Ah, the old upgrade-itis syndrome can strike at any time, even when our bikes are basically brand new. Much like how some of us own fifteen pairs of colorful running shoes despite not ever running, we mountain bikers aren't shy about purchasing components that we probably don't need yet, and some that we might never actually need. But at least bike stuff is a lot more interesting than shoes, right? Your new Glory 2 is a capable rig in stock form, and it even sports the same geometry as the much pricier, carbon fiber Glory Advanced. The question we need to ask ourselves is: what about my bike is holding me back, be it from going faster or having more fun? It's not your Glory's 9-speed drivetrain or portly Truvativ Ruktion cranks, so I wouldn't change that stuff until you need to. And while it might not be sexy, Giant's Contact house brand cockpit does the job as well as anything else will. Same goes for the Kage R shock that, while not as adjustable as others, performs quite well so long as your sag and rebound are setup correctly. I'd consider three things. The first would be to make sure that your bike's tires match the terrain that you're riding. The Schwalbe Magic Mary rubber on your bike is great, but look at what fellow riders are using, especially the fast guys, and ask around to see what people prefer. Next up, are the SRAM DB5 two-piston brakes powerful enough? They might be if your trails aren't overly steep, but you may want to look at something with four-piston calipers if your hands are getting tired or sore. Lastly, I know you said that you want to leave the fork until later, but swapping out the Domain RC, with its steel stanchions and Motion Control damper, to the lighter BoXXer Team (and its much more advanced Charger damper) a will make a massive difference in how your bike performs. - Mike Levy |
The lowest stack stems out there measure around 33mm, which would mean your steerer would still be around 15mm too short. There's a slim chance a lower profile headset could give you those millimeters, but that will depend on the frame's head tube dimensions. The best case scenario would be if your bike has a 1.5" head tube and you're running a fork with a 1 1/8" steerer - you'd be able to run a zero-stack headset and free up some steerer tube real estate. I have a feeling that's probably not the case, but Cane Creek's headset fit finder is a good place to start - it'll walk you through the possible headset options once you put in the measurements of your frame. If a lower profile headset isn't going to work, it is possible to purchase the crown steerer and stanchion assembly for that fork, but unless you can find a used one, that can run upwards of $250, which would probably negate any cost savings that you received by purchasing it from eBay. What about welding some sort of extension on? Absolutely not - don't even think about it. The last thing you want is for your steerer tube to snap when you land a jump because a weld failed. No matter how good your buddy claims to be with a torch, it's simply not worth the risk. - Mike Kazimer |
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Take a look at these unhip. www.pinkbike.com/buysell/941192
KORE did a wicked forged stem (B1B) a while back designed for short steerer tubes. You did have to run a 25.4mm bar though. 25.4mm always worked good on DJ bikes when using quality bars (Easton, etc.) so still a possibility
There's a European engineer going under the name of blueliquidlabs who does special work including pressing steerer tubes and custom machining.
Though its going to be prudent to sell the Argyle off, get another fork with a longer steerer and cut to length once your bike is dialled.
I hope that was clear enough for you...
Thanks!
The only issue I've had is some know it all who knows nothing about what they're talking about, has even yet to give it a try or who's accusations carry any proof... Intelligent! I offered you a free AXIS in 2012 to give a try and if you didn't like it, you could keep it anyway for a "paper weight". I have sold many of these, not a single one has come back to me or a even a bad review, all of my customers are happy with the AXIS. Ask Ben Cruz if you would like a real professional riders opinion.
I guess there will always be haters no matter how other see a different light. So in the mean time, I'll continue to make quality parts here in the USA, continue to be successful in my designs, give back to a sport I love, make some money and continue to grow despite the ignorant depravity of others... you feed my creative monster!
Why exactly is it not intended for DH/FR?
What would be the advantages of a higher stack stem over this thing?
I see it is recommended for XC. Would you recommend it for use on carbon steerers?
If it is designed to counter "steerer cut too short syndrome" what would you recommend as a minimum steerer insertion for this "design"?
Is Ben Cruz currently running this product? I cant find a single picture suggesting he is.
"Depravity" Ha, the irony is strong here.
Yes you did offer me a free one. No I didnt take you up on that offer. See my previous post for reasons why...
Simple truth... I have not tested these for FR/DH disciplines/applications yet... they very well could stand up to that abuse as well, but my intentions are geared more towards the populated XC-AM riders, not everyone rides FR/DH at the same level. My FR/DH could be much more aggressive and punchy than yours or the other guy, or vise versa. Maybe I'll design a FR/DH version just for you...
Sure a taller stack of stem supports longer steer tubes better, especially for riders who like to have higher bar set ups trying to use less stack spacers underneath (I don't like more than 10mm of stack spacer under a stem) also taller stack stems are also meant to support longer reach stems 60mm plus better and maybe less bar twist on impact of a crash. The AXIS is slammed on top of the headset for maximum rigidity, dm stems are short, 50mm or less.
Who the hell uses a carbon steer? No, carbon is not meant to be clamped, even with a plug.
This is a mere substitute for short steer tube syndrome, helping riders save time and money from buying a new fork, or new uppers that cost hundreds of dollars. The minimum insertion I would suggest it 25mm from the top of a headset. If there's more than 30mm of steer beyond the top of the headset, then this Cane Creek headset is a great way to use a taller stack stem. Much like a lot of the vast array of adapters in the bike industry for this that and the other.
Ben is not currently using this, he was intrigued by this design when I first made it public in 2010, he requested one, so I sent him a set up and he liked it. It was an honor to have Ben test my products, this was on a personal basis.
Taller stack stems support longer steerers better? They are better for people who want their bars higher without spacers? What are you on about? Do you even know what stack height means?
Who the hell runs a carbon steerer. Erm....xc riders. The rockshox Sid has a carbon steerer for example. How do you not know this? I thought they were your target market?
You clearly don't understand what minimum insertion means either. 25mm insertion from the top of the headset? Wtf? Your stem isn't even 25 mm tall. Your answer makes literally no sense.
"Carbon isnt meant to be clamped, even with a plug?" Then how do carbon bars work? Or seatubes? Or steerers for that matter, seeing as they are all quite common....
I had a Domain 318 as a "back up" fork for my Banshee Wildcard during the era that the Lyric 2-step were 'having issues', my Lyric spent more time being fixed than ridden
Domain was a solid performer and good on big hits, but suffered on high speed repeated hits.
ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb2229416/p4pb2229416.jpg
Lyric was night and day different in terms of damper when riding fast on bad terrain
ep1.pinkbike.org/p4pb1970040/p4pb1970040.jpg
Steel stanchions on Domain were noticeably stiffer than same diameter alloy stanchions on Lyric, but obviously heavier - probably worth the weight penalty for abusive riding and heavy riders.
Different internal leg diameter due to the materials wall thickness meant we couldn't figure out how to drop Lyric guts into Domain chassis.
"I am, but spending money is just so much fun." That sums it up right there.
Anyway, if you want I can ask him what kind of football it was...
Get rid of those DB5s yesterday. Great brake, but not for me this application.
Brakes definitely. Those SRAMdb5 really have no place on a dh bike! The shimano ZEE brakes work awsome and can be had online for very cheap. Can use your existing rotors to save some coin too. Contact points on any bike are important. Grips especially can be a big improvement for very little $$. Leave the rear shock, its capable. Going to a cane creek on the rear could be a case of be careful what you wish for. Whilst awsome if set up well they do have a very large margin for getting it wrong with all that adjustment. I had a db inline and it took a while to get it nice and I'd like to think im relatively experienced in such matters. Unless your like a giraffe on roller skates run those tyres until their dead then pick some new ones. Theyre good tyres period as long as the conditions your riding in are appropriate. Now forks are a big outlay. But are going to improve things alot. Do some research on upgrading cartridge first. Avalanche, push etc. Im not sure if its possible but could a charger cartridge be dropped straight in?? Leave the forks until last though and get the more cost effective upgrades done first. Do one upgrade at a time so you can feel the difference and make a subjective evaluation! !
www.pinkbike.com/buysell/941192
The shortest FSA stem has a 28mm steerer clamp stack height (SL-K Drop).
Does your headtube have 8mm of extra length?
get a double crown steerer from buy/sell or from older fork with a long enough steerer, take it to your local machining shop to pull it out of crown. and press fit it to yours after pulling yours too out. machine it if necessary to fit properly.
www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=3&pk=2629
You guys suck
My experiences with SRAM:
X7 derailleur - the bottom adjuster screw screwed the cage after 3 months of use,
X9 derailleur - fine
Code brakes - bleeding almost after every bikepark visit, very good stopping power, but I killed both levers really easily at mounting to matchmaker mounts (I went through 2 pairs and both had the same problem) - note that was cause by light crash to tree
Experiences with Shimano:
M820 derailleur with clutch - like swiss watches and partially fix chainslap
M810 brakes - superb stopping power, nice lever feel, no bleeding yet
M820 brakes - superb stopping power; the lever is awesomely shaped, but I will prefer a bit stiffer material; both came poorly bled, bled them once and I did not touched them yet (6 months of use)
I tend to be pretty hard on brakes as my weight is increased by 15kgs after injury to total of 90kgs.
Saw this comment and immediately knew it was from Levy. Can you please refrain from using (even semi) disparaging comments about women (even if you date them)? Please and thank you. Some of us still remember the Batty affair.
Glad you immediately recognized my writing! I changed the line, despite it not being disparaging in the slightest. It was an example of how we buy stuff we don't need, nothing more. If I had used a male example and fishing poles to get the same point across, you likely wouldn't have said anything about it. Facts: she owns a lot of running shoes that she doesn't wear, and my buddy owns a lot of fishing poles that he doesn't use. Move along.
@mikelevy Saw this comment and immediately knew it came from a member of the (victim as a lifestyle) cupcake movement. Can you please refrain from changing your writing to appease their need for a safe space on the internet? Please and thank you.