Welcome to Georgia, mountain biking heaven

Epic alpine mountain biking. We hear it a lot. Epic means big, long, intimidating. Nature at its best. Alpine means high mountains. Clear skies. Green grass. Cows roaming free. Picture-perfect villages, local cheese, beer, and fresh bread.
Epic alpine is a term normally associated with the Alps, France, Switzerland, possibly some parts of Canada and the US.
Seldom Eastern Europe. Seldom former Soviet Union nations.

And here is where I found the purest, most epic ‘alpine’ mountain biking I’ve come across. In Georgia.



A trip to Georgia may one day have seemed an unusual choice – but today the capital city of Tbilisi thrums with tourists and travellers of all types, here to see the guidebook sites, eat and drink like nowhere else, or simply relax in a hipster bar or old-style pub. Georgia is for many an inexpensive destination without the complications of many other inexpensive places; it’s modern, clean, safe, and since the troubling times of a decade and more ago – a place changed for the better. With a direct flight from Dubai twice daily, Georgia is attracting people interested in something a little different.

We were fortunate to have 8 days in the country. I’d hastily organised to meet a local guide, Dato from Georiders, for a couple of days’ riding in some different areas of the country, which would meet the travel schedule we’d picked out.
First up, a day ride around the outskirts of Tbilisi itself. After a 90-minute ascent into the mountains surrounding the city, we found ourselves enveloped in a thick fog. Leaving the car for a 45-minute steep and muddy fire-road climb, we arrived at the top of a small mountain, for a traverse to a famous tourist site – Didgori.

Lunch at the top. In the fog.

After Didgori, our descent began. Dropping out of the fog onto some doubletrack it’s about avoid ruts and sliding on pebbles while trying to keep one eye on the scenery. Glimpses of the green mountains and autumn trees are distracting and while the track isn’t too technical, it does demand some attention.
More climbing and some ridgeline riding before a final descent to Lake Lisi – for a well-earned beer or two, poured fresh from the tap. That’s one thing about Georgia – fresh tap beer is available for a couple of Georgian lari in parks, near attractions, at cafes, and even on the side of the road, at all times of the day.

After 40-odd kilometres and a fair share of ascent with the descent, time to have a seat by the lake. And a beer. Or two.


Kazbegi
Kazbegi is North of Tbilisi, in the Caucus Mountains near the border with Russia. We stayed a couple of nights in this little village – and were glad we did. It’s a haven for hikers and walkers of all ages – from backpackers to upscale tour-bus travellers and hardcore live-off-your-own-back types. For accommodation, you can go upscale at the famous Rooms hotel – or more traditional in an alpine house like us. Like everywhere in the country, food and drink is readily available at good prices – enough to fuel the hikers that flock to the town.

Behind that cloud hides Mt Kazbek – all 5000+ metres of it.


I’d seen the Yeti video ‘trail to Kazbegi’. It was what had first piqued my interest in riding in Georgia. Dato, my guide and by now my friend, said he could take me to ride that trail. That was all I needed to hear – I was in. A short drive out of Kazbegi to a nearby village, and the long climb began!

Water break at the top of the trail


At a stop we break out some churchkella. A Georgian speciality, churchkella hangs from stalls in every village. Looking like sausage it is in fact a string of nuts (walnuts or hazelnuts) dipped repeatedly in a treacle made from grape juice. The solidified grape around the nuts is a kind of natural confectionery that looks odd, tastes good, and sticks to the sides of the stomach. Perfect for those days of endless climbing. And to rehydrate – fresh cold mountain water. This water is actually bottled and sold throughout Georgia (SNO brand). But it’s better at the source.
This was a shorter ride but the intensity was there. After a solid 90 minutes up at a pretty good pitch, it was about four minutes to get back down, even with a stop to admire the view.

Back at the bottom


I’ll summarise by saying Georgia offers mountain bikers everything they are looking for. Unless you want lift-assisted bike parks; but there are other places in Europe you can get that. In Georgia you earn your descent. And with the views on hand; this is not a bad thing.

I left Georgia surprised at what I had found – and wanting more. Apparently the skiing is also pretty good. I’ll be back, no doubt – and more epic Alpine will be waiting.

Big thanks to Dato at www.georiders.ge for making this happen!