Ask Pinkbike: Which DH Bike, Stem Length, Getting Into Slopestyle
Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul-searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand-picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
Gambling Addiction
Question: Pinkbike user explodinglamas asked this question downhill forum: I'm pretty keen to buy my first proper DH bike, either a Norco Aurum or a Scott Gambler, both of which are 2015 models. Price-wise, the Aurum wins. I work at a store that stocks them, so my staff pricing brings it in at a whole $700 AUD less than the Gambler. Not only that, the Norco also a better spec'd and lighter bike. However, the Scott is the bike that I saw and instantly thought ''That's it, that's the one!'' This, despite it not having as good of a spec, being heavier, and costing more - I can't remove it from my list. The Aurum is the obvious choice, but I want the Gambler and to hell with the consequences!
So, should I be smart, save the money and buy the Aurum? Or go with my heart, which is yelling ''GAMBLE, YOU BASTARD!"
 | I've ridden both of those bikes, and unless you ride at a near pro-level and on some seriously nasty terrain, the Aurum will likely be the more enjoyable bike. Both are probably going to let you go as fast as your skills allow, but the big, forgiving Gambler could take more effort simply because it's, well, big and forgiving. The Scott is thought of as more of a ground-hugger, whereas the Norco is a more efficient, playful machine. But I don't think you should listen to me, to be honest. We spend thousands of dollars on bikes to pedal and coast around in the forest because it's what we want to do, not because it makes the most sense or anything due to with applying logic. Don't buy the bike you think you should buy and instead buy the bike that you want to buy. That $700 might feel like a lot of money right now, and it is, but it won't when you're opening the box that your Gambler gets delivered in. - Mike Levy |
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What's the shortest stem you've run and did you like it?
Question: Pinkbike user @Paxx asked the question in the All Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country forum: What's the shortest stem you've run and did you like it or not?
| Shorter stems can grant a rider more responsive steering on the bike but there is more to consider when looking to shorten up that stem. One important point when looking into a very short stem on many of the major manufacturer's bikes is whether the seattube angle is steep enough. If a bike has the reach lengthened but the seat tube doesn't steepen enough to accompany that change, a shorter stem has potential to further exaggerate issues with body position when climbing, especially for taller riders. The width of the bars that you like to run with also play into this. When first stepping down to a 40mm stem (previously a 50mm on that and other bikes) a number of years ago these points were immediately noticeable, while also finding it a little more difficult to weight the front wheel sufficiently when descending—at least at first. The result was more exaggerated body movements in order to get the bike to track and corner as needed, but while climbing there was extra movement and effort required in order to have a position that kept the spread of weight where it needed to be. The companies that are really pushing this forward—the likes of Mondraker, Pole, Nicolai—have very aggressive seattube angles (with the exception of Mondraker) that aim to position the rider in such a manner that along with the long reach, they're able to run a shorter stem. If comfort and efficiency when climbing are key to you, then seriously consider whether the bike you want to run a short stem on is really capable of it, without making you suffer for the other 50% of the time you're on the it (climbing—unless you only shuttle/ride chair lifts). Even with the above, rider preference comes into play in a large way too. Sam Blenkinsop is a good example of this. Sam actually runs a 60mm stem on his large Norco Range, so that he can keep the wheelbase shorter, but he also finds that he has more traction on the front and better weight distribution over the bike by going this route. If you have the opportunity to try a shorter stem from a friends bike, or maybe your LBS has a demo bike with a shorter stem that they'll let you borrow, go for it. It's good to be aware of the potential drawbacks to running a super short stem (rider position, front wheel traction, and weight distribution to name a few), but better yet, it's good to try different things and see what you feel works best for you, especially when it concerns the fit of your bike. |
The Nicolai GeoMetron has a steep seattube angle and long reach that make a short stem possible.
How do I get into slopestyle?
Question: Pinkbike user @georgebooky asked this question in the Freeride & Slopestyle forum: Hi all, been mountain biking for a while and have been wanting to get into slopestyle. Could anybody recommend a first bike $850 max (if that's possible). I was also wondering if to start laying down basic tricks should I go to my local skate park or BMX track? I have some sick dirt jumps near me but they need a bit of work. Any advice is appreciated .
| If you're dead set on purchasing a new bike, I'd suggest trying to scrounge up an additional $150 before heading down to your local bike shop. It seems like that $1000 pricepoint is the sweet spot when it comes to dirt jump bikes that will be able to take a beating and aren't spec'd with overly heavy parts. Of course, your money will go a lot further if you don't mind a used bike – just make sure to inspect the frame, fork and wheels before taking it home, since the life of a dirt jump bike isn't typically an easy one. As for learning basic tricks, while the skate park and BMX track are good places to practice, those dirt jumps you mentioned are going to be the best place to learn and progress. If they need work, well, time to to grab a shovel and start throwing some dirt. Find out who the trail boss is and see if you can lend a hand to get them up and running again. Learning tricks onto a dirt landing can be tricky, and not everyone is fortunate to have access to a foam bit or an airbag, but there are a couple ways to make that learning curve a little less painful. Building a jump with a mulch landing is one way to ease the sting of hitting the ground. The mulch is much more forgiving, but it's also supportive enough that you'll be able to land and roll away when you have the trick figured out. Depending on exactly what tricks you're trying to learn, I'd also recommend finding a step-up with nice wide landing, one that you don't have any trouble reaching. This way you won't be quite as high above the ground if something does go wrong, and if you do happen to case it the consequences won't be so harsh. Have fun out there, and take your time progressing – start with the basics before going for that corked-720 that we all wish we could do. |
There are several worthy options in the $1000 USD range when it comes to dirt jumpers, including the steel Norco One25 (left) and the aluminum Specialized P.3 (right).
Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.
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I have a 2014 Gambler, thought Id try another dh bike (test rode a Glory & rode a Bansher Darkside a few times) and Im still with the Gambler.
(Slightly disagree about the Gambler being a ground hugger, I love getting my gambler up in the air, loves it!)
Sometimes it's just love at first site, and that's ok with me.
Don't get me wrong, looks count for something, and if he's keen on the Gambler, all I'm saying is he should make sure he falls in love with how the Gambler RIDES before pulling the trigger.
@bentown: You don't always have to pay money to demo a bike, try your buddies rides, check for free demos in your area, outerbike, etc.
I just know that I ended up falling in love with a bike I didn't like the "looks" of at first. I've also had the vise versa.
My only 2 pieces of advice are:
1. Cheap gear can be expensive. Whatever you buy, make sure it actually works for what you're trying to do with it. If you don't have the money for it now, it's better to save up rather than buy something that will break/malfunction/hurt you/not fit you. I've re-bought a lot ski/bike/brewing/etc gear just because I was being stupid the first time around.
2. Once you have it, just learn to be happy with what you have. I don't care how nice your gear is, if you let consumerism, jealousy of other people's gear, and "what-ifs" get into your head, you can talk yourself out of loving ANYTHING. As long as you have a working bike, you can always improve and have fun.
Whether you decide based on demoing loads of bikes or just a gut/boner decision... being happy with what you bought is really just a decision you make in your mind, it's not about the bike. I honestly don't think it's possible to hate ANY new bike from a major brand... especially in the Gambler/Aurum price bracket.
This dude better not just be all cranked up over the looks of the Gambler only. If you spend more time looking at your bike than riding, there's a problem.
"If you don't turn around and stare at your car after you've parked it, then you've bought the wrong car" still holds very true in mountain biking for me.
ever tried it on an xc bike?
"The 90mm stem fitted to XL Cambers is as welcome as a fart in a space suit. It makes the bike feel nervous and precarious, especially on steep terrain or in tight bends. To avoid the bike running wide or tucking under, a shorter tiller is a must
Fortunately, the frame is relatively roomy. With a long 478mm reach (claimed) there’s room to fit a shorter stem without putting the bar in your lap. I went for a 50mm number. This took the handling from ‘wayward shopping trolley’ to ‘housefly’ and enabled the low bottom bracket to come to the fore, helping the Camber to whizz through tight trail sections with addictive agility.
The steep 69-degree head angle is a little twitchy at speed. It’s a lively, agile ride, if not the most stable and confidence inspiring."
Can't believe I'm having to post shit like this in 2017. My 3 year old could work it out.
Tell your son I said hey.
Look at every World Cup bike. Long stem. Norrow-ish bars.
www.bikethomson.com/product/elite-x4-stems
My Highball (xc) has 60mm with 680—California hardpack with razor race tires is too sensitive for a 30mm.
Wheel size and weight also have an effect on steering stability.
Not too bad at slow speed, but when things got faster/rougher it was too much work and hard to control. For me steep HA needs a stem of 60mm or more. Low stack helps too.