-racers-prefer.html
- Interesting to see two guys over 180 cm prefer 36 to 38 fork.
Pro riders, even the tall ones tend to be quite lean and strong (often being lighter) compared to most of us weekend warriors.
I do however realize that the speeds they ride at also increase the forces significantly...
At our repair shop a 38 was among the easiest to press out so it had one of the worst fits of all the steerers which we encountered.
The only long term cure is pressing it in with loctite instead of dry as the manufacturers do.
Best to press it out right when you get it and press it back in with loctite. Because it only gets worse when you use it.
*This is not an official solution, it might void your warranty if they would find out*
I agree though %99 of riders don't need it and for %60 it may be a disadvantage
This video demonstrates it well.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFd-RcyO_3Y&t=21s
Yes my bars are too wide.
I prefer unscheduled trail maintenance.
www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/mountain-bike/a41755090/canyon-liteville-kis-bicycle-steering-stabilizer
Apples to oranges? You can't add this to a bike you already have, but it's the same idea?
I suspect they'd use a 2.5 to pilot something new, case/compound/construction, or axe an existing size, if not both... why 2.4 and 2.5 when you can just run 2.5. If I where a Maxxis value chain guy, I'd be looking to streamline the product offering...
Loved mine.
Ran various makes for a few years on different off-road bikes.
Honda even had a steering damper as stock on some of their mx bikes for a few years.
Now as mx / off-road bike geometry has changed they’re not commonly seen anymore.
I predict the same happening with them in the mtb world
I would suspect that Specialized will release a "new" version of the same basic layout for that bike this year. Similar to how they iterated the X-wing design for 6-7 years before a truly new bike. The current Enduro is still fully modern - but there is no reason they cannot further tweak the geo/kinematics. Plus, the current rear triangle doesn't accept the new Sram XO groupset - no chance Specialized is gonna let that roll for another season.
I see "Maven" but could be something else?
How does it compare to Canyon's KIS system, other than being integrated?
I wonder if either might have saved me from going down hard and fast from clipping a tiny tree that I didn't even see (at night) ?
Love to see it. Hopefully UCI bans this clippy pedal abomination sometime soon.
Love to see it. Hopefully UCI bans this clippy pedal abomination sometime soon.
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