Ask Pinkbike: Fork Travel, Mini-DH Bikes, and Junior Racing
Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul-searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand-picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
More Travel = More Better?
Question: Pinkbike user Climb16 asked this question in the 29er forum: Is it worthwhile to switch the 100mm-travel SID on my Giant Anthem 29er to a Fox 32 with 120mm of stroke? Rear wheel travel is 100mm, and the stock head angle with the SID is 71.5-degrees. If I switched to the Fox fork, it'd be closer to a 70-degree head angle.
 | It's less about how much travel the fork has and more about what it's going to do to your bike's handling. As you correctly pointed out, the fork swap would slacken your Anthem but only by a bit less than 1-degree, a change that a lot of riders would call a very good thing. It'll come down to what you want from your bike, however, and I'd recommend the change if your Anthem feels too twitchy at speed, if the trails you're riding are rough and more travel will allow you to go quicker, or if you just want a change. That said, I'd tell you not to put on a longer travel fork if your trails are extremely smooth, or if you race cross-country often and have to face technical climbs while gassed. More travel isn't always better, but it sure can be. Ask yourself this question: will I have more fun, or go faster, with more travel? |
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Mini Downhill Bike?
Question: Milko3D asks in the All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country forum: I'm looking for a fun mini-DH rig. Something that won't be incredibly boring on the more mild runs, but will also be able to take park runs. I'm looking at RM Slayer, Pivot Firebird (when and alloy comes out), Radon Swoop 170, Nukeproof Mega, Intense Uzzi, or Santa Cruz Nomad 4 would be cool, but these are way too expensive. My dilemma is as much as it is on which bike as it is: should I get a 140/150mm trail ripper and a secondhand DH rig, or should I stick to the mini-DH plan?
I've got a Cube Fritzz 180, changed the Float X to X2 with 3 spacers which made a massive difference, but it's still a bit boring on easier local trails and the suspension is a little mushy, absorbs stuff but can't pop too well. I'm an average rider, I do drops and tables, but don't ride at Mach 5 and don't hit the crazy big features. It's got to be 27.5. I'm based in the Alps, there are bike parks around, but I also like hike-a-bike and riding down some not-too-hardcore Alpine stuff.
| You suffer a common dilemma. Many gravity riders are feeling confined to shuttles and up-lifts and are now searching for more versatile mounts. As you point out, there are a number of enduro-specific designs that would handily fit your specifications. Of all your choices, the Pivot Firebird would be my first pick. It was designed as a gravity play bike, not as an enduro racer. It pedals exceptionally well, it's noticeably lighter than anything you'll find in the mini-DH category, and its downhill performance is capable of handling anything you'll find in a bike park. As a "one bike," I spent a good amount of time riding one on some of the tougher backcountry trails in the Pacific Northwest and at home, and it was quite fun, even on the milder sections. Pivot sells them from $5,000 to $10,000 USD. If you are searching to save money, however, you may be better served to buy a good secondhand DH bike for your park days and ride a trail bike everywhere else. For starters, check out the Giant Glory. It is one of the more playful DH bikes I've ridden and its World Cup results speak to its capability. There are a lot of them in circulation, so you should be able to pick up one for a song on the used market. |
Pivot's Firebird has 170 millimeters of wheel travel, DH numbers, and it pedals like a trail bike
Junior Racing
Question: Pinkbike user @MalleCommencal asked this question in the Downhill and 4X forum: Hi guys, I am wondering about some part of the UCI regulations, I know, pretty boring. But can you tell me if it is mandatory to race two years as a junior, 17 and 18, before moving to Elite, or could you skip one year?
| According to the UCI's Rules and Regulations, riders must compete in their age category. When you buy your UCI license through your cycling federation, the category will be marked on your card and you must race according to your license. Unless you have already smoked the competition, the bigger question is "why would you want to race elite?" A wise man once told me that you shouldn't try racing in a harder category, or a more competitive race series unless you have won your current one. If you can't win that then there's much less chance of glory in the next one. I didn't listen to him, and I didn't get very far. Some non-UCI race organizations will allow riders to move up a category if they are competitive. Adrien Dailly did follow the advice of his mentor, Nicolas Vouilloz, to stay a second year in Juniors for the 2016 EWS season after he won his first year in this category. Which paid dividends as he built confidence, skills and matured, taking a consecutive win, then moving up to Elite this year, he challenged Sam Hill to the bitter end, taking the challenges in his stride |
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Member since Jul 22, 2013
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Trail bike & cheaper DH bike. You'll enjoy the trails more and you'll enjoy the DH more.
There's a Tues and a Summum in my size at an okay price...hmmm
My DH rig is based around a 2011 Operator and I'm frankly too busy #stillhavingfunon26 to upgrade.
Slightly more expensive DH bike has got to be component driven...if you're doing it for the weight, you're doing it wrong
If I lived in mountains with ski lifts I’d probably have an alloy DH bike (commencal furious, Tues AL, used 26er) for the abuse, and a lightish 160-180mm enduro bike (with DH brakes) too (capra, jeffsy, swoop)...why don’t I live in the alps?
@Altron Haha, I thought it's more cost effective and more versatile and so on, but yeah, you make a good point.
@RichPune Sweet, I hope my experience goes the same way!
@ybsurf That also makes a lot of sense, and it's been my logic so far (hence the Fritzz, not the sexiest bike, but it was good price when I got it). How's the durability of the Attitude? Do you do your own maintenance?
Yes, pro racers can go faster on bike park trails on an enduro bike but for average riders a DH is faster, safer and more fun. Also it doesn't have to be fixed as often.
You're welcome.
When will this nonsense end? Pedals like a trail bike.....right.
Just call a spade a spade...
Look I'm a huge proponent for sacrificing climbing efficiency for having a capable bike on the downs...I do it myself.
Saying a bike with this geo and build pedals like a trail bike is ludicrous
I celebrate how well these bikes pedal for how capable they are on the downs, but they do not pedal like trail bikes and no amount of enve decals and eagles are going to change that.
Other than that, the Pike and Lyric/yari are the only dropper forks left.
I totally agree, I have a dropper on my E29 and it makes a huge difference in feel, makes the bike feel quick and climb much better in fact I leave it in the lower position most of the time, even on milder downhills because I like the quicker steering old school feel and lower BB, and then I raise it to get rowdy.
Maybe your climbs are gradual, but all of our climbs are quite steep and techy...slack geo burlier bikes just aren't great at steep tech climbs. But as I said, I don't mind suffering a bit on the ups, not trying to break any records there.
Sure the Firebird will happily get up fire roads, but if you deal with singletrack/tech climbing, it's not fair to say the Firebird is "just like a trail bike"...
A very travel adjustable 170 fork (like down to 110-120) would be a great hack for those burly rigs. I surprise the shit out of myself quite frequently on steep tech climbs when the front is lowered. But as you say, anything techy is going to take a bite out of your endurance over the course of a day. I still think that "one bike" is feasible though. Maybe I wouldn't be saying that if I weighed more than the average 15 year old.
Where there's a will there's a way, and I'll always take the grind/struggle on the climbs to smash the down with a bigger more capable bike
Highly recommend 2 bikes; right tool for each job
There are also of course trails that do not warrant a DH bike...
However, anyone trying to claim that on a proper DH track, "you can go just as fast"...well that simply isn't true. And don't start giving me examples where you take a better rider, put them on an AM rig, and say they are just as fast as other inferior riders on DH bikes...the words are meaningless.
Modern trail/AM bikes have come a long way; let's just be happy that if you can only afford one bike, you can at least get away with riding your aggressive trail/AM bike on just about anything and still have fun
Now while I am a proponent of AM/Enduro machines I have both a '14 Canfield Balance and an '11 Kona Operator. The Operator is visibly longer and lower. The Operator is heavier. The Operator is uglier. The Operator feels like your pedaling a been bag through jello compared to the Balance. BUT, once you get that BUFF (big ugly fat f***er) up to speed you remember real quick that even a 4 year old proper DH bike has a lot more potential than the newest AM/Enduro rigs. Longer, lower, slacker, and more capacity to soak up gnar means you've got a bit in reserve when your AM/Enduro rig has hit's ceiling!
Hats off to EWS riders as some of the trails they race are proper! Wouldn't want do a good number of those on my DH bike due to them being pedaly or just plain tight!.
I do have capable trail bike and an DH bike (Capra and Solid Strike, before TuEs).
The Downside: take care of two bikes, have (different) spare parts for both. Also, bring two bikes along if I go on a trip and have mixed emotions regarding the two :-).
I often find myself having more fun on the Capra in the DH park than on my DH rig. Even here in the Swiss Alps there are only few tracks that really call for a DH Bike.
Lenzerheide? Doesn't need a DH Bike, even Verbier doesn't need one. The Capra is more fun in Finale Ligure and even the rocky downhill track in San Remo can be done on a Capra.
On my local "DH-Track", the Yetis SB5.5 (a 29er) feels more smooth over the roots and braking bumps that the Solid Strike.
So, rather buy one capable Bike.
Saint brakes. Shimano drive train. Dtswiss hubs. Straight line pedals. Parts is not an issue. Maintenance, well I love wrenching, what else to do for long can winter?
Also, I might be delusional but I still think I'll have to do less maintenance on the DH rig.
@Gasket-Jeff: Skiing of course!
At least they are offering just frames. 2K for an ally frame is still a lot of money, but it's cheaper than I've seen for other things from other brands.
Personally, I prefer to buy used. Three, four, five (or whatever) thousand dollars is a trip or three to Whistler!
I suppose the question is, what about your Anthem is making you think you need more travel? I'm running my 08 Kona four. 100mm front to back. It gets the job done on local trails just fine (Although it was a bit overtaxed at Galbraith in Bellingham when I went up a month ago! May have been a wheel size thing)
Looking forward to some community input now!
Yeah, that's also something I was looking at!
As for the LSC, I had it dialed, but can't tell you the number of clicks, haven't touched it now.
On bicycles, it helps control input from body movements. Pedaling is a big one. More LSC up front helps control brake dive there as well. Personally, it's helped me for things like pulling up for doubling over things. I feel a more immediate response from the bike.
As with all things, there is likely an upper limit. With too much you'll likely loose some compliance in the system.