|All shock makers have engineering-style drawings of each model readily available on their websites for bike manufacturers to use to ensure that there will be no clearance issues. You may have to email their tech departments to access them, but it shouldn't be difficult. Easier still, is to use their fit compatibility charts, which usually cover recent models (one to three years back) in addition to the current model year. Unfortunately, not every shock maker has a fit guide, so you may have to stick with a sure bet.|
Cane Creek's Fit Finder is the best resource in the business. I did the legwork for you, and Fit Finder indicates that the DBAir CS and InLine are compatible (with a "call Cane Creek" warning, which probably means you'll need special hardware for the yoke-type eyelet mount). Most shocks on the used market have dedicated tunes, so you may not get the performance you wish for unless you buy new and have the maker give you the correct valving for your Zesty. The advantage of choosing an aftermarket shock like the Cane Creek, is that its high and low-speed damping is completely adjustable so, new or used, you will be able to optimize its performance for your Lapierre.
Finally, you can opt for an in-line shock upgrade from any top shock maker and if there are clearance issues with the air-can end, you can simply reverse the shock and mount the can side to the yoke. The tiny increase in un-sprung mass will not affect your suspension's action enough to worry about and you will rest easier with an expensive purchase. - RC
|As more and more riders are figuring out, taking advantage of lift served terrain aboard a shorter travel bike can be loads of fun, but there are a few points to keep in mind in order to ensure that you and your bike emerge unscathed. On the beginner / intermediate terrain your Bronson will be fine; it's when larger drops and gaps begin to enter the picture that you may want to consider stepping up to a dedicated park bike. Large, repeated impacts, especially if you're at the point in your riding career where casing jumps is a regular occurrence can shorten a bike's lifespan, especially a bike that's aimed at more at trail and all-mountain riding.|
Whether or not you purchase a dedicated park bike should also depend on how often you're planning on riding the lifts. A few weekends a summer? Stick with the Bronson, and save the extra cash for another trip to Whistler. But if you find yourself heading for the lifts every weekend, purchasing another bike will help reduce the wear and tear on your daily driver, since bike parks tend to take a toll on items like wheels and tires. And as to your question about air sprung suspension, there's definitely no rule against using it. If you were riding in an area with massive vertical and sustained steep runs a coil sprung shock could be a good option, but Beech Mountain's on the smaller side of things, and your air suspension should be just fine. - Mike Kazimer
|Wow, they are super high, almost flat. I asked Yoann today, because we are homeboys and we Whatsapp each other on the regular. His reply was:|
Motocross style! I started to ride with my brakes really high mid-season. After watching Damien Oton riding (and some downhillers), I noticed this particularly on their bikes and decided to try it. The result is simple: no arm pump anymore, and it allows me to ride with my upper body higher and head more up, which is convenient in enduro, as you can see obstacles and the trail coming earlier. I love it!
Coincidentally, I was riding with Nico Vouilloz today, and I noticed his levers were also horizontal. He said that he used to line everything up in a straight line when sat in pedalling position, arms, wrists, hands, fingers and brake lever's, but as he gets older they keep getting flatter, the flatter they get the more he feels in control on steep stuff with his weight pushing behind the bar and front axle. He says that when he makes them steeper, he has the feeling of his hands falling over the front of the grips.
Personally, I have been running my brake levers high (not as high as Yoann or Nico though) for a couple of reasons:
I find it easier to weight the handlebar and front wheel, while not creating as much fatigue and arm pump on long rough trails. Why? If your arm, wrist, and hand are in a straight line, muscles need to be tensed to prevent the wrist rolling forwards or backward. Tense muscles mean tired muscles, and relaxing too much then hitting a bump at the wrong angle could send your hand flying off the front of the grip. If the levers are flatter, it forces you to drop your wrists down like Yoann's left hand in the picture. With your hand in this position you can lean on the handlebar without having to grip as tightly and braces the wrist for impact. I would go as far as saying whatever angle the trail is, if it's smooth I could ride with my fingers completely open just using my thumb to grip. The downside of this is that some people get sore wrists - something I have never struggled with personally, either because of practice/training this method for years, or just my body's mechanics.
Of course, there's ergonomic and mobility issues, as well as personal preference to consider, but in general, I think you should consider the angle of your preferred terrain to dictate the angle of your levers. Like riding on flat trails? Then set them steep. Like riding steep downhills? Then make them flatter. - Paul Aston
Cool FeaturesSubmit a Story to Pinkbike
RSSPinkbike RSS Feed