Hope Tech 11-Speed Cassette - Review

Jul 25, 2016 at 10:16
by Olly Forster  
Hope Tech 11-speed cassette review. Photo Olly Forster
You're looking at 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32, 38 and 44t sprocket array with a smaller 10-40t option also available.


The 1x drivetrain market has exploded in recent years with an increasing number of brands offering everything from aftermarket add-ons to complete transmissions. While SRAM defined the 1x marketplace with their XX1 group back in 2012, Hope Technology have been playing with cassette designs since 2010. Granted, they started with 9-speed, then smaller 7-speed clusters for downhill and so on, but for a brand so entrenched in the hub, brake and lights market, offering their own cassette was no mean feat and something they weren't prepared to rush into.

And here we are, in the golden age of the 1x drivetrain, and Hope has entered the market with their very own extended range cassette.
Hope 11-Speed Cassette Details:

• Ranges available: 10-40t and 10-44t
• Large four sprockets machined from single aluminum billet
• Smaller seven sprockets machined from single billet of steel
• 11-speed spacing
• Requires Hope hub and proprietary freehub
• Maximum 20% ratio changes
• Weight: 274 grams (10-44)
• Cassette MSRP: £175 GBP / $270 USD / €240 EU
• Freehub MSRP: £67 GBP / $100 USD / €92 EU
hopetech.com


Hope Tech 11-speed cassette review. Photo Olly Forster
Hope Tech 11-speed cassette review. Photo Olly Forster
You'll need either Hope's Pro 2 or Pro 4 hub and a new freehub to run their 11-speed cassette.


The Hope cassette in the 10-44 spread weighs 274 grams and costs $270 USD. For comparison's sake, e*thirteen's new 11-speed, 9-44 TRS+ cassette weighs 333 grams and costs $309 USD, while SRAM's XX1 cassette comes in at 268 grams and costs a whopping $416 USD. Don't forget to also factor in freehub prices if you need one, with the proprietary Hope freehub that's required costing $100 USD and only being compatible with either their older Pro 2 model or the newer Pro 4 hub.
bigquotesThere are other extended range cassettes on the market now, but there are no other aftermarket companies who have made a hub, freehub, and cassette combination and done so from the ground up. All the other manufacturers adapt their cassettes to fit other brands freehubs. - Alan Weatherill, Hope Technology.


Installation

To run Hope's new cassette, you will need one of their hubs, either the older Pro 2 model or the newer Pro 4. On top of that, you will also need their shorter freehub body ($100 USD) which has been designed specifically for this new cassette. The freehub has been shortened slightly since the 10-tooth sprocket has to hang over the end of the freehub. Considering the popularity of their hubs, most notably their Pro 2 model which has been out for a number of years now, making the switch, should you wish to run Hope's new cassette, shouldn't be too hard to justify, especially if your old freehub and cassette have seen better days.

Don't own a Pro 2 or Pro 4 hub? Well, then the switch to the Hope cassette is going to cost you more, but the same can be said of the move for any upgrade to an 11-speed drivetrain.


Hope Tech 11-speed cassette review. Photo Olly Forster
With the black anodised alloy cluster on, the large cylindrical spacer follows.


Installing the new freehub body, or any Hope freehub for that matter, onto a Hope Pro 2 hub is like child's play. Firstly, remove the dropout spacer, which should come off without any tools. With that off and put to one side, grab the old freehub and with a swift tug, pull it off. Slip the new one over the axle and with a nice rotary motion - in the direction of the pawls to ensure they slip in nicely - push the new freehub into the hub body and it's done. The new Pro 4 hub has some improvements over the Pro 2, most notably a new weather seal which needs to be carefully removed. Once out of the way, the process is the same as the Pro 2; just make sure that the new seal is carefully back in its recess against the hub body.

If you're not confident with tools and such, get a mechanic to do it for you and remember to clean and re-lube where necessary. With everything in place and clicking like a cricket on steroids, it's time to fit the cassette.


Hope Tech 11-speed cassette review. Photo Olly Forster
Hope Tech 11-speed cassette review. Photo Olly Forster
Hope's new cassette bears all the hallmarks of precision engineering, and the two sprocket clusters clip together tightly.


With the new freehub installed, the next step is to add the longer dropout spacer which simply pushes on. Now, with the freehub body and alloy cassette cluster before you, line them up as you would a regular cassette and slide it on to the freehub body. Then, slide on the large cylindrical spacer. Once they're on, line up the markings between the alloy cluster and the smaller steel cluster and push them together on the freehub. They should 'clip' into place, but check to ensure that the two parts are correctly engaged all the way around.

All that's left is to install the lockring, which is also specific to the new freehub, and tighten it up using a run-of-the-mill cassette tool. The whole procedure will take someone familiar with installing cassettes about 5-10 minutes, and you won't need any new or special tools, either.


Performance

To get the best results possible and to remove any unwanted variables that could upset testing, I decided to pair Hope's new cassette to a brand new SRAM GX 11-speed rear derailleur - one of the most common 'original equipment' 11-speed derailleurs out there - with both fresh inner and outer cables. A new SRAM PC X-1 chain was also fitted. With a SRAM X01 11-speed shifter at the helm, the initial set up was as trouble-free in the work stand as a full SRAM system, with everything blending seamlessly together to deliver smooth and precise shifting from the outset.

A slight tweak to the cable tension and b-tension screw and that was that. Time to hit the trails...


Hope Tech 11-Speed Cassette Review Photo Olly Forster


I convinced myself prior to riding this new cassette that out on the trail the shifting would be good, but perhaps a touch clunkier and slower than a full SRAM setup. And having another bike to refer to, with a full X01 system in place, I did some back-to-back testing. While the variables can start to spiral here, I actually came away rather impressed with the Hope cassette's performance. It works, well of course it does, that much didn't surprise me, but it's how smooth and efficient it was next to a comparable system made by a company who have been manufacturing drivetrain components for decades - one I've chosen to spec on my own bikes for a long time too.

My initial convictions were thankfully quashed, and rather quickly, but was it as slick as the full SRAM system? I'd say it was pretty damn close if not on a par, shift for shift and up and down the block in a variety of scenarios. With shifting performance decidedly up there, it was merely a case of putting the miles in over the months that followed to see if time spent on the trails could upset things.

Mud, dust, and since I'm in the UK, more mud, and things have remained both accurate and precise, with nothing untoward or concerning. The black anodizing on the alloy cluster has taken a beating and is starting to show signs of wear, perhaps sooner than that of an X01 cassette, but hardly an issue considering I deliberately avoided lubing the chain for a while to see what difference it would make. But the biggest difference is, of course, the numbers, and with the 44-tooth sprocket to help get you up those hills, the Hope cassette has one up on SRAM's 10-42t 11-speed ratio and Shimano's 11-42t 11-speed options. Certainly, SRAM's Eagle may have something to say about this, but let's stay focussed on 11-speeds for now... And it does make a difference, especially jumping between my long-term ride, with the Hope cassette and a 32-tooth chainring fitted and a similar set-up on another bike with a regular 10-42 cassette.

Having that extended range adds to a ride rather than detracting from it, and thankfully mountain biking lacks the machismo of the road scene with their huge chainrings and tiny cassettes. Mountain biking isn't about suffering; it's about having fun. Unlike other aftermarket cassettes, like e*thirteen's TRS offering, for example, Hope didn't go as far as to offer a 9-tooth sprocket, instead opting for 10-teeth, much like SRAM. They did, however, experiment with a 9-tooth design, instead deciding to drop it from the production models as their engineers found that it caused issues with unwanted wear and loading. The level of engineering has to be acknowledged here, too; after all, Hope's founders were Rolls-Royce engineers, and that expertise and attention to detail doesn't wane, it just gets better.



Pinkbike's Take
bigquotesWith six years of prototyping and testing behind it, some of which witnessed weekly changes to the teeth profile, Hope's arrival on the cassette market is thankfully a good one with a product that does exactly what it says on the tin. Hope's decision to develop their own freehub body specifically for this cassette, rather than an off-the-shelf option (such as an XD Driver which they already offer) to boost compatibility, may frustrate some, but doing so allowed them to shed weight and ultimately deliver their own take on a cassette and driver, which will no doubt appeal to many more. And at only 3g heavier than a SRAM X01 cassette which also costs nearly $100 more and has a smaller range, the numbers soon add up. With comparable shifting performance and a sprocket range that supersedes many others, and considering the depth of Hope Pro 2 and Pro 4 hub ownership out there, this could be a serious option for many riders faced with having to replace a worn cassette. - Olly Forster



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MENTIONS: @hopetech




217 Comments

  • + 229
 Shimano XT. When you want 11 speeds and none of the horse $hit
  • + 29
 It's seriously ridiculously cheap right now. If you don't mind a few extra grams.
  • + 16
 @moefosho: 274 gram comparing with 433 gram it's NOT a few extra grams form me on only one part of my bike. Besides my life does not depends on the cassette I ride. For example handlebars or crankset shouldn't be very light to the detriment of it's durability and stiffness. But such components like cassettes, crank's chainrings, saddle they should be as light as it is possible.

@ccolagio: So is it expensive? - Yes. But the difference is big.

Does it worth it's money? - It's for everyone's personal decision...
  • + 30
 can someone please enlighten me why the price goes up so high for an extra ring on these 11 speed cassettes? I am asking from a curiosity standpoint and wanted to know are there manufacturing expenses that drive the cost up? Is it just because it's the new thing right now and people will pay anyway? It's funny that people will pay top dollar for something much lighter and sleeker but in reality is it really costing the manufacturer that much more to make. I think if you look at the production of bike parts from a manufacturing standpoint a cassette is a cassette and the marketing is what enables them to mark up the price. Don't get me wrong it's a business, but I kind of wish a whistleblower of sorts would show up and enlighten us on the art of cycling marketing.
  • + 24
 @partsengineeringbikes: You are paying for R+D. Because 11 speed (or 12 speed, or whatever is the new new thing) is new to the market, the prices are high to amortize the costs of R+D earlier. Then, the prices will come down. The older product (10 speed) is cheaper because it's been on the market for longer.

The price of a product isn't directly related to it's cost of manufacturing. Manufacturing is just one, relatively small, part of it.
  • + 21
 @partsengineeringbikes:

"a cassette is a cassette" ABSOLUTELY not. cheap cassettes (heavy) are stamped from sheet metal. high end (light) cassette are CNCed from a hunk of material. WAY different process. WAY different cost. don't kid yourself for one second - hope put A LOT of engineering and thought into this cassette/system. i just personally never have been nor will i ever be a fan of proprietary design from a consumer standpoint. from a business standpoint, yes...it makes a lot of sense.
  • - 34
flag ccolagio (Aug 10, 2016 at 1:06) (Below Threshold)
 @partsengineeringbikes: i also find it insanely ironic that you have the word "engineer" in your user name. from one engineer to not one engineer, you don't know anything about engineering.
  • + 78
 @ivankvkharkiv: I'm sorry but are we as mountain bikers really that gullible? Let's say you weigh 80kg. That is 80,000 grams. Let's say your bike weighs 13kg/13,000 grams. The difference in weight is 157gr.

That is 0.1688% of the bike and rider combination. That is going to make absolutely no difference to your riding or times.

Mountain bikers fall for every fad out there...
  • + 23
 @humoroususername: I was thinking on the same. The cassette is wearing part so I'd rather add 157gr to my bike and spend the $300 difference on something else as I don't think it will outlast the XT cassette 4x. But it's a beautiful piece for sure...
  • - 14
flag zonoskar (Aug 10, 2016 at 2:54) (Below Threshold)
 Shimano XT will not give you a 10T sprocket. So you'll have to run a smaller ring up front to compensate. Smaller rings do not work well with some suspension designs.
  • + 26
 @humoroususername: How much do you think the average shit ways?..... you could save more than 157grams with a pre-ride dump. Or, god forbid, by trimming down the pro-boiler or love handles.
  • + 20
 @humoroususername: google rotating vs stativ mass and you will see why cassette, wheels etc are the most important parts you would like to have lighter on your bike
  • + 21
 @humoroususername: Saving 157g on a cassette as well as whatever grams on every other component is the difference between a 32lb bike and a 27lb bike.
I'll still stick with the cheaper XT cassette though.....
  • + 1
 @humoroususername: Read my post more attentively before answering!

First:
157 gram ON ONE Part.

Second:
Weight of the whole system Rider+Bike is used in another calculations such as speed races and we are talking about MTB. In MTB weight of the bike is considering separately from the weight of the system because you need to jump in MTB.

Third:
If you save 157 gram on every part of the bike you'll have 1-3 kilograms (2,2...6,6 lbs). So lets see what bike do we want to buy more the one which weight is 15 kilos (33 lbs) or the one which weight is 12 kilos (26,5 lbs). Go and ask your friends!)))))

After all if we calculate the difference like you did we all will ride bikes 26 kilos (57 lbs) and we all will say: "1kilogram on cassette is not a big difference! Are we mountain bikers really that gullible")))))

And also don't forget that in my post I wrote that safety is more important than light weight of bike.

I ride some "light" endure and some "light" street trial on the same bike with endure hardtail frame and I feel difference in 500 grams on my bike. If you don't - so don't buy light parts at all)))
  • + 5
 @humoroususername: True. But when you start to apply the same rational to lots of components then it makes a difference.
  • + 30
 @ivankvkharkiv: that's not quite an effective weight saving: it will costs roughly €2-3 euros per 1 gram that you save. Really expensive weight saving that isn't worth it unless you're a very serious racer on a high level.

@bogdanc : cassette doesn't really belong in the rotating mass category, the circle it revolves around is too small to make a difference. Rotating mass is an important subject with rims, tubes and tyres, but not with hubs and cassettes because there's no length/leverage to create the extra force.

@ccolagio : since when is an XT cassette a low quality cassette? The only price difference between this Hope and an XT cassette is most probably the one piece design on the smaller half of the cogs on the Hope hub. This does nothing more or less than saving weight by not needing a spider for every single ring.

@ivankvkharkiv : I agree on first and third, but second really depends on what type of riding you do. For a street bike (BMX style riding) I totally agree, because when you bunnyhop, a lighter bike is comparable to deadlifting less weight in the gym. But when you ride XC and both your wheels stay on the ground the whole time, than it actually is about the total weight of you and your bike that you have to pedal up the hill.



My personal opinion about this cassette is that it's an amazing piece of artwork. It kind of sucks that you need to buy a new body too (since nobody rides these Hope bodies) and that it won't fit on an XD driver for example. Even though the price at the moment is still too high for most people who are not serious racers, their new cassette design is a step forwards in cassettes and thereby a step forwards for our bikes. Just like with wide range cassettes and Di2 shifting, I expect that one day this design will be used in the medium segment as well, making everyone's bike lighter Smile

Sadly it is out of my price range, but I hope many people will buy this and other product from Hope, because companies who push the possibilities of our bikes forward as Hope deserve our support and we should be thankful to them!
  • + 6
 @Martywild: I'm not taking about every component. I'm taking about one wearing component which has to be replaced every 3-12 months depending on how often and in what conditions you ride.

Also rotating mass at the hub makes much less difference than rotating mass at the wheel rim.

At the end of the day,mountain bikers on 10 years ago were not going that much slower on bikes that were heavier by as much as 10kg. It's a massive placebo effect and I think mountain bikers are particularly susceptible to being duped into buying the latest and greatest.

If you can afford it then please yourself, but there is an amount of people spending top dollar who will get absolutely spanked by guys riding much heavier outdated bikes. We have all seen Richie rude and Jared graves bike checks and noticed that that they go for reliability and strength over light weight. I just see it as throwing away money. Light components generally = weaker components unless it's made of carbon. Remove mass and you remove strength.
  • - 1
 @Mattin: If you agree on first and third then why did you minused my message?)))) Just joking_)) You see, my posts are not about this particular cassette but are about global ideology. Nowadays XC racing include 50cm drops and I am even starting thinking that its like DH 10 years ago. Also difference between needs of "a very serious racer on a high level" and us (ordinary everyday riders) become less and less.

But anyway thanks for understanding that in my case (street biking) weight is perceptible.)))
  • + 4
 Most def! $309 for a cassette + 11spd RD + 11spd Shifter + $100 for Hope Hub (if you don't already have one) = $459 - $559. I rather go full Shimano XT 1x11.
  • + 2
 @humoroususername: "light components generally = weaker components" Disagree!!! All the components I have changed to lighter and more expensive were also more stiff and reliable. My rear hub was Shimano olivio 50$ became (with the frame changing) Dartmoor Revolt Pro 120$ = -200 grams difference + 6 pawls instead of 2 + 4 bearings and so on... My crankset sram X0 (150$ used) instead of some low level prowheel 50$ (don't remember the model) weight reducing = 600 gram (cranks+external bearings+single chainring). So if we talking about both high level expensive components - then yes "light components generally = weaker components" but don't forget to look on its intended use))) If it is said XC and you compare it to DH components than of course DH components will be heavier.
  • + 1
 @zonoskar: I think you have that backwards: a larger 11t cog in the back would necessitate running a larger chainring up front to compensate.
  • + 4
 @humoroususername: It all adds up, 100 here, 100 there... It's especially important on the suspended areas of the bike such as the rear and front wheel. an extra 5 or 6 hundred grams on the rear end can significantly affect performance of the suspension as well as wear and tear on the pivots. It's not always about a light bike as a whole.
  • + 3
 @mattsavage: The price also adds up. $3-400 here, $3-400 there and we are talking about thousands of dollars which is also something to consider. The weight gain/price ratio is not really good with this cassette especially as it's a wear item so you will have to replace it time to time. Not everybody can afford (or wants to pay) this kind of money for a cassette. There are other places on the bike where 150gr makes more difference but if you have the cash or you are sponsored racer then no question go for it...
  • + 1
 @Mattin: I agree with much of what you said. However, I take issue with the statement, "But when you ride xc and both your wheels stay on the ground the whole time..."
I disagree. And if anything, xc is a place where (visible if you look at the photo epics, bike checks, or local racers bikes) less weight is extremely important. It's a race of constantly sprinting to speed, and then slamming on the breaks. The sprinting out of corners wears you down. If I can save weight, I don't have to work as hard.
  • + 3
 @partsengineeringbikes: While R&D is part of it, I can't help but think it has to do with these parts being CONSUMABLES. This is the same way that printer companies make their money. not on the printer, but on the ink cartridges. One cassette and 3 chains every season really adds up. It is a steady income stream for these companies. I'm sure the R&D is more than paid off by now for sram.
  • + 2
 @aks2017: never said weight is not important with xc, it actually is really important because you have to carry it up the hill. (for example compared to road bikes on flat roads, where weight is not so important as 90% of their resistance is the wind if they only ride on flat roads).
What I said is that on an xc bike a 1kg weight drop will be less noticeable than on a street bike where you have to do all your tricks out of bunny hops. Just saying that on an xc bike you have to calculate both your own weight as well as the weight of your bike and everything you carry (clothes, helmet, water, bag).

Imagine that your bike weighs 10kg and you and your stuff weigh 90kg (so 100 total). Than a weight saving of 1kg will not make it 10% easier to go up the hill (as in 10% weight drop off your bike), but it will make it 1% easier to go up the hill (1% of your total weight). Assuming your only resistance would be the weight, so in reality it is only roughly the half of that 1% on climbs.
  • + 2
 @humoroususername: You my friend, have the mouth full of truth.
  • + 0
 Either that or a Sunrace 11 speed cassette. I think they work even better than the Shimano xt
  • + 3
 @partsengineeringbikes: the XX1 cassette, with a completely new process (one-piece unit milled from a single piece of cromoly, half the weight of XTR at the time or something like that), cost $400 and completely moved the bar; now people can get away with selling lesser products for higher prices because they look cheap in comparison.

That said, to jump on the train here, Shimano XT is an outrageously good modern drivetrain, at a vintage price, without needing to swap out any pieces of your old hub. I have been running it for a year; have never (never!) dropped a chain. The clutch is still tight, the shifting is super super crisp, and the ergonomics on the lever are fantastic. And I did the full upgrade for less than $600, including a $70 lightweight chain and a Race Face Turbine that cost at least a hundred bucks more than the Shimano crank would have.
  • + 0
 Got a bit bored with this argument, scrolled down, scrolled down some more...what!? No Waki? Come on @WAKIdesigns where are you dude come and save us.
PS XT ftw. My cassette doesn't rotate when it matters anyway...think I saw something about rotational mass just before I glazed over.
  • + 2
 @ThomDawson: I do own an 11-sp XT cassette but I don't feel I deserve a medal for chosing one of the cheapest options out there... I have also a bit of sand in my fagina after my latest purchase of a "Hope" product that I knew has a major design flaw but I bought it from sentiment anyways and now I regret it.
  • + 1
 If Im running a 32t chainring or even a 30t then 11t simply isnt small enough for my needs which includes some road riding. If they dont want to adopt XD it would be nice if Shimano created something bigger than 42t so people can run bigger chainrings to make up for the old 11t ratio. An 11-50t cassette and 36t chainring would get me interested in Shimano.
  • + 1
 @aharris: @aharris: Shimano XT is available in 11-40, 11-42 and now 11-46. Plus OneUp has the Shark system now
  • - 2
 @humoroususername: I hate weight weenies, but cassette weight is important, because it IS rotating mass - it rotates around ... bottom bracket when your suspension compresses ... This and RD clutch affect suspension action in visible way. That is why when riding a bike with gearbox most people notice better suspension action - the rear wheel lacks cassette, RD and sometimes even a freehub (like Cavalerie Anakin).
  • + 14
 @lkubica: cassette is as much of a rotating mass issue as fatbike tyres' influence on space/time continuum in comparison to a 26" wheel. The Cassette's weight is about unsprung mass, and less suspension the bike has, the less it matters. But to go back to the theory of relativity we must look at our own place in the universe, that is by the keyboard, not on the race track. That's why, when I was wondering whether to spend 360€ on SRAM cassette, 180€ on XTR, I went for 80€ for XT. I could not give a tiniest fk about the extra 70g over my previous 10sp 11-36 SLX. And I am not the only one.
  • - 1
 @humoroususername: pfft you clearly are very naive, we can feel every gram out there, like the pixels audiophiles hear from mp3 files.
  • + 4
 @WAKIdesigns: Throwing out absolute bangers! Haha.

Myself, I'm dumb enough to spend the extra cash on X.01 due to the many much more blackness of the cassette compared to the XT version. Fortunately SunRace has a cassette of near comparable blackness out.
  • + 3
 @bogdanc: Rotating mass of a cassette is irrelevant - it's far too close to the axle to be perceivable.
  • + 1
 @WAKIdesigns: that's what I needed.
  • + 2
 @gonecoastal: keep hitting the wrong buttons dude, prosecco is deadly. You made me laugh man. Thumbs up
  • + 1
 +Oneup
  • + 1
 @humoroususername: I see what you are saying and I can partly agree, but you have to look at this for what it also is:

I am surprised no one has mentioned that this is unsprung weight. The difference between this and weight on the frame adds up as far as suspension performance, small bump sensitivity, etc of the rear suspension. You want everything along the pivot end of that rear triangle (derailleur, axle, tire, rim, hub, cassette) to be as light as you can.
  • + 1
 I missed it, but WAKIdesigns partly addressed this
  • + 1
 @bogdanc: Rim and tire weight make a much bigger difference than cassette or hub weight since the mass is much farther from the center of the wheel. Mass moment of inertia is a function of the square of the radius. Think about that. If a given mass moves out from say ~2.5" radius from the center (cassette) to ~13.75" radius from the center (rim and tire) then the moment of inertia increases by a factor of 30. Cassette weight doesn't make a huge difference. Rim and tire weight does.
  • + 90
 Quit reading at "To run Hope's new cassette, you will need one of their hubs, either the older Pro 2 model or the newer Pro 4."
  • + 24
 ditto. As cool as the cassette may be, I'm not changing hubs to run it.
  • + 11
 If you already have hope hubs (which I do, and a lot of other people do) and you want a light 11 speed which doesn't cost as much as x01 or xx1, and you can replace half of the cassette when worn instead of the whole thing, this makesa lot of sense.
I'll be getting one when my X01 cassette finally gives up... though its still going strong after 2.5 years!
  • + 1
 @Konda: That's not the only cost or problem you'll have, even if you have Hope hubs. You still need to buy an 11 spd rear derailleur and 11 spd shifter; another $100-$150 if you go cheap. So you'll be spending $309 for the cassette, $100 if you need a Hope hub, plus another $100-$150 for a RD + shifter. That's $559 if you don't have Hope hubs or $459 if you do. Might as well go full Shimano XT 1x11.
  • + 4
 @Niner-Life: Who doesn't have 11 speed these days? If you're on 10 still, get a sunrace cassette. 11-42 job done.
This hope cassette is a solid, reasonably priced, light alternative to replacing your existing 11 speed cassette if it's worn.
An affoardable way to keep the weight of your rear end down which will improve suspension performance. (over X01 or XX1)

If you don't have hope hubs, or 11 speed, why are you complaining about this? It's not a product aimed at you.
  • + 1
 @Konda: That's the thing though - three big aluminium cogs. I tried the Absolute Black cassette expander which was also 3 cogs at the top of the cassette - but it was incredibly weak, it wore away to nothing in a coupel of months and the chain slipped under any kind of load, terrible product.

I'm looking at the alu cogs on this (and ther E13) and seeing no reason to stray away from SRAM. Using an XX1 right now, but have a GX on the hardtail and that's wehere the value is, I think - lighter than XT for about the same price, and with thr 10-42 range.
  • + 16
 The minidriver freehub you need for this cassette was developed jointly by oneup and hope. You can get it for hope, dt swiss and stans hubs. So PB is wrong when they say you can only use this cassette with a hope hub.
  • + 3
 @Trailsoup: This is actually the best info yet, thanks.

As someone who has tried a variety of 11s cassette options, the Hope looks like one of the better offerings - I don't care about it being expensive, I am interested in low weight, wide range WITH a 10t and no creaking pinned cog interfaces like you get with all Shimano and most of the SRAM versions. Looks like this might be worth a try.
  • + 4
 @Konda: Shimano sells individual XT cogs too, so you can replace them instead of a whole cassette as well
  • + 1
 @Konda: Can you replace just the aluminum cogs though? Will they be sold that way. You'd hope so, but it doesn't say so I didn't jump to that conclusion.

Also, you can just replace the aluminum cog on your X01 cassette from One Up can.oneupcomponents.com/collections/all-products/products/x-cog
  • + 1
 Get a hope hub, two bikes running them!
  • + 1
 @Konda: why? Some of us use our bikes on roads, on uphills, not only shuttling and downhilling. I have an old 3x9 and see no reason to change to something more expensive and slow (on road descents).
Also: no it's not affordable. You have to have Hope hubs.
  • + 1
 @Konda: M-8000 XT 11sp cassette fits on a standard 9/10sp freewheel, absolutely no issues.... Upgrade with OneUp 45t expander, and the 11-45 range is acceptable, for a lot less money...... Love Hope, but you pay ;-)
  • + 51
 Damn. Got my Hopes up over nothing.
  • + 6
 I was hoping you were not going to go there
  • + 9
 I'd say all hope is lost.
  • + 22
 The proprietary hub / freehub doesn't really click with me.
  • + 17
 @mylespotter: it seems like you need a bit more engagement
  • + 4
 I was planning to get these but then I need to change hubs. I guess my plan is now Hopeless.
  • + 4
 @stovechunin: this certainly hasn't given them One up on the competition
  • + 1
 I hope they make a 10sp wide range.
  • + 46
 sunrace 11-46 11 speed cassette. $65. Fits on any standard freehub.
  • + 18
 And they have a 11-42 cassette for us 10 speed luddites that cost's staggering wallet shattering 40€
  • + 7
 @dragonaut: And it comes it black to keep all the Bruce waynes out there happy!
  • + 2
 Yip. Spread the word. I love the price and range of my Sunrace 10 speed. The more people that buy it the more chance there is that it will stick around, so i don't have to upgrade to 11 or 12 speed. Give it a go people.
  • + 1
 @GumptionZA: I'm spinning my ms3 for some 5 months now. No abnormal wear. No creaks, shifts perfectly.

I'm totally sold on them. Paired with a Saint shifter and a slx derr w/ goatlink it works like a charm.

And is cheaper than the standard XT+expander sprocket.
  • + 2
 My Sunrace 11spd cassette didn't make 500 miles before the third and fourth rings sheared off. Perhaps that's why it's so cheap. I'll stick to SRAM or Shimano.
  • + 0
 @lifeofloon: mine is great, or at least it was, now i cant seem to stop it jumping gears in the middle-ish (the kind of gears you cruise on flat on, not sure about numbers) without them jumping badly when i stand up and sprint
  • + 2
 @GumptionZA: check your chainline.
  • + 1
 @GumptionZA: make sure the cogs are all still attached to the cassette. Worked great until it didn't. Replaced it with a Shimano XT, not as smooth as my SRAM but no complaints.
  • + 24
 I'll make sure I ask the 1 person that I see in the next 10 years that owns one how he likes it.
  • + 12
 I sold 2 yesterday... Ask them guys.
  • + 16
 Everyone and their mum's is packing Hope round here
  • + 1
 I'll tell you in couple of months when change from pro 2 on both this and the new dh 7 speed one.
  • + 2
 @nojzilla: Farmer's mums.
  • + 16
 You folks making bad comments about Hope should do a little research. I use their stuff and I'm on my bike nearly everyday. All seasons all conditions. I do mean all! From derailleur deep spring mud, 3 degree ice covered trails etc. the items on my bike that are the most reliable and maintenance free are the hope brakes, hubs, and lights. Beat the crap out of it. It works and still looks gorgeous. Small company privately owned that really gives an honest shit about what they make.
  • + 5
 "maintenance free are the hope brakes" now that made me laugh. Hubs and lights yes, brakes - not so much.
  • + 1
 Hahaha 'maintenance free are the hope brakes'
  • + 10
 @TomasK: I've not had to touch my V4's since fitting, mounted them, trimmed hoses then bled them, faultless since, just require a pad change every few months, same went for the M4's before that, the Mono4 and the DH4 before that and the C2 before that, Hopes are the only brake i've not had trouble with, if bled properly to begin with you should have zero issues until pad change time.
Faultless braking time after time.
  • + 9
 @TomasK: I was under the impression the brakes were one of the most reliable, certainly more so than many of the modern brakes that require frequent bleeding etc like the XT / Saint system - Just how air gets into my lever on a monthly basis I have no idea.
  • + 4
 my v2's are almost 9 years old now, work perfect, do a fluid change every year. have 2 set on my bikes, both kids have m4's the even older ones and again they work perfect..
  • + 4
 @bat-fastard: yup... V4's on my DH bike and Pro 2 hubs on all 3 of my bikes... never have to touch any of it, literally ever since buying. no hub services. no brake bleeds or piston problems. nothing. best stuff ever. hubs kill Chris Kings on reliability and servicing needs. brakes kill my XTs on performance, and kill my old Formula The Ones or Maguras on reliability. these dudes would REALLY have to f*ck up their QA business practices something ridiculous for me to not want to always throw their stuff on any new bike i buy.
  • + 1
 Agreed hope stuff is top notch. Their hubs are as maintenance free as hubs can get, strong, light and great looking, not to mention that the sound they make warns hikers, encourages you to go faster, and cover up other rear end noises that may occur (due to pre ride burritos). Their brakes are beautifully made and require less maintenance, have better modulation, and have fantastic stopping power.
  • + 1
 @Jrsnot: I was under the impression that modern hubs are mostly maintenance free, you just buy a new one.
  • + 5
 @es7ebanlv: that's the point hope are fully rebuildable. You don't have to by new just service them. Buy once not every couple of years. They keep all parts needed too and easy to buy them.
  • + 1
 @bat-fastard: Well said.
  • + 16
 Hope unpopular? I would've thought it would've been enormously popular. Maybe everywhere except the US.
  • + 5
 Seems like there are plenty around in BC. It's the logical step between Shimano and the pricier options from DT Swiss/King/etc.
  • + 7
 Nice review, when I spoke t the guys at Hope about it earlier this year I was pretty impressed. A couple of things they told me which wasn't mentioned above was that the teeth in the lower half of the cassette (the ones you use more) are heat treated for better life and you can swap out the lower half once worn which is pretty cool. They also said that it worked much better with the SRAM mech than the Shimano ! as stated this was 6 months ago so it may of changed but at that point they were saying it was noticeably better with the SRAM. I was all ready to pull the trigger until they told me I had to have the Hope Hubs (I had just sold). E thirteen here I come
  • - 1
 Yeah, except for the lack of proper grammar. Seemed like it was written in another language and then interpreted using google. Maybe I'm in a foul mood but that shit is weak for such an otherwise great site.
  • + 2
 @h-beck83: hug? C'mon bring it in brother.
  • + 5
 Olly, curious if you have ridden the Ethirteen 9/44 and can compare the shifting performance with the hope. After riding the Ethirteen - I have come to love the 30/44 low gear (I live in the mountains) but really do not need the 9 tooth. I believe a 10/44 cassette would be perfect - no need for the eagle........
  • + 3
 28 front?
  • + 2
 @ZigaK13: Some of my buddies have done that - but it is too low if you race. I am old and fat so I have to get some glory/pride back when the ground flattens......
  • + 4
 I run a 34 front and a 42-10. It hurts going up sometimes. Should probably change that
  • + 1
 @dirtjumper771: there is nothing better than a granny gear. How often when you ride do you wish for a taller gear?
  • + 1
 @dldewar: I spin out on 11/32 but need 40/32 for climbs could run a 10/36 with this n be spot on both ways. we do have some fast descents and steep climbs down our glens.
  • + 1
 @dldewar: I think @ZigaK13 was trying to make a point that if you don't need the 9t, you could reduce chainring size so that it IS useful(30/10 is about equivalent to 28/9.) any way you slice it, a chainring is cheaper than a cassette. Unless you think you can get decent amount out the cassette selling it used, but I don't find used cassettes sell well, personally.

However, moving the chainline that low may throw suspension out of whack. You'll have to do some research.

Another option: Since you are running the 9t e*thirteen, you have an XD driver. here's an option that will allow you to keep that driver rather than having to buy a new one that will only work with one cassette, & get 10-44: www.oneupcomponents.com/collections/all-products/products/x-cog-44t-sprocket
  • + 1
 @dldewar: Every ride lmao. But this ratio kind of forces me to power up the climbs so I like it. It just always hurts
  • + 1
 @dirtjumper771: have you tried oval? I'm on 34t oval and if it was round I would need a 32t for the steep climbs, that's how much it helps me.
  • + 1
 @Uuno: Hey a couple of comments: many of my one bike buddies swear by oval - I have tried it - it does not thrill me. Also I would like it the same fell on all my bikes - that gets expensive.

Point taken regarding the 28 - my main point is that 30/44 is low enough - I just never use the 9 - also the 9 feels a little weird when I pedal. A tighter 10/44 would be better for me.
  • + 1
 @Uuno: I've considered getting an oval! Even have a few friends who love them, but I haven't gotten into any yet. I should ask to borrow a friends bike and see how I like it, because it is quite a bit of money to spend to decide whether or not I like it.

@dldewar I get the reason for keeping a 30 tooth. I have the 34 on there because it makes the bike to the trails easier so I'm not spinning out as much and in my races it helps keep the power going. I think I'd like a 44-9 at some point though. How does a 9 feel weird? Skips some?
  • + 2
 @dirtjumper771:I guess I am so old that I am nervous from my suntour micro drive days of shearing teeth. It is not smooth in the stand and it just makes me nervous. Pedaling there is a different feel that the 10 that's the only way i can describe it. I am running an xtr derailleur - maybe that's the issue.

The fantastic news here is that there are options for everyone -the spinners, the grinders, the oval crowd, the round crowd. Its pretty clear that there is no one perfect gear set based on fitness, pedaling style, terrain and budget, but there are so many options almost everyone can be happy. Compare this to 15 years ago........
  • + 7
 I have used hope pro 2 for years, just a free hub service every spring and fall and no problems after years and tons of kms
  • + 3
 Only a matter of time till dt, i9 and a few other hub brands just make a new free hub that will fit this cassette. Then just like it is now. Choose Shimano style, xd style or hope style. Simple solution to running any cassette you want.
  • + 3
 One up already do...
  • + 3
 Yay, one more standard to standardize on. Big Grin
  • + 2
 It's a joke. 165 quid for a cassette you can't use unless you're running their hubs and their free hub? Which aren't exactly cheap.

This exclusivity is just getting silly now, don't get me wrong, I like Hope and I like what they do but come on!

Just use a 44t expander on XT 11 speed cassette, they're stupid cheap right now.
  • + 4
 Or just buy a 11-46 XT cassette
  • + 5
 Its for the super high-end builds / racers though - I wont ever run anything but XT as it performs brilliantly for the price and I am not racing / rich but if you have 7k bronson or similar or you are racing and counting weight it makes sense.

Different products, same purpose, but for different people - Just because me and you wont buy one and you think it is a joke doesnt mean they wont sell plenty and that other people wont think it is a great product.

Options are good!
  • + 2
 I Wouldn't say it's exclusive, it's stand price for a good hub plus mine are 10 years old and running sweet..
  • + 1
 It bloody well is exclusive! Not in the sense that it's only for certain people, as in they're shoehorning you into only buying Hope, that's my opinion anyway, it's happening with a lot of the big names these days (SRAM XD driver, anyone?)

It's like 'A won't work with B unless you buy X and Y'

It just feels like, a 'decent' drivetrain has to be 1000 pound and to use it you have only use their particular components.

Idk, maybe I'm just poor and jealous...
  • + 2
 Is this the same freehub design as Oneup's? Oneup said - "OneUp has collaborated with Hope Technology on developing a non-proprietary, freehub body standard that accepts a 10T sprocket" - If this is so, why didn't Hope make stamped steel cogs on aluminum spider carriers to cut the cost and make it affordable?

In my opinion, if hub and cassette makers accept this new hub standard, it would be cheaper to make cassettes with a 10t small sprocket.

It's a bit of hit and miss with Hope. They did a good job with going with 10-44 making it better with a lower gear compared with SRAM. A miss because any converts are stuck with Hope when they need to replace their worn out cassettes. I assume that the Hope cassette will wear out faster because the 3 big sprockets are aluminum. Although the cassette is cheaper compared with SRAM, it will seem more practical to stick with the more durable SRAM.
  • + 2
 A review I was gonna post on CRC. They didn't like my foul language, which I honestly can't detect below:

After being burned on two separate Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs, I was hesitant to try another Hope product, but I was excited about the light weight of this hub, it's wide range, and compatibility with my existing (but crap) Pro 2 Evo hubs.

The new freehub design seems great - it doesn't get the splines eaten into like with a typical 10 speed design, and it _appears_ to be engineered better than the typical hope freehubs, and appears to have better longevity. I'm still skeptical though.

The problem however is with the actual cassette - I've heard reports about poor longevity from others, but went ahead and bought it anyway. Now after 4 or so months of riding - most of it in perfectly dry summer conditions - it's worn down so bad no chain will work on it. The chain itself isn't even 3/4 worn yet, but the soft alloy they use just deformed and wore away so fast, it's now a $300 paper weight.

The machining is nice (as usual), it's light, but it doesn't matter because it's made of such soft metal.
  • + 3
 what he didn't say is if you buy a new pro4 hub it comes with either a hope, xd or shimano freehub so need to buy another one. I will be changing to the new pro4 dh with hope 7 speed cassette soon.
  • + 2
 The cassette will also fit DT Swiss hubs if you use the one up freehub.. (new free standard freehub developed by hope and one-up)

The one up only works with 142 axles though unfortunatley..
  • + 2
 This is beautiful, a lovely bit of engineering.

Cassettes just don't do it for me though, as long as they shift and don't weigh a tonne then I'm happy with the cheapest going. (Sub £40)
  • + 3
 Same, although I will always pay the extra for sprockets on an alloy carrier. The weigh saving is good compared to the extra expense but more importantly it won't chew up my freehub body!
  • + 2
 @petehaddock: great point man. Looks awful those gnaw marks!
  • + 1
 Will they offer just the lower gear cluster as a replacement part? This could justify running the cassette, as I've noticed its usually those low gears that wear out first, deeming any current cassette cooked. Where as back in the day you could replace each cog as it wears out on the 6-7-8 speed freewheels. I miss the "old coot" articles in DirtRag too!
  • + 1
 It's not like I have a clue about the bike industry or anything, but this seems like a lot of resources to dump into a new cassette/driver for such a small company. Doesn't seem too realistic to expect people to switch to Hope hubs to run this cassette. I'm surprised they didn't just build on a Shimano or SRAM freehub body. Looks great and I know Hope makes incredible products so I'm sure it'll work, but I hope they don't end up too far in the hole after developing this.
  • + 1
 This article is a little misleading when it talks about the Hope proprietary freehub being compatible with the "older Pro 2 model or the newer Pro 4 hub." The Hope cassette is actually only compatible with the Pro 2 Evo, but not with the older Pro 2. Unfortunately, the freehub is available for either the Pro 2 Evo or the Pro 4, but it is not interchangeable.

I have one wheel with a Pro 2 Evo hub, and ideally I would like to be able to build a new wheel with a Pro 4 hub and be able to swap the cassette + freehub between my XC and freeride wheels. Unfortunately, if I go this route I will have to get 2 separate freehub bodies. If I get the Hope XD driver freehub, it is actually compatible with both the Pro 2 Evo and the Pro 4, plus I can use the cassette on my DT Swiss wheels, too. Why Hope couldn't make one proprietary freehub when the XD driver is the same is beyond me.

Speaking of DT Swiss, OneUp now has an adapter and lockring that provide a 10t small cog for Shimano cassettes on DT Swiss star ratchet hubs. This is supposedly compatible with Hope and Stan's hubs as well, but I haven't found details about using this with a Hope hub yet. www.oneupcomponents.com/products/shark-10t-cluster-1x11
  • + 1
 I like Hope stuff, but I have no Hope rear hubs. This is great for folks that always run Hope, but seems it may always be expensive due to limited quantities unless they make something that works on other hub brands. I already have a mix of standard and XD on my bikes. One bike has a RaceFace NW chainring, Shimano XT 11-spd cassette, SRAM GX derailleur, and SRAM chain, and it works just fine.
  • + 1
 The only minor point of this review I disagree with is the reviewer's remark about suffering. For me, suffering is a big part of why I enjoy mountain biking so much. Cleaning some shit-ball techie climb, driving home with a new limp, or having my co-workers remark on the fact that my shins look like they've bit hit with shrapnel from a hand grenade, I love it. Other then that spot on review. From a machinist point of view, everything that I've ever gotten from Hope has been spot on.
  • + 1
 Curious here if anyone recommending the new 11 speed xt, has actually tried the new xt. Certainly not the best shifting cassette shimano has came up with. Bit disappointing that a low end sram 11-42 cassette with an xt rear mech has better performance.
  • + 1
 We still don't have the perfect 1*11 drive train yet:
xx1 / xo1: too expensive
GX: cassette too heavy
Eagle: too expensive, and cassette way too heavy
XT: Cassette too heavy, and range not quite there
Lightweight, cheap, drag free gearboxes - readily available, but only for Unicorn specific applications
  • + 1
 nothing is perfect lightweight, durable, or cheap pick 2 out of 3
  • + 2
 Isn't that freehub body the same as One-up? I red somewhere they worked hand in hand on this but I'm not so sure. If it's true than you may use this cassette on a dt swiss hub as well I guess
  • + 5
 New shimano xt 11x46 is better no new free hub required.
  • + 3
 I love the craftsmanship that Hope delivers, but is this cassette really necessary? Seems like a waste of R&D and T&M.
  • + 1
 I guess if you already have Hope hubs and really really need that 10t cog?
  • + 2
 240€ cassete! Where are we going !!!! Buy a 9 speed xt cassette for 40 euros, you can have 6 of them for the price of 1 here !
  • + 2
 Have fun finding a 9 speed wide range cassette. I do get your point though.
  • + 1
 @Mattin: a 9sp cassette, coupled with a triple chainring and you certainly have more range than almost anything.
  • + 2
 @es7ebanlv: whats a triple chainring?
  • + 1
 I would consider that if I didn't have to run the hope hub after just buying new wheels..I'm running my X01 until it has no teeth,or until I sell my bike.happy buying new chains/chainrings on clearance when needed
  • + 1
 Bottom range of that cassette has lots of little nooks and shelves for mud and grime to accumulate. I wonder how that will actually work out over time? Still, as a hope2 rider, this has some intrigue.
  • + 1
 I will never get my head around HOW those pieces are machined. Seems like the most complicated component on earth to machine. Not my type of part, but I have run hope brakes for years and this is just as impressive.
  • + 2
 xt 11 speed cassette + one up 50T shark cog +cage! I bought it and it is the best and cost much less. And the range is
unbeaten
  • + 2
 my sunrace 10-42 10 speed cass. was only $50. not impressed with this uber fancy stuff when i can get the same range for cheaper.
  • + 2
 I prefer my Sunrace 10 speed 11-42 tooth - allows me to get all the cheaper 10 speed components, but still with a great range
  • + 2
 is the proprietary freehub body any different than the MiniDriver freehub from OneUp?
  • + 1
 I would imagine so.
  • + 1
 They did work together to make the minidriver. They look kinda similar too. Maybe a quick email to One-up would answer it
  • + 3
 How much does a Shimano 11-42 weigh and cost?
  • + 4
 Around $70 (USD), generally less, and the 11-42 is claimed at 434g on Shimano's site. I have it and it works quite well. I believe your comment may have more to do with the fact that they listed several other options other than Shimano, despite the huge portion of the market they represent.
  • + 8
 It weighs "Who Cares".... And cost way cheeper than all the rest of those Money Hungry companies.

Cheers Shimano
  • + 2
 @orcello: Also Sunrace has decent performance and price.
Hope is like jewelry, beautiful. pricey and not really needed unless you want to look rich.
  • + 1
 I would love it if they made a freewheel for the 7speed section of this to work on the Pro Trials hub I'm eagerly waiting for the full Hope groups!
  • + 1
 They do this on their dh hub.
  • + 0
 @ledg: yep, deffo my next DH wheel
Running the pro trials on my 4X rig with a 6speed at the mo
  • + 1
 they do, you buy the 142 dh hub with hope 7 speed cassette and use the 135x12 endcaps as far as I know but email them to check.
  • + 1
 the pro trials has a shortened cassette
  • + 1
 @nojzilla: the dh hub has an extended flange that only takes 6 or 7 cogs as well. its different to the standard hub and comes in 142mm so can be shortened to 135..
  • + 2
 I have been waiting for this hope cassette for a long time, the surface finish on the steel looks great
  • + 3
 Stopped reading at proprietary free hub
  • + 1
 With the bottom 7 cogs being machined from once piece, means we cant do a dodgy backyard cog swap and dump the 10t for an 11t and fit it to a normal freehub body /sadface.
  • + 2
 They lost me at proprietary
  • + 1
 Way too much scrilla for sump'm nowhere near as good as a decent gearbox. :/
  • - 1
 I'll be sticking with my front mech and a 11-23 cassette for as long as I can, I've been running this setup for over 15 years now. 26/36/44 up front, I'd like all the 8's but no one seems to make them.
  • + 1
 11-23 road cassette, ha. You da man.
  • + 1
 About 15 years ago I thought what's the point of having a granny ring that I never use so I put a 11-23 on and I still don't use granny.
I like lots of close ratio gears and can't see the need for anything less than a 1:1, I never get close to it, I try not to go less than 2:1. I used to be a single speeder before I got bored of spinning out.
  • + 1
 And it's not very attractive. Which shouldn't matter but... That thing is uuuugly.
  • + 2
 They d probably catch more interest if they made it GOLD
  • + 2
 I'll buy a shimano and take a shit before I ride thanks.
  • - 2
 I havent felt the love from Hope's owners, some of their comments towards US riding in the past has rubbed me the wrong way. There are some really great American made alternatives to Hope. Im not saying I boycott all non American made products, but dont insult my home soil and expect me to give you my US dollars. On a side not the new Orange looks sick!
  • - 1
 Trump fanboy I guess?
  • - 1
 @zede: team America
  • + 1
 But the price/weight seems pretty damn reasonable considering the competition
  • - 2
 Shimano cassettes are shit, that way they compare his product to SRAM , not to shimano. Even the XT series it seem like a child do it whit trash pieces of metal. Shimano cassettes are not machined and they are made from a cheaper metal, very weak and not so durable . SRAM cassettes last you at least twice if no more. I have a SRAM 1050 10 speed and I lost the count of the chains/chain-rings I change and it´s like new,smooth,very smooth... On the other hand, SRAM chains are trash and Shimano one´s are more robust,precise and durable...
  • + 1
 Nice, I can sell my Hope XD driver to recoup some money when I switch to this. UK made for UK mud.
  • + 1
 I will stick to my 10 speed 11-42 sunrace cassette. I do not need any more gears and I never will!
  • + 2
 I hope they're kidding....
  • - 3
 It has been my experiance that running a 32 up front and an 11-40 out back, if I cant get up the hill then its too steep and the front wheel is lifting.
Just curious why I would need more. 'I' is the key word in that sentence but Im not exactly a fit rider at the mo. Even riding at Glentress and Innerlethiven recently I was on the 36 more.
Also I dont ride down fire roads so dropping down to 10 teeth at the bottom seems a bit redundent though I realise Sram have been doing 9 for a while.
This is hugely expensive and if it is anything like the cheese that Hope makes its freehubs and bearings (and yes I have had a few pairs of Hope hubs) from then I cant see any longevity to it.
Not convinced but each to their own.
  • - 1
 Slide your saddle forward on its rails.
  • + 2
 @fussylou: More slide your body to the front of the saddle on steeper climbs. The saddle position should be adjusted based on the leg position on the pedal (kneecap over axle with crankarms parallel to ground).
  • + 1
 Hit the wrong button dude @ilovedust. My bad, totally agree.
  • + 1
 @SwintOrSlude: a more modern geo bike with a steeper seat tube angle also helps. I was surprised how well that worked when I first tried it.
  • + 1
 @tigen: I ride and have always ridden steep seat angles, with the seat slammed forwards and the saddle even tilted down at the nose (if you haven't tried it you need really need to!) and I don't believe easier gears will get you up things that are just too steep to ride. I ride up the same things now as I did with a 11-36 and fail at the same things I did back then too. I might go up quicker at a higher cadence but there comes a point when it's just not possible and gears won't help you. I've been using a 11-40 and just gone to 45t for higher cadence/ quicker ascents as i said, not to get me up steeper stuff because I think I've already reached the limit on gradients. Bigger at the back also means you can use a bigger one at the front for the fun bits.
Having said all that I'm still riding the same stuff i did with like a 11-32 X 34t, that was fine back then and itd be fine now, 1x didn't start with SRAM or 10/ 11/ 12 speed it started when people realised that having gears at the front was unnecessary. For everyone where I ride that was a long time ago.
I don't think that more gears is a bad thing, it helps keep our sport accessible and for me it has improved my ride quality (though I'd really like a 10speed option with larger gaps, maybe even 9 but 10s a nice number).
@SwintOrSlude what's the point in having the "correct" saddle position based on some half arsed sports physics if you have to move forward on the saddle to pedal dude?
  • + 2
 @ThomDawson: yep when it's very steep, smaller cog doesn't help. I'd say oval rings do : because less likely to lift front wheel/slide back wheel at max torque (pedals horizontal) and less likely to stall at min torque (pedals vertical).
I'm on 11-36 at the back and I know that the 34-36 is perfect for the hardest (technical) climbs. Smaller ratio would create other problems.

Saddle tilt : totally agree. I tried everything and settled on an important forward tilt, because I want to optimize its position for when I need it the most : hard climbs.
Many people who see it are shocked, but have never tried. Everyone who has tried is convinced...
  • + 2
 @Uuno: exactly dude, I even said the same in a comment somewhere on here about the saddle tilt before I'd tried it "going a bit too far"...tried it and within the first few pedals I was sold and thinking I need to tilt it even further forward. My buds thought the same too. We only really sit to pedal uphill, it makes sense.
I use an oval too, sounds like we ride in a similar way.
  • + 1
 Is this Eagle compatible?
  • + 1
 i still ride my 9 speed x9
  • + 1
 Pinkbike do a review of the Sunrace wide range cassettes!
  • + 1
 Up with Hope, down with dope!
  • + 1
 It must be very expensive...............
  • + 1
 Nice cassette! Now make a 10sp/ 11-36t and I will be the 1st to buy!
  • + 1
 Is the XT 11-46 cassette available for sale yet?
  • + 1
 No such thing as an "outer cable". It's called housing...
  • + 1
 I know is off topic but where the hell is the msa wc replay????
  • + 2
 Will I buy? No.
  • + 1
 Running the new hope cassette on my pro 4 hub. I can't wait to shred!
  • + 0
 I would take that over an Eagle drivetrain anytime.
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