Ask Pinkbike: Ripmo or Smuggler, Powerful Brakes & Tough Tires
Here at Pinkbike, we get inundated with all kinds of questions, ranging from the basic "Can I have stickers" to more in-depth, soul-searching types of queries like if you should pop the question or what to name your first child. Ask Pinkbike is an occasional column where we'll be hand-picking and answering questions that have been keeping readers up at night, although we'll likely steer clear of those last two and keep it more tech oriented.
Transition Smuggler vs. Ibis Ripmo
Question: @ozarksagd asks in the All-Mountain, Enduro & Cross-Country forum:: I'm looking get a more efficient 29er with a steeper STA and reduced offset fork for aggressive all-mountain riding, all-day epics, and 4-6 enduro races per year. I'm located in NW Arkansas, so lots of short technical up and down, long flow trails, and medium to big jump lines. I enjoy it all. I want a bike I can throw on the truck and ride comfortably in a wide range of mountainous areas.
While at Outerbike, I demo'd a Transition Sentinel, Scout, and Smuggler, an Evil Following MB, Pivot Firebird 29, and an Ibis Ripmo. Out of those, the Smuggler and the Ripmo were standouts. Both felt quick, poppy, and efficient. But a well equipped Ripmo is nearly $8,000, while the Smuggler is $6,000.
Worth noting though is I would have to swap the Smuggler's DPS rear for a DPX2 and would probably upgrade the wheelset as well. I would likely run the 36 on the Smuggler at 150mm.
Does anyone have experience on both bikes? Namely, I'd like to hear people's opinions on any limitations felt with the shorter travel Smuggler or conversely, anyone who feels like the Ripmo is too much bike.
*Note: I believe it's a fair comparison due to both bikes having nearly identical geometry numbers. I'm not interested in the Sentinel. It feels too long for my tastes.
 | The geometry numbers may be similar, but the Smuggler and the Ripmo have two very distinct trail personalities due to their different suspension designs and amounts of travel. They'll both work very well for the terrain you described, but you'll want to consider exactly where your performance priorities lie. If I had 4-6 enduro races on my calendar I'd go with the Ripmo. That extra 25mm of rear travel goes a long way towards taking the edge off of bigger hits, and makes it easier to maintain speed in rougher terrain. I'd recommend going with the Fox Float X2 on the Ripmo vs. the DPX2 – it gives the bike a plusher, more ground-hugging feel. There's also the fact that you can fit a wider rear tire on the Ripmo, which gives you more options to adapt to the conditions on race day. Both bikes have similar reach numbers and steep seat angles, which creates a very comfortable climbing position; the difference lies in how the suspension behaves when you're grinding uphill. If you don't like flipping levers the Ripmo is the way to go – that DW-link suspension layout gives it a very crisp feel when climbing, while the Smuggler does best after moving that little blue lever into the middle setting for extra support. The two bikes have the same frame only price, but the different part specs make it a little trickier to keep the final price of the Ripmo down. Ibis do provide the option of uprgrading the suspension components or wheels, and if I was in your shoes I'd probably go with the GX model, upgrade the fork to the Grip2 damper and the shock to an X2. I'd also find a way to swap the Deore brakes for a set of SRAM Codes. All those changes should still keep the price around that $6,000 mark. No matter what you end up choosing, you're going to have a bike that's capable of delivering tons of fun out on the trails – I thoroughly enjoyed the hours I spent testing both models. |
Transition Smuggler
Ibis Ripmo
What is the Most Durable Plus Tire?
Question: @dannyfag asks in the All-Mountain/Cross-Country Forum: Anyone had any experience with plus tires? I got quite a heavy bike with Minion front and High roller rear, both 2.8. One trip to the Lake District and I was hounded with flats on the rear. I started with tubeless and then had to put tubes in, as I had some major cuts in them.
I am going on the same trip and can`t bear to be repairing loads of flats mid winter on some of my favourite descents. I just bought a Vittoria tire insert, but I am wondering what the most robust rear 2.8 tire on the market is? Are the Magic Mary 2.8 any good? I did have the 2.35 on a DH holiday a couple of years ago and they seemed really good.
| If you are already having problems with the 2.8 Minion DHF (it's one of the tougher plus alternatives), you will probably slash up the Magic Mary on the same trails. Your salvation may be in the new Eddy Current 27.5 x 2.8 inch tire from Schwalbe. It was designed specifically to handle the abuse handed out by 55-pound eMTB's, topped by riders brandishing 250 to 500 watts of battery power boost up and down technical trails. If you don't mind riding a 1300-gram tire, you'll appreciate its durability and massive traction. Look for an upcoming review from Paul Aston. |
Schwalbe's Eddie Current 2.8" x 27.5" is a rear-specific tire is intended to handle the extra 250 watts and additional 55-pound weight of an eMTB. If you have the legs, and need a more durable plus tire, this may be it.
Most Powerful Brakes?
Question: @seismicninja asks in the Downhill Forum: So I sold my Saint 810 set because I wanna try something else. Nothing wrong with them and I love them, but I want to try out some other brakes just because. I care much more about sheer power than modulation. So what brakes do you guys recommend that have EQUAL OR MORE power to the Saints? Not interested in any two piston brakes except possibly Formula RO's. Thanks
| Shimano's Saints are one of the most powerful brakes out there; every time I get back on a bike with them installed I think "Holy crap, these are unreal!" Some people don't like the 'Servowave' action and of the lever, as it adds to the force needed to initiate pulling the lever, but I don't mind this personally. They also have some other great advantages like their IceTec rotors that genuinely seem to help with heat build-up, and thanks to the alloy carrier, seem to stay straight much longer than a conventional one-piece steel rotor, especially in 203mm size. But if you want more power, there are some brakes that offer similar power, like Magura's MT7 (I don't like the short HC3 lever and much prefer the cheaper, longer levers), and Formula's new Cura4 downhill brake promises more power over their great 2-piston version. There are various ways of measuring brake power to claim the top spot, but in the words of the Highlander, there can only be one – the Trickstuff Maxima. I reviewed the previous Direttissima that was a brake with incredible power, modulation, and feel, but it wasn't without a few problems: too many fiddly little Allen and Torx keys for my liking, a weak lever clamp that didn't tighten enough on my carbon handlebar at the time, and some rotors that could snap (these were recalled) if doing trials moves and braking while moving backward. All of these issues seem to have been solved with the Maxima that should be launching on Kickstarter any day now, at a whopping €990 per set. Obviously, the price is insane (although a pittance compared to the €12000 MotoGP caliper I saw being prototyped at Cero a few years ago), but, I imagine this will be the best brake you can buy. It has an improved lever clamp, tool-free adjust, Trickstuff's own "Power" pads, 223mm rotors, bigger pistons, Goodridge braided hoses, Bionol organic fluid, it's made in Germany, every unit is assembled by the same guy for consistency, it's super lightweight, and has a range of anodized colors for everyone – what's not to like? Well, the price of course, but Trickstuff only offer one option, and that is with all the bells and whistles. You cannot save a few Euro's by choosing a standard hose, different pads, or cheaper rotor, this time, these Germans are out to prove a point. Oh, and they claim it has 25% more power than the Direttissima (with the same size rotors and pads) and more power than every other brake on the market. They also claim that it (and the Direttissimma) are the only brakes in the world that can be bled 100% perfectly, so it should never need bleeding, ever – don't shoot the messenger. |
The Maxima from Trickstuff promises to be the world's most powerful MTB brake. It is without a doubt the most expensive.
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Member since Jul 22, 2013
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Trickstuff and Saints came up trumps for power.
I can vouch for MT7's, they're extremely powerful. Get the HC3 levers with them, you can adjust the leverage on them to make them even more powerful or to get some more modulation.
Get the Direttissima levers with Goodridge hose connected to the Magura MT 7 caliper.
We Germans call that thing Trigura.
I think that the pad-disc combination and proper bedding in has a much bigger difference than what brake to use.
Biggest braking power to get without buying trickstuff is to mount a 220mm rotor and try out different pads.
See their pics of their clear acrylic calipers with handy yellow arrows and red circle.
We're not done yet... you need to rotate the brake lever 15 degrees in both directions, watch the air bubbles come up into the funnel and hope their slip on bleed hoses don't slip off and f*ck the whole process up. Ridiculous.
Did you use anything but Shimano fluid? You destroyed your brake. Can't rebuild it because Shimano does not sell kits for that. Buy a new brake. Buy one from a company that understands how the real world works outside the utopia of Shimanosphere. Magura is no better on this point about fluids and the blue blood is an on line only purchase in Canada as far as I can tell.
1000.00 per brake is stupid. There are new brakes coming on the market regularily. Any of the current brakes are excellent if you learn how to set them up properly. Good luck in your search. Anyone heard how the new Hayes brake is? Has anyone seen or riden one?
If you buy a brake that uses DOT4 you won't ever be stuck to find fluid for it and a case can be made for both fluids.
The M810s in question sound like something was wrong with em maybe? Only thing I’d suggest is getting some M820s if power is what you want and you don’t fancy getting a mortgage for some brakes.
PS they’re just as easy to bleed as ever, old or new. But if you got one of those M8000s that’s poop, nothing you do will help. I did a hacked vacuum bleed to see if I could fix it. It didn’t work.
Gives me confidence
Yes, the Fugitive is very comperable to the Ripmo, and for the same money you will get better suspension and components on the Knolly. It should be ok in the odd enduro, www.knollybikes.com/single-post/2018/09/13/2018-Canadian-National-Enduro-Series-Champion-Trail-Builder-and-Community-Advocate---Daniel-Shaw
What I need/would love to do is ride each one again on my local trails. I’ll end up getting one and being happy with it, but it’s not a small amount of money and I think some due-diligence is good. I also enjoy researching.
My advice is go and see a doctor and ask for a check up from the neck up!
.
23 % stronger than SRAM Code
25 % stronger than Trickstuff Direttissima
27 % stronger than Magura MT7 mit HC1/3-Hebel
35 % stronger than Shimano Saint/Zee
46 % stronger than Hope V
Cura4 is missing because too new
That being said, the smugg should have been spec'd with the 36 up front from the get go if they were going Fox. I swapped the 34 out for a lyrik and have a Super Deluxe rear shock coming this week. That damn rear shock is total trash and cant wait to get the super deluxe on it.
120 rear/with 150-160 front is the perfect combo for 99% of riding outside real top level DH or freeride stuff. Putting the 160mm fork up front made the thing gobble rocks like im riding on a sidewalk.
tl;dr - that rear shock is trash and transition should be embarrassed they put it on such a capable bike.
www.instagram.com/p/BmMJLGCAkcA
...or am I not understanding?
I love my Smuggler. I also got it like three days before the Ripmo came out. Had I had the option I likley would have gone Ripmo.
What I really wanted was a Ripley with modern geo and more progression.
One other thing to consider, after years of breaking frames, Transition overbuilt the heck out of the Smuggler. I’ve seen several cracked Ripmos and it you have Ibis’s iffy fit and finish. Paint on the Smuggler is also better than any Ibis I have seen believe it or not.
Mine came with a 34, which was just a bad decision from the start. I have a reduced offset Ribbon on it now that is a big improvement, the 36 GRIP2 would be even better. I would avoid getting one with the 34, so any model from 2019 should have a proper fork on it.
The DPS in the rear is blech and really lets the bike down. It's underdamped and bottoms harshly for me. I've run both the Topaz and a DBCoil IL, both were big improvements over the stock shock and made the bike feel a lot better. I'd suggest something like a Topaz, TriAir, DBAir/Coil IL, or DPX2 if you buy one. Personally, I feel like the coil has been best for me, but it isn't for everyone.
I think one thing not mentioned is the tire clearance. The Smuggler has a much more limited tire clearance than the Ripmo, so if you plan on running anything above a 2.4 (or more likely a 2.3), then it won't fit. That said, I feel like the rest of the bike feels great enough to not be too bothered by it, although it'd be nice to have more clearance.
Another review on NSMB that I read for the Ripmo said it had problems on chunky terrain at speed, so that's something to consider.
Well, you just made a brutally honest review right there, we don't need any more.
The Sentinel really is a DH bike that you can pedal up hill. The BB drop is amazingly low, and your pedals will be level in most turns. The Ripmo bottoms out more harshly (both have the Fox DPX2) I'm a huge fan of reduced offset, but it feels more "at home" on the Sentinel than the Ripmo.
On the Ripmo I'm setting PR's on climbs vs my old 125mm Turner Sultan (DW-Link too, same weight) I'm setting small downhill PR's vs the Sentinel. If you have to have only one bike Ripmo is the way to go.
Also; to just call modulation squishiness is absolutely off the plot. Hope brakes can feel insanely stiff pending how you set them up, they just don't have a literal mechanical lever behind the blade putting uneeded force into it.
So I went for a change and bought some Barnoldswick Billet.
The power is there although not as much as the Zees but I have set up the reach and throw of the lever to how I want and feel like, which is a big improvement. The power is there but it's not as direct as the Shimano units. Less an instant 100%, more subtle when you want it to be.
But hey, each to their own, I just ride bikes to have fun and spend my payslip on something.
The Maguras definitely have more power, but despite the reviews I'd read I find them to have if not exactly worse moderation, its not as "nice". The levers have a bit of a wooden feel to them whereas I loved the softer non-linear action on the Saints. Race cars are setup with stiff pedals and drivers modulate by force, rather than displacement of the brake pedal and that's kind of how the Magura's feel. I have left them on my bike though because the extra power is addictive even though you don't really need more power than the Saints. I've read about people using Shimano levers with the Magura calipers and that's something I'm going to look into.
Both of them kind of suck in the wet compared to an old pair of Formula Oro's I had. NOt sure if its pad compound or just that the big brakes don't work well until they get a little heat in them - if you are braking hard and getting hot then they work as normal of course, but intermittent braking on wet trails and rain they just seem to lose a lot of power.
Sentinel as my park bike, DH bike geo, still fun to ride on trails
Same headset, BB , dropper, fork, if something is broken on one bike I can steal it off the other
Weather we're riding trail, park, or shuttles I always have a bike ready
My Delirium is about 16-16.5kg and Im able to climb more comfortable and efficient than my previous shorter travel enduro bikes which were also lighter.
Schattberg to Hackelberg is kind of a bitch but only because of the 42t in the back... With eagle or a Sunrace cassette it would be even easier
Also I've heard many dw-link bikes get chattery at speed (mojo hd3?) and it strikes me that transition prefers to set their bikes up to be fun on the downs.