Formula's high-end RO Racing brake is a two-piston stopper that's been designed with downhill riding and racing in mind, or for those who are looking for more power than they might find on tap from a more traditional two-piston offering. What sets the RO Racing brake apart from other options is its radial, pull-style master cylinder that, thanks to a repositioning of the lever pivot, works in the opposite direction to the push-style systems you might be used to seeing. There's also a set of oval-shaped pistons, as well as a whole bunch of titanium hardware that all make the RO Racing brake seem exotic - and pricey - compared to more common brakes.
A single RO Racing brake goes for $350 USD, and a front brake with an 880mm long hose weighs 372 grams, including an 180mm rotor, adapter, and all mounting hardware.
RO Racing Details• Pull-style radial master cylinder
• Two-piston, one-piece caliper
• Oval-shaped pistons (25.4mm equivalent)
• Tooled reach adjustment
• No contact-point adjustment stock
• Aluminum lever
• Titanium hardware
• Sintered (stock) and semi-metallic pads avail.
• Six-hole and CenterLock rotors avail.
• Weight: 372 grams (front, 180mm rotor, all hardware)
• MSRP:$350 USD per brake
•
www.formula-italy.com What's Up Top?The RO Racing brake uses the same two-piston caliper found on some of the Italian brand's other offerings, but it's up top where things are drastically different from the rest of their range. Formula's other brakes, along with everyone else's, employ a standard push-style master cylinder that, as the description suggests, pushes the master cylinder's plunger in as you pull the brake lever. This is what you'll find across the board from Shimano, SRAM, Magura, Hope, Formula's other offerings, and anyone else who sells hydraulic disc brakes.
The RO Racing brake, however, works in the opposite way. Because the brake lever's pivot is on the opposite side of the plunger pivot, the brake's master cylinder's plunger is pulled out and away from the handlebar when you squeeze the brake lever rather than being pushed in towards it. Neato.
But why? Formula cited two reasons when we talked to them during the brake's debut at Eurobike last year. First, it allows them to bring the lever pivot in closer to the handlebar for improved ergonomics. And, second, they say that it also makes for lighter lever action due to the pulling motion of the plunger through the master cylinder not binding as much as when you're pushing it. For what it's worth, I think it also looks pretty cool.
Besides the radial, pull-style master cylinder setup, the top end of the RO Racing brake has been pared down to the absolute minimum. There is no in-line dial to adjust the brakes contact point (Formula refers to this as their '
Feeling Control System') although this can be installed as an aftermarket hop-up, and reach adjustment requires a near-microscopic 2mm hex key. And just in case the RO Racing brake isn't trick enough compared to the veritable sea of Shimano and SRAM brakes, it also comes stock with titanium hardware from the factory.
Caliper and RotorThe bottom end of the RO Racing brake might not be as interesting as what's happening upstairs, but Formula is hiding one trick inside of the brake's forged, one-piece caliper: two oval-shaped pistons. Why go with egg-shaped pistons when pretty much everyone else uses the tried and true round shape? To increase the piston's surface area, of course, which is said to therefore increase braking power. Formula says that the oval shape is the equivalent of a 25.4-millimeter diameter piston.
The stock sintered brake pads load through the top of the post-mount caliper, with a threaded collet pin holding them in place, and the banjo bolt can be loosened to be angled to best work with your frame and fork. One-piece steel rotors or fancy looking two-piece rotors with alloy spiders are available (my test brakes came with the latter), and the alloy spiders are said to be able to act better as a heat sink by pulling temperature away from the brake pads and the DOT fluid. Cooler running temps mean there should be a more consistent feel and less chance of fading.
Setup and ErgonomicsWith a split perch and post-mount calipers, the RO Racing brake installs just like any other system on the market, although I did run into some setup issues after using them a handful of times. While it only took a few minutes to align both the front and rear brake calipers to run drag-free, this would usually only last for a single ride before the rotors would start to gently brush one of the brake pads on both ends of the bike. The rotors stayed straight, mind you, and everything was tightened to spec and bled correctly, but the light contact would always return regardless of what I did.
Lever reach is adjusted by using a 2mm hex key to turn a recessed screw at the front of the lever, with firm detents that keep the lever's position from ever migrating in or out during use. Other than the reach adjust, the lever's angle and its position on your handlebar are the only other remaining adjustments.
There is no contact-point adjustment dial as found on Formula's RO and T1 Racing brakes (the Feeling Control System can be installed on the RO Racing brake but doesn't come stock), but the engagement point for the RO Racing brake is exactly where I'd have it if even it were adjustable. I had a Shimano XT shifter and 9point8 dropper post remote up against the RO Racing perches and had no issue with compatibility, and it looks like they'd also play nice with every other shifter or dropper post remote on the market.
PowerI'd exchange a bit of power for some extra control and modulation, but Formula may have taken that trade a bit too far. There's appreciably less initial bite from the RO Racing brake, regardless of either pad compound I tried, which is something that could be a benefit in low-traction conditions if you're a glass-half-full kind of guy. That said, they certainly have less power than what you'll find from Formula's other brakes, especially their powerful The One stopper. I found myself spending less time on my bike's rear wheel because of this - I wasn't confident I could bring the front-end back down as required - and they don't exactly instill confidence when you're riding at ten-tenths.
Multiple sets of semi-metallic and sintered brake pads were installed, the stopping surfaces were not contaminated, and the brakes were bled correctly during my time on them. Regardless, my tired hands further confirm a lack of power, and it would take about three minutes of solid descending before my mitts started to complain. There wasn't a single hint of them pumping up or fading and losing power, however, so at least things stayed consistent.
ModulationThe RO Racing's lack of outright power does mean that it seems as if they have more modulation than previous Formula offerings. Anyone who's ridden Formula's brakes is probably aware that they definitely have a unique feel to them compared to a SRAM or Shimano brake, and that's still true of the RO Racing. That distinctive lever impression - some have referred to it as "wooden" - is still there, but it's been greatly reduced. This is very good news. I was also happy with the rather firm lever feel once the pads made contact against the rotor, with there being not even a hint of mushiness that can make one wonder if their brake levers are going to pull up against their grips in a panic situation.
I crept down some scary steep rock faces while I had the RO Racing brakes on my bike and can't recall a single ''Oh shit!'' moment when I locked up by accident and then struggled to take control again. Formula has definitely improved on the modulation front, although I do suspect that some of this might down to their lack of stopping power. Either way, the control is there, even if the power isn't.
Pinkbike's Take: | A lack of outright power means that the expensive RO Racing brake is hard to recommend compared to less expensive, better performing systems on the market. Yes, Formula has improved lever feel over their other offerings, but they'll also need to improve on the power output before I'd consider the RO Racing brake for my own bike. - Mike Levy |
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loads of the Specialized mountain bikes came with Formula brakes a few years back and we had nothing but trouble with them out of the box. No bite, no power, no nothing.
We then get a tech update that Formula had accidentally got "assembly grease" in the brakes during the factory setup / bleed which was causing this issue. I believe the grease had done something nasty to the internals as the brakes all went back to the distributor, some sets taking weeks to resolve due to low stock levels or waiting on parts from Italy. Customers not impressed with new bikes with no brakes.
Following season, no Formula brakes on Specialized!
Will stick with Shimano, thanks!
Formula RX circa 2013....
Now with shimano rotors, originals wear away too nothing between the drilled holes....
I see the design hasn't changed! ;-)
I have these on my mondraker.
They are great brakes.
However the pads that formula make are made of cheese.
They never even bedded in properly, and virtually never stopped me properly either.
Then I got some uberbike race matrix pads.
Now they stop on a dime.
Perfect modulation to do stoppies etc., and stopping fast is no problem at all.
If they sorted out the quality of the pads they made, formula brakes would have a better reputation in my opinion.
The T1S levers (off RX I think) were terribly wooden, but loads of modulation and power on the original T1s. And the T1S calliper a were fine.
My biggest complaint is that as the pads wear, the bite point becomes less consistent, until about 2/3rds in, it is lethal. Not great for winter riding when your pads can wear really fast.
And their current disc design sucks. The way that the holes are aligned in two straight rows mean that they wear drastically faster there than at the center and edges of the braking surface. I ruined one set in a week at a trip to the alps..
there no perfect but no brake is, they need heat in the pads to get braking properly, and there is the drag issue, but compared to the XT's on the trail bike I'm on smaller discs, still have more stopping power and the previous style lever has proven to be solid.
This new lever may be a step back, less power and a lot of sideways pressure on the seal's.
I have purchased exactly this combo - RO racing 2016 + two piece semifloating rotors and I have to agree with this article.
At first no stopping power, squeeking noise and terrible feel. I tried to bed them in several times without success.
Then ordered Uberbike race compound pads and bed in. Guess what. The brakes are now doing what I want.
Yes I admit, You can buy a different brand brakes, install and go, but what I like on Formula is the modulation and soft power ramp up - especially useful after a day of muddy racing, when the hands are tired.
First start investing some money in advertising. Then send your mechanics to set up the brake of the reviewer.
Have technicians going to your dealers to train them on brake set up. These need to be set up correctly in order to work.
And it takes more than "I bleed my shimano". You need advanced skills. Which many guys working in a shop do not have.
Most people overlook something that should be pretty obvious. RACE.
90% of Formula are race brakes. Not for the average rider.
Do you weigh less then 180 pounds? Do you understand how to work on brakes beyond the instructions? Do you need to save 300 grams on a brake system? Do you maintain your bike every ride? Do you ride fast enough and have the skills for these brakes to work as intended?
This is like sending a formula 1 car to a luxury car magazine and being surprised the reviewer can't even start the car.
"Multiple sets of semi-metallic and sintered brake pads were installed, the stopping surfaces were not contaminated, and the brakes were bled correctly during my time on them."
Didn't someone say something to the effect of: 'doing the same action over and over expecting a different result, is the definition of stupid'?
This article came to mind when I read this.
www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gear/article/how-we-test-hydraulic-disc-brakes-24345
Isn't having a plunger in the middle of the cylinder where the hydraulic pressure is built-up a bad idea? It's kind of like a car engine but the conrods are in the cylinder. Wouldn't that require a much bigger cylinder for the same volume of oil so to compensate for the piston shaft volume? Also said piston shaft will require it's own set of sealing o-rings, you know, pretty much the #1 catastrophic failure culprit in hydraulic systems, yeah got some more of those right here.
Plus in those pictures the lever is awfully far from the end of the grip so to clear the shifter lever, which is ironically the opposite of what the article says was a incentive to build this type of lever.
These Formulas CR1 have good modulation, but the feel on lever is totally different, the lever movement is small and I have to use more force with fingers. Perfectly fine for double finger braking, for single finger it took some time to adjust. Overall very happy so far. Yes, people with small fingers who want lever near bars should look elsewhere, also people who want easy effortles light touch braking.
stuck with them for a year finally gave up and got shimano xt's, perfect
dump the cr's get shimano's and start single digit breaking
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The Shimano's are fantastic and my GF has the Tech Evo 2's which are just insane on power and feel.. I guess its just what brake feel you prefer.
Plus ive not given the brakes much TLC and run them down to the metal twice.. and the pistons just cruise back into place.. that's a win-win on feel and reliability IMO.