DT Swiss XM 1501 Spline One 29 Wheels - Review

Jul 17, 2017 at 10:57
by Mike Levy  
DT Swiss XM 1501 Spline One 29 test review


DT Swiss' range of Spline One wheels encompasses thirteen different models that cover everything from cross-country to enduro racing, but all of them have one thing in common: increased rim width compared to the Swiss brand's previous offerings. Internal widths range from 22.5mm for the cross-country hoops, to a massive 40mm internal width for plus-sized rubber. The $1,261 USD XM 1501 Spline One 29 all-mountain wheels tested below sport a 30mm internal rim width, a number that should play nice with high-volume trail tires that have been proving to be so advantageous in so many settings.

XM 1501 Spline One Details

• Intended use: all-mountain / enduro
• Wheel size: 29''
• Rim width: 30mm (inner)
• Rim material: aluminum
• Spokes: 32, 3x
• Center Lock disc mount (adapters incl.)
• Incl. SRAM and Shimano freehubs
• Weight: 1,752-grams
• MSRP: $1,261 USD
www.dtswiss.com

DT Swiss XM 1501 Spline One 29 test review
The 30mm internal width is designed to work well with high-volume tires.


The XM 1501 Spline One 29 wheels are assembled with straight-pull spokes around DT Swiss' own hubs, as you'd expect, although it is a bit of a surprise that there's no six-bolt rotor mount option to choose from—it's Center Lock or nothing, with six-bolt adapters being included. The front wheel weighs 818-grams and the rear 934-grams on my scale, both sans Center Lock adapters, making for a 1,752-gram wheel set. That's not too shabby of a number given that there's no carbon fiber to be found here, the relatively wide rim design, and their enduro-ish intentions.



Design

As high-volume tires have grown in popularity due to the extra traction, speed, and forgiveness that they can provide, rim width has had to also grow accordingly. DT Swiss had been somewhat conservative about this in years past, but the debut of their Spline One range a few years ago changed that, with internal rim widths ranging from 22.5mm for their cross-country wheelset to a massive 40mm internal width for the largest option. The XM 1501 Spline One wheels that I've been spending my time on sport a 30mm internal width, which is wide enough to work well with both plus-sized rubber or just wide, standard tires.


DT Swiss XM 1501 Spline One 29 test review
The rim bed is shaped to make tire installation simple.
DT Swiss XM 1501 Spline One 29 test review
Take a close look at that nipple—it has a splined head and there's a washer between it and the rim bed.


The rim bed isn't sealed, but it does ship with rim tape installed, and DT Swiss say that they use a bead blasting method and "a very gentle anodizing process" that is claimed to up surface durability. In other words, fewer scratches, dings, and dents. The shape of the rim bed is also said to make going tubeless easier, as is the design of rim's sidewalls.

DT Swiss' Squorx Pro Head splined nipples are used, and a specifically shaped washer is placed between the inner rim bed and head of each nipple that's said to act as a sort of ball-joint while also distributing the forces through a larger area. Also, I just like to say ''Squorx" a lot. Squorx.


DT Swiss XM 1501 Spline One 29 test review
DT Swiss' Star Ratchet clutch requires no tools to access.


The hubs at the center of XM 1501 Spline One's are, of course, from DT Swiss, and the company says that the straight-pull shells are the lightest that they've ever machined. And as with most of DT Swiss' hubs, they can be had in Boost and non-Boost spacing; the end-caps are pushed on or removed by hand thanks to an interference fit using O-rings, a system that means no tools are required to swap between Shimano and SRAM freehub bodies or to give the guts some love. Internally, you'll find a 36-point engagement Star Ratchet clutch inside the rear hub that provides 10-degrees of engagement.


DT Swiss XM 1501 Spline One 29 test review
DT Swiss XM 1501 Spline One 29 test review
With only four moving parts—the two Star Wheels and two springs—the Star Ratchet system is about as simple as it gets.




Performance

The XM 1501 Spline One wheels have been designed for a spot of rowdy riding and that's exactly what they saw, but first I needed to mount up some rubber. I used three different types of tires while I had the XMs on my bike: a set of 2.2'' wide Vittoria Gato tires that weren't really wide enough but that I wanted to try on the DT wheels out of curiosity (they still worked well due to their round cross-section); a set of burly Vittoria Mota tires that are most definitely well suited to the XM 1501 Spline Ones; and a set of equally stout Continental Der Baron 2.4'' Projekt tires.


Staff Rides - Mike Levy s Rocky Mountain Element
The 30mm internal width is ideal for high-volume 2.4'' wide tires.


All three sets went on and seated up without any drama, so there's probably something to DT Swiss' claims that the rim bed shape helps to make this often messy job a rather easy one to get through. The 30mm internal rim width and the support that it provides allows for some seriously low tire pressures, especially if the terrain kept my speed down; as low as 17psi for the Der Barons, and 20psi for the much lighter duty Gatos. Going a few psi below those numbers didn't result in burps and spraying sealant, which is a good sign, but rather just the vague feeling of a tire's casing folding over. Zero burps.

One thing I was expecting was a dent or two by now given the relatively low pressures, especially on the rear rim, but there isn't even a hint of any direct contact with the ground. This, despite me knowing for a fact that I bottomed the rear tire and rim on the ground a handful of times. I did throw the rear wheel on the truing stand once, after about three weeks of use, just to touch up roughly 2mm of run out; tension for both the front and rear has held well.


DT Swiss XM 1501 Spline One 29 test review
DT Swiss XM 1501 Spline One 29 test review
DT Swiss' hubs are trouble-free, but the Center Lock rotor mounts aren't ideal. I'd prefer standard six-bolt rotor mounting.


I ran the XM 1501 Spline One wheels back-to-back with a set of Stan's Arch MK3 rims laced up with 32 spokes. There's a very obvious difference between the Spline One wheels and the Arch MK3s on the trail, with the former feeling more precise, stiffer all around, and allowing for slightly lower tire pressures due to the 4mm of added rim width. Both wheelsets are made for the same kind of riding, but I'd pick the XM 1501 Spline One wheels every time given the chance.

I've always been a big fan of DT Swiss' hubs, largely because of how easy it is to swap freehub bodies or clean and grease the Star Ratchet system, and it's no different with these newer straight-pull flange hubs. Everything comes apart with a firm pull, and it all simply pushed back together by hand as well. The stock configuration is the 36-point engagement Star Ratchet clutch that was flawless for me, and I'd prefer that over the much finer 54-point engagement Star Ratchet that I've seen strip out more than just a few times, especially when used with all of these new, massive bailout cogs that are so popular. The hub bearings aren't spinning quite as smoothly after a few months of use as they were out of the box, but I wouldn't jump in there for maintenance any time soon—they're far from needing any attention. One thing that I'm not a fan of is the Center Lock rotor mounts that allow the adapters to rock ever so slightly in the splines—this is annoying.

As trouble-free as the Spline One wheels were for me, I do find myself looking at their $1,261 USD price with a raised eyebrow. The performance is there, no doubt about that, and their 1,752-gram weight is impressive when you factor in the 30mm internal width, even against many carbon fiber wheel sets. There are, however, other aluminum wheels out there that cost much less and weigh marginally more. Your money, your call.


Pinkbike's Take:
bigquotesDT Swiss has always had a sort of 'all business, no flash' approach to their products, so much so that they're probably overlooked by some riders. I think that's also true of the XM 1501 Spline One wheels; they simply do the job without any fuss or drama. If there's one type of component that you want to say that about, it's probably going to be your wheels. Mike Levy






Author Info:
mikelevy avatar

Member since Oct 18, 2005
2,032 articles

137 Comments
  • 62 28
 I can't believe what I'm reading in regards to center lock vs bolt on disc brakes.

Just unbelievable.

Center locks are faster to install and uninstall. They secure the rotors perfectly and I've never had any issues whatsoever not to mention it's lighter than having 6 (x2) bolts.

Seriously, center locks are better.
  • 23 12
 Its probably people that have not used them that dont like them, like people that hate 29er wheels because they 'look gay' or something equally stupid.
  • 41 6
 Its the play that annoys me!
  • 6 4
 I agree center lock is simpler and better. I bought some cool looking hope discs for my new bike, but then not only had to put in the 6 x 2 hex bolts, but there was still a noise after adjusting the pads to fit. It took a while to figure out, but I also needed to file down the the rivet attachments on the inside of the disc where the actual rotor attaches to their centerpiece which was rubbing on the inside of my front shox... next time I will go back to the center lock rotors for sure.
  • 7 5
 @Scotj009: you shouldnt be getting any play with a decent rotor / hub combination, is the lock-ring tightening down correctly / does it have a thin stainless washer?
  • 8 4
 Confirmation bias much? you haven't had problems /= they don't cause problems.
  • 2 0
 @Racer951: Ah hey dude, Yes and yes, OEM dt wheels and slx rotors
  • 2 0
 @Racer951: I have added a thin plastic washer as recommended by Dt swiss and Motorex high quality grease for the elements, no problem on mine.
  • 1 0
 @Scotj009: That must be annoying, it sounds like it is tightening on the hub before squeezing the rotor down - see if you can get a very thin spacer and try it with that (like enrico650 did)
  • 1 0
 Worth a shot, thanks man Fab
  • 5 1
 Mike's blaming the adapter for the play.
  • 8 1
 @Racer951: Agreed. I've found no more play in Centerlock than in ISO. There is always a very slight amount of play - whether it be the rotor interface, the pads, the caliper, the axle, the fork bushings...etc. I've never seen a bike that had no play whatsoever when you hit the front brake. I am intimately familiar with this topic because I am extremely OCD about it.

Centerlock is a vastly superior interface that should have been adopted across the MTB industry years ago.
  • 2 0
 @Scotj009: By the way, DT swiss should provide the plastic washers for those of you who want to run the DT swiss adapters.
I also used a park tool b.b. tool (the one that looks like long skinny cone wrench) because is very thin and offers the best leverage
  • 5 1
 I only buy centerlock hubs, that system is the best!
  • 2 3
 Ive had bolts seize and require drilling out on an old set of wheels so I am pro-centerlock. The only thing I hate about them is the BB tool. I dont have a BB tool, none of my friends have a BB tool, my new bike is pressfit so I have no use for one, and they arent exactly cheap. Cassette tools on the other hand are 5 bucks and every bike needs one. Unfortunately it seems that most wheels come with the BB tool nut instead of the cassette tool version.
  • 10 1
 @LiquidSpin

"Center locks are faster to install and uninstall. They secure the rotors perfectly and I've never had any issues whatsoever not to mention it's lighter than having 6 (x2) bolts."

1. OK, they're faster to install and uninstall. And how many times do you do that in a ride? In a year? Exactly.

2. Lighter, quite possibly, but it might be close. Nonetheless, the average rider doesn't care about a bike that is 5 grams heavier because we don't race WC's.
  • 5 4
 @CaptainSnappy:

Here let me just end this right now.

There are people out there who enjoy buying bike frames and building them up. There are people out there who enjoy buying multiple wheel sets and like building them.

Then there are those who work on bikes. They are called bike mechanics. Maybe you've heard of them or maybe even met a bike mechanic before? Please ask which one they would prefer to install.

Anything that makes like easier and works is a win in my book.
  • 18 3
 @LiquidSpin: I'm a mechanic, I work in a shop, I prefer the 6 bolt, simple!
  • 9 2
 @LiquidSpin: I know literally zero mechanics who like centerlock better. & I know at least 15.
  • 9 1
 @Scotj009: Another mechanic here. Everyone in our shop runs and prefers 6 bolt. Simple and solid. Centerlocks aren't bad, but they do develop noticeable play over time and require tightening. Also can't imagine that they could possibly be lighter, except maybe on floating rotors.
  • 5 3
 Centrelock sucks because it forced 15x100, which killed 20x110, which then meant 15x110 boost. So, kindly, centrelock can suck a D.
  • 4 5
 @LiquidSpin: who cares what is easy on a mechanic? The simple solution is to ask race teams, DH and EWS, what they run. They can choose either, so if there is an overwhelming preference for 6 bolt, all these centerlock fans are just lazy and using what's easiest, not best. If the teams use centerlock, then PB needs to stop always complaining about the play and install them correctly. Simple.
  • 2 0
 @HommeDeBatte: funny. . . . We got a few 20 x 110 centerlock front wheels. . . . . . !
  • 1 0
 @zooey: Yeah exactly. Mike seems to obviously prefer 6-bolt but didn't say that centrelock is crap. I used to have a set of Mavic wheels that had DT centrelock adaptors and they had a small amount of play even if the lock ring was properly tightened. The issue seemed to be that the studs that stand in for the bolts were slightly too small for the holes in the rotor, so it had about a degree of play after fitment. Can't say I ever noticed it in use though..
  • 4 0
 Centre lock discs rock!

Err, but not sadly in the rock'n'roll sense. They actually rock, no matter how much you (over) tighten them
  • 1 0
 I will say that I have had to torque the crud out of center locks and still had them come loose on me, in comparison to 6 bolt, which, once torqued, never have issues. Anyone tried blue loctite on CL?
  • 3 0
 @LiquidSpin: Here, let me end this right now.

There are some people who really like Centrelock. They feel the system is lighter and easier to work on. For them, this is a reality. For them, it's the best choice.

Then, there are those who prefer 6-bolt systems. They feel more comfortable with the redundancy of having multiple anchor points, they trust the system, they don't mind the extra weight, or don't agree centrelock is lighter. For them, this is also a reality. For them, its the best choice.

Anything that makes the person whose bike it is happier is a win for that person.
  • 1 0
 @VwHarman: Is CL lighter? Does someone have examples?

Out of curiosity I compared SLX 180mm discs recently : CL166g, 6b 138g+12g bolts.
Is the CL hub at least 16g lighter?

I don't have a preference btw, just annoyed that I can't just swap discs freely between wheels (yeah , adapters, I know).
  • 1 0
 @VwHarman: Coming back at this (currently choosing CL discs or CL adapters to put discs on new CL hubs).

I forgot, with the 166g discs (180mm SLX centerlock), there's also the 18g lockring.
That's 184g.
6 bolt disc with bolts : 138+12 so 150g.

Is the CL hub more than 34g lighter ? I doubt it. Maybe my example is not representative...

Anyway, I'll go for adapters (25g I think) which will still be lighter and I can use all my discs how I want.
  • 2 0
 @Uuno: Jesus this was ages ago lol
  • 29 5
 For all the flash out there, DT still makes the best hubs on the market.
  • 10 17
flag auzb (Jul 18, 2017 at 6:24) (Below Threshold)
 I like them but I have the feeling that Hopes roll much smoother...
  • 10 0
 The best? You must mean the simplest. It completely depends on what criteria one values highest; mass, engagement, craftsmanship, price, serviceability, etc.
On one bike I have Shimano XT. 10 degree engagement and proper centerlock (no slop) and INEXPENSIVE. On another Onyx= unfettered performance and beauty.
DT swiss is on the roadie since i don't want to maintain it very often, but I still like the precise feel of its engagement mechanism.
  • 4 4
 Personally I have had some trouble with the star ratchet (HUGI hubs). It was not durable enough.
  • 3 0
 @b1k35c13nt15t: I rate a product on how it performs, not how it looks, similar to the motor in my car the look of it is pointless. Mass increase is minimal compared to superlight hubs, not a concern for most hard riders not trying to win the UCI XC championship (although many champs run DT hubs). Engagement can be high with the high engagement ring option. Craftmanship is a somewhat useless term for mass produced product like hubs (marketing loves the term though) as it connotates handmade or small scale production , but on the note of quality DT is second to none. Price is lower than most high end competition. Service intervals are very low, ask UCI mechanics what their experience with DT hubs have been like. all things considered, it's hard to beat DT hubs for performance.
  • 3 0
 @auzb: I don't, having owned both. The seals on the Hopes make the drag higher IMO.
  • 4 1
 @b1k35c13nt15t: Agreed. DT Swiss aren't the worst you can buy, but there's a lot of brands I'd spend money on first. The fact that even the review acknowledges that their high engagement ratchet isn't durable is a testament to that. Hope Pro 4s are comparable in price, have quicker engagement, & are bulletproof, for instance.

& unlike Mike Levy, I've seen more than just the 52 tooth star ratchets fail: I've been there for 36t failures as well.
  • 3 0
 @groghunter: I broke 4 sets of pro2 freehub assemblies due to the weaker steel used from pervious. The pro4 increases the size of bearings minimally, but the problems still exist in terms of the assembly itself relying on tolerance stackup to not bind the bearings. I've broken every rear hub I've owned with the exception of King and DT, albeit I haven't owned them all.

I heard the knockoff rings were an issue but I haven't heard anything about the DT rings yet. Seen a few failures but seemed pretty rare compared to how many pawl, bearing, seal failures I've seen on other hubs (King notwithstanding, they seem to hold up great).
  • 4 0
 @atrokz: Seeing as both Olympic golds last year were on DT last year, I think weight is a moot point.
  • 4 2
 @atrokz: I have seen more DT hubs fail than any brand when considering OEM parts. The DT brand star ratchet teeth dent and chip when they don't get full engagement. Also the springs in OEM DT hubs are often too weak causing partial engagement and similar issues. Their very common hub problems stem from weak springs in my opinion. They wouldn't have sent us a big bag of stronger springs if this weren't a problem....
  • 3 0
 @takeiteasyridehard: Back when I was mech'ing (03-08 ) I recall being told by DT that certain greases had to be used or the teeth wouldn't engage properly and could chip. Wonder how many cases that is tied to. Interesting on the springs. My experience on working on them was up till about '10 with zero issues other than a few failed rings that had dirty grease inside indicating they were never maintained. Very interesting to hear, I wonder if just strong springs and proper lube would alleviate the issues, as every other mechanic I've asked about hubs love the DTs it seems, but we maintain our stuff more I guess. would be a shame if the process went downhill (HT and mfg method of the splines need to ensure no crack propagation) as they were the more reliable hubs around. What's left in that price bracket for a large (230-240lbs) and powerful guy, my experience with hope has been horrid and I've broken tons of hubs.
  • 1 1
 @takeiteasyridehard: & it's those lighter springs that make DTs feel less draggy than Hopes, not seals as @SwintOrSlude says. lighter springs means less drag from the ratchet. even with stronger springs, though, star ratchets don't drive dirt out of the teeth like a standard ratchet does. heck, they don't even have enough pressure to clear grease out, which is why they say to lube them with oil instead.

Oil belongs in a sealed casing, like it is on your car. if your mechanism requires an oil bath, but cant be sealed to provide it, your design is fundamentally flawed.
  • 1 1
 @atrokz: it's not even a maintenance interval issue. I've been replacing the springs on 1/3 of the new trek hubs after they sound weird during my test rides. These are the pawl designs, not star ratchet. But the star ratchets on anyone over 200 lbs that rides, has been blowing up ratcheting rings. Could be production shifted to inferior supplier's to match demand. Idk. I do remember the days when they were reliable. They just simply are not now. As far as what I'd reccommend...idk. If you're a big guy hard on hubs, spend more and get king...I've had good luck on my atomlabs, but not everyone does, and their freehub material is soft if you're on shimano cassette, not xd....xd and I would try atomlabs for similar pricepoint. Shimano, maybe try I9, they seem OK. Or upgrade to king.
  • 1 0
 @takeiteasyridehard: damn, that's not good news! I was going to get a 240 or 350 for my next wheelset.
  • 1 0
 I would take Project 321 hubs over anything else on the market !
  • 1 0
 @RollinFoSho: yeah the magnetic or sprag clutch hubs are sweet. 321, onyx, there's another one I forgot. A guy I know who's large and rides hard has 321 and loves them...
  • 3 0
 IME and that of people I ride with, the higher end DT stuff is about as bulletproof as it gets.

I still have an old 240S that must be 8 years old now, it's been on countless bikes, re-rimmed endlessly & it's had one set of bearings in its life.

I would always go for a DT hub out of choice. Light & reliable - easily adaptable. They just work.
  • 21 3
 Centerlovk is great for shimano freeza disks, and also to be able to remose rapidly the disk when travelling, to prevent bending them.
  • 24 10
 They are great until your OCD detects the play they have when engaging the brakes... the end of the world..
  • 5 4
 Dr swiss used to name their wheelsets by their weight.
So, I call this: False advertisement.
  • 2 1
 @Lagr1980: If they are tighten than there is no play, unless rivets that are holding steel part to aluminium spider are loosen. Only play that i see on largest bikes that I service are pads that are moving in the caliper. I use ordinary Sram Centerline rotors with DT adapter on centerlock intrface with E1700 wheels for 2 seasons and I only had front rotor getting loose in the begining of use two years ago, tighten it up and not a problem since.
  • 1 0
 @enrico650: Yup my e1700 29 wheels are almost 2 kilo Big Grin
  • 3 0
 Also centerlock allows you to run six bolt with adapters, so you're never stuck with old rotors that don't fit your hub...
  • 17 2
 Jesus. I can build a set of Bicycle Hub Store hubs (54 POE) laced to Stans rims for $400-500. They can be made within 50 grams of the weight of this wheel. You then have over $500 to lose 50 grams on your bike and still come out ahead.

This shit is getting ridiculous.
  • 3 2
 50 grams of rotational weight though....you'd have to lose it at the tire to make the same difference. Rotational weight grows as you accelerate. ...stem or static part weight doesnt....
  • 2 2
 @takeiteasyridehard: Yeah, but at the most the accelerating weight on the wheel counts as double. So were talking 100 grams in a 90,000 gram system.
  • 3 1
 Don't forget the fact that unlike carbon you don't feel like you've got to run a foam insert to protect your wheels, allowing for a cheap lightweight allow wheel build to be very comparable to a carbon with foam inserts.
  • 3 2
 Ooooh, cheese rims and wedding band hub bearings! Sign me up!
  • 4 0
 You can build pretty much the same spec wheels as the ones reviewed for way cheaper if you shop around. Not sure why DT Swiss charges so much for their complete wheels. My next wheels will be 481 & 511 rims on 350 hubs with Competition spokes for around €400.
  • 3 0
 @Lornholio: yep, these look to be DT's XM481 rims. You can easily build up a set of these with 350 hubs for under $600 in the USA. i have a set and i'm very happy with them. light and strong.

heck, even if you paid a wheel builder instead of doing it yourself, it would still come out way cheaper than buying this spline wheelset. why do people pay those prices?
  • 1 0
 @takeiteasyridehard: I'm sure with some creative spoke selection I could drop the 50 grams, if that really matters to you.
  • 2 0
 @y0bailey: I don't really care, I was simply pointing out the difference between weight at the exterior of your wheels, versus other parts of the bike, and the effect is has. Rotational weight matters to me...but 50g is pretty minimal.
  • 5 0
 @xeren: it's to increase perceived value for OE spec bikes that have Spline wheelsets...
  • 1 0
 @Klainmeister: that's probably it. i wonder how many of these they actually sell as standalone sets, not on bikes? it can't be many
  • 2 0
 @xeren: Very few, but then you notice that Yeti and many other high end brands all run these Spline wheelsets and it makes sense.
  • 1 0
 @xeren: I got my 2016 pair XM1501 29" for 346euros including shipping. The same wheels but 27.5" could be bought for 250euros. That is just the price of the rear 240s hub. Just have to search for deals.
  • 1 0
 You can build them up yourself for less money, butnyou don't get the cool graphics.

Therefore, the cool graphics are worth €500.

Have any of you guys tried the xr361 yet? I am tempted by a pair for long trail days. At 80kg, should I be looking at the xm421 instead?
  • 1 0
 @jaame: i'd personally go for the xm421 over the xr361. if only because of the rim width. i doubt i could ever go back to a narrow rim
  • 5 0
 I see these wheels on bike-components.de (German site) for about 700 Euro - so like $800 USD. At that price they are an absolute steal. Take advantage of your strong currency, bloody yanks.
  • 6 2
 My only complaint is that the graphics on these wheels would make thses wheels look pretty terrible on my bike and I assume they cannot be removed as they are some kind of transfer and not a decal.
  • 2 0
 IMO they look absolutly ok. Pretty average design.
  • 2 3
 I agree. Their hubs and rims have horrible decals, in my opinion. Not classy at all. That being said, I do use their RWS axles, and spokes. Very nice.
  • 3 0
 @IluvRIDING: Im not saying they are ugly, not at all, just that on certain bikes the graphics-heavy looks in red just wont look very good - my own bike for example.
  • 9 5
 You can buy a set of Chris king wheels from their website for $999 with a much better hub and you would get to pick your own rim, Stans MK-3 or Race Face Arc30, why would anyone buy these?
  • 5 1
 Much better hub? Better at what? Being heavy & unreliable? CK hubs are junk if you ride anywhere near mud.
  • 6 0
 10 degrees of engagement, yikes, I'll stick with my Industry Nine Enduro 305's which have proven to be very nice so far.
  • 7 3
 That is a lot of dinero for a pair of aluminum wheels. You can totally get a set of stans flows mated to king hubs for less than that!
  • 5 2
 Which would weigh a tonne more, and be less reliable...
  • 2 0
 If the decals aren't in your taste you could build this equivalent wheelset (more or less) out of their catalog of parts for a bit cheaper (if you laced then yourself), if you go the German online retailer route. And you can choose 6 bolt and J bend if you so desire;-)
  • 1 0
 Lets see:
DT Swiss XM 401 same rim as here
DT Swiss nipple and spoke
Novatec hubs 29 point engagement
weight 1640 g
Price 220 eur
Yes it can be done CHEAP and after 1 year all mountain riding and some BP everything works great
  • 1 0
 DT Swiss XM 401 has 22,5mm internal width... these has 30mm internal.. So they are probably XM 481..
  • 5 0
 Is it the same rim as the XM481 with different stickers?
  • 1 0
 Either that or an Ex511.
  • 4 0
 @panaphonic: They are the XM481, the EX511 are on the EX wheel sets
  • 2 0
 @mfoga: Cheers, I just came back to correct myself after reading up on them.
  • 3 0
 I wonder what the difference is between the XM481 and the EX511 rims. Looks like the width is the same and the cross section pics look really similar on the DT site. I've been smashing the hell out of a set of 28h XM481's on 350 hubs this season and they have been flawless and needed nothing. I thought I might want carbon but if it ain't broke...
  • 2 0
 @Speeder01: From what I've read, the ex511 has a thicker section than the xm481. This is reflected in their weights.
  • 1 0
 @Speeder01: yep, i've been really really happy with the XM481's - they've needed basically no truing since i built them.

i only wish they were asymmetrical. dt swiss is starting to do that on their road rims, they need to get on it for mtb, where i would argue it's even more important
  • 2 1
 For f***'s sake, do you people change so many discs that the ease of removing them is a major issue?!
The last time I saw CL discs where vibrating like... well a vibrator, had to change the wheel because the splines on the hub were f***ed
  • 3 0
 I'm curious how these new big bailout gears would cause the star teeth to strip more than using the 22T on a triple. Torque is torque and gear-inches are gear-inches.
  • 2 0
 Good point.
  • 1 0
 Had XM1501's for 3 years and have been by far the best wheel's I've had - no play, still spin well and until about 3 weeks ago hadn't had a ding or warp in the rim (I hit a nasty rock which split the tyre and dinged the rim). The only thing I will say is the spokes have started to come slightly loose and need a tighten up -but after 3 years that ain't bad.
  • 1 0
 On a slightly different topic;
Why straight pull vs the traditional J bend spokes?
I know they are more expensive. Is there any advantage other than weird looking hubs?
I would appreciate opinions on experience...
  • 6 3
 Because the "J" where the spoke is bent becomes a weak or flex point on the spoke. The spoke can also shift slightly in the hub, as it's just run through a hole in the flange. The nipple where it threads onto the spoke is also a flex point. A straight pull spoke eliminates the J so it has one less (two if you count the movement in the hub flange) flex point and can generally be run at a slightly higher tension to increase stiffness as well. This is why the I-9 wheels with their one piece alloy spokes are so great, they eliminate two flex points using a spoke that's lighter and stiffer than a steel one. This gives them a not only a lower static weight, but a lower rotational weight as well. I don't know why anyone bothers with expensive carbon rims when the alloy spoke I-9's with an alloy rim are just as stiff, if not stiffer than any J bend carbon hoop wheel.
  • 6 0
 technically, putting a bend in a spoke weakens it. but all the disadvantages of straight pull, especially the silly pricing & limited hub availability, counteract any benefit, which is why you only really see them on house built wheelsets, & wheelbuilders generally avoid them.

Besides, when was the last time you saw a spoke broken at the bend? weakening a part only matters if you've weakened it below the strength it needs to hold the load placed on it, & that doesn't seem to be true of J-bend spokes.
  • 2 1
 @groghunter:

About 6 times a year ...
  • 3 0
 @mollow: compared to how many nipple or threaded section failures? IME, far more common than failures at the bend.
  • 2 1
 @groghunter: I see spokes broken at the bend like 50% of the time when there's a broken spoke.
  • 1 0
 Occasionally we've seen spoke windup issues with straight pull spokes. If there's too much friction at the threads or the tension is too high the straight pull spoke head can spin in the hub. Straight pull spokes also require more time when building wheels. When they're slack they can, again, spin in the hub. Not really a huge deal but you have to take a little extra care to make sure you're working each spoke evenly.
  • 2 0
 @groghunter:

All of my broken spokes have broken at the bend. Road and mountain.
  • 1 1
 @SJP: Well, TIL. I've actually never seen one, most common for me has been alloy nipple, followed by mangled due to chain shifting over the largest cog (more often in the past, haven't seem one in a while) followed by Threads.
  • 3 0
 sooo, what I'm gathering from the opinions I have read about J bend vs straight is stick with J bend! I have never broken a spoke. I always break the rim before I break a spoke. Also, as I prefer to build my own wheels, J bend is easier and more affordable...the spinning of the spoke seems really annoying. Thanks
  • 1 0
 @FunctionalMayhem: If you build your own, it's no question, really: brands make it extremely toxic to try to build straight pull wheels at a shop/home. they remain the purview of factory wheels due to pricing considerations if nothing else.
  • 1 1
 @groghunter: I prefer to build my wheels using DT Alpine III spokes. Compared to DT Competition, these are thicker near the hub (2.3mm instead of 2.0mm) and add about 9g of weight because of that (near the hub, obviously). I think it is well worth it. I've broken quite a few Competition spokes near bend, but never an Alpine spoke. Slight downside is that (at least in Shimano hubs) they fit real tight so lacing is slightly slower. Not much of an issue I'd say but as apparently the speed at which a disc brake rotor can be mounted is a thing, this should be mentioned here as well. Mind you that Alpine spokes take standard nipples, which is good. After I wrecked my first mountain unicycle rim, I thought it would be clever to use 2.3mm (full length) spokes for me next wheel. I was surprised to find the supplied nipples did fit my standard (black Park) spoke tool. After a couple of rides I cracked a spoke nipple.

Lesson (or TLBig Grin R if you wish): 2.3mm near the J bend is good, 2.3mm at the nipple is bad.
  • 2 0
 @groghunter: i've built up a set of wheels on straight pull hubs that i already owned, and i was surprised how easy it was. i especially like that the hub essentially angles the spokes for you during threading, so there's very little "okay, now count 4 holes away and insert the next spoke" etc.

and as long as you put pressure in the middle of the spoke while tightening, they don't really spin on you

all that said, i still wouldn't go out of my way to buy a straight pull hub, just based on spoke availability and cost alone. but if you own one already, it's really not so bad
  • 2 0
 @xeren: Yup, relaced an I9 wheel, wasn't the end of the world, but their spokes make steel straight pull look cheap. Never would I spend over $250 on spokes, it's insane.
  • 1 0
 @groghunter: Saying it weakens it is a bit of a misnomer. It opens the door to fatigue failure IF the elbow flexes enough times. That is why J bend elbows should be "set" during the build and proper tensions should be used. Straight pull spokes also fatigue at this point and break. There isn't an advantage one over the other for properly tensioned wheels.
  • 2 0
 @JohanG: Hmmmm, maybe that's why I've never seen it. Setting the spokes & dewinding them at the end of a build is something I pay a great deal of attention to.
  • 4 0
 Any review of any 27'5 bike or part? Nothing? Dead?
  • 1 1
 Seems to me that the article is wrong on the center less only. I own 2 sets of EX 1501 (1 in 25 and 1 in 30) and both in 6 bolts IS. Same choice available for XM. This said it s definetly the best wheels i ever tried. Not only for the hub but above all for the rim. DT rims are the only one i use that don t get dented after few rides. Frankly most high end hubs perform well. That s the truing and the rim that makes the difference. The EX471 is a reference for that. Ask Aaron...
  • 1 0
 @Mike Levy:
what's your weight?
at 85 kg ("fully armed"), been thinking about going for the narrower (25mm) ex1501 on the rear, and the xm1501 up front (for durability or should i say dent prevention)
What's your take?
  • 3 4
 And if 36 points of engagement ain't enough for you, you have some aftermarket choice. 48 poe ratchets are pretty cheap on ebay those days, and if it's not enough for you DT Swiss makes some 54poe ratchets for Bontrager but they are nowhere cheap!
  • 3 0
 I have DT hubs on both my 2 MTBs and my road bike, love them, but just serviced the freewheel of the roadbike (after 7000km). Some of the teeth are slightly chipped (but nowhere near being non-functional), so I'm a bit reluctant to have smaller teeth taking the torque (which is probably even higher on a MTB).
  • 2 0
 @SwintOrSlude: At the shop we have replaced the 54 ratchet engagement for the 36's more than we like to admit.
Some riders out there have some insane pulling and the torque is just to much for the 54's
  • 2 3
 And if 54 POE ain't enough for you, get yerself some Project 321 hubs with 144 POE or an optional 216!
  • 1 0
 Similar dimensions to the SRAM Roam 60 carbon wheels reviewed here recently. Similar weight. Not so similar price. DT Swiss is at the top of the wheel game these days.
  • 6 4
 that center lock will go great with my new set of mechanical disc brakes
  • 3 2
 28 hole DT build stiffer than a 32h Stan's crest mk 3 build! DT is killing it with their product right now.
  • 2 1
 Mechanical incompetent should stay away from torx tools or otherwise
  • 1 1
 Nice review. The straight pull spokes are regrettable but everything else looks posh.
  • 3 2
 lol @ Squorx
  • 2 0
 It's actually a great feature when you're building wheels because it means you won't damage the coating on black nipples during the build.
  • 2 0
 FYI I made my own Squorx drill bit by filing down the shoulder of a T25 aluminium bolt until it fit in the holes.
  • 2 2
 Center lock only with 6 bolt adapters...G.F.Y.
  • 2 1
 *yawn* Next please.
  • 1 3
 I literally just bought a set of Stans Flow mk3 wheels, how do these compare? Seems like they might be the most direct competitor.
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