.
PINKBIKE FIELD TRIP
How to buy a used mountain bike
Words by Mike LevyYou don't need to be a penny pincher to know that, if you're smart about it, buying used can save you some serious coin. Trust me, you probably don't want to go the secondhand route if you're looking for underwear or a toothbrush but, when it comes to mountain bikes, you might be able to find your dream machine on the buy and sell for a fraction of its original - and ridiculous - asking price. New-to-you sounds pretty good, doesn't it? Totally... Until the warranty-less chainstays decide to separate into three pieces. Or you're looking at a bill to replace the entire drivetrain. Or to replace the fork.
Buying a used mountain bike might be one of the smartest things you've ever done, but it could also be one of the worst. Today's Field Trip video is all about how to examine a used bike so you don't accidentally trade your Xbox for a lemon.
Photos: Anthony Smith
Additional footage: Lear Miller
417 Comments
I notice nomad v4 were going anywhere from 3500-4500 with 2 years of park riding. Priced it at 3500 I got 3 hit. But they were international. And I don’t trust PayPal enough. I said f*ck it at this point, I just wanted the bike gone. So I sold it on Facebook and marked it for $2500 (without the reserve rims). I got like 20 hit from people saying they can meet today. So even driving a 8-10 trip just to see the bike.
People need to understand, there is your perceived value and there’s the apparent actual value.
I ended up selling the reserve wheels separately.
Demo models were super cheap but you have to time it right (when they sell is pretty random and it's first come first serve).
Another lbs will give you 15% off any bike they order in. Seems weird to me (that they value their floor stock higher), but maybe that type of client is better?
Anyhow, no need to pay MSRP on a new bike.
You guys should be worried about dying, not used bikes
I don't have a problem with a guy saying, "I owned a Yeti and the rear triangle cracked." I'm just dubious of dozens of people who have never been within 300 feet of a yet on a trail passing on a narrative they have no experience with. I'd also question a guy who said he had five Yetis and they all cracked. Then you're just dumb for buying the same thing over and over expecting different results.
hey it'd be cool to know how many frames their sponsored athletes go through right? Does Richie's frame last all season? How about Nate Hills?
ah good point. keep race bike mint for race day. plus the sb150 frame is built stronger than the sb130 so (hopefully) it has fewer failures. Richie rides like an f'n freight train.
I demoed a 130 and really liked it, just out of my price range. Had one shop guy say they tend to get squeaky, heard the same about Evil. Anyway, I'd only buy a Yeti with a warranty and of course they don't offer a model below $5k so it's ripmoAF FTW this year.
A shop here in town has carried them for years. If they were consistently a huge problem, I'm not sure a shop would stick with them for as long as this one has.
each time I got the replacement frame, it had a different headtube spec: it started at threaded 1" to threaded 1-1/4" then to threadless 1-1/8" had to buy all different hardware to accommodate the new headtube spec...at frame three, I gave up.. never bought Cdale again. ... during those days, they also had serious corrosion issues but, I never had one long enough for corrosion to set in.
I'll avoid an (insert profession) joke now about how Yeti owners only hang them in the garage and pull them out once a month which is why the shop may not see many issues.
Also the Yeti owners i know all ride hard... but don't tend to keep bikes too long... hmmm.
Last off, at the rate I ride I'd anticipate needing to replace the lower sliding rail annually (I'd score the sh*t out of that pretty ka$hima thing going from snow to mud to moon dust and everything in between each year) and i hear that costs a pretty penny.
i rode that bike once. climbed like a demon even with that alu frame and not so light build (but felt overdamped)... now why can't yeti get away from linkage designs that are high maintenance? interesting that alchemy is using the old switch design now.
In my experience, the more expensive the bike, the bigger the potential savings. Lower end bikes seen to only drop 20-30% after a year. But 40-50% seems more normal on the high end.
Also, the advice I always give people when looking at PB classifieds is to only pay attention to the prices on the newest listing. Anything non-obscure that's been sitting there for more than a few days is likely overpriced.
New bikes can be purchased for 25-35% off during year end sales - the kind of sales that would attract a value shopper like someone who, I dunno, might be buying a used bike. So that should be the starting point. Not MSRP. A year old bike should be at least 40% off, imo. In fact, I just listed/sold a year-old, excellent condition bike for around half of MSRP, which is what I felt was fair value.
I didn't know that alchemy was using the switch link... interesting.
So you sold the equivalent of a $10k bike for $500?
b.s. -> you have an exposed sliding rail in an area of high contamination. it looks cool so Yeti won't design a way to cleanly cover it up and thus improve the service interval. i recall a review with pictures of the kashima already showing signs of wear after a few (probably hard) months of riding.
IMMV and to be fair i'm not on one but have also read feedback from owners that it's an 'expensive' annual fix. compare to a santa cruz who will just send you new bearings for your links each year for free.
I know it works and it works damn well. Just high maintenance. Let's be honest who's wiping their kashima between every ride? (wait, wut?)
yeah i ran into cody kelley's dad up at DV last summer and he said they ride great, but need an X2 or air shock w/ a large negative air chamber which makes sense as a dual link bike with what i assume is a lot of antisquat. no surprise said they climb great, no switches needed. Said they're not for lazy riders and work best when you're pinning it and pressing down on the pedals. Anyway the Alchemy frames look great and are on sale right now.
There is nothing wrong with buying a used bike and you can get some very good deals in the process ... plenty one/two years old bikes out there, and they arguably represent the best possible buy, exactly like for a car or a motorcycle. Older than a couple of years you can steal away some incredible good deals.
shut your cake hole coolio, i'm running out of things to gripe about.
no aluminum and starting price of $5.4k?
All the complaints years ago about warranty replacements taking months to get- all just a giant conspiracy against Yeti.
Lets just move on and ride our bikes and have some fun in life. Hang loose
Looks good in person at least and I’m ok w the suspension design. But yeah the geo is whack and it’s behind it’s peers in that category. After experiencing modern geo I don’t even want to throw a leg over anything ‘outdated’.
I also shake my head and make an angry turtle face of disgust when I hear a neglected drivetrain on the trails, which is often. And I wipe my stanchions often.
They can't grasp that if a company charges premium prices for their product, people expect premium service, something which Yeti has yet to prove itself as doing.
We had a Defender as a company car.
Every single time we took it to the carwash we ended up picking up parts from the ground afterwards. ????
Tune ~$100
Bearing service ~$150
Brake pads and rotors ~$100
Fork service ~$75
Rear shock damper and air can rebuild ~$150
New tires front and rear~$150
Prices are hazy guesses, it has been a couple years since I worked as a mechanic. Adding chainring, chain, cassette, spoke replacement, dropper service, etc. adds up quickly. Sometimes the total cost of purchase and repair would exceed a solidly spec'd new bike.
The last shop I worked at was pretty awesome, we would allow potential used buyers and sellers to meet at the shop and provide a free inspection and service quote. We would generally refrain from appraising the bike and only provide a repair bill to get the bike running well. This usually worked out well for all three parties, especially when the seller was honest and aware of their bikes condition.
My recommendations for buying used:
If you are mechanically inclined and can properly repair/maintain the bike yourself-send it. Get that deal on Pinbike.
If you rely on a shop for service, buy local, have a mechanic inspect the bike and get you an honest quote for repairs before purchasing.
Reputable shops will service their demo fleets before sale. Ask about the shop's pre-sale procedures before buying a demo bike.
Don't get too hung up on high end componentry. I'd ride SLX or GX in good condition before worn out XTR or XX any day.
Be safe folks.
If you don’t know your way around a bike then maybe buying used isn’t for you. If you do, buying used is a great way to go.
Just remember, if you do buy used, always pay friends and family, so you save 3%!
Also most modern full suss big hitters need some serious abuse to break them.
Already?!!
Also as someone who sometimes rides rental when I go someone on a non bike trip and want to pull 1 day of riding - I'm yet to ride a rental bike where everything is perfectly fine..
You're telling me there are NO differences among groups with regard to how they treat belongings which aren't theirs?
Wheels, I can understand people getting in over their heads but brakes, (dumb question incoming) well, how does a person manage to ruin the brakes on a rental?
I've heard that "green" argument for a number of goods and the logic just doesn't hold up, your still supporting the industry, and thus creating demand. I could make the argument that buy buying used, your creating a secondary market which helps uphold the value and thus making these bikes more "disposable" for the initial buyer which leads to more overall purchases and thus more environmental impact..
Nope not really. You buying used means you are not buying new. Fewer people buying new = lower production. The argument that higher demand on the used market increases demand on new market BY THE SAME AMOUNT As if those people bought new is absurd. A 1:1 ratio is the maximum possible outcome and you assume it. Also the argument has been used in relation to other markets as clothing. So nice try being a contrarian.
I never said it's possible to "not have the first buyer". It's simply possible to satisfy a bigger amount of possible customers with a smaller volume of produced units - be it cars, bikes or clothes.
As for TI bikes - only in some weird circles. For a while you got more for specific old road bikes but I think that collectors ship has sailed and hipsters now just buy expensive Cinelli stuff.
As for cars going up in value it's a relatively new trend. For years most even super rare cars were not that expensive. My father owned (and totaled unfortunatelly) a lot of currently cult and expensive cars.
My current rule of thumb is to look at a used bike and think: Would I rather than this than a Ripmo AF?
I wasn't gonna chime in but I was thinking I’ve been buying brand new YTs for 3-year-old used Yeti prices for 5 years.
Also though prices are generally highAF there are lots of great bikes now new in the $3k range.
And sell to a friend, family member, anyone else you know getting into the sport so you don't have to faff w/ the buy/sell which can be brutal.
And keep your premium parts (e.g. carbon wheels) and carry from bike to bike. Keep those stock parts around that you upgraded.
brahahaha! rode a gen1 Bronson down in Moab yrs ago with a literal hole in the downtube from a rock strike. i could see the next layer of carbon underneath. it was for sale and the shop said they'd knock another couple hundred off bc of the crack/hole.
i was shocked they wouldn't knock a thousand off the sale price. to be fair the bike rode fine and frame was stiff as a poker. anyway, i'd buy a demo bike from a local shop here in northern utah but no f'n way down south.
Ordered a Santa Cruz Nomad from them and the condition was much worse then they had posted. I complained and they ended up paying for all the necessary repairs (good on them!). But the repairs took almost 2 months all together and I missed the best part of the season that year.
The rim wheel build and microspline driver would have cost me $900.
Theproscloset had a enve dt240 wheelset that had micro spline, 36 tooth ratchet and torque caps for $750.
Now I'll sell my CK huns and offset the cost even more.
Most often the bikes have 100km on them also lol.
Maybe some SC bikes will come in cheap now
Anoher idea: how about articles covering truly classic models of yesteryears? Bikes that you're likely to find used but that're still rad. Those that were forming the trends. Like some Transitions or Konas. (How is the old process 153 holding up these days?)
As the original comment mentioned, probably 98 out of 100 bikes are way overpriced. It takes time to find the one or two gems.
However I will reiterate what others have said - 90% of the asking prices on PB are from sellers high on crack.
I sometimes think there are a lot of people who just automatically list the bike they own at a high price just in case they can get it and then springboard to something newer.
I put good realistic prices on my used bikes and they sell quickly and everyone's happy.
In my case, i fully service my bike since Volksprung f*cked up my fox 40 because they didn't properly put the seals and damaged the Kashima. Put a 380 r2c2 and it is way better than the fox 40/ Rockshox boxxer WC i used to have.
1. I buy a bike to ride , not sell.
2. Since the bike industry went crazy with making bikes obsolete EVERY year by inventing the micro standard, I now only buy close out on last years model( from and serviced by local bike shops).
3. Yeti gets hate because they charge super high prices and then give you a GX chain on a 8k, “XO1” bike.
P.s. Buying used is a great option when you know the seller.
A little bit of creativity can go a long ways towards saving money.
on the price --- bicyclebluebook.com is just like KBB but, I do not agree with the prices they somehow come up with -- and, just for kicks, I checked on something I sold a while ago. the low ball haggler used BBB as a reference point for the super low price he offered on a blingy bike I was selling ($2300 MSRP in neat mint condition, they claimed $550)
--- 2-1/2 years later, BBB is still showing the same price. How's that possible?
Get a second opinion it may no be what you want to hear but it could save some money and headache.
As always, you get what you pay for. I still not afraid of buying used. Just more cautious.
So while not having a warranty is a risk you have to look at how much it would cost if the frame had a failure, make sure you are saving enough money that you can replace the frame and at least come out even if you bought new. Dont do something stupid and buy a 2nd hand bike for 5% off MSRP because it has "only been ridden around the neighborhood"
Another benefit with used is that when you sell the bike it doesnt depreciate very fast (you could even make a profit depending on the deal you got and how soon you sell it). After 3 years I sold the Trek for around 25% less than what I paid for it.
Bought 10 used bikes over the past 15 years, 8 frame-only, 2 complete, from Pinkbike, eBay, and from friends. I've only bought 4 new bikes/frames in my lifetime. Overall I've been happy with buying used; almost all came as-advertised or the seller worked out a return (wrong size once). Of the 2 used frames that broke, both companies offered to crash replace the frame at an attractive price so I wasn't SOL. Banshee and Ibis have great customer service.
YMMV. Buyer beware with used stuff, as it's up to the seller to disclose faults and the manufacturer to decide on a crash replacement option.
And here is a reason to buy new. You get the bike you want, not a bike that is available.
So when you buying equipment, you must be confident in it (new or used)
I prefer buying new, just because it is easy, more enjoyable and provide confidence for me
Ok, rant mode off. This is mostly for Craigslist sellers, not Pinkbike
I'm still on a 2014 giant trance and my friends give me shit all the time because I spend about 1k a year keeping it running and upgrading parts but the common line is "you can get a whole new bike for 3 grand". The reality is I can't get a bike for less than 6k with the level of kit I have.
Yes, I agree with you. I recently sold an 2015 EVIL Following with ENVE, Chris King and XX1 everything. 10k new. I ended up getting 3500 for it and it was dialed. Well used but dialed. All new bearings, BB, Push rebuild fork, Avalanche rebuild shock... the list goes on and on. Bikes with that sort of build depreciate too much and you'll always lose with buying/selling them.
In my opinion a new bike (previous model year, on sale) with a mid grade build (3000-3500) is the best option if you ride hard. Beat on it for two seasons and put nothing more that a new chain and a new set of tires on it and you should be able to sell it for about 1000-1500 less than what you paid. With two seasons of riding on it and not rebuilding anything, it should be a wash. Not gaining anything with this method, but not losing either. Hard to ask for more.
Every fall shops sell their Demo bikes. A shop with a large fleet will likely have something very lightly used in your size. Will be offering it at Cost. Maintained by them. With a warranty. Boom.
Sometimes I see adds in France from true``adventurers`` who bought the latest premium 160mm enduro bike whereas they live near by Paris or in the flat north and it`s written: ``this bike has never seen a mountain``.
But it can be tricky with that sort of wankers: they often spend more time at the high pressure cleaning station that at riding, and you can be sure that bearings are wrecked.
One more detail: those hardcore riders worship carbon `cos on flat lands they climb better against the wind
Some people are shady and some people are not. The guy that got my bike got a stupid good deal. Carbon everything. Fresh tune up the week before he bought it. I let the dude take the bike for a weekend and ride it. Almost brand new suspension. Etc. There is no way he could have gotten remotely close to that bike paying retail or even clearance prices.
not even close. He basically bought a frameset and got a 29lb 150/160 carbon bike.
Totally agree though, quite rare to find such high demand bikes - people keep them. Even rarer to find one that wasn’t ridden hard, but at least Nicolai aren’t fragile like many/most other bikes. Good thing to consider when you’re shopping for used bikes (how long they actually last when ridden consistently).
Best decision I've ever made in my life, this bike is absolutely rad now, my LBS was able to make a '2014' bike turn into a $3000 sex machine that comprehensively dunks on any 2020 model year bike with an MSRP south of $6k, and many even beyond that point.
With the right plan in mind, buying used is going to work great - but failing to plan or budget around the required effort to get the bike working for you is going to be problematic.
Rule #1 Never buy used $2000+ especially If it's 2 years or older. It's usually going to need a new drive train, new bearings, new brakes, and no warranty. That's about $1500 shop time.
Rule #2 Never buy used. Buy a new frame set only, and build your own dream machine. That means you can eliminate the Sram garbage all together, for a much more enjoyable ride.
Stuff like the fork needing to be rebuilt, the rear shock needing a full service, replacement of internally cracked rims, replacement of the completely shot frame bearings, replacement for the worn out casette and chain, the mech cage being bent out of shape and needing replacement, etc quickly adds up if you're unlucky.
I also bought a DH bike that was claimed to be ridden 10 times, It was shipped to me as it was not local. I assure you this bike saw multiple seasons. I ended up filing a complaint with PayPal and got some money back. Again rode it a couple times and parted it out.
Bike I have now was bought new. I don't think I will buy used again unless it is flawless and barely ridden. I'd especially never buy a used park bike.
Also a tip for people selling their bikes, keep any service receipts for proof for future buyers if you decide to sell down the road. And for buyers, if someone tells you they "wrench" on their bikes themselves or that they're a "bike mechanic", have it inspected by an actual bike mechanic before buying. Lesson learned!
Buying a Toyota is like buying a giant. Cheap, no frills, quality product, dime a dozen on the trail or highway. You're Giant/ toyota isn't gonna impress anyone, but it probably won't break and cost an arm and a leg to fix.
How much are Yeti replacement parts?
Parts spec includes MRP Ribbon 160 fork, Fox DPX2 Shock, new Ibis aluminum bar, GX Eagle drivetrain, new KS e30i dropper, new SRAM Level T brakes, new Fulcrum wheelset, new Ibis stem, and matching green Chromag seat. Bike looks great, is shiny and performs without issue. Fork was serviced recently. There are paint chips that are pictured.
Regret not to get the fork (an RS SID XX WC) in the same purchase but i was fear about customs.
Frame was mint, like in the photos, and pay 50% of the price new.
Even I bougth a pair of syncros wheels posted here, a showcase ones.
A complete bike its another thing, drivetrain and wheels bearings wear out a lot, considering off-road bikes.
‘GRIM.’
Wut? Lol
Post a Comment
Join Pinkbike Login