PINKBIKE FIELD TEST
6 Downcountry Bikes VS the Efficiency Test
Words by Mike Levy; photography by Tom RichardsLook, I know that most of us are here for the good stuff, whatever kind of fun singletrack descent that might be, not some boring-ass gravel road climb that's too steep, too loose, and definitely too long. But the reality is that most of us have to pedal up the mountain, hopefully on a trail rather than a road, and while many riders are just happy to get to the top, others want to get there a little sooner. That's where bikes like our six short-travel rigs can make the difference between, "Never again!" and "Let's do another lap."
Efficiency Test Results
1st Allied BC40 - 2:34
2nd BMC Fourstroke LT - 2:35
3rd Ibis Exie - 2:35 (Tied w/ BMC for 2nd)
4th Lapierre XRM - 2:37
5th RSD Wildcat - 2:42
6th Evil Following - 2:44
But while all six are going to be pretty good at ascending, some or more good than others, which is why I grunted my way up yet another terrible climb while the stopwatch was running. At the end of the day, it was Allied's 120mm-travel BC40 that was quickest over the same distance and with the same watts put to the pedals as the others, with the BMC and Ibis' new Exie tied for the runner-up spot just one second behind.
170 Comments
You can dish it, but can you take it?
peace
(Awesome DH though!!)
My Following was so much more painful at climbing that I reviewed the marketing material again and didn't see anything glorifying its climbing ability. There were clips of riders pushing it though. It certainly had a DH sled feel to it when pointed down though!
This is a kind of a dumb test, literally splitting hairs with a one second difference over a two minute climbs doesn't hold water. If you pick a bike for climbing gravel roads fast, it's not gonna bean Evil, but if you climb a gravel road to go down a single track, an Evil is gonna be a better choice.
When I climb gravel, it's just to get to and from single track.
But what isn’t measured is how much effort you are putting in to generate those 300 watts. A non ideal position on the bike, and anything you are doing beyond spinning the pedals, including steering and balancing, are costing you energy and in the real world is going to tire you out more, whether racing for money or chasing your buddy.
All full suspension bikes just move their rear wheel through a specified arc (path), and push on a spring at different rates at different points of the wheel's journey.
Nowadays in these comments, you've gotta do better than "moves better and easier" or if you do, back it up with objective data.
And this test is exactly how an efficiency test should be run; they run an abbreviated simulation and then interpolate the data to span across x metric.
Oi. I feel like I just fell for a troll's clickbait.
What Evil bikes did you have?
My Evil offering (140mm) pedals very well, especially during standing pedaling (which to me is important, others my prioritize other attributes).
Compared to my old Transition Scout (125mm) it pedals a lot better. Compared to my even older Ibis HDR (135mm) and the Ibis Ripmo (145mm) I demoed it's almost as good seated and about the same during standing sprints.
I think people often have different opinions on which bike pedals well, and it probably has a lot to do with how you pedal your bike. To me, most bikes pedals ok while seated, but some really suck when standing up which sort of kills my motivation
Heart-Wannabe Canadian
I had a V1 following. It peddled about the same as my 170mm YT Capra V1!
Then I had a Offering V1, which pedalled about the same as the following. It wasn’t aweful, but was disappointing for a 140mm bike. I demoed a pivot switchblade at the same time and that was night and day better, as was the Intense Primer v1 I moved to.
I also demoed a wreckoning (v1) and that was a right dog at climbing.
But people don’t buy evils to climb on, they have slack actual seat angles. they do pedal very well out of the saddle, very firm platform.
The following was so so at decending, the offering was great. With a push 11-6 the suspension was something special, one of those rare ‘stars aligning’ moments. I’ve had quite a few bikes since and not many have felt as special as that ‘pushed’ offering.
We agree on the out of saddle pedaling and downhill traits at least
As mentioned I probably have relatively smooth pedaling, and as such is less sensitive to seated pedaling.
I'm also barely 5'9 (on low gravity days), and as such not that affected by the seat tube angle, though I did prefer it in the high mode (but I run it in low to get a low and nice BB with my 150mm fork).
I've been considering switching it to high mode and putting a 140mm fork and a -1 angleset on there to get similar geo with steeper seat tube angle.
Would love to try a v3 following. But since brexit Evils have gone from ‘competitive’ to ‘super expensive’ due to them being imported into spain first.
The evil following v3 frameset is now £3800 / $4400 dollars including taxes.
My evil following v1 cost me £2600 years ago. And I picked up my v1 offering direct from spain before brexit for £1.9k in a black friday sale.
I have never, and will never finish a pro race on the lead lap. But I have plenty of "finish" results!
www.gofundme.com/f/alicia-and-her-family-with-medical-costs
"Folks who donate $5 or more (including all previous donors) to Alicia's GoFundMe campaign before November 25th will be entered to win a Faction II of their choosing. You pick the color and size. We will randomly select a winner from the donor list, so feel free to insert your support and name more than once."
The F-up part is the need for all this money. Healthcare should be at the heart's interest of the nation.
Besides that, it would be cool to see Levy sweating up a fire road with a vest all full of wires and electronics.
3s power?
10s power?
NP or AVG?
Not saying you are not consistent or anything, just curious as to which setting you find best for the process. Thanks
These are questions l want to know
More info on Guerrilla Gravity: www.pinkbike.com/news/guerilla-gravity-us-made-carbon-frame-smash-trailpistol.html
So if you've done the DC bikes, what time would a well regarded XC, trail bike, or enduro bike do it in?
Appreciating that there will be other factors such as tyre choices given an XC bike won't run the same tyres as an enduro bike but it'd be interesting to see the variance.
So often we read about how well X bike climbs when I'm relative terms it doesn't.
Thanks for the test and content anyway!
In the same vane as changing wheels being overkill to not evaluate bike for bike one could argue then that control tyres themselves make it not comparing the bike itself as the product manager intended for it to ride a certain way based in the tyres they spec. Alternatively it has been argued that often times bikes are in fact inappropriately specced with too light tires to make them seem lighter. Not sure of the correct answer but I'm sticking to my opinion that for pure climbing test control wheels are the way to go.
Yes 300 W is 300 W, but 300 W perfectly upright with no upper body engagement will be a different physiological effort than 300 W on a race machine with an aggressive posture.
The work at the pedals is the drive train efficiency, probably heavily driven by the wheels and bearings as well as the suspension and eliminates much of the geometry influence on efficiency.
The majority of the real efficiency difference would be a system test. The most important component of the system being the engine and position of the engine... heart rate is well correlated to effort so should be measured to make this a valid test (I get that it's only a bit of fun though). The spoken word from Mike suggests that maintaining 300W on some bikes is significantly harder than others, but the results show only a small difference, mostly within the marine of error of the test design.
It's impressive that Mike is holding 300W consistently on a number of over 2 minute runs without any fatigue. He must have a good FTP.
I suspect that a lot of bikes that score “meh” on a road climb are much, much faster in the proper setting.
You can always lock out the rear for the odd slog up a paved road (just don’t forget to open that shock for the down!!).
That's a really solid number.
You've got my attention.
It depends.
It is the same as control tires. Hubs spin more freely if different quality. I never realized how much people like to comment before thinking on this website
I would totally watch a full Field Test series only about tires. @brianpark are you listening?
time spent climbing on bike 1 = (weight of bike 1 + weight of @mikelevy +weight of all gear)/(weight of bike 2 + weight of @mikelevy +weight of all gear) *time spent climbing on bike 2
So the time difference between the Allied and the Evil would be fully explained by weight difference if the Evil was about 5.5 kg heavier. (guessing Allied +@mikelevy = 85 kg)
If you want to test for certain metrics, you have to isolate them. Making the weight the same, tires the same (PB did that), same crank length, etc, would isolate the suspension kinematics better for testing. However, still the geometry and riding position may have some influence on the efficiency.
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