The scenario where the shifting is perfect at one end of the range, but not so hot at the other has to be one of the most frustrating things for a home mechanic. This headache is usually caused by one of two things: either a slightly bent derailleur hanger, or contaminated shift cable and housing that's keeping the shifting from feeling consistent. Because you described your issue as happening when shifting up to a larger cog, and also mentioned that you spotted an angle to the derailleur itself, it's pretty likely that you're dealing things being out of alignment. It's far more common for the hanger to be bent slightly rather than the derailleur - hangers are made to do exactly that - and when you say that you can see your derailleur isn't straight, what you're probably seeing is actually an extension of the hanger itself being bent. If it's out of alignment a small amount, it will cause the issues you've described above. Using your hand to pull the derailleur until it seems straight is not the correct way to go about repairing this, as you need to isolate the hanger by removing the derailleur and bolting on a hanger alignment gauge that uses your rim and an adjustable feeler gauge that tells you how much to pull it over. These tools are not inexpensive, but you can have a look at this old Tech Tuesday from 2010 if you'd like to have a go yourself, or just take it to your local bike shop and pay the professionals to do it. The other, less expensive option is to just buy a new derailleur hanger, and it never hurts to have a spare. - Mike Levy |
Scott's Genius LT 700 Tuned gives up a little in the descending department over some dedicated enduro machines like the Canyon Strive, Santa Cruz Nomad, and Yeti SB6c, but in the hands of a good bike handler (like I assume you are from the wording of your question), it will make short work of "fast, rocky, rooty, technical single track with plenty of jumps, big ass rollers and 6 plus foot drops." Few, if any all-mountain trail bikes in the 170-millimeter-travel class can touch the Scott's 27-pound weight figure, and its Twinloc remote suspension, combined with its steep seat angle, offer a measurable advantage for technical climbing. Flip the lever to "traction" and it reduces the rear travel and firms up the spring, so the tail-end won't sag and your body will remain in a more power-friendly position over the bike. If the Scott seems like too much of a compromise towards climbing, then I suggest you test ride the Nomad. It strikes a very good balance between technical ups and downs. - RC |
Coil sprung rear shocks may be trending in the enduro world, but I would highly recommend against running a dual crown fork. Why? In addition to the additional weight (a BoXXer Team weighs roughly two pounds more than a Pike), that limited turning radius is going to be a detriment on certain tracks. Enduro race courses tend to be twistier and tighter than a full-blown downhill track, and you'll want all the help you can get navigating around those sharp corners. I'd recommend selling the BoXXer and replacing it with a single crown fork, something like a Fox 36 or a RockShox Lyrik, both proven performers that are available with 180mm of travel. You don't mention what bike you're purchasing, but if it's the Specialized Enduro, one of the few bikes I can think of that has that much travel and an Ohlins shock, you'll want to budget for a dropper post, and more than likely swap the 36 tooth chainring out for something a little more pedal-friendly. - Mike Kazimer |
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fotos.mtb-news.de/p/1868069?photo=280433
way ahead of you man
I'd ride that.
YT Capra - the top-level spec is similar MSRP to Enduro Expert EVO and exponentially better on many levels.
No one has mentioned yet, but the Enduro Evo spec has overall poor parts for Enduro racing - general part spec not friendly to uphill pedalling / enduro racing: Big chainring, 11-36 10spd cassette, heavy DH rims... Also terrible company, sub-par products, outdated frame. Do some simple research, who has all-external routing, mostly alloy, at that price-point anymore? Qualified verdict = not worth the money, spend it elsewhere... Or wait till Spec updates their circa 2010 Enduro frameset - why anyone still buys these at full price with other options available blows my mind.
Having tested numerous VPP bikes (ie Bronson, Nomad) against 4-bar systems I've always ended preferring the latter. YT agrees which is why they have a horst-link minus the ability to put a water bottle in your frame. Yes I own an Enduro and no I didn't pay full-price for it. Side note: internal cable routing and alloy doesn't mean a bike is inferior.
www.pinkbike.com/video/410174
However - doing something "because Gravesy does it" might be the worst reason ever, as the guy isn't mortal.
I never used to care about climbing ability till I jumped on the process and realised climbing can actually be enjoyable/rewarding. Best part is the process does great on the downhill ( previously ridden Giant Reigns and Specialized Enduros ( both 26'er versions.)
Been riding my process 153 for about 6 months and still loving it.
It very well could be (especially if it used to shift well), but don't forget it could be a bad chain line (if you've just put on new cranks or different brand chain rings).
So before bending hangers or derailleur cages check what's going on at the cranks... Is your chainline right? And what front ring are you in when the derailleur looks bent (if you have a double or triple ring up front).
And yet here we are, commenting on a post about AM technical climbing.
I've been hating on specialized since 1985. Powerful marketing and expensive products. Remember their Turbo tires? The brain shock?
And I went and researched dropper posts two years ago and ended up with a used control post and its been wonderful.
And I just went shopping last week for a new seat so I can spend the winter on a trainer without my jimmy going numb. Tried out 4 seats (take home and try) and by far the most comfortable for me was the Phenom Comp. I'm still shaking my head at that because the local spesh shop is just so clueless and I hate giving them money.
Anyhoo, finding myself happy with two of their parts is making me rethink my dis-spesh-like. I'll now probably consider them when I need a new bike because someone there is doing things well.
I had a very strong dislike for specialized as well, but i liked the specialized shop the best.
I only tried specialized tires and saddles because the specialized shop guys are badasses and gave me a money back guarantee. I liked them so much i never returned them and then bought phenoms for all my bikes.
They also happen to have santacruz, so when i ended up getting my nomad from them i asked them about getting a lighter/wider wheelset. (I got the cheapest x1 build at the time) they recommended the roval traverse fattie aluminum rims. Same deal, offered a money back guarantee so i tried them. They've also been super awesome.
When i got my swat water bottle cage and chainbreaker topcap they were a neat idea. When i need them on the trail they're irreplaceable.
My specialized ryme shoes were the best fitting and most comfortable shoes ive ever tried.
Specialized seems to have some awesome stuff lately and they have the best warranty.
Still can't bring myself to buy a specialized bike, though. Their proprietary standards can go to hell.
Your tire argument is a joke. Your mad because they put their logo on their products? What do you run, Maxxis? What does it say on the side of their tires? In big yellow letters.