With the exception of e-bikes, there's not much that stirs the pot like a fat bike will. They have their detractors, and very few riders can or will say that a fatty is their main ride, but those who talk shit about fat bikes have almost certainly never spent any time on one. Salsa is aiming to change that with their 100mm travel Bucksaw, a fat bike that isn't intended to be used solely in the snow or sand where you'd usually picture such a machine, but rather on the very rides that you'd use your traditional mountain bike for. However, with 3.8'' wide tires on 65mm-wide Surly Marge Lite rims, Split Pivot suspension out back and a RockShox Bluto up front, this bike is anything but traditional. Weighing in just under 33lb, the Bucksaw 1 retails for $4,999 USD.
Bucksaw 1 Details
• Intended use: finding fun
• Rear wheel travel: 100mm
• Wheel size: 26''
• Split Pivot suspension
• Frame material: aluminum front triangle, carbon seat stays
• ISCG-05 chain guide tabs
• Rockshox Bluto fork w/ 100mm of travel
• Surly Nate 3.8'' tires
• Reverb Stealth dropper seat post
• Weight: 32.8lb
• MSRP: $4,999 USD
•
www.salsacycles.com Frame DetailsThe Bucksaw's classic looking lines are similar to Salsa's Spearfish and Horsethief models, but don't be mistaken, this is a new bike from front to back. The 6066 aluminum front triangle has been designed with a 50mm offset suspension fork in mind, allowing it to sport a slightly slacker head angle than it might otherwise be able to without making the handling too lazy, and Salsa have also gone with the customary tapered head tube. Cable routing is external, save for the entry port at the base of the seat tube for the Reverb Stealth that comes stock on the Bucksaw 1, and there's a somewhat unsightly stub for a direct mount front derailleur should you want to go the two chain ring route instead of a 1x drivetrain.
Things get more interesting when you go downstairs, with a massive, three-piece bottom bracket section that measures 121mm wide and accepts PressFit bearings - sorry, only fat bike compatible cranks with extra long spindles are going to fit. The added width is required for both crank, front derailleur and tire clearance, as well as to mate up to the 12 x 177mm wide rear axle spacing. All of those numbers make it possible to fit a 4'' wide tire into the back of the Bucksaw with some room to spare for mud clearance, despite having a pretty reasonable 444mm chain stay length. I have to give props to Salsa for also including a set of ISCG-05 chain guide tabs as well, thereby allowing riders to bolt on a guide if they feel the need. A RockShox Maxle Ultimate ties the back end together.
The Bucksaw's Suspension ExplainedThe first Bucksaw prototype hit the trails in 2011, and although the basic lines of the production bike remain the same, the design in an entirely different beast altogether. That early bike sported just 80mm of rear wheel travel, 20mm less than the bike reviewed here, and it was put together using a lot of existing parts from Salsa's Spearfish and Horsethief platforms, including a relatively basic flex-pivot arrangement at the dropout. That first mule was more of a proof-of-concept than anything, but the project grew legs when Dave Weagle partnered with the company to bring his Split Pivot suspension system to the table. And that's what you'll find on the back of the 100mm Bucksaw: a concentric axle pivot that is said to allow for active suspension when the rider is on the brakes, as well as great acceleration and sensitivity. That's pretty much what every brand claims about their design, isn't it? Of course, but having spent plenty of time on Split Pivot bikes, I'll admit to being more apt to sing their praises than some other layouts.
The custom tuned RockShox Monarch RT3 is driven by the bike's carbon fiber seat stays that Salsa claims to offer ''
improved stiffness, better vibration damping, excellent toughness and weight savings over aluminum assembly,'' and the Bucksaw's rear end is said to be designed specifically to deal with how a nearly 4'' wide tire will affect the ride. That means that the leverage ratio, shock tune, and suspension geometry have been penned with this in mind, and the bike doesn't ape the exact same Split Pivot characteristics found on Salsa's full-suspension Spearfish and Horsethief platforms.
Specifications
|
Release Date
|
2015 |
|
Price
|
$4999 |
|
Travel |
100 |
|
Rear Shock |
RockShox Monarch RT3 |
|
Fork |
RockShox Bluto, 100mm travel, tapered, 15 x 150mm |
|
Headset |
Cane Creek 10 ZS44/56 |
|
Cassette |
SRAM 11-speed, 10-42t |
|
Crankarms |
SRAM X1 |
|
Rear Derailleur |
SRAM X01 |
|
Chain |
KMC X11 |
|
Shifter Pods |
SRAM X01, 11-speed |
|
Handlebar |
Salsa Rustler 1 Carbon, 15mm riser, 740mm wide |
|
Stem |
Thomson X4 |
|
Grips |
Salsa Backcountry Lock-On |
|
Brakes |
SRAM Guide RS |
|
Hubs |
Salsa Fat Conversion, 150mm/170mm |
|
Spokes |
Stainless, butted, black |
|
Rim |
Surly Marge Lite w/ holes |
|
Tires |
Surly Nate 26 x 3.8", 120tpi, folding |
|
Seat |
WTB Pure V Race |
|
Seatpost |
RockShox Reverb Stealth |
|
| |
ClimbingDiscovering that the Bucksaw's massive tires allow you to claw your way up nearly anything is about as surprising as finding out the Easter bunny doesn't exist, but it's still going to be a revelation for those who have never been on a fat bike before. It took a few rides before I realized just what I could get away with on the blue bike, and new trails and fresh lines opened up to me as soon as I registered the otherworldly traction on hand. The Bucksaw doesn't ask you to move into an unnatural position to unlock those abilities like a traditional mountain bike does - there's not much need to slide back on the seat to keep the rear tire biting - with it simply finding purchase on everything from wet roots, slick and smooth surfaces, to loose conditions.
Once I wrapped my head around what I could chug up, it became more about actually steering the bike where I needed to go, such was the steepness that it could muscle through. If you have the ponies and the commitment, the Bucksaw has the ability, but you'll need the technical skill to guide the bike through trail problems as well. It's not a slow handling bike by any means, but it's just that you can ascend absolutely stupid things that you don't have any right cleaning, which takes the emphasis away from finding traction and places it squarely on the rider's shoulders. This means that skilled climbers will be unlocking new levels in the game, and those who just need some more encouragement are going to find it aboard the Bucksaw.
| I grew bored of making my local climbing challenges look easy and moved from mountain bike trails to climbing the much steeper, much more difficult moto trails on my local mountain. In the few months that I spent on the Bucksaw, I probably rode at least eight new-to-me moto trails that I wouldn't have considered on my regular bike, simply because I would have struggled so much more. Having the newfound ability to easily clean the large majority of them made for an exciting and fresh few months on the Bucksaw. |
The difference in traction between a standard mountain bike and the Bucksaw, with its 3.8'' wide tires inflated to between 8 and 10 PSI, is clear, but how does it compare to a fat bike with massive 4.8'' wide tires that are aired down even lower? As expected, it was easier to get the Bucksaw moving, and although the blue bike isn't as nimble as a hardtail with a wider yet lighter tire and rim combo, there isn't much between the two when it comes to traction. After all, does one really need more bite than what a 3.8'' wide tire run well under 10 PSI is going to give you? I don't, and I don't think anyone else does, either. The one caveat here is going to come down to snow, with the largest of tires obviously making a big difference when talking about floatation rather than knifing down through the white stuff and doing your best scorpion, and the Bucksaw isn't able to accept anything larger than a 4.0'' wide tire or an 82mm wide rim (
65mm-wide Surly Marge Lite rims are stock) due to Salsa's aim to make their bike ride more like a standard machine.
You don't need to be a genius to know that a bike like that Bucksaw, or any fat bike for that matter, is going to feel portly and slow when the trail smoothes out or you end up climbing a gravel road. The Bucksaw rolls faster than a bike with fatter, softer tires, however, but if you're still going to feel like yesterday was a leg day in the gym if you try to really wind it up. It wasn't leg day, and the Bucksaw would rather just chill out, so I'd suggest popping up a cog or two out back and spinning to the top rather than blowing your wad before you get to the fun part. Blame comes down to the tires, not the efficient suspension, so reaching for the Monarch's low-speed compression lever won't magically fix things.
DescendingThe Bucksaw really should be talked about in before-fat and after-fat terms due to how different it's going to feel for a rider who's more in tune with how they handle compared to someone who's not spent much (
or any) time on such a bike. But regardless of your BF or AF situation, the Bucksaw can be summed up easier with a single word than any other bike I've spent time on: entertaining. And this will be especially true if you're sitting in the BF camp, as long as you get through those awkward feeling first dates and stick around long enough to get comfortable together. Jumping off of a traditional bike and onto the Bucksaw is kinda like the first time eating some strange looking street meat in an Asian country: you know that you like it, but you're not sure why or even what it is.
Saying that the Bucksaw, or any fat bike for that matter, handles peculiar compared to your regular bike is a bit of an understatement, with the steering managing to feel both overly slow and massively quick at different points in a turn. Initial inputs at the handlebar see next to no result, and it'll just keep going straight, or continue turning if that's what it's already doing, unless you feed it some force, but then the bike will quickly switch it up all of a sudden and feel too eager for a split second. What I was feeling is the weight of the massive tire and rim, along with the traction that combo provides, requesting that I put more effort into turning, and then the whole package started to do as I was asking and promptly went light. This is not unique to the Bucksaw by any means - all fat bikes will feel this way to someone who's never been on one before - but it's a bit unsettling at first until you get used to the handling and the bike starts to feel normal after a few rides.
Not surprisingly, this isn't a bike that responds well to drifting through corners or using your rear brake to get your slide on. With so much traction keeping you from breaking free, you're far better off thinking more about carrying momentum than sliding through a bend. That might not match up to how I said it was a fun bike, but you'll be having a blast on the normal line regardless. Jumps and drops aboard the Bucksaw are a bit different in that you can feel the bike's weight - especially the rotational weight of the wheels and tires - and while it is harder to throw down some style, it's a comfortable bike to get airborne on. The front end does come up easily enough to make manuals an anytime sort of thing. Rough, chopped up landings are remarkably smooth, so much so that I'd guess that the bike has an extra inch or two of travel, thanks to the high-volume tires that do well to erase chatter. Watch for casing roll on steep lips or awkward landings, though, especially when running extremely low tire pressures.
And what about the Bucksaw's Split Pivot suspension? Truth be told, it almost felt as if the tires makes it a bit of a wash when it comes to what the rear end is doing. I've had plenty of trail time on other Split Pivot bikes with traditional rubber, with all of them impressing me for the most part, but the Bucksaw simply felt like a good performing, although nondescript, full-suspension bike. Slow rolling tires aside, it pedals relatively well, as it should with just 100mm of travel, and while I'd like to tell you it was both incredibly sensitive and had great support, the bottom line is that the 3.8'' wide tires inflated to under 10 PSI mask what is likely a very refined layout.
| Jumping off of a traditional bike and onto the Bucksaw is kinda like the first time eating some strange looking street meat in an Asian country: you know that you like it, but you're not sure why or even what it is. |
Street meat usually tastes really good once you stop worrying about what you're eating, and the Bucksaw is a ton of fun once you get used to the handling and stop worrying about what people are thinking. Sure, there's four inches of travel on both ends, which would usually put a bike deeper into the cross-country category than a lot of Pinkbike readers would consider sampling, but the blue Salsa's travel numbers really don't have much to do with its on-trail manners - this is a machine that puts an emphasis on fun. It is playful, despite the weight of its wheels and tires, and there are places where you'll be going just as fast, if not even a touch faster, than on your regular bike. Chunky ground full of rocks, roots, and steps will allow you to unleash the Bucksaw, and it'll take off like a scared cat once you trust how much traction and stability you have on hand. The same goes for loose conditions, which won't be a surprise to anyone, with the Bucksaw not really being hindered by slippery surfaces in the same way a bike with tires nearly half as wide would. If there was a wet weather specialist out there, the Bucksaw is it.
Technical Report• You'll need to be on-point when it comes to tire pressure, as running them too low will give the Bucksaw a vague and uninspiring feel at best, or put you on the ground at worst. I found that around 8 PSI was ideal, but any lower and the tires had too much casing roll and bounce to them for my liking, and going above 10 PSI began to take away from the insane bite and bump-eating abilities of the 3.8” wide Surly Nate tires. A single PSI has a big impact on performance, so I'd recommend picking up a small digital gauge in order to get the most from the bike - your thumbs aren't going to cut it.
• I've spent time on at least fifteen or twenty different sets of Guide brakes since they were released, and all of them have impressed me so far. Reliability and consistency have both been improved over previous offerings, and they've managed to up the power without hurting the modulation. That said, this is the first set where I found myself wishing for more outright power, which has to be put down to the massive wheels and tires that simply take more to slow down. Salsa spec'd a 7'' rotor up front and a 6'' out back, but I'd upsize those to at least an 8'' and 7'' combo, if not even larger out back.
• The 100mm travel Bluto is about a thousand times better than having a gigantic fat bike tire and a rigid fork up front, and it went a long way to making the Bucksaw feel like a proper mountain bike that you'd ride anywhere. Having spent a bit of time on a few rigid fat bikes, as well as a few hardtail fat bikes, and now the Bucksaw, there's no way that I would even consider one without a suspension fork. However, if you've spent time on a Pike or any of the latest and greatest from FOX, Manitou or Marzocchi, you'll not exactly be blown away by the combination of the Bluto's Motion Control DNA damper and the 3.8'' wide tire. Then again, the Bluto costs quite a bit less, doesn't it? Call me spoiled, I guess.
• A dropper post makes sense to have on nearly every type of mountain bike, especially the fun-loving Bucksaw. The bike's Reverb worked well, and I appreciate the detailed oriented touch of mounting the button on the underside of the handlebar for my left thumb - most companies use a standard left handed button that sits atop the bar, even if there is no front shifter - but I would have preferred the 125mm drop model over the 100mm post that came on the bike from Salsa.
Pinkbike's Take: | I had more fun on the Bucksaw than on any other bike I've ridden in the last few years, which says a lot given that I've been lucky enough to ride some pretty amazing machines in that time. That fact reinforces my belief that fun has nothing to do with being on the latest race-winning enduro machine, whatever wheel size is getting the most coverage, or the low weight of your carbon fiber bike that costs three times as much as my car. That said, I don't think that the Bucksaw would ever be the only bike in my garage, simply because it's still relatively slow and ungainly compared to a traditional mountain bike. It does make complete sense as an extremely entertaining second or third ride in your stable, though, especially if you like to loosen up and just focus on having fun, which is exactly why the majority of us ride, isn't it? - Mike Levy |
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i think its cool and certainly for some more than most. especially at 5k.
and as for weights and measurements, everyone on pink bike should be well versed in all categories of these just to make your own lifes easier.
Makes us sound so primitive , " how much do you weigh ? " , " about 12 rocks ... " , welcome to the stoneage
+100500!!!
Seems it doesn't matter what is in the bike, the price just has to be $4000-6000.
And this time the price justification seems the FULL SUSPENSION FAT TIRES.
But the bike is interested me.
I was sure 2.35" tires is enough fat for me, even a little too much. Now I'm doubt
I doubt that.
It should be invented really innovatively-LIGHT material for tires to use them FAT for all bike kinds.
The rubber stands still for making the tires many decades.
You're so right. A very interesting point you come to. The final key to the industry drunk-nundrum is being marketed on bikes that are 'fun' when blatantly they're largely nonsense for most people in most places, most of the time. Unicycles, great fun... No point. Apart from one. The circus.
I mean, what are they saying..... Get bigger wheels because they're faster, sell your 26 that's obsolete, change it for a clownbike coz you won't be having much fun anymore anyway when you're having strava dreams about the extra 1.5inches. But you can get out your stupid obese bike once a month to put a daft grin on your face!?
Nah.. wheres my mountain bike gone.. the one with wheels that took you everywhere and did everything.
Seriously though, I'm right there with ya.
The industry bike stable includes a regular hardtail for "throwback" fun, dirt-jumper for "in my Vans" fun, a carbon-fibre cross-country full-suspension for "VO2 max" fun, a downhill bike for "lift assist" fun and a fatbike for "I'm bored with the rest / winter" fun.
What's that, you don't have a bike shed the size of a small airplane hangar? Well you can buy a new do-everything mountain bike, but the specs on this bike are changing. After a two-year period when at least 6+ inches of suspension was required, now 100 to 120mm bikes with slack angles are the most fun.
The good thing about current trends in fun is that my steel hardtail with the bar ends and a 50mm Rockshox Judy, that I use for commuting, may turn out to be one of the most fun bikes ever.
@eggsandb
This is the problem. People are spoilt. (Me included) Kinda what I was saying about the bored reviewer. If you're ever so bored of the other 4 supposedly fun bikes in the quiver that you want a fatbike without needing one, then maybe that's the problem. Sounds like you use one for snow though so this isn't directed at you.
Disclaimer: winter. Any use of these bikes in their intended environment renders debate obsolete, that what it's for. Bit like wearing a snorkel and flippers down the pub could, by some, be considered fun, it's not what it's intended for.
If you want to cry about feeling accomplished on your trails and going faster, go ride a fully rigid single speed bike and do faster laps. THEN you have right to say "it takes away the difficult...and sense of accomplishment..." nonsense.
It's not always about the difficulty, it's about putting that smile on your face because it was like a cheat code to get over obstacles that were previously un-fun to ride over.
Had to read that twice but that's pretty much the best thing I've read in months.
I guess you don't ride with many guys on fatbikes then, cause I have found you will not be waiting for them because of the bike. You will be waiting for the same guys you always wait for. The rider matters, not the fatness or the diameter of the tire. Fat bikes can be ridden very f'ing fast by a fast rider. On that same epic ride, Especially in wet conditions with slick rocks and roots covered in wet leaves and a lot of pedaling and climbing (or anytime traction or flotation is a major commodity), your gonna be wondering why the fat tires are all in front of you and out of sight, or breathing down your neck sounding like a 4wd mudder about to run you over. I've been there. On those long rides with guys on fat bikes, and others not. The fast guys are still fast, and the slow guys are still slow. But the fat tire does not really slow them down like you think it would even in the dry. It only makes them faster when the conditions allow. How often you encounter those conditions in a ride is up to the terrain and the weather.
Its no wonder racism is still so prevalent in the world today, when something as insignificant as your Mountain Bike Tire Width or Diameter can lead to wild presumptions, angst and even discrimination of the person aboard the bike. SMH lol.
Not trying to sell anyone an a fat bike, just trying to encourage people to see these things for what they are. Its not hype, its not marketing, it is a bike tire. Some work better for some things than others, but the rider is still paramount. Hell!, Line choice is still paramount!
Maybe the comparison is unfounded and wasn't the right place or way for me to speak about that observation, but it was an observation nonetheless.
Maybe its more similar to a witch hunt? It's huge tires turned my friend into a Turtle! Yeah and they turned me into a Newt! Burn Her!
As far as the bike in the review? I think it looks amazing and must be a riot, but I don't think I personally have a place for it currently even if I could call it my own. I am however stoked that a bike like this has seen the light of day and look forward to seeing what else it inspires.
Cheers.
That photo of the bloke holding up the "29ers are GAY" sign up while Nino Schurter flying through the air on his 650b was freakn awesome!
I don't want to question mike's skills at all as he's most likely leagues ahead of me, I admittedly suck at climbing and I know pictures can be deceiving but the picture with the tricky climbing caption doesn't look like anything hard to climb on a regular bike. I guess that my point is that I'd like to see stuff being done on a fatbike that would make me go "wow!" and it hasn't come anywhere close to happen yet.
You're right. I think it's untrue. I think you're right with novel. Imagine someone who gets the best bikes chucked at them routinely, tests them, has 'fun' and finds them largely a similar experience. Spoilt for choice? Not much left to experience? Who knows. But one thing is sure, that fatty will feel crazy when you've been riding carbon this, 27.5 that and 26lbs the other. And that kinda wake up, slap in the face feeling, if you're getting bored of riding yawn 'another amazing bike', might be portrayed as massive fun. Bearing in mind fun is just a three symbol noise we spout that can mean pretty much anything to anyone.
Exactly! I wanna see a tight little dj fatbike for example.. coz it doesn't snow here. And kinda coz I don't see a use for a longer travel freeridey fatbike etc.
Am I a convert? I don't think so. I'm a mountain biker. Fatbikes are mountain bikes. Certain ones have more merit than others depending on the trails and conditions. For me, a fatbike was the Best bike investment I have made because it can keep me on the bike no matter the weather or time of year.
A DH wonder sled or a XC featherweight make no sense for me and where I ride, but they are perfect machines for their intentions. Are they hype too?
oh, and I sure wish I could be "bored" of trying out all the latest and greatest bikes.
-15 Fahrenheit? That's cold, but yeah, a lot of people where they experience this kind of cold regularly get out in those temps often. We don't get That cold where I live, but I've been out in the coldest of our winter days/nights which is generally at or just below 0 F. You dress for it. Hands and feet are obviously difficult to keep warm on the bike and are very crucial. Easiest route to warm hands are to use pogies. Proper winter boots along with gaiters and flat pedals are one of the best ways to assure comfortable feet in the coldest of cold.
This won't ever be a 'standard' but rather a niche. If people are going to be angry about standards, be upset with cannondale for coming out with a new bottom bracket standard every year...
My rockshox front and back suspension (and Shimano brakes!) got pretty f*cked up when I rode in -1F a week ago. The good thing I guess is that the best snow riding is often to be had in warmer conditions.
Yes I read the article, and they actually said... "a fat bike that isn't intended to be used solely in the snow or sand where you'd usually picture such a machine"
However, for those not comprehension impaired that means that it is ALSO taking snow/sand into consideration supposedly, except really they did a poor job of that. Had they put any thought into the bikes being ridden in snow, and with snow you need cold temperatures, they'd have spec'ed suspension MEANT for a wider temperature range. Oh and maybe taken the changing spring curve of an air spring when the suspension fork/shock is exposed to cold ambient air with a very small internal air volume for the springs into account and made the suspension based around COIL springs instead of air springs.
fat-bike.com/2014/12/turnagain-releases-extended-temperature-range-seal-kit-for-the-rockshox-bluto
"Rockshox forks are rated to function perfectly above 32vdegrees Fahrenheit, are known to have some performance issue down to 10 degrees Fahrenheit and are not recommended at all for temperatures below 10 degrees Fahrenheit. The new ETR Seal Kit makes all that go away giving the rider full confidence in year-round ridability in all temperatures."
Its currently -18C (0F) here air temperature with a -31C (-24F) windchill, and already one friend of mine has called (at 9:52am) asking if I wanted to go out for a ride. And there are hundreds of folks riding around the region today in the same conditions.
One in a 14 year span = ever year? What?
"The one caveat here is going to come down to snow, with the largest of tires obviously making a big difference when talking about floatation rather than knifing down through the white stuff and doing your best scorpion, and the Bucksaw isn't able to accept anything larger than a 4.0'' wide tire"
i.e. if you want a snow bike, get one that has 4" + tires, something other than the Bucksaw. Your comment references the rear shock, you said it makes the suspension useless in cold temps.
I also agree that they should have built the suspension with cold weather performance in mind. Same could be said about dropper posts too. Fork, shock, and dropper on the Bucksaw will fail once well below freezing. However I think this bike would do exceptionally well in extremely rocky, sandy, unimproved terrain like high alpine, Moab, Sedona, desert type stuff.
Fat bikes are great all around adventure bikes. If you want to ride in variable conditions, to include non-packed snow or sand, a ~4" tire is the only way you're going to be able to do that. I've busted my ass enough times on a 29x2.25" tire to learn that lesson.
Will they win an XC or DH race any time soon? Unlikely. Will they get you across a remote area, with a wide array of conditions, better than anything else out on the market? Yes.
Heres a pic
i899.photobucket.com/albums/ac195/beastbike/20131102_104324_zpsc696c2c3.jpg
There is no need to go crazy with power meters, RR Tests or anything like that, but it's hard to imagine how a fatbike works when we have so little info.
I'm not that much slower uphill, if not faster. It forces you to keep momentum and climbs like a goat. It's downhill that you loose most of your time. I'll bet when I get my bluto it closes the gap between my 2 bikes even further. The fatbike carries way more speed in loose switchbacks.
Wouldn't you reduce the bounce by dropping psi?
Still searching for conditions that prevent me from riding a 29" when fatbikes can...hasn't happened in over 20 yrs of riding in snow, the last 8 in CO.
Sure, fatbikes are fun, but my DH bike supplies >9000 times more fun.
I thought the whole point of fat bikes was the tyres made suspension un'neccesary?
But then MTB is a sport for people with a lot of spare cash, so im sure they will sell some.
This thing costs more than a Kona Operator Carbon and offers nothing more. What gives with fat frames???????????
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jzb8P0zScW8
Shouldn't be a problem on an enduro 29er.
"In my mind, biggest advantage is that the overall outside diameter of 27.5+ fits within the same diameter as a standard 29x2.3in wheel," Koski said. "This means frames, forks and drivetrains can be designed around the same envelope as standard 29ers, with the extra width being the only additional major consideration"
And right there is the part you missed in the bikeradar article, "extra width"... and to date, very few 29er frame makers (outside of the ones doing 29+ models) have considered allowing room for extra width of tires into their frames, since no such tires requiring such width existed or were likely ever to exist for the riding most 29er users were doing.
www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CBOOBBYFAT/on-one-fun-fatty-fat-bike
here is my fully suspended fat bike. Made it my self
Yeah, worked well for me at -5 but at -15 I had that exact same scenario happen to me. I thought it would be a good argument for mechanically actuated telescopic seatposts but I've read forum posts of people claiming they're not doing any better in the cold (they seize too).
Had problems with my derailleur too on that -15c ride, had to adjust the cable on the fly to make it work good as it wouldn't go for the easiest gear anymore. Everybody seems to say that there "shouldn't be a problem" riding bikes in the cold but I don't think they were designed for -15c or lower in mind. In most cold weather riding posts, their version of cold isnt below -5c so you have to be careful when going through those
www.pinkbike.com/photo/11737863
I do not want it to be "the next big thing" ;(
I ride MTB for at least 20 years so I let you guess the number of standard changes I saw (given your age I guess you saw the same). Get used to it and stop considering bikes like an expendable item or you'll never know what MTB is all about.
Did you even read what I wrote? 27.5+ is the same as 27.5, just bigger tyres. Same as 29+ (which is a buzzword for ~3" tyres on a regular 29er).
So by the end of this year there will still be three wheel sizes. Now stop arguing on the internet and go ride your bike.
You seem like the kind of person that wants to be trendy, but is angry that new kit is coming out that you can't afford. Chill out. No one cares what bike you ride.