|Ah, the old upgrade-itis syndrome can strike at any time, even when our bikes are basically brand new. Much like how some of us own fifteen pairs of colorful running shoes despite not ever running, we mountain bikers aren't shy about purchasing components that we probably don't need yet, and some that we might never actually need. But at least bike stuff is a lot more interesting than shoes, right? Your new Glory 2 is a capable rig in stock form, and it even sports the same geometry as the much pricier, carbon fiber Glory Advanced.|
The question we need to ask ourselves is: what about my bike is holding me back, be it from going faster or having more fun? It's not your Glory's 9-speed drivetrain or portly Truvativ Ruktion cranks, so I wouldn't change that stuff until you need to. And while it might not be sexy, Giant's Contact house brand cockpit does the job as well as anything else will. Same goes for the Kage R shock that, while not as adjustable as others, performs quite well so long as your sag and rebound are setup correctly.
I'd consider three things. The first would be to make sure that your bike's tires match the terrain that you're riding. The Schwalbe Magic Mary rubber on your bike is great, but look at what fellow riders are using, especially the fast guys, and ask around to see what people prefer. Next up, are the SRAM DB5 two-piston brakes powerful enough? They might be if your trails aren't overly steep, but you may want to look at something with four-piston calipers if your hands are getting tired or sore. Lastly, I know you said that you want to leave the fork until later, but swapping out the Domain RC, with its steel stanchions and Motion Control damper, to the lighter BoXXer Team (and its much more advanced Charger damper) a will make a massive difference in how your bike performs. - Mike Levy
|The lowest stack stems out there measure around 33mm, which would mean your steerer would still be around 15mm too short. There's a slim chance a lower profile headset could give you those millimeters, but that will depend on the frame's head tube dimensions. The best case scenario would be if your bike has a 1.5" head tube and you're running a fork with a 1 1/8" steerer - you'd be able to run a zero-stack headset and free up some steerer tube real estate. I have a feeling that's probably not the case, but Cane Creek's headset fit finder is a good place to start - it'll walk you through the possible headset options once you put in the measurements of your frame.|
If a lower profile headset isn't going to work, it is possible to purchase the crown steerer and stanchion assembly for that fork, but unless you can find a used one, that can run upwards of $250, which would probably negate any cost savings that you received by purchasing it from eBay.
What about welding some sort of extension on? Absolutely not - don't even think about it. The last thing you want is for your steerer tube to snap when you land a jump because a weld failed. No matter how good your buddy claims to be with a torch, it's simply not worth the risk. - Mike Kazimer
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