There's a good chance that you know what it feels like to work hard, squirrel away at least some of that money, and then hand it over in exchange for a shiny new mountain bike. Damn rewarding, right? Of course, but something strange can happen not too long after that. That's right, your dream bike, the very machine that was supposed to elevate your riding abilities to new heights, your fitness to new levels, and your Instagram feed to new followers can start to feel... pretty damn normal. I know, how disappointing.
There's no denying the leap in performance if your new machine is a few seasons or more recent than the bike it replaced, but now you've owned it long enough to wear out some tires and realize that it'll probably end up on the Pinkbike Buy & Sell, just like the one you owned before. Hopefully, you get offered more than an old Xbox this time around.
All the ol' 8-Ball needs is a fresh coat of blue paint and more headset spacers to bring it up to 2021 enduro standards.
But what if you could change just one thing about your current bike to modernize it instead of purchasing yet another one? In this parallel multi-verse of mine, it's literally that simple: You get to choose one method from the list below to make the bike you own today the best it can be. Leave a comment below to let us know what you're currently riding, when you bought it, and the one thing you'd change.
I just designed my own bike to make the geo 100% the way I want.
I ended up using a hydroformed down tube, so I'm considering cutting a hole in it to make SWAT style storage. Cable routing could use some work though.
This bike is rad! I have this bikes twin brother (although mine is raw titanium which I think it adds to the gritty industrial vibe). Mr ham crushed the design. It's sexy, and a blast on the trail!
Snap! If you can't afford the spankgly new bits.... Give it a go and make it yourself! Mine cost half what a new frame would've! m.pinkbike.com/photo/19963738
It's a 2018 Commencal Meta AM V4.2 (160/170mm F/R, 27.5) - stock besides a new seat and pulling the tubes out. It's aluminum and for my needs the parts spec is smart (Fox 36/DPX2 performance, GX, house brand cockpit). The only thing I have in mind is to play with progression in the shock. I might again notice a shade of improvement with a brand new bike of the genre, but I'm stoked on mine anyways
Same here, love the bike I got, no complaints, just added some Canfield cranks:
GG Revved Shred Dogg, 150mm CC Helm Coil, 140mm Mara Pro, 29” wheels, XT 12sp, Rat Dog riser bars, Chromag stem, OneUp 210mm dropper, Brooks Cadmium seat, TRP Quadiem brakes, DT Swiss/Duroc wheels, Maxxis DHF 2.6, all parts are aluminum, best damn bike ever!
@luke-miller: i have a 2019 Meta AM Team and the bike is solid and really doesnt need anything major from Commencal. They are great bikes. Maybe the frame could allow the seat height to be a little lower, but that was fixed for the 2020s.
Nukeproof Reactor 290 Factory. Barely touched it yet. Maybe it could use some orange pedals and accents? Less aggro tyres for my home trails? Splitting hairs.
Its a great feeling to have a bike you love when everyone else is always looking for the next improvement, I have a 2015 giant trance with everything upgraded inc coil shock and saint brakes, the only thing I wish for is better pedalling efficiency or at least just a motor lol
@luke-miller: I'm also completely happy with mine its a 2017 but with a shit ton of upgrades... 2021 Rockshox Lyrik Ultimate, Halo Vortex Wheels, Mullet Setup, Deity Components, and some little things, but definitely 2017-2018 geo for the win!
We need Vintage Hot Laps. Your 8-Ball and I'll bring my first gen. Bullitt. It's really fast, because it has Juicy 3 brakes, so no stopping and precious little slowing down.
@mikelevy: a piece about how to freshen up some old dog could be fun. Some much could be done (mullet, angleset, tubeless, cockpit and then more), to that 8-Ball and then re-time it on same track, similar conditions.
I run a 2009 Giant Glory. 26" wheels and all. I don't have anything to compare it to. I'm sure bigger wheels would be great, but it rolls just fine. If I'm pedaling I'm on a 2014 Spark. Could use a suspension upgrade, but it gets me around.
Most people wanted a lighter bike. I wonder how many actually use all their travel and heavy tire casings? I wonder how many would benefit from a lighter downcountry set up with good geo????
I was relieved to see that was the most popular answer. I feel like weight is overlooked a lot. By brands, reviewers etc. but it makes a huge difference.
@JDFF: dh casing tires and 147/160 travel, hit bottom almost every ride. Tore up dhr2 dd casing 2.3 last year right in between the tread blocks of the middle of the tire. No such issue with dh casing although I have had a couple of rim strikes without damaging anything, probably luck on that though.
+1. Too bad grippier tires often come hand-in-hand with the beefier casings. For my bike, paint touchups and lighter wheels are all it could truly use.
@DHhack: I run DD, Super Gravity or Tough Casing rear tires and one level lighter upfront. My rims are considered disposable ( always recycled) and I still get punctures. I ride them hard with no regrets. But I do see a lot of folks that would benefit from the weight savings of having slightly less bike/wheels.
@JDFF: I hear ya, I wish I could do the same. I had to run Flow EX rims on my old xc bike... I’m just cheap and would rather have too much tire most of the time instead of not enough tire a couple times a year.
@nurseben: how is using full travel an indicator of 'i need all that travel'? I can easily use all the travel on my 160 bike on my home trails by hucking off jumps or flatdrops, or i ride the 120mm hardtail almost as fast, but with more excitement. Plus, set it up plush enough and you could use full travel off the curb. I don't see the argument.
@Ben00: I was sad to see that. Clearly too many riders, like yourself, still don’t understand how little weight variations matter within the typical range. Thankfully many riders and publications are becoming better informed. It’s only because it’s easy to weigh a bike and pick up a bike to feel its mass that MTBers have continued the roadie habit of weight obsession. But things are getting better...
@threehats: When looking at a 120-130mm bike they can be found in 26-32 lb ranges, which is a massive difference that reviewers usually gloss over on the heavy bike.
Now if the brand shaves 30 grams off by changing linkage design that is very noteworthy.
Would have loved a good downcountry bike, like the transition spur, but the prices are pretty high. My bike is only 140/130mm travel. Once I added a dropper post, it weighed in at 35.xx lbs. The reality is you need to spend around $4000 to get a bike without a handful of super heavy parts. On my bike, the sx/truvativ crank and bb, rockshox recon with steel stanchions, and wheel set were all about a pound heavier than mid range options. Have slowly been replacing parts as they wear out or I find deals and goal weight is 32pounds.
@threehats: well I understand that I have more fun and can ride longer on a lighter weight bike. Clearly too many riders, like yourself favour stability over agility but I still like a bike that takes a bit of skill to descend fast.
@Ben00: If you believe that, then that’s fine for you. But there’s a lot of belief triumphing over reality with this stuff.
I swap between a 150mm alloy hardtail (about 27lbs) and a Levo (50ish?) They’re both fun. The Levo still goes uphill fine with the power off - that’s how I usually ride it on group rides (use the power to get me there and back quicker, better than driving!)
@threehats: If you're already at the best weight you can go down to, bike weight matters. A bike that's 2 kg lighter is going to feel much different, like how the difference between 72 kg rider weight vs 70 kg is important. It's both the feeling and climb times.
@agul29: Except that the suspension on my Levo works better than any non-ebike I’ve ridden, because the frame has so much more mass that the unsprung parts. And the extra bike weight adds stability downhill like a longer wheelbase would, except it’s better in tighter turns. After I got the Levo I considered adding ballast to my Spitfire’s frame for uplift days but then just sold it.
Lighter might feel different but it might not feel better. Just because you prefer lighter doesn’t mean everyone else will.
@Ben00: How the bike rides is significantly more important than how light it is. Probably every single bike I've ever owned, I have made heavier than when I got them. But, also made them perform better. Parts that are unnecessarily heavy, or that could loose weight without any strength or performance degradation is perfectly fine. And welcomed. There is a point though were I think a bike wouldn't feel good without a certain amount of weight. For example, if you could have 2 identical bikes, one weights 3 pounds and the other 30, I think like the 30 pounder would feel and perform better. With the exception of climbs of course.
@threehats: I think there is a place for heavy, tanked-out bikes but I think for the majority of trails/riders they aren't necessary and take away from some of the fun of mtb. If you have regular access to the right type of trails then you're lucky but most don't and to say that considering weight as an important factor makes you deluded/ignorant is a bit daft
Longer, slacker, "less" travel out back at 135mm, on frame storage, good cable routing, space for a long dropper, bottle bodged into the frame, boost 148mm. The perfect bike! It's built not to break, not to a weight
Still loving my 2016 Santa Cruz Bronson. Tried a Pivot Firebird for a season and discovered longer and slacker was too much compromise for my type of trail riding. Firebird was faster on the downs but I still have lots of confidence and control on the Bronson.
I've got a 2017/18 Hightower LT CC, and it's great, but it's a large and by today's sizing, it's a medium (and feels smaller than my previous Yeti SB6, which was a medium) I've spent too much money on it now to justify yet another new frame, so perhaps an angleset would give me that little bit more length I'd like.
@Linc: only by a few mm and is part of the reason I’m rocking a pretty long stem by modern standards. The main issue of upforking is the increase in stack height makes the bike harder to weight front when climbing. But descending it feels way better than before and with a bit more technique the climbing difference is very negligable. With the change the only thing that really limits the bike is speed. But I think any 135 mm bike (I don’t have lt) is gonna find a speed limit on the right trail or steep section.
Riding a 16Kg Privateer 161 of course I want to make it lighter! But I thought it would be better to modify myself instead. UK lockdown, garage gym, Zwift and making conscious decisions about what I eat and I’ve gone from 88.4Kg to 78.9Kg in a little over 2 months. Imagine saving 10Kg from your bike...
@mariomtblt: I've gone from 93kg up to 104.5kg (205 - 230lbs) in the past 3 years and I can definitely feel the difference riding. I've had to alter my riding style a little to suit and I can definitely feel difference in flex on the bike and wear on parts. Simple things like spokes and pivots need checking/tightening up far more often, flex in forks, wheels and seat post are more apparent (functionally, not a problem with my current build; just very noticeable) and pedals, drivetrain and brakes also need a little extra attention and maintenance. I was tempted to get a 140/150mm-ish trail bike at my last purchase but ended up speccing my own an all-mountain/enduro build in the end just to not have to worry about the durability and reliability side of things. I'm glad I went down that route in the end as I'm super happy with my current build!
I still think it would be interesting to see what you could do to the 8 Ball. If this was someone's daily driver they'd probably by now have, wide bars, short stem, fresh rubber, Chinese carbon rims, lighter crank etc etc. What would that do to it? People say that you can't ride older bikes, but for so long we could keep upgrading them so they could stay semi current.
Any chance to vote for „less slack and long“ - make bikes fun again, not only fast. I don’t need 450mm chainstays and a 64° head angle on a trailbike for average trails.
I have a 2020 Norco C2 Optic. I voted for more suspension, because I think 150mm on the front would be better than 140mm.
Everything else is good - cornering, geometry, dropper post et al. Very capable machine.
I feel the same. But I also always think that if I went 150mm I would want 160mm. I also see people crush on cross country bikes! The Pivot team was out riding here and what they can do on a 120mm cross country bike I couldnt even do on a 160 endruo!
Why not slap an air spring out front in that bad boy? It's like a 40 buck upgrade and AFAIK all stock optics forks have the ability to swap to 150 out front without changing other parts.
I also have an Optic and the only thing I was a bit bummed about was the weight - I put a ton of really light parts on it and it's a whole FIVE POUNDS heavier than the bike I took 90% of the parts off to move on to the new one.
Owner of a 2021 Optic C3 here.
I won't put a longer travel fork on it because that kind of defeats the purpose of having the Ride Aligned guide. Norco designed the geo in a way for your center of mass to be in a very specific spot within the wheelbase, or so they say.
But I think I will upgrade the damper in my Pike to a Charger 2.1 RC2
@j-t-g: That sounds drastic. Did you previously ride an XC bike? I did (Scott Spark RC) and when I first tried the Norco I was pleasantly surprised by how lively it felt. I expected far worse.
@BenTheSwabian It's not a strictly fair comparison - the parts came off a Trek Sache carbon frame. Which is of course a fully carbon hardtail. I swapped over 100% of the parts except the tires, seat collar, and obviously rear shock. The tires are a bit heavier than the old ones, but nothing crazy. The bike weighed 26 lbs even with bottle cage and XTR trail pedals. Built with a Fox 34 (not SC - it was overforked) and proper rubber though, and XL size. The Optic clocks in at a little over 31 lbs with decently light carbon bars, carbon cranks, 1500g wheels, stem, and drivetrain - I can get in to specifics, but the idea of the build was "what is the lightest stuff I can run that's still solid enough for a 100kg guy to ride" (forgive me for mixing units, it's a bad Canadian habit).
I am happy with how the bike rides, the wheels still accelerate really well despite the bike being heavier, and that's what matters, the feel, right? I was just flabbergasted when the difference between a trail hardtail and the Optic was that big. I was hoping to get the Optic under 30 right away but that doesn't seem terribly possible without having to go crazy.
@arrowheadrush Sorry to say I never weighed it stock - I frame swapped it out of the box. New C3 parts went straight on the old frame, and older parts went straight on the Optic. C3 XL Optics must be up there though.
@konacrew: Maybe I need to find a better way to adjust the 140mm Pike I have? I don't ever bottom it out, but it doesn't seem to handle small bump sensitivity very well.
160mm would make the bike too slack IMO. I won't be surprised if Norco moves up the fork to 150mm in future Optic models. Maybe change head tube to 65.5 (instead of current 65) and increase fork from 140mm to 150mm.
@j-t-g: Last fall (after a 7 mo wait for the frame) I built a 2020 Optic size L to 29.5# w/ flat pedals bottle cage and fender. It has a 150mm pike, 800mm bar, 4 piston brakes, 200mm dropper and Assegai 2.5/DHR II 2.4 tires. It’s an adequately stout trail bike but spendy to hit sub 30# for sure. For $2500 less it would be at 32# and nearly as good. No regrets, though.
Spendy doesn't matter. My build at retail would be up there with superbikes. I'd have to spend in to the 14k CAD realm retail at this point to get it sub 30.
My bike is a 2019 Marin Wildcat Trail 1 (37 lb 100mm travel hardtail w/ mechanical tektros and a 3x7). I couldn't afford anything else, but it would sure help to have better geo, new brakes and drivetrain, less weight, and a lot more suspension. If I could only choose one, I would go the route of weight reduction because the components do their job, just not super well.
A long time ago, I painstakingly renovated my first bike, a Mongoose IBOC Pro. I had my lbs install a new bb, handbuilt wheels and V-brakes, had it repainted in original Saab ruby red metallic, only to have it stolen 3 weeks after it was finished... So, a new paint job is no option, if it looks a bit scratched and scruffy it helps keeping thieves away. (But I make sure the parts are in good condition.) For my current Privee Shan I would increase reach and give it a steeper sta, that’s all.
2021 Norco Optic C3 - There is not a single aspect I'd want to change.
Yes, it could always be a few grams lighter and the paint quality could be better, if you wanted to be really nitpicky. But other than that it's basically perfect as is.
@j-t-g: Exchanging parts is a whole other story. I'm definitley going to upgrade the Pike with a Charger 2.1 RC2 damper and so far I'm not loving the Vittoria tires, but the bike itself (regarding geometry, suspension, sizing, etc) is dialed
My bike is only 2 seasons old. I don't need longer, slacker, etc stuck here in the boring midwest rolling hills hellhole. I guess lighter would be nice. But what I really want to change is that my bike's owner lives in the wrong place.
Built my trail bike in 2018 on a 2016 Lapierre Zesty 527XM frame. Drivetrain cannibalized from my old hardtail Pace, with bombproof DT Swiss EX511 rims and Maxxis Shorty/DHR tyres. Use it for going down mountains to trail centres. The best thing is, In the last 3 years I have not seen a bike I’d prefer over my rig. The bottle cage struggle is real though. Recently bought a lighter wheelset with XC tyres so I can swap it out depending on what I’m riding that day. I’m hoping to ride this for the foreseeable future.
2021 Giant TranceX 3. I voted to make it lighter. I made a 13 year jump in bike technology with the purchase so its pretty friggen sweet. But yeah it’s a bit chunky and if I had the cash I woulda loved the 2 with “better” suspension. I do like my black stankshun tubes though.
So the option i was looking for is I want 27.5 in the rear. Recently converted to 29" wheel and the only problem i am having is buzzing my butt on steep rolls. Id imagine i should be able to adjust my body position a bit to help with this. anyone else have this problem when switching to 29" ? Had one near miss where i bounced off the rear wheel and put all my weight over the front end just as the bike roll in, not sure how i rode it out. Not sure I want a mullet set up, just more clearance.
Yeah, it’s a thing (at least initially). I’m 6’0” and I noticed I never got the butt buzz on my 29er hard tail on the same steep trails that I used to notice it on a full suspension 29er. That was after switching from a 27.5 full suspension bike. Now it’s not an issue on the full squishy 29 bike so I guess I’ve changed position without really thinking about it much.
@warhorse: ride on man. I am in the same boat(sub two inches) as you. Used to ride HT 29et without issue. Same on Full suspension 27.5. I just got back from a ride and finally rode one section without buzzing. I rolled in a bit slower but, once I get the new muscle memory, I think should be all good.
As far as the 'new paint' crew goes, you can get window vinyl ("calendared vinyl") for very, very cheap, and once it's dirty you can't even tell! I wrapped my mtb, road bike.... and $200 beater ford ranger hashtagcovidproject.
I designed my own bike as well, a 200/210mm travel dual crown downduro bike that can take up to 4 water bottles or 2 bottles, a frame bag and a feeder bag. High pivot reverse horst link and it climbs fine.
Love it and don't feel the need to change anything on it
I voted for onboard storage. I love my bike. It’s a 2020 Liv Intrigue Advanced 1 and is perfect for me. Small bike frames don’t leave a lot of room for storage though so I would love if it had onboard storage. I like to carry tools to be ready for anything. With almost 4,000 km of single track riding on it it’s not beat to shit, it’s actually pretty much still perfect. If I could afford to change one thing, it would be to go with a wireless drivetrain, preferably with an oil slick cassette. Then I’d keep it forever!
2018 E29 coil (with a 170mm coil fork) does everything I want just fine. Maybe it could be slightly slacker? But it might negatively impact the tech climbing I do. I think it is good middle ground for my riding. I could use more travel, but still hard to complain. Near 40 pounds is high (with the SWAT full), but I don't care.
Just got 2021 Yeti SB140 couple of months ago so it's pretty dialed and up to date. None of the poll selections pertained but if I could change/add one thing it would be the addition of a TWAT box in the frame.
I would love it if my bike wasn't in pieces right now and that I acoutal ride it. Building up a new Druid, custom build so wouldn't change a thing, but still waiting on some the parts.
My Transition Bottlerocket's are awesome and while I was tempted to go with 27" wheels... I think I just need a bit slacker headtube angle. I believe it's at 67 degrees right now? 63- 62 degree's would be nice...
@elusive-phil: Oh, I am quite aware I could change the geometry with these sorts of fixes... but having the frame geometry itself having the desired geo. seems more... permanent. A bit more elegant if you will.
My main two bikes are 16 and 13 years old, and I'm as happy as I've been for a long while - the only nods to modernisation are wide bars on both, and the trail/enduro bike has a dropper post and is in the process of getting a proper 1x10 drivetrain to replace the ghetto 1x8 (which would have been fine except for the lack of a clutch mech!).
Geo is pretty good considering the time and no longer feels like it's holding me back compared to most previous bikes. (The exception being my old 2004 V10 which truly was ahead of its time! That's way too slack, they said back then!)
Once I've changed a few beat-up parts (for other working vintage parts, not modern parts!) things will be all good until something else breaks!
Bahh I haven't even ridden my newest bike yet. Already changed the brakes and have new grips. I will be swapping the saddle and maybe throwing a oval front chain ring. I can maybe foresee some different bars ( more rise). And maybe a wheelset next season or two.
Improve a 2021 Hightower CC XX1 AXS Reserve with AXS dropper, megneg, ridewrap, Revgrips, 200mm rotors, and a new Garmin 530? Ummm, sure, it could be a hair lighter or maybe a Cascade link add, but it's pretty badass.
On frame storage and cable routing is my answer because have a lot of stuff strapped or bolted to my frame. Pump, tube, multitool, bottle cage. It works, but doesn't look nice and everything gets dirty of course.
The cable routing on the '18 Altitude is legitimately bad. It's below the BB, and no matter how much slack I leave there, it pulls the shifter cable forward over time- making for a tight corner at the derailleur. If anyone has solved this I would love to know about it.
I’m still rocking a 2014 Blur TRc. It’s got absolutely no parts left on it that are original outside of the frame. Only thing that I would change is it would be nice to have just a little higher BB height, pedal strikes are pretty frequent.
Side note, anyone posting comments about their 2020 or 2021 bike and how it’s “perfect”....well yeah....
2019 Kona Process 153 CRDL 27.5 Small. 190lbs kitted, yeah I'm chunks. Bottom out regularly even with 27% sag. Not super aggressive rider. Cascade Components link in my future, maybe a Megneg. Otherwise, no complaints. The bottom out isn't even harsh.
Got a Giant Trance 2 that weighs 14.7kg or about 32lbs. That's with DD tires front and back along with some upgrades like a longer dropper, angled headset, heavier cranks (because I stripped the threads of the old ones), bigger rotors etc. Honestly, I don't notice the weight all that much and would probably just want a steeper seat tube and more reach. Actually, I probably mostly want my suspension to be in working order again as it's shit itself.
MTBers of Pinkbike - if you’ve ever thought your bike isn’t slack enough, put a slackening headset in. Works Components do them for loads of head tube standards, it’s just the fully integrated ones that miss out. Keep the fork the same and a -2 deg headset actually slackens the head angle by 1.5 deg whilst steepening the seat angle by 0.5 deg and dropping the BB about 4mm.
Poll should be multiple choice. Parts are beat. Holds only a small water bottle. No frame storage. I prefer 27.5 to 29 now. I want more suspension. Needs a new paint job. Grow reach by 30mm. Lower standover and a longer post. At least it is boost.
I’ve got an angleset on the way to make my HA 65 and then I will be 100% where I want geo-wise. I’m also loving my 77 STA for the climbs. The bike is 150mm f/r, all aluminum, GX eagle, enduro strength wheels, and has proper tires so it sits at about 33 pounds. I wouldn’t mind shaving a pound or two off, but I absolutely love it and the build is all within my budget. Can’t complain when people can’t even get bikes these days.
Really don't need to change anything. - where is this? I have a Nukeproof Mega 275C Pro. Mr Sam Hill proved that this bike is the best. I am never going to be as good as him to say that is not enough bike
My hand-me-down 26" 127 R/140 F Chumba XCL is a stellar bike in spite of not being a Weagle linkage. The 2005 coil Pike is a 20mm axle and I could count on one hand the number of modern forks I have ridden that surpass it. The only things I really hate about it are the rear axle/hub, (skewers are not fat kid friendly at the bike park,) and the geo. I can only fit a 100mm dropper on it, and I have to use a 60mm stem because the reach is so short. Longer and lower, (I don't really care about slacker,) would be good enough that I would just custom build a thru bolt 135mm rear to make it a keeper for another decade. A steeper seat angle for good climbing would just be frosting on the cake.
Hi, I had a Chumba XCL for 12 years plus and sold it recently. I had purchased a derailleur hanger and left hand thread suspension bolt from Chumba when they were still in Anaheim. If you still have your XCL let me know if you would be interested in these two new items.
Currently riding a 2021 Giant Trance X 29, bought in the Fall of 2020, replaced the 2016 Anthem Advanced 27.5 I'd been riding since 2017. I was super happy to get it, and when I did the shop owner said it was probably the last medium he'd ever have of that particular bike. The biggest thing I wanted to change was the rear shock tune, as the bike just felt unbalanced front to rear, meaning the fork felt good & I was happy with the travel I was using, but was bottoming out the shock often. The folks at Dirtlabs took care of that though, so now I only wish the wheels weren't so heavy!
Currently riding a 2014 Giant Trance 27.5 2. Bought it in May of 2014. (7 years old already, ooof)
Initially I bought it to handle almost all of the terrain. Being 140mm suspension I’ve raced XC on it as well as taken it to ride Whistler/Squamish trails (no bike park).
But at home, the downhill(ier) area got closed a few years ago and it’s basically all XC/trail riding here.
I would change it to have less and better suspension (120mm) so it’s more geared toward the XC racing. But I feel like only 20mm less suspension will still be able to handle the more gnarly trails out west.
2019 Salsa Rustler NX. Mostly perfect for what trails are around me... But I want to mullet, just make it a little teeny bit more capable in the rough.
That bike is so closely related to the Horsethief, that it seems like it would be easy to mullet. The previous generation Pony Rustler/Horsethief were the same bike with different wheels. Can you fit a 29" into your fork?
My Ibis Ripmo AF is at 38lbs and the water bottle situation is not ideal considering the gusset between the seat tube and down tube. Do not buy the original design with this gusset my friends.
@Alvey72: rear is a bit of flex, good for slow tech (especially climbing) but can be a bit tough to hold a line in high speed chunder. The stock ibis alloy wheels don’t help.
@Alvey72: I have the Push 11.6 to compliment the noodle rear end. I have quite a bit of flat technical rocky riding near me and when it’s wet it becomes pretty slimy. So essentially I like the noodle flexible nature of the rear end for those scenarios. When you have moderate and beyond speed however, it really is like ramen.
@kokofosho: I could see compliance/flex being beneficial at the lower speed techy stuff. I demoed a carbon Ripmo on a higher speed trail and it couldn’t hold a line and just felt line it was bending instead of turning
I was able to put a 180 one up post in my medium 2019 patrol. Can't slam the post but with my 30ish" inseam it's literally the perfect size. Unsure if the 2017 seat tube is different tho...
@secondtimeuser: yeah that makes sense. The 2019 alloy still has a crazy kink making it not optimal but those new carbon ones look like you could slam a longer post down. Maybe one day lol
have a commencal furious because it one of the few dh bikes with a long enough reach to fit me, but I wish there was a 27''/29' mullet option. Not many xl dh bikes come with mullet wheel option.
I have a custom built Scott gambler and a specialized Enduro pro (same as a works but x01 instead of xx1). I wouldn't change a thing on the specialized. I would love a coil shock but impossible to find anything right now.
A dropper lever that you could pull instead of push like a shimano shifter.
Oh, and for FORKS SAKE.... A DANG EXTERNAL BUTTON INSTEAD OF A HIDDEN ONE to release Shimano brake levers from the bars.
@elusive-phil: I'd take a L 2011 or 2012. on a M right now at 5'8 and the 408mm reach is a little squishy. 2011 and 2012 got 31.6mm seat tubes iirc, while 2010 and below got 30mm seat tubes, so no dropper for me. I'd like to drop in a headset to slacken it out a little, but other than that its awesome. Such a fun bike.
@Kamiizoo: I was always on a medium with my older bottlerockets, went with a large and its perfect. And yes the 2011 and 2012 have 31.6 seat tubes. You can get droppers in 27.2, some people have even reamed out seat tubes to take them 30.9 (up from the 30.0) m.pinkbike.com/photo/19308711
@elusive-phil: That thing is sick! 27.2 droppers don't have enough drop for me. I would want at least 150mm. reaming out to 30.9 would make the most sense, but I would want it done professionally and I have no clue how much it would cost. My br: www.pinkbike.com/photo/19992409
Better frame protection. Chainstays and downtubes take a lot of damage. I've made my own downtube guard with thermoplastic, but the chainstays on my 161 are buggered after a few rides.
Fortunate enough to have bought a 2020 kinda process 134 cr from the LBS at the end of the summer for $1200 off retail. Not sure how I got so lucky. Love the bike, wish it was purple though..
Ya know, I just got a status after a full carbon trek and I’m super stoked on it. Just swapped tires, got a 210 dropper and new bar and grips. Cheap and dialed. There’s no replacement for good geometry.
I would lower the seat tube on my 2020 commencal meta ht. i also have a 2011 Rocky Mountain flatline thats still holding strong, on that one i would give it a longer reach.
@bh406: I like bikes to improve, as long as it is improvement an not just another bullshit 'standard ' that creates 5 more problems to solve 1 that never existed......
Voted for lighter as lighter can mean more fun! Meanwhile riding a 170mm travel hardtail... (well, not riding, but building. All I need to ride are brakes now)
I would take that Brodie, put a 29" + rear wheel and a 24" front with a road tire and make a dragster out of it ' cause you'd be worn out after a quarter mile on it anyway.
WAIT A MINUTE PINKBIKE!!! I THOUGHT I WAS SUPPOSED TO WAIT FOR THE INDUSTRY TO COME OUT WITH NEW A NEW "STANDARD" AND GO WITH THAT UNTIL THEY CAME OUT WITH ANOTHER NEW STANDARD.
Tapered headtube, 1.125"/1.5" is a very good idea for single crown forks. Then I'd throw a 190mm Zeb on it. Lol, "New World Disorder #37" is really my life goal/dream to be honest.
The only thing I'd change about my 2016 Capra CF Pro is have a lockout on the Fox 36 fork and shock. Other than that I love the bike as much now as I did on day 1.
@njcbps: i'm 6 feet too. 480 is my sweet spot, with my current geo i can't move my weight around my bike, short cs is a fact for that too i think(426). if i want to stay a bit central it ends up too much weight on the front plus when you add low front end it wants to flip. My but always end up in same spot for whole riding, top of rear wheel
@noeserd 445 reach at 6ft is pretty tight. It’s a shame as your bike looks pretty sweet! My XL Carbine is 471 long and it’s great but I wouldn’t want to go any shorter at 6ft 3”. Where do you get your bikes and parts from in Turkey just out of interest? Do you import it all or are there actually any decent MTB shops around?
@arna86: There are no mtb shops at all, few dealers but they are still selling 3 4 year old parts and more expensive than 2020-1 model parts
i buy everything from bike components or bike24 thankfully their shipping is fast as f just got a batch of parts from bike comp and they came from germany to turkey in 3 days including weekend customs took 2 days lol
@Noeserd: Awesome - cheers for that. I really need a few things that I've been having real trouble finding here such as tubeless sealant, a new helmet, etc. I'll get on it over the weekend!
I didn't see the option for internal gearbox. But really that's what's keeping me from committing to an eMTB. That and a battery re-charging system based on pedaling.
They still make a nice looking steel hardtail, albeit with very conservative geometry, far removed from the spirit of their old freeride hardtails. I don't know what changed since I had one in 2005 it seemed like they were everywhere.
I remember having the V1 years ago. SO short and steep (size medium reach around 390 or something?) but soaked up all those hucks to flat. It’s fatal flaw was the use of pivot bushings that would go bad really fast and chew up the frame if you didn’t pay attention.
@bh406: i wouldn’t have considered the v1 at the time for this reason but the v2 is a totally different animal and the v3 is another step toward perfection imho
nothing wrong with press fit. Keep it clean. easy to maintenance. I swear people hate press fit bottom brackets because they read on pink bike that people hate them. so they do to. Yet ive never had a problem or seen a problem. BMX exclusively uses and the land everything to flat and only pedal in hard gear. hmmm.
@padrefan1982: Genuine question, not trolling. Is it really that much harder to press in and knock out a BB instead of threading one in and out? I see similar comments to yours all the time but I just don't get it. To me dealing with a press fit BB isn't harder at all. You need "special" tools for both (unless you use a big wrench on threaded stuff). But then you can make a perfectly suitable press out of a bit of allthread and washers and nuts.
@gorideyourbikeman: I've wondered why people hate press fit too...pretty dang simple to me! And I came up in fear of misthreading the BB a long time ago as I was told if you misthread into the shell your frame is done! Not having to worry about that removed lots of unnecessary anxiety for me. ha ha
@GlassGuy: 99% BMX frames use press fit BB - and it is just works fine with a simple hummer and grease; I do not know why everyone complains about PF? you will ned special tool either for threaded or PF and you will need update either of BB after season of heavy riding
@gorideyourbikeman: I wish I could upvote your comment twice. There is absolutely nothing wrong with PF bottom brackets. If anything they are superior because they allow designers to create stiffer BB areas
@HollyBoni: Right?! You need exactly one special tool to install a pressfit BB. Exactly the same amount of special tools you need to install a threaded BB...
@gorideyourbikeman: maybe it’s my BB92 in combination with my 30mm raceface spindles, or my luck, but either way it’s been the biggest headache of my bike!
@gorideyourbikeman: Though I have had no issues with PF either, I will say that though I don't think twice about swapping bearings on my 4130 BMX, it gives me pause if I need a new BB on my 6066 MTB. Prolly fine but aluminum seems pretty buttery in comparison.
@HollyBoni: Here’s my honest answer—like I said, I’ve had no issues with my PF92, but two previous frames I had BB30 (I believe) and it wasn’t easy to keep creak it free. I also have a second bike with a BSA BB, so it’d also be nice to just have one BB type to keep in the parts bin. I’m also not the world’s best mechanic, and with way more time with the threaded BBs, I’m just far more comfortable with it ????. Whenever I’ll need to knock out the Shimano BB in my current carbon frame... I’m a little nervous. Probably shouldn’t be, but I am. ????
@HollyBoni: check the price of the wrench and the pressing tool at first, at second go to your lbs and watch them beating the press fit out of your carbon frame
@gorideyourbikeman: some of us hated press fit BBs long before we ever heard of pink bike. Every BMX BB I have except the most recent has been a maintenance nightmare and a creaky PITA regardless of how much lube it received. Meanwhile all the threaded BBs I have worked on have been a joy.
@SirLapLack: never had issues with bmx bb, except that u need to change every half year based on wear and tear, also hated euro bb sinve bearing dies every few month especially with 22 cranks, 19 more or less, however still not that much;
Agree on maintaining- for bmx /dj frame u can use simple wrench or hummer no need in specific tools or so
@SirLapLack: i would re-asses your bike mechanic skills. sounds like user error. i have 12 yearolf press fit bootom bracket in my bmx. no creaks. I 180 6 stairs frequently.
I like a nice lightweight bike, but I can eat sensibly for a month or two, ride more consistently, and lose the entire weight of the bike. I'll worry about stuff other than gram counting for me choice.
To me as an XC racer it's so funny to always hear people talk about how "wEiGhT dOeSnT mAtTeR". In the back of my head I'm always like "Yes mate, you might think that, but only because you never actally tried a truly lightweight bike."
And now would you look at that. Most people apparently do want a significantly lighter bike after all.
So Pinkbikers want lighter bikes and don’t break frames or wheels. So, no big watts pushed, no lines sent. But......want bike to be lighter for riding up and down the bike path. Or the coffee shop.
I ended up using a hydroformed down tube, so I'm considering cutting a hole in it to make SWAT style storage. Cable routing could use some work though.
www.pinkbike.com/photo/20056691
@hamncheez sick bike! nice work!
www.pinkbike.com/u/dirtmarchant/album/Ti-29-Blackbird-Prototype
Purely because I’m always between sizes.
there must be loads of inbetweeners putting up with a bike thats either slightly too big or slightly too small.
m.pinkbike.com/photo/19963738
Ha just read your article re bamboo bike - great effort dude. You should build more and write about it - its a good read!
GG Revved Shred Dogg, 150mm CC Helm Coil, 140mm Mara Pro, 29” wheels, XT 12sp, Rat Dog riser bars, Chromag stem, OneUp 210mm dropper, Brooks Cadmium seat, TRP Quadiem brakes, DT Swiss/Duroc wheels, Maxxis DHF 2.6, all parts are aluminum, best damn bike ever!
p.vitalmtb.com/photos/stories/2014/10/29/full_scott_805148.jpg?1414600772
I use all my travel on every ride, wouldn’t even think ofbrunning a lighter weight tire; I already shred these tires pretty fast.
I know folks who have more bike than they need, whatever, it’s their choice, it’s heavier that way but I’m not riding it
Now if the brand shaves 30 grams off by changing linkage design that is very noteworthy.
I swap between a 150mm alloy hardtail (about 27lbs) and a Levo (50ish?) They’re both fun. The Levo still goes uphill fine with the power off - that’s how I usually ride it on group rides (use the power to get me there and back quicker, better than driving!)
Lighter might feel different but it might not feel better. Just because you prefer lighter doesn’t mean everyone else will.
Longer, slacker, "less" travel out back at 135mm, on frame storage, good cable routing, space for a long dropper, bottle bodged into the frame, boost 148mm. The perfect bike! It's built not to break, not to a weight
I do wish it was lighter though.
Good calls on the poles! I looked at tarvial hardtail frame for a while but the delivery date kept going back and the price kept going ip
I've spent too much money on it now to justify yet another new frame, so perhaps an angleset would give me that little bit more length I'd like.
Extra length, story of my life.
But I thought it would be better to modify myself instead.
UK lockdown, garage gym, Zwift and making conscious decisions about what I eat and I’ve gone from 88.4Kg to 78.9Kg in a little over 2 months. Imagine saving 10Kg from your bike...
What would that do to it?
People say that you can't ride older bikes, but for so long we could keep upgrading them so they could stay semi current.
I don’t need 450mm chainstays and a 64° head angle on a trailbike for average trails.
I also have an Optic and the only thing I was a bit bummed about was the weight - I put a ton of really light parts on it and it's a whole FIVE POUNDS heavier than the bike I took 90% of the parts off to move on to the new one.
I am happy with how the bike rides, the wheels still accelerate really well despite the bike being heavier, and that's what matters, the feel, right? I was just flabbergasted when the difference between a trail hardtail and the Optic was that big. I was hoping to get the Optic under 30 right away but that doesn't seem terribly possible without having to go crazy.
@arrowheadrush Sorry to say I never weighed it stock - I frame swapped it out of the box. New C3 parts went straight on the old frame, and older parts went straight on the Optic. C3 XL Optics must be up there though.
Built it right back into a 33lb park bike the next week, but technically it was there.
160mm would make the bike too slack IMO. I won't be surprised if Norco moves up the fork to 150mm in future Optic models. Maybe change head tube to 65.5 (instead of current 65) and increase fork from 140mm to 150mm.
Last fall (after a 7 mo wait for the frame) I built a 2020 Optic size L to 29.5# w/ flat pedals bottle cage and fender. It has a 150mm pike, 800mm bar, 4 piston brakes, 200mm dropper and Assegai 2.5/DHR II 2.4 tires. It’s an adequately stout trail bike but spendy to hit sub 30# for sure. For $2500 less it would be at 32# and nearly as good. No regrets, though.
For my current Privee Shan I would increase reach and give it a steeper sta, that’s all.
But in my case, I'd like both a longer setting, and an "even longer" setting .
I've got a 29'er with 425mm chainstays, and feel like for my height and riding style, thats a bit on the short side.
Love it and don't feel the need to change anything on it
m.pinkbike.com/photo/20105632
Pinkbike - So tell me what you want, what you really, really want?
Commenters - I wanna, err...I wanna, er... I wanna, err... I wanna, err..
I really, really, really want? ... I don’t know what I want!
Geo is pretty good considering the time and no longer feels like it's holding me back compared to most previous bikes. (The exception being my old 2004 V10 which truly was ahead of its time! That's way too slack, they said back then!)
Once I've changed a few beat-up parts (for other working vintage parts, not modern parts!) things will be all good until something else breaks!
m.pinkbike.com/u/sandiegotrent/album/2021-SANTA-CRUZ-HIGHTOWER-CC-XX1-AXS-RESERVE
Side note, anyone posting comments about their 2020 or 2021 bike and how it’s “perfect”....well yeah....
Initially I bought it to handle almost all of the terrain. Being 140mm suspension I’ve raced XC on it as well as taken it to ride Whistler/Squamish trails (no bike park).
But at home, the downhill(ier) area got closed a few years ago and it’s basically all XC/trail riding here.
I would change it to have less and better suspension (120mm) so it’s more geared toward the XC racing. But I feel like only 20mm less suspension will still be able to handle the more gnarly trails out west.
That needs to be a box to tick
with me old bike would have given it a alightly more longer travel fork
I feel lucky.
445 reach and 600 stack on size large is too small for me
i buy everything from bike components or bike24 thankfully their shipping is fast as f
just got a batch of parts from bike comp and they came from germany to turkey in 3 days including weekend
customs took 2 days lol
www.pinkbike.com/photo/19717527
I see similar comments to yours all the time but I just don't get it. To me dealing with a press fit BB isn't harder at all.
You need "special" tools for both (unless you use a big wrench on threaded stuff). But then you can make a perfectly suitable press out of a bit of allthread and washers and nuts.
I do not know why everyone complains about PF? you will ned special tool either for threaded or PF and you will need update either of BB after season of heavy riding
Agree on maintaining- for bmx /dj frame u can use simple wrench or hummer no need in specific tools or so
In the back of my head I'm always like "Yes mate, you might think that, but only because you never actally tried a truly lightweight bike."
And now would you look at that. Most people apparently do want a significantly lighter bike after all.
Wankers.