peleton7

Former Expert (XC) and Cat 2 road racer. I like to ride technical trails all summer and backcountry ski all winter.

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peleton7 mikelevy's article
Nov 1, 2017 at 18:02
Nov 1, 2017
Fouriers Quick True Tool - Review
Pencil and a rubber band.
peleton7 AJBarlas's article
Oct 27, 2017 at 17:39
Oct 27, 2017
e*thirteen's LG1r Wheels - Review
THIS is what I hope to see when I see an expensive product review. Near zero dish, a new but functionally sound hub/cassette design and stout rims. Just designing and marketing (almost nobody makes their stuff) carbon rims or hubs is meaningless when there are so many good products already out there. When a product is this spendy, it should be more than well built; it should move the goalposts of product design. These wheels check that box. I don't own a full-on DH bike, wheels this high-end are out of my budget....but I hope some of the technology I see here will trickle into products I use. Well done, E13.
peleton7 mikekazimer's article
Oct 25, 2017 at 12:52
Oct 25, 2017
POC Joint VPD System Knee Pads - Review
These are spendy and not worth it for most people.........but if you're 17" at the calf this is one of the only knee pads that you can slide on. If you have big 'ole hammer calves these are probably your best bet-especially if you're stuck mail ordering decent pads because the LBS (or LBS's) nearby don't bother stocking stuff like pads and reinforced gloves.
peleton7 mikekazimer's article
Oct 24, 2017 at 17:40
Oct 24, 2017
Race Face Next R Carbon Wheels - Review
@clapforcanadaa: LBS has seen several sets that had chewed up drivers. I get that in theory bigger, wider bearings are more durable. Companies like I9 and Hope have proven that conventional pawl-style freehubs can hold up, but I've seen a few rear wheels with wrecked guts (broken pawls and stripped drive rings). I haven't seen a Hope blow up that way since they switched to a steel drive ring, and while I've sometimes seen an undergreased DT star ratchet chip, it took all of 2 minutes to replace the broken parts. I suspect that like Shimano freehubs, the ones on RF wheels are strong enough for most riders in most conditions, but might break under high torque (esp. if the rider is stout). If I was to make a guess, I'd say the smaller, more numerous teeth on the RF drive ring might trade some durability for engagement speed. Also, DT's 54t ratchet is plenty quick. The only way to get meaningfully faster hookup would be an Onyx hub and I haven't ridden on or built wheels with them, so while they have a great rep, I have no personal experience to base any claims around. Even if the wheels I saw were outliers (maybe a QC consistency issue?) these things aren't worth the cash. At $1500, these wheels aren't light enough, or better riding enough, or whatever enough to justify the cost. The carbon wheels I've ridden have been nice, but didn't have any "unique ride characteristics" that couldn't be replicated with a well thought-out alloy build for less money.
peleton7 mikekazimer's article
Oct 24, 2017 at 10:08
Oct 24, 2017
Race Face Next R Carbon Wheels - Review
28 spokes and the same fragile RF driver? No thanks!!! There's no reason that all MTB wheels shouldn't run 32 spokes (meow meow meow weight....only 30-40 grams). Extra spokes mean that ride can be tweaked more effectively with spoke tension-28h wheels need to be keyed up tighter. Breaking one or more spokes on a 28h wheel usually means pushing a bike out because the rim is so far out of true. On a 32h wheel-not a big deal. As for the rear hub-you may have been lucky, but they aren't reliable. A hub driver failure is another mechanical problem likely to result in a long hike-a-bike out. At 1750-1800g target weight, you can have your local wrench build you a set of pretty burly wheels with DT (or Hope) hubs for between 1/2 and 1/3 the price of these. So....these wheels cost a lot, have some design flaws, and aren't meaningfully lighter than a nice set of handbuilt wheels with aluminum rims. I don't object to these wheels because of their price. I object because at this price, they should be commensurately better than a nice set of alloy wheels.
peleton7 RichardCunningham's article
Oct 19, 2017 at 18:19
Oct 19, 2017
Kenda Helldiver Pro DH Tire - Review
SS in the rear has astounding grip on rock slabs and dry, rocky terrain. A most awesome pairing with a DHF or Vittoria Goma up front. However, if the soil goes from hero tacky to outright wet or on wet rock slabs, an SS is a wild ride-no grip upright so you HAVE to trail brake (lean it over to get on the shoulder knobs, brake hard, and ease off through the apex) to slow the rear wheel down. Also, I've been astounded by the durability of the SS-it's held up much better than most full knob rear tires I've used and the WTB Vigilante. I've also had zero reliability issues with a DD casing!! So....for riding on the Front Range, Moab, Sedona or other dry rocky places the SS is my favorite rear tire. If I lived in New England (or England) or the PNW, no way.
peleton7 RichardCunningham's article
Oct 18, 2017 at 18:56
Oct 18, 2017
Kenda Helldiver Pro DH Tire - Review
How does this compare to a Minion SS?
peleton7 RichardCunningham's article
Sep 19, 2017 at 19:18
Sep 19, 2017
Continental Talks Tires - Interbike 2017
Like SRAM-great customer service for unreliable stuff.
peleton7 RichardCunningham's article
Sep 19, 2017 at 12:03
Sep 19, 2017
Continental Talks Tires - Interbike 2017
Conti has the best rubber, but the current tires are crap. Frequent warranties for beads that go loose, and casings that cut anywhere from down by the rim to across the tread are common. My girlfriend walked into a shop in Grand Junction with a Conti Trail King in her hand and they just shook their heads and gave her a new one (loose bead). Conti dealers know that these tires are frail. Back when Conti made UST certified tires, they were awesome. Not light, but bombproof. Now, not so much. Especially with a brand manager in Colorado, they should be getting enough feedback to beef those casings back up!! Also, I've NEVER found a 900g "enduro" tire that didn't get slashed on large crystal granite or shale at speed. There's a reason EWC riders run double casing rear tires if they have the choice (and despite those tires coming in around 1100g). I've had zero failures on Maxxis DD and WTB Enduro casing tires on the back.....and everything else has gotten sliced useless within a handful of rides.
peleton7 mikekazimer's article
Sep 14, 2017 at 10:40
Sep 14, 2017
CushCore Tire Insert - Review
If this is the future, rims need to be made for optimal mating of the tire and insert in the rim. As it stands now, inserts make installation really difficult, add a lot of weight and provide a limited improvement in terms of puncture resistance, tire support etc. Just like it took years for tubeless tires and rims to get truly reliable, this is (for all intents) a beta product and you get to pay too much money to help develop the final, sorted version if you buy it. One final thought-the claim that you can get away with lighter tires using an insert strikes me as specious. I don't wreck rims (at least if they're strong enough-currently running WTB Frequencies), but have grendaded several tires with lighter casings (esp. on the rear wheel). Switching from something like a Maxxxis DD casing to an EXO casing and then slamming through rock gardens at speed is a recipe for a massive casing cut across the carcass of the tire. The insert on the far side of that casing from the rocks won't do squat to prevent that. In fact, if the tire feels more supported, it'll happen sooner. So...like I said-this technology needs to be holistically incorporated into a rim/tire/insert design to optimize function (and minimize weight).
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