Ask Pinkbike: XX1 Chain Problems, Type 2 Clutch Adjustment, Triple to Double Chainrings, and 60mm Direct-Mount DH Stems

Apr 1, 2015 at 11:34
by Pinkbike Staff  
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Here at Pinkbike we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.

XX1 Troubles

Question: Pinkbike user bootch70 asked this question in the all-mountain, enduro and cross-country: I have an Intense Tracer T275 with a SRAM XX1 drivetrain and I occasionally drop my chain. What's weird, though, is that it falls off when riding really mellow sections of trail, but it stays put when I am bashing through a rock garden. I can't figure out why it's coming off - any ideas? My second question is which chain guide would work for this setup? I'm looking for something with minimal pedalling resistance and that holds the top and bottom of chain.

bigquotesThe first thing to know is that not everyone is going to be able to run SRAM's single-ring drivetrain without a chain guide and not have the odd dropped chain, despite there being reviews out there (including from myself) that constantly mention not suffering from that issue. I think that I've personally only dropped a chain maybe four or five times when running a stock SRAM single-ring setup since the first XX1 group was released, which I'm okay with, but everything has to be adjusted correctly and not worn out for it to perform at its best. I'd immediately suspect that the clutch in your derailleur has gone awry, which isn't unheard of, that your narrow/wide chain ring is worn out, or that your chain is a few links too long (does the chain fall off when you're using the smaller cogs, and therefore there's less chain tension?).

Alternately, you may just be the type of rider that should be using some sort of chain guide. Some people, especially those who are pushing hard and going fast over rough terrain, are just always going to need some sort of chain guide, which is something that SRAM has never denied. I doubt that you need a full-sized chain guide with both top and bottom rollers/sliders, though, and I'd recommend looking at the 1X from MRP or e*thirteen's XCX minimalist, both of which are upper-slider only guides.
- Mike Levy

Mike Levy testing the Specialized Enduro 29er in Sedona. Photo by Colin Meagher

Many riders can use a single-ring drivetrain without a chain guide, but not all.

Type 2 Derailleur Clutch Adjustment?

Question: D-Danger asks in the Mechanic's Lounge Forum: Has anyone with a SRAM clutch mech experienced any problems with them? My X0 now acts like a regular rear derailleur (lots of chain slap). Is this problem fixable? Many thanks in advance.

bigquotesI've had this issue crop up on a number of test bikes, usually after the first few rides. Luckily, there's a quick and easy solution, but before reading any further, keep in mind that this method isn't fully endorsed by SRAM - there's no mention of adjusting the clutch in any of their maintenance manuals. Basically, if you break something, it's your own fault. Also note that this procedure is only for Type 2 derailleurs, not the recently introduced Type 2.1.

With that out of the way, here's what to do. First, pry the plastic dust cover off the clutch mechanism with a razor knife or a thin flat head screwdriver (the words "Roller Bearing Clutch Type 2" are printed around it). Next, take a T55 torx wrench (an 8mm hex will work in a pinch), and rotate the bolt that the dust cap was hiding 1/4 to 1/2 turn clockwise to start. Move the derailleur cage forward to gauge how much tension is on it, and adjust accordingly. Too much tension and your shifting will be adversely affected, and too little and you'll still have that chain slap problem. Once there's enough tension for your liking, pop the plastic cap back on if you didn't mangle it too badly removing it, and you're all set. If you need to do a more extensive overhaul, last year's Tech Spotlight article contains more detailed instructions.
- Mike Kazimer

Type II derailleur clutch
A T55 torx wrench is all that's needed to add more tension to a Type 2 rear derailleur's clutch mechanism.

Converting From a Triple to a Double Crankset

Question: Mikechap4 asks in the All Mountain and Cross-Country Forum: I have a Trek Fuel EX8, running a full Shimano XT setup and I am looking to swap it from 3x9 to 2x9 or 2x10. What front chain ring sizes and are best for me to use and is there anything to bear in mind? Is 2x9 worth having, as it means I don't have to touch the back? Or, should I scrap the idea of working with what I've got and buy a complete new 2x10 setup?

bigquotesThe 2014 Trek EX8s were ten-speeds with 29-inch wheels, while the '13 and earlier EX8s had 26-inch wheels. I would suggest running a 22 by 34-tooth combination if your bike is a 29er and a 24 by 38-tooth combination if it has 26-inch wheels. Because you are dropping the outer chainring, you will need to purchase shorter chainring bolts to compensate for the change, or add a bash ring in place of the 42 to make up for the spacing error. You will be running the larger sprocket on the inside position of the crank spider in either case. Keep your nine-speed cassette if it is fresh, because switching to a ten-speed setup will be expensive. You'll be buying a a new chain, rear mech, cassette, and a right-side shift lever in addition to your new chainrings.

If you do want to pop for an all-new drivetain, however, I'd upgrade to an XT Shimano Shadow Plus rear mech so you will have the chain control advantages of its one-way clutch. Most aftermarket chainrings will only be available in ten-speed widths, so you will need a ten-speed chain even if you keep your nine-speed setup. Chainrings with matching shift ramps (very important) are available at a fair price from Race Face. If you are going to the trouble of upgrading to ten speed, however, I'd strongly consider switching to a one-by drivetrain using a 42-tooth cassette extender from the likes of OneUp or a Wolf Tooth, in addition to either a OneUp RAD cage or a Wolf Tooth Goat link hanger adapter for the XT derailleur. You will end up with a lighter, cleaner-looking, and more functional drivetrain for about the same money - and you'll have a narrow-wide chainring for better chain retention. Use a 30-tooth ring for a 29er and a 32 or 34-tooth ring if your Trek is a 26-inch-wheel model. - RC

Felt Virtue Nine 20 - drive side
Mikechap4 only needs to replace two chainrings and his chain to convert to a one-by-nine drivetrain. If he chose the ten-speed route, he could buy a Shimano Deore two-by ensemble like the Felt's on the left - or convert to a wide-range one-by drivetrain using one of the available kits, like the OneUp cogs, chainring, and RAD cage on the right for about the same money.

60mm Direct Mount Stem

Question: Pinkbike user nuttbt asked this question in the Downhill Forum: Anyone make a 60-65mm direct mount stem? I like the feel the longer stems give me. I think it's because my bars are closer to front axle. I know ENVE makes a 60 but that's insanely expensive. Truvativ makes one too but I absolutely hate their products.

bigquotes60mm Direct Mount stems seem few and far between, you may have to bite your tongue and go with the Truvativ Holzfeller (I had one in 60mm a few years ago with no issues) or stump up for the Enve. Easton make a Havoc stem which is adjustable between 45/50/55mm, so not far off 60mm. Of course there are plenty of robust stem options which aren't DM.

If you really feel like you need a longer stem to get your bars closer to the axle, maybe a steeper head angle, or adjusting the balance of the bike could be the solution? You could try an Angleset to steepen up the steering angle which will move your hands farther over the front axle, and give you a little more reach.

The cheapest and easiest experiment would be to adjust the dynamic ride position of the bike. Either, by stiffening the rear suspension and/or, softening the fork. This will have the effect of moving you hands towards the front axle. Check your rear suspension sag, if it's where you want it, add more sag up front. If this makes your fork too soft, you could try lowering the handlebar height, which will move your weight forward giving more sag up front but keeping the support you need. Downhill bikes can be super difficult to balance with so many variables and adjustments, so experiment and make notes along the way so that you can return to your previous setting if things go awry. - Paul Aston

Truvativ Holzfeller 60mm DM Stem

60mm direct mount stems are hard to come by, but there may be other solutions for riders who need to weight the front end.

Have some unresolved tech questions? Jump in the Pinkbike Forum and we'll look to answer it for next time.


  • 31 1
 That clutch tightening method only works on type 2, not type 2.1. It will break a type 2.1 derailleur if you try it.
  • 25 0
 That's correct. Type 2.1 derailleurs have a fixed pin that holds the clutch mechanism stationary, a change that makes it non-adjustable, but one that should also prevent them from coming out of adjustment in the first place.
  • 9 0
 Good to know! So, in the field, any idea how to easily spot a 2.0 vs a 2.1?
  • 7 0
 A Type 2.1 will say "Type 2.1" where the old ones said "Type 2". Other than that they look the same. I'd guess the only difference between the two is internal.
  • 25 44
flag iamluke (Apr 7, 2015 at 21:40) (Below Threshold)
 well i fixed mine by getting saint gears. i will never again do this mistake with sram gears.
shimano is more like marine with attitude "tell me what and i will do it" and sram is more like "bitch, don't tell me what to do"
  • 2 0
 Based on the pic, looks like someone accidentally pry the bolt before the cover .
  • 5 3
 So stupid of SRAM to make it non-adjustable. Kudos to Shimano for the adjustment
  • 4 4
 Kudos to shimano to make a clutch that instantly breaks when you want propoer tension on the clutch? Seen it happen way too many times. Pretty happy with X0 setup.
  • 3 1
 biggest issue with the shimano clutch derailleurs is the weak plate where you mount it to the bike. Things bend WAY too easy compared to the solid connection on the old saints or all sram derailleurs.
  • 3 0
 Extremely helpful article. Thank you.
  • 22 0
 My bike sounds like a bull in a china shop coming down the trail with 2x10, that's the why I want 1x10.
  • 2 1
 I had had 2x9 setup for a few years and it was the quietest setup ever....
  • 2 11
flag rickaybobbay (Apr 8, 2015 at 8:13) (Below Threshold)
 you just didn't ride hard enough. my chain slaps like crazy and often derails when i'm pinning it over rock gardens and the chatter.
  • 4 0
 I have never droppead a chain. I used bashguard and bottom roller. And yes, I ride like a 80 year old ;(
  • 4 1
 Relevant to the 2X10 guy: you can get a full X9 2X10 rear setup (shifter, derailleur, cassette) on Dunbar for dirt cheap. Saw it when I was poking around the April online deals. Unless your cassette is totally fresh, I'd look into it.
  • 3 0
 Looks like the cassette might be gone. Still worth a look though:
  • 3 0
 Also worth noting that the suggested 2x swap will not correct chain line. Shimano q factor is different from a 3x crank to a 2x crank so chain line in the 36t and 11t will be biased towards the inside of the bike. A cheap fix for a conversion, but not corrected by shimano specs. 1x would be the best conversion because the middle ring position is perfectly aligned for a 1x setup.
  • 10 1
 I don't trust the feds...
  • 1 0
 @moth423 That's an easy fix, pull BB and adjust spacers... unless you're stuck with PF, and nobody wants that.
  • 1 0
 good point, also a sram triple cranks and a sram double crank are the same spacing. so it's the same chain line as far as sram is concerned.
  • 1 0
 if you just changed spacers then you cranks would be offset in your frame... Wink
  • 1 0
 The chances you'll notice 2-5mm (depending on the frame) side to side are pretty minimal. I have noticed however when I change from 170mm cranks to 175, or at least on the road I have. Kinda like why stairs need to be built to within 1/8" (3-4mm) tolerance vertically, your body remembers that height as you step and you can actually detect that as you walk, which could cause a person to trip (going up)/miss a step (going down) completely.
  • 1 0
 True, but I'm still right... Haha
  • 3 0
 The paint literally fell off my Truvative 60m stem.....otherwise it worked by holding the bars...... Burgtec also made a 60mm for a while. I emailed them and they have stopped producing them and said they will not make any more.
  • 16 2
 60mm stem guy: your bike doesn't fit. Buy a bigger bike and you'll run a shorter stem happily.
  • 3 2
 csponsel mind sponsoring those with "bikes that don't fit" for a new frame ? I'd happily take your $2500 for a new frame.
  • 2 0
 Open your eyes a little please. There is only one frame that actually fits me, the custom geometry from nicolai. The only problem is the price. Think it costs 3500$ + 1000$ for the custom geometry.
  • 5 0
 Even these days with NICOLAI you don't need to do custom geometry since they now offer an even larger plethora of sizes.
Hell I'm 6'6" and their stock XL ION 20 size is the first bike that has fit me properly without having to rely on custom geometry. As far as 60mm DM stems are concerned there is almost no need. There are plenty of companies such as TWENTY6 that manufacture 55mm DM stems. If the extra 5mm are really needed then just roll your bars forward a little CHICAGO STYLE.
  • 1 0
 from what i gather his bike isn't necessarily too short, sounds more like he's having trouble weighting the front axle in corners. Lowering the fork in the crowns or running lower bars will give the desired feel of more weight over the front axle, without stretching you out too much or necessitating an odd stem size like 60mm. Also make sure your fork isn't sticky and in need of service, or running too much low speed compression.
  • 4 1
 @60mm direct mount stem:
I doubt that your intention is getting the bars closer to the front axle. Rather, it could be the case that your bike just feels a little short. That's the case with mine, at least. I'm riding a 55mm direct mount stem and I'm considering buying an offset headset to add another 7mm to the reach without altering steering.

If the headangle actually feels to slack, you could of course also use an angle set to steepen the head angle around 1°. That should also provide you the extra reach.

I guess there's a reason nobody rides longer stems Wink
  • 1 0
 The offset headset is a good idea for him. Way better than sizing up a perfectly good bike. 60mm is generally too long for DH use, that's why there are so few options.
  • 1 0
 he probably just needs to have his bars a little lower, not further out. no need to mess up the bikes balance and stability by changing the suspension bias either(unless its already off which could also cause this). Could also lower forks in the crowns if they aren't at the lowest possible height already. I recommend strongly against going with a steeper head angle, thats most likely not the cause of this problem, more a band aid fix that will have adverse affects.
  • 4 1
 I disagree with RCs sentiment that 9-speed and 10-speed rings and chains do not play together. The width is no measureable difference between 9-speed and 10-speed rings. The inner width of the chain is also not measurably different and the variance between chain and ring manufacturers probably accounts for more any claimed theoretical difference.

I have both 9-speed and 10-speed rings, chains, and cassettes mix-matched all over my bikes and I have always measured twice, installed once and I have not had a single performance issue. The measurements tell the story.

Also, 1X only works for extremely fit riders or people that ride trails that do not require steep technical climbing or fast fireroad bombing and definitely not both in the same ride. (Think smaller gear spread) Recommending 1X to a recreational rider is a recipe for frustration. Also, the aluminum large cogs that currently make 1X an option for 10-speeders wear MUCH quicker (especially if you live in a place where it actually rains) than your steel cogs so get ready to pony up to spend some $$ on multiple large alloy cogs.
  • 2 0
 I'm using the Blackspire Trail X guide with my 1x11 setup. It has an upper guide and lower bash guard, and no actual contact with the chain. I had issues with dropped chains on numerous of 1x11 / 1x10 setups on a number of different bikes. With the Blackspire Trail X guide I have yet to drop a chain, and the guide doubles as protection for the chain ring, something I've used on numerous occasions. It's quiet, no difference in drive-train efficiency, light, relatively inexpensive and so far flawlessly reliable.
  • 2 0
 Only had the narrow/wide drop a couple times in the months since I started using one, until last saturday when I said that out loud. It fell off 4 times in one run. The I realized my clutch wasn't engaged. FIxed it.
I run a 1x10 with a 30 up front on my 650b remedy. No 42 tooth cog yet. I can climb most things. I recommend it for most riders.
  • 1 0
 PS I could afford to drop some chain links but I hope to go 42 tooth someday and inmy laziness I keep thinking it would be best to just leave the chain long so it will fit that big cog when I finally get it.
  • 4 0
 I'm using an XT 3X crank with a 30T in the middle position with a XT cassette and 40T large cog. It works great
  • 1 0
 Dude's chain drop is caused by a worn ring. As said, XX1 is very sensitive to wear - it's difficult to visually discern worn rings, but they definitely make noise and drop chains when soft pedaling.

Shocking to me only 1 of the myriad ring makers are offering steel. As before, once Wolftooth's catches on, everyone will follow - hopefully cheaper than $100!
  • 1 0
 Running 1x11 Gen1 since 2013 in my Ibis Mojo HD and now in my Nomad, never dropped a chain and I has been doing trail and bombing Enduro rides with rock gardens and gnarly downhills. I used SRAM xx1 32T chainring in my Ibis and in the Nomad 30T Wolf tooth Component direct mount, now I'm running an Absolute Black 32T oval chainring, and like said before never dropped a chain.
  • 1 0
 oh yeah. i had the bad issue about the chain drop few times , anyway usig everything of xx1 components. i thought was my inexperiece. so i bought a chai retainer like this and i solved all my problems. good article ! so im happy to know im not the only one with that problem ..
  • 3 2
 Would someone with experience recommend swapping out my 2x10 setup to a 1X10 with a completely new crank with a single chainring (like a zee), or buying all of the stuff to change my current crankset to a 1x10?
  • 9 1
 Before you buy anything, find out what the gear range on a 1x feels like first. Adjust your rear derrailer to block off the biggest 3 cogs on your cassette. If you can get up your steepest climb with gear and enough water for a hot day (because the climate is changing and its only going to get hotter) then by all means buy an all new drivetrain. If you're still using granny and any of the 3 biggest gears, 2x10 will keep you in the saddle and not doing hike a bike rides.
  • 7 0
 dont change your crank... just put one ring on it and a guide and there you go.... if you dont have a clutch RD, get one when you need to replace your current one... if your current non-clutch RD is good... just do a guide with a roller... PLEASE dont spend a bunch of money when you dont have to...
  • 3 0
 Couldn't agree with you more , fatenduro. I'm tempted to convert to one by but a few times now I've done "test climbs" by climbing with a similar ratio as one by, and I've struggled on the steeper sustained climbs. I only ride weekends so not sure I'd ever get used to the hard climbs, so I think I'll keep it fun and easy on a two by. Still tempted though, honestly.
  • 1 2
 It makes a big difference having the 42 tooth in the rear. Its not the same as using your middle ring in your granny.
  • 1 0
 I own an entry level full suspension 29er that I did a lot of upgrading to over the last year or so that I've had it. First went from stock 3x10 x7 setup to a new x9 type 2 clutch 2x10 (39/26). I enjoyed it....until I demo'd a trek remedy 9 with an x1 x 11 DT (32T/42T).
I enjoyed it so much I was about to drop the 5.5K on the new rig, but figured I'd wait a little. Now, I'm running a 1x10 using raceface NW 30T upfront with a bash (to protect the close 104 bcd against logs) and a 40T outback. Using the 40T because I was concerned that the jump up to the bigger cog would be a little choppy when on a std 11-36 cassette.
The only thing I miss is the ability to simply drop into the granny without touching the back on some short/sharp/steep climbs. Now I'm slamming that right shifter 2-3 times to climb progressively up the cassette to deal with the same climbs. It's stalled my riding cuz I'm not used to moving the up/down the back cassette that much, but I'm confident I'll get used to it.
Bottom line: A 30T front and 11-40T 10speed back is not too tall for me converting from the 39/26.
The 32T remedy with a 42T out back was a little too tall for me.
  • 1 0
 Do you ever max it out when you're riding down the road? I got like 15 minutes of road riding to get to the trailhead, I could see 11t cog topping out pretty quick with a 30t ring, 32t might do though.
  • 2 1
 11-42T with a 36t ring up front provides me with everything i need. good combo for me.
  • 10 3
 Checklist: you may not want 1x drivetrain if you:
- have muscles preferring high cadence
- run 2 ply tyres
- ride in hot places
- often climb 2000ft +
- have limited ability to train

Remember that 22t granny is worthless on anything else than a 29er, you'll be faster pushing the bike.
  • 2 0
 Waki makes some valid points. If I was less fit I would have stayed with my XX 2x10.
  • 3 0
 Hi Waki, add "if you're an old bugger" (I am) to your list :-)
  • 3 1
 @john260164 "have limited ability to train" - was my PR version of saying "if you're an old bugger" Big Grin

But in general if you are a healthy bloke who has ridden for many years, for 2+ times a week, consider yourself a tough boy yet you still crank a 22t with 2x setup or 1x on 28t chainring to 42t largest cog on a normal bike - HARDEN THE f*ck UP! Hikers are faster than you Big Grin

I just rode with a 60 year old triathlete, no skills, but as soon as we got to the fire road he left me crying for mercy, so he had at least something in his sleeve!
  • 1 0
 Waki you do hit on some points. I have recently toyed with going "big" out back, running 1x10 drive trains for years, in the spring this old man's knees hurt powering some climbs. I am realizing though that I hate spinning and going nowhere and that the only reason riding bikes tends to keep me as fit as it does is that hard pedaling drivetrain. Going with a 42t would get me up some unthinkable climbs I believe but I do alright right now and I wouldn't want to end up "addicted" to it, using it as a crutch.
  • 6 0
 Darkstar - it is a half-myth with unthinkable climbs, because spinning fast robs you off grip no1, when climbing rockgardens cranking harder gear minimizes the chance of rock strikes therefore allows you run longer cranks. Then harder gear is absolutely superior when it comes to clearing obstacles on uphills, like rock steps or larger roots, because you get more power on the tap, you accelerate quicker and you will find it easier to lift the front wheel to perform "3/4 rev over the log" technique. Finally it gives you better balance when pedaling out of the saddle which often is the only way to negotiate a tricky section. Wheelieing on uhill is 99% matter of a right technique and distributing your weight, your COM in relation to BB and rear wheel. So I'd say the trickier the climb the more you should opt for harder gear, even on long ones. Also speaking of long murderous climbs, it is not only a matter of torque you are able to generate, your body will get used to it. When it comes to knee pain, it is a battle between how hard VS how often you step, both take it's toll on your knees, BUT everyone has his own fine line - the trick is to truly find it, not read what smart people have to say, the reality is, there is NO research proving that there is some good cadence for everybody like some good saddle height, Q factor etc. There's more proofs that it is extremely individual.
  • 2 0
 I agree fully with that. I think all riders should pretty much strive to push the hardest gear they can manage as it will translate to more power down as you point out "on tap". Being on a granny is akin to having no chain at all when it comes to powering over obstacles. The lower gearing (in this case I'm thinking 32x40) may take enough stress off my knees at times.... to carry my body through my 30's and beyond Wink
  • 2 0
 Yea, I mean all I wrote above has nothing to do with having 1x on 2x up front, 32,26 or 42t rear, it is a matter of technique and gear choice. You can clear tough climbs on 36t and shift up to 40t for general spinning Big Grin The only issue is me being lazy and I will sooner or later end up on a gear easier than I should, so 34t front / 36t rear on 800g tyres, (26" wheels,175 cranks) forces me to mash it Big Grin Last year I climbed 1500m on fireroad with 12% grade most of the time, with few steep bits and few rocky bits, one shitty loose bit 500m maybe, on ball bearing stones. All on 32t front 36t rear on Jekyll 275. Just take enough food, water, shift between standing and seated pedalling, take reasonable breaks and just hold on to it. It's in your head. At the same time I am fortunate to be totaly healthy, have no lower back or knee issues, cardiovascular system works great. The issue is that we never hear any smart head telling us to crank the hard gear, we are always pumped with roadie pseudo-science, of spinning circles fast.
  • 1 0
 I agree with both of you. It's a mental game and you'll get used to whatever you have on the back. You could have a 42 back there but when you're oxygen deprived going up something steep you'll probably still wish for more or maybe even press the shifter hoping a 44 magically appears Smile . I live in western WA and run 34x36 on my 26er trailbike. It's fine, I just needed to get in a little better shape and now it feels great for anything I'd actually want to climb.
  • 3 0
 I used to get annoyed when people (who don't know the trails I ride, my fitness, my preferences, or anything else about my riding) would claim to know what gearing I *need* on my bike. Now I think it's just kind of funny.
  • 1 0
 If you don't already, standing up plus dropping a cog for tech sections on climbs is like gaining a super power, it's so effective. I hadn't had to think about it for 10 years, only riding DH bikes, & when I started doing rides with climbs again, I struggled until Waki reminded me(& honestly, I probably sat & span before I was a DH rider. it was the late 90s, after all, & that was the "conventional wisdom.") The more your front wheel wanders due to geo on climbs, the more critical getting out of the saddle is. grip suddenly increases, front wheels starts tracking like an arrow, & you're no longer staring at this big wall you have to get up, because your eyeballs are now a foot or two higher.
  • 1 0
 Well WAKI
You described about every good ride in Colorado..haha..

I see everyone going 1 x 10/11... but when I ran the ratio numbers, I don't like it as I tend to spin with a faster cadence, plus 2 x 10 parts are cheap!!

I do like my 2 x 10 so that in one shift I can be in an easy gear..
  • 2 0
 lennyandcarl, I switched to 32 this year for racing. Still manageable. I don't ride much road where I am, but 30 would top out quickly.
  • 1 0
 Thanks, NMK. Might try it out and see if it's tolerable. Could always swap it back and sell the rings I suppose.
  • 2 0
 Nine speed chains will work perfectly on ten speed chainrings but not on ten speed cassettes.
  • 1 0
 thinking of buying a raceface next SL crankset. question though is can i use shimano chainring on it?
  • 1 0
 Only if it has the same BDC and fits you BB. Some are flat while the threaded GXP versions hare concave. I think Shimano uses a 104BDC.
  • 4 0
 There is a 104BCD option on the crank spiders, so yes. A better question is why? The direct mount option saves weight, and Shimano doesn't make a narrow-wide ring. Just use the RF one.
  • 2 0
 Maybe he wants to use a renthal, praxis, hope, etc?
  • 8 10
 no ones converting triples to doubles it's all to single rings
  • 6 5
 Yeah but some of us have a 135mm drop out which will only fit the shimano 1X10 system, and that system's range is not quite as wide as the sram one. So my only realistic choice for the 135mm drop out seems to be 2x10.
  • 7 0
 @dirtypants I have been running SRAM XX1 on my old Kona with 135mm dropouts for three years. It's the body you have to change not the axle.
  • 1 0
 I would say many people are converting to 1x but not 100% because nothing is ever certain. Many people are also going to 2x by replacing the outer ring with a bash guard. Just an observation
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