Ask Pinkbike: XX1 Chain Problems, Type 2 Clutch Adjustment, Triple to Double Chainrings, and 60mm Direct-Mount DH Stems

 That's correct. Type 2.1 derailleurs have a fixed pin that holds the clutch mechanism stationary, a change that makes it non-adjustable, but one that should also prevent them from coming out of adjustment in the first place.

 Good to know! So, in the field, any idea how to easily spot a 2.0 vs a 2.1?

 A Type 2.1 will say "Type 2.1" where the old ones said "Type 2". Other than that they look the same. I'd guess the only difference between the two is internal.

 Based on the pic, looks like someone accidentally pry the bolt before the cover .

 So stupid of SRAM to make it non-adjustable. Kudos to Shimano for the adjustment

 Kudos to shimano to make a clutch that instantly breaks when you want propoer tension on the clutch? Seen it happen way too many times. Pretty happy with X0 setup.

 biggest issue with the shimano clutch derailleurs is the weak plate where you mount it to the bike. Things bend WAY too easy compared to the solid connection on the old saints or all sram derailleurs.

 Extremely helpful article. Thank you.

 I had had 2x9 setup for a few years and it was the quietest setup ever....

 I have never droppead a chain. I used bashguard and bottom roller. And yes, I ride like a 80 year old ;(

 60mm stem guy: your bike doesn't fit. Buy a bigger bike and you'll run a shorter stem happily.

 csponsel mind sponsoring those with "bikes that don't fit" for a new frame ? I'd happily take your $2500 for a new frame.

 Open your eyes a little please. There is only one frame that actually fits me, the custom geometry from nicolai. The only problem is the price. Think it costs 3500$ + 1000$ for the custom geometry.

 Even these days with NICOLAI you don't need to do custom geometry since they now offer an even larger plethora of sizes.
Hell I'm 6'6" and their stock XL ION 20 size is the first bike that has fit me properly without having to rely on custom geometry. As far as 60mm DM stems are concerned there is almost no need. There are plenty of companies such as TWENTY6 that manufacture 55mm DM stems. If the extra 5mm are really needed then just roll your bars forward a little CHICAGO STYLE.

 from what i gather his bike isn't necessarily too short, sounds more like he's having trouble weighting the front axle in corners. Lowering the fork in the crowns or running lower bars will give the desired feel of more weight over the front axle, without stretching you out too much or necessitating an odd stem size like 60mm. Also make sure your fork isn't sticky and in need of service, or running too much low speed compression.

 Looks like the cassette might be gone. Still worth a look though: store.dunbarcycles.com/searchresults/pg?q=christmasmegasale&page=1

 Also worth noting that the suggested 2x swap will not correct chain line. Shimano q factor is different from a 3x crank to a 2x crank so chain line in the 36t and 11t will be biased towards the inside of the bike. A cheap fix for a conversion, but not corrected by shimano specs. 1x would be the best conversion because the middle ring position is perfectly aligned for a 1x setup.

 I don't trust the feds...

 @moth423 That's an easy fix, pull BB and adjust spacers... unless you're stuck with PF, and nobody wants that.

 good point, also a sram triple cranks and a sram double crank are the same spacing. so it's the same chain line as far as sram is concerned.

 if you just changed spacers then you cranks would be offset in your frame...

 The chances you'll notice 2-5mm (depending on the frame) side to side are pretty minimal. I have noticed however when I change from 170mm cranks to 175, or at least on the road I have. Kinda like why stairs need to be built to within 1/8" (3-4mm) tolerance vertically, your body remembers that height as you step and you can actually detect that as you walk, which could cause a person to trip (going up)/miss a step (going down) completely.

 True, but I'm still right... Haha

 The offset headset is a good idea for him. Way better than sizing up a perfectly good bike. 60mm is generally too long for DH use, that's why there are so few options.

 he probably just needs to have his bars a little lower, not further out. no need to mess up the bikes balance and stability by changing the suspension bias either(unless its already off which could also cause this). Could also lower forks in the crowns if they aren't at the lowest possible height already. I recommend strongly against going with a steeper head angle, thats most likely not the cause of this problem, more a band aid fix that will have adverse affects.

 PS I could afford to drop some chain links but I hope to go 42 tooth someday and inmy laziness I keep thinking it would be best to just leave the chain long so it will fit that big cog when I finally get it.

 Before you buy anything, find out what the gear range on a 1x feels like first. Adjust your rear derrailer to block off the biggest 3 cogs on your cassette. If you can get up your steepest climb with gear and enough water for a hot day (because the climate is changing and its only going to get hotter) then by all means buy an all new drivetrain. If you're still using granny and any of the 3 biggest gears, 2x10 will keep you in the saddle and not doing hike a bike rides.

 dont change your crank... just put one ring on it and a guide and there you go.... if you dont have a clutch RD, get one when you need to replace your current one... if your current non-clutch RD is good... just do a guide with a roller... PLEASE dont spend a bunch of money when you dont have to...

 Couldn't agree with you more , fatenduro. I'm tempted to convert to one by but a few times now I've done "test climbs" by climbing with a similar ratio as one by, and I've struggled on the steeper sustained climbs. I only ride weekends so not sure I'd ever get used to the hard climbs, so I think I'll keep it fun and easy on a two by. Still tempted though, honestly.

 It makes a big difference having the 42 tooth in the rear. Its not the same as using your middle ring in your granny.

 I own an entry level full suspension 29er that I did a lot of upgrading to over the last year or so that I've had it. First went from stock 3x10 x7 setup to a new x9 type 2 clutch 2x10 (39/26). I enjoyed it....until I demo'd a trek remedy 9 with an x1 x 11 DT (32T/42T).
I enjoyed it so much I was about to drop the 5.5K on the new rig, but figured I'd wait a little. Now, I'm running a 1x10 using raceface NW 30T upfront with a bash (to protect the close 104 bcd against logs) and a 40T outback. Using the 40T because I was concerned that the jump up to the bigger cog would be a little choppy when on a std 11-36 cassette.
The only thing I miss is the ability to simply drop into the granny without touching the back on some short/sharp/steep climbs. Now I'm slamming that right shifter 2-3 times to climb progressively up the cassette to deal with the same climbs. It's stalled my riding cuz I'm not used to moving the up/down the back cassette that much, but I'm confident I'll get used to it.
Bottom line: A 30T front and 11-40T 10speed back is not too tall for me converting from the 39/26.
The 32T remedy with a 42T out back was a little too tall for me.

 Do you ever max it out when you're riding down the road? I got like 15 minutes of road riding to get to the trailhead, I could see 11t cog topping out pretty quick with a 30t ring, 32t might do though.

 11-42T with a 36t ring up front provides me with everything i need. good combo for me.

 Checklist: you may not want 1x drivetrain if you:
- have muscles preferring high cadence
- run 2 ply tyres
- ride in hot places
- often climb 2000ft +
- have limited ability to train

Remember that 22t granny is worthless on anything else than a 29er, you'll be faster pushing the bike.

 Waki makes some valid points. If I was less fit I would have stayed with my XX 2x10.

 Hi Waki, add "if you're an old bugger" (I am) to your list :-)

 @john260164 "have limited ability to train" - was my PR version of saying "if you're an old bugger"

But in general if you are a healthy bloke who has ridden for many years, for 2+ times a week, consider yourself a tough boy yet you still crank a 22t with 2x setup or 1x on 28t chainring to 42t largest cog on a normal bike - HARDEN THE f*ck UP! Hikers are faster than you

I just rode with a 60 year old triathlete, no skills, but as soon as we got to the fire road he left me crying for mercy, so he had at least something in his sleeve!

 Waki you do hit on some points. I have recently toyed with going "big" out back, running 1x10 drive trains for years, in the spring this old man's knees hurt powering some climbs. I am realizing though that I hate spinning and going nowhere and that the only reason riding bikes tends to keep me as fit as it does is that hard pedaling drivetrain. Going with a 42t would get me up some unthinkable climbs I believe but I do alright right now and I wouldn't want to end up "addicted" to it, using it as a crutch.

 Darkstar - it is a half-myth with unthinkable climbs, because spinning fast robs you off grip no1, when climbing rockgardens cranking harder gear minimizes the chance of rock strikes therefore allows you run longer cranks. Then harder gear is absolutely superior when it comes to clearing obstacles on uphills, like rock steps or larger roots, because you get more power on the tap, you accelerate quicker and you will find it easier to lift the front wheel to perform "3/4 rev over the log" technique. Finally it gives you better balance when pedaling out of the saddle which often is the only way to negotiate a tricky section. Wheelieing on uhill is 99% matter of a right technique and distributing your weight, your COM in relation to BB and rear wheel. So I'd say the trickier the climb the more you should opt for harder gear, even on long ones. Also speaking of long murderous climbs, it is not only a matter of torque you are able to generate, your body will get used to it. When it comes to knee pain, it is a battle between how hard VS how often you step, both take it's toll on your knees, BUT everyone has his own fine line - the trick is to truly find it, not read what smart people have to say, the reality is, there is NO research proving that there is some good cadence for everybody like some good saddle height, Q factor etc. There's more proofs that it is extremely individual.

 I agree fully with that. I think all riders should pretty much strive to push the hardest gear they can manage as it will translate to more power down as you point out "on tap". Being on a granny is akin to having no chain at all when it comes to powering over obstacles. The lower gearing (in this case I'm thinking 32x40) may take enough stress off my knees at times.... to carry my body through my 30's and beyond

 Yea, I mean all I wrote above has nothing to do with having 1x on 2x up front, 32,26 or 42t rear, it is a matter of technique and gear choice. You can clear tough climbs on 36t and shift up to 40t for general spinning The only issue is me being lazy and I will sooner or later end up on a gear easier than I should, so 34t front / 36t rear on 800g tyres, (26" wheels,175 cranks) forces me to mash it Last year I climbed 1500m on fireroad with 12% grade most of the time, with few steep bits and few rocky bits, one shitty loose bit 500m maybe, on ball bearing stones. All on 32t front 36t rear on Jekyll 275. Just take enough food, water, shift between standing and seated pedalling, take reasonable breaks and just hold on to it. It's in your head. At the same time I am fortunate to be totaly healthy, have no lower back or knee issues, cardiovascular system works great. The issue is that we never hear any smart head telling us to crank the hard gear, we are always pumped with roadie pseudo-science, of spinning circles fast.

 I agree with both of you. It's a mental game and you'll get used to whatever you have on the back. You could have a 42 back there but when you're oxygen deprived going up something steep you'll probably still wish for more or maybe even press the shifter hoping a 44 magically appears . I live in western WA and run 34x36 on my 26er trailbike. It's fine, I just needed to get in a little better shape and now it feels great for anything I'd actually want to climb.

 I used to get annoyed when people (who don't know the trails I ride, my fitness, my preferences, or anything else about my riding) would claim to know what gearing I *need* on my bike. Now I think it's just kind of funny.

 If you don't already, standing up plus dropping a cog for tech sections on climbs is like gaining a super power, it's so effective. I hadn't had to think about it for 10 years, only riding DH bikes, & when I started doing rides with climbs again, I struggled until Waki reminded me(& honestly, I probably sat & span before I was a DH rider. it was the late 90s, after all, & that was the "conventional wisdom.") The more your front wheel wanders due to geo on climbs, the more critical getting out of the saddle is. grip suddenly increases, front wheels starts tracking like an arrow, & you're no longer staring at this big wall you have to get up, because your eyeballs are now a foot or two higher.

 Well WAKI
You described about every good ride in Colorado..haha..

I see everyone going 1 x 10/11... but when I ran the ratio numbers, I don't like it as I tend to spin with a faster cadence, plus 2 x 10 parts are cheap!!

I do like my 2 x 10 so that in one shift I can be in an easy gear..

 Thanks, NMK. Might try it out and see if it's tolerable. Could always swap it back and sell the rings I suppose.

 Only if it has the same BDC and fits you BB. Some are flat while the threaded GXP versions hare concave. I think Shimano uses a 104BDC.

 There is a 104BCD option on the crank spiders, so yes. A better question is why? The direct mount option saves weight, and Shimano doesn't make a narrow-wide ring. Just use the RF one.

 Maybe he wants to use a renthal, praxis, hope, etc?

 Yeah but some of us have a 135mm drop out which will only fit the shimano 1X10 system, and that system's range is not quite as wide as the sram one. So my only realistic choice for the 135mm drop out seems to be 2x10.

 @dirtypants I have been running SRAM XX1 on my old Kona with 135mm dropouts for three years. It's the body you have to change not the axle.

 I would say many people are converting to 1x but not 100% because nothing is ever certain. Many people are also going to 2x by replacing the outer ring with a bash guard. Just an observation