Service your fork lowers, adding it to your routine maintenance schedule will help prolong the life of your fork and keep your front end feeling fresh. Christina breaks the task down giving you everything you need to know to perform a fork lowers service at home.
If anyone needs tips for spraying fork oil all over your tools and garage floor when tapping on the bottom bolts to dislodge the lowers LMK, I'm extremely experienced in this area
@HankDamage: I too am experienced in this area. Secret tip: don't remove the stopper from the funnel that's screwed into your Shimano brake lever during the bleed process. Just push harder on the syringe at the caliper, assuming everything's fine and it's just a little harder this time, until the syringe hose explodes off the caliper coupling and sprays the entire syringe contents everywhere including all over your pads, rotor, etc.
@HankDamage: Make sure to keep your pads and rotors as close to the brake fluid as possible. Bonus points if you knock the container over on them as you try to fill up your syringe.
Yesterday I shaved half a gram from my bike by tightening the tubeless valve lock-nipple until it snapped off. The pressure held for the ride, and now I am left with deciding if this is a long term solution or not.
Pumping up tyres to 3-4 bar when they've got fresh sealant added but aren't properly seated is also a great way of creating a reason to spring clean your garage. I call it bike bukkake.
@rickybobby18: haha I'm chuckling to myself because I've done literally the same thing, except not only did the syringe hose pop off, but somehow one of the ceramic pistons broke apart as well.
I wish there was some magical way to place the wrench/socket/hex head on the bolt/nut and then life magically had a cut scene to where it was already loose and easily came off like that...
Bikkake. Noun. A type of activity in which a bicycle or bicycle component douses one in gratuitous amounts of liquid, primarily but not exclusively tire sealant.
@HankDamage: not as painful as that ,but i once exploded not 1 ,but 3 syringe full ,75ml each, of shimano mineral oil all over the kitchen,bike,me before i realised i was trying to refill the back,but the little yellow cup was sitting nicely in the front reservoir ,DOH !!!
Is there a version where they teach you how to do it in the cramped corner of a cold basement with poor lighting, no work stand and a disorganized pile of tools that only kinda sorta resemble the ones you’re supposed to be using?
I'm going to wait for the episode in a huge garage that is 120°F and so full of ancient junk that there's only a 2' cubic space to work in, but yeah no lights and only Grandpa's plumbing tools.
Gopnik style service is the sht. Especially at 10:30 pm because kids didn’t want to fall asleep earlier.
My “workshop” is at the attic above neighbors apartments. No insulation, just a 10” thick concrete slab. So every time I drop an allen key or fall over muc off degreaser can I need prepare myself to face a pissed off neighbor…
@dolface: Kind of like pool or darts, there's probably a distinct optimum beer intake that balances loosening you up to where you don't overthink but you're not too sloppy yet. I'm guessing somewhere around 1.5 beers or so...
Good content, but hardly "original". Original would be a Friday fails version....
1. Make staff service things without giving them instructions, access to the internet or proper tools. 2. Do it in a PB academy format over several weeks with service followed by a race. 3. Have a set list of tools mostly from Lowes, with only very basic bike specific stuff that any hack would have like spoke wrench and cassette removal tool. 4. Have all the correct parts for the job but just dump them in a parts bin with a bunch of other parts 5. Have a link to the actual needed service video when you free lease each series. 6. Get the park tool guys to be guest judges and voice over the videos.
List of challenges:
1. Fix the taco with a broken spoke or 2 2. Service shock and fork 3. Change bottom bracket and cranks 4. Internal routed brake cable change, bleed and rotor size change 5. Change full drivetrain fron Sram to shimano ( or sh to Sr) ...
It's a lot safer and cleaner to remove it. It doesn't add THAT much more time to do the job properly and will prevent you from ending up with debris in the bath oil or bent rods if you drop the bike.
Most forks are at least $600-700. Is it really worth not spending the extra 15min to do it properly?
@shinook: After doing this job countless times, I'd say no, it's not. No problem with leaving the fork attached. Debris in the fork and bent rods is not going to be caused by doing this.
However, do unbolt the brake caliper and attach behind the saddle or somewhere that fork oil has no chance of reaching.
@shinook: By all means, if you've got the time do it the way you feel comfortable with. I like the idea of greasing the headset to make it worthwhile.
With the fork attached I drape the bike over a repair stand when draining the fork oil, and lay down cardboard when the flipping bike over to protect the levers from scratching.
Wrong. You are wasting too much time by removing the wheel from the fork and turning the bike upside down. Just loose the lower bolts, drain the oil, throw new oil somehow, put back the bolts, call your mum to clean the mess, ready to go. Follow me 4 mor tips
@ViolaVesperlin: I also find it important to protect the levers from getting scratched, so the paint is fresh for when I flip the bike over in a gravel car park to put the front wheel in, or when doing trailside repairs.
@mobiller: After doing this countless times both ways, I'd say: yes it is.
You may not bend a rod once, but it is awkward flipping your bike upside down and right side up several times. It only takes once for it to slip out of your hands and land on the damper or spring rods, then you need a lot more work. The rods are sensitive and even knocking it over while sat upside down can damage them, is it really worth that risk over, what, 15 minutes or less?
As for debris, unless you are cleaning your entire bike prior to working on it, then it will most likely get something in there eventually. If you clean it, then it is less likely.
You do you, but not removing it has objective risks. It is not that complicated to do so and if you are not capable of removing the fork from the bike to work on it, then you shouldn't be messing with suspension in the first place.
@m47h13u: pro tipp: don't drop open bath fork when already opened. Oil stains on walls and ceiling make wifey unhappy. A 888 holds quite a lot of oil. Been there, done that.
Special damper removal tools and a seal press but a wrench to pull out the seals. Someone at Park Tools has really dropped the ball! They could have a $45, blue handled tool that doubles as a nose ring remover than everyone would just trip all over themselves for.
Stoked for this. Hearing Levy and Kaz talking repeatedly recommending doing a lowers service in the podcast got me as far as ordering the parts, but I keep not actually doing the work.
I've always done all the wrenching on my bikes, but I definitely have a fear about wrecking my suspension, so have shied away from that.
It appears intimidating from the outside, but ends up. being pretty easy. Same goes for the rear shock. A few more seals and bits of plastic to replace, but most air shocks are pretty easy.
Nice side effect: You will also learn how to increase or decrease the travel on pretty much any air fork. The required parts are cheap (sometimes only spacers) compared to buying a new fork.
Very intimidating at first, just like that gap or drop you feared to do, but when you actually do it, you will laugh at how simple that is. No loose parts, just messy.
Unthreading the shifter lever out of curiosity and having all the bits spill on the ground is far scarier.
@adam102: Basic lower fork service is easy. Only failure I once had was that I overtightened a hollow bolt at the bottom and snapped. Was pretty annoying trying to get the remains off the rebound damper unit. Just surprised to hear about how often she does it. She says it is recommended once every 125 riding hours then claims that she only does it once a year. So that's only ten riding hours a month. For her job she probably rides multiple different bikes but otherwise you'll find yourself perform the service more often. I think I do it about three times a year though I don't remove dust wipers and I don't have a foam ring (as my current fork takes grease in the lowers instead of oil).
Henry should pair up with Christina to do Budget Baller 2.0 - the home mechanic edition.
While Tina gets to use all the nice Park Tools and Fox stuff, Henry only gets to use Mike Bears.
I would die if it was a 7 second video showing someone throwing it into a garbage bin and clicking "buy" on one of the many reliable posts that are available
@rickybobby18: Waki had a video on his Insta a while back on how to service a reverb by putting it directly in the bin @calmWAKI Prove you're actually Waki and give us a link to that video
Would like to know why official Fox "how to video" and Miss Christinas tutorial say to pre-pump airspring to 60 lbs. before putting the lowers back on, whilst most other how to"s don't, and my LBS mechanic tell me it's not necessary.
@tadabing: it could be as simple as that's the number they picked so people wouldn't email them asking for a specific number. Give people a range or saying something like "just pump it up enough to fully extend the air spring" leads to people stopping and asking questions while also adding doubt into their minds. On the other hand give them a specific number and they'll become more likely to not skip that step, and the people that want to know "why 60psi?" are not only much less likely to call or email, but also much fewer in number.
@iamamodel: The drawback for me is always forgetting to re-inflate before adding oil and reattaching the footnut. Every time. So if I’m not servicing the air piston and just the seals/lowers I only burp the air chamber rather than letting all the air out, then forgetting works great.
One common misconception regarding the crush washer that was part of the video is that a used crush washer can cause a leak. This is false, the crush washer is not a seal. It's job is to protect the lowers from the bolt. The actual seal is the mechanical interface when the shaft wedges into the lowers.
Christine, this was an awesome video and thanks for that. I just took my fork into my LBS for a service and then got recommended for bearing replacement as well - of $470.00. I think I need to do this stuff myself as I cannot afford taking anything to my LBS anymore. Can you do a dropper post service video please. Thanks
Most droppers are easy — unscrew the seal collar, cycle the dropper a few times until the bushings and stuff slide out, squirt a load of fresh grease in there, then lower the post halfway and screw the seal collar back on. A full strip down and clean is a more involved procedure.
That pricing seems unnecessarily harsh...were they replacing ALL bearings (linkage, bb, headset, hub)? Depending on your set up some bearing parts themselves are a little pricy but that seems high, even if it's full fork service w/damper.
@iammarkstewart: Nope. Just the rear linkage bearings. This was for a transition patrol. They have become outrageously expensive to support and I will use my other LBS in Lynn Valley for all future work. I just thought I'd give them another go due to COVID hardship but I am being the one screwed over...again. Twice now so no more business from me to them.
Fork was just a 2017 Rockshox Pike (200 hour service)
@disruptiveone: Meant to reply to this but life happens. Your Patrol is a little Giant-esque with the linkage set up, so 8 bearings I think. And a full 200 hour on a fork is more labour. I revise my statement a little now that I know what you had done. Compared to shops in my area and what we do, your invoice may not be that far off depending on the cost of the parts and seal kits (I assume they replaced everything).
It's a fact that you pay for time and/or convenience. Saving that costs you yours.
There's my one regret with having Fox suspension now. I'm going to need custom tools to do a job I could easily do on a Rock Shox fork with my everyday toolbox...
You don't need custom tools to do a fox lowers service. Half-thread the nuts and use your socket to tap on them. All you need are standard sockets, a mallet, and hex wrenches IIRC. And if you're installing new seals (which you don't need to do every time), a certain diameter of PVC fitting/pipe fits the seals' outer diameter perfectly. I don't remember the diameter but I had it in my garage.
@rickybobby18: The seal press is a $20 piece of plastic but (like so make bike tools) makes an otherwise maddening job a non-event. See also: removing a headset, pressing in/removing bearings, installing a fork race, etc.
@plyawn: the right diameter PVC coupling also makes it a non-event, costs below a dollar probably, and is at your local hardware store. The pipe trick isn't a crappy hack - it works 100% perfectly.
@mobiller: and how much are rockshox seals? Probably just a couple few bucks (cost of a couple foam rings) less than the fox kit with seals and washers and rings.
@rickybobby18: I ain't risking those super soft alloy nuts anymore. It works super well on Rock Shox forks but the Fox nuts are made of jello and will die even with the right socket (ask me how I know)...
@m47h13u: bummer. I've done it many times (tapping with a rubber mallet on the bottom of the socket with the socket in place on the nut) on may forks over a decade or so no issues. But now that you said that I'm sure the next time I'll destroy a nut haha
@whiteranger3: It's an M8 x 1 mm pitch on the spring side and a modified M10 x 1 pitch on the damper side. I think you'll struggle to find something with an internal thread to suit (that's any better than the nut that you've just taken off) for either to be honest.
@bighitter: gotcha, thanks! i have some 3d printed pieces to go over the bolts when whacking with the mallet, hopefully those won't mar up the bolts too much.
@whiteranger3: no worries. If you're going down that route I'd try get some old fox nuts, the M10 side is approx .15 mm oversized if I remember correctly. In theory a nut that's been made with the thread major ID to top limit may fit but it's a bit of a gamble.
you can also buy FOX knock-offs on eBay from Poland for 2,5 times of the price. Quality is good... maybe even better than FOX. Gives me extra peace of mind as those aluminum nuts are very weak to me hammering on them with hard socket
@valrock: yea, definitely worth it for the peace of mind. I actually make and sell some of the aftermarket ones over here in the UK. I've spoken to quite a few customers who have only bought them after damaging the threads!
If you have a nice set of big sockets you can almost always find one that fits over the seals. Or any pipe. For example, an old ISIS BB tool fits perfectly over the 32mm seals. Probably irrelevant these days, but there you go.
And I only change seals if there is a leak.
@christinachapetta & PB fans: Realizing ya can google mosta this type of videos and bookmark / save anything, but does PB have a set of quick-links to in-house vids like this on servicing bikes? Seems like that could be a badass series / setup / quick way to get to PB-made vids. Just thinking out loud… maybe its just as fast to run a search on the site, but seems like if there was a main homepage link to a page where this is all organized by topic, that would rule.
@iammarkstewart: Word, seems easiest really. I prefer to just be on PB vs. youtube anyway. PB = core. U-tube = a sea of conspiracy nuts, parents, and never-ending everything else.
She has the benefit of a Pro garage. If you are doing this at home use a socket on the nut you removed from the foot with the nut several turns loose, and engaging several threads. Tap the socket with a hammer/mallet. Same as the fancy tools she used. Like she said, for the wipers you really only need to replace them if they are weeping oil onto the stanchions. Source some new foam rings (or clean the old ones) and crush washers before you do the service. That plus fresh oil is really the key element to this service. Don't be skeered. This is a simple job that done often will save your fork from needing serious work down the line.
"Fork Lowers Service At Home" this does not represent most home workshops, it should represent the reality of how most really do it, and thats without the costly tools such a seal press, lower leg tap thingimy amongst others, no fancy stand, its on the floor or the bench, if anything it can be fine bloody art to do with out the proper tools.
Wash out with thinners and re use the foam rings, seals, reverse or extra tighten the crush washers : )
Suggestion for next video: running brake lines internally and reconnecting them. The next week can be the bleed. And while we’re on the subject of brakes, maybe something about how to fix noisy stoppers.
Every rider should learn to do a lowers service. Tools/parts required are at a minimum and it's super easy and quick to do. Either follow a video or ask another rider friend for help. Honestly paying a shop to do this for you is a waste of money. It's one of the first things I learned to do along side brake bleeding. I haven't given any of my bikes over to a bike shop in years now. Learning to do things yourself is a useful things, plus you have full control and only yourself to blame if something goes wrong when out riding.
BTW for those who still uses socket and doesn't want to buy FOX tools... there is dude from Poland who sells FOX knock offs about 2,5 times cheaper... they are same maybe even better quality www.ebay.ca/usr/bitulpl?_trksid=p2047675.m3561.l2559
Sometimes riding the bike isn't everyone's most favorite part of this sport. Also why pay a mechanic to do a job that you're skilled and equipped to do?
@tacklingdummy: Oh, I see. I just thought you wouldn't service it because there are no parts (the video makes it seem you need parts, which isn't true).
she can come to my house in Wales and do me a service any time. i would show her the trails around Llangollen and Betws-y-Coed, then hopefully Bangor....
The more time you spend playing the mechanic on your bike the less time you ride, find yourself a trusty mechanic and let him do the job for you. Microeconomics 101.
If you like doing that, then ask yourself, are you a bike riding fan or a shop fan. I know there is a gray area in between, but in my experience the moment I stopped changing tires was when my riding skills started to increase.
No way dude. I can do my lowers in 45 min. Give it to a local shop and it's out for a week. Almost takes me as much time to do my lowers as it would to load my bike and drive it to the shop and back.
And the time you spend changing tires took that much time away from your riding? This isn't a zero sum game and it sounds like you need practice changing tires.
You learn so much about repairing when you work on your stuff. If things are too challenging then ask questions or take it in but there's absolutely no negatives to learning new skills
@rickybobby18: I cant do anything related to suspension, as most of subscribers on the website, i dont have the experience, for the people that do, go ahead, but it is not for me.
And changing a tire does take a while, especially with cushcore, i even bought the buttplug to help with the setup and nah, it takes me 1 hour at least, plus half an hour to set everything up. Consider that i am a father of a couple of toddlers, so that hour could change to a whole afternoon. I prefer to bring the bike to the mechanic and bring one of my daughters with me so she could see the latest bikes at the shop.
Time is money, yes, but it goes both ways. Changing a tire does not take much time even for an average person, but hiring it out could easily cost quite a bit more both in your own time to get to a shop and the price of hiring a shop to do it. Basic suspension service (fork lowers/oil/seals, shock air can) fits this category, too, along with brake pads/rotors, cables, even brake bleeding. Not much of a time spend even considering learning the steps, but can be quite a money & time spend getting a shop to do it. And what if the shop is busy? Have fun with those skills when not riding a bike that is stuck at the shop waiting for service. How much is your time worth then?
If you feel your own time is worth way more than that, shut up and spend your money quietly, quit being a dick about it.
Lol. Get out of here. Maybe pay someone to teach you how to work on your bike if you can’t figure it out without damaging something. This is bike maintenance, not rebuilding a car engine
@justinfoil: i dont agree on this "Basic suspension service (fork lowers/oil/seals, shock air can) fits this category, too, along with brake pads/rotors, cables, even brake bleeding" this does definitely require some experience.
I do agree on your last statement though, so i'll just leave it there.
I like to ride my bike and I also like to work on my bike. Working on my bike doesn't necessarily take time away from riding my bike. I do every repair, service, adjustment etc. myself. I save not just a bunch of money but time as well, since there are no good shops close to me, so i'd have to travel a bunch back and forth. I also have more confidence on my bike when I understand how everything works, I know how to adjust everything, service everything, and also I know that I touched everything on the bike and I don't have to put faith in some random bike mechanic. Also, when sh*t hits the fan when i'm out in the middle of nowhere, there is a bigger chance that i'll be able to Macgyver something and keep going when i'm actually familiar with how the stuff on my bike works. Bikes are pretty simple. Personally I always encourage people to learn to wrench on their own bikes. It's not for everyone, but a lot of people can/could do a lot, and you have all the info you'll ever need at your fingertips. Suspension is pretty simple as well. For some reason so many people are so afraid of it, and they think there is some kind of witchcraft going on inside a suspension fork, and they think they're going to release all the magic if they undo a bolt. It's all pretty simple stuff really. Doing a lower service is dead simple, and it can save you from headaches in the long run.
@HollyBoni: It’s the internal parts of suspension that are scary. Rebuilding a bladder-type damper or recharging a shock IFP are significantly more complicated procedures than a lowers service.
@MaplePanda: Personally I don't understand why they are scary. Just more steps and more parts. We are just taking apart, cleaning, and assembling things, changing a few parts and doing a few simple procedures like bleeding etc. Not engineering a shock/fork from scratch. Taking apart a damper is not rocket science, and 99% of the time you have detailed instruction manuals and videos available at your fingertips, and if you get stuck you have plenty of people online who will help you. True, IFPs can suck, but there are plenty of shocks out there where you can use a shock pump, and sometimes a "regular" one will do, you don't even need a high pressure one. For example the IFP pressure on a Super Deluxe is 250psi, you just need a pump adapter and that's it. But maybe i'm wrong. Dunno. Personally I always approached tinkering with a "you can do it" mentality and it always worked out. I worked as a mechanic as well, and I got the necessary knowledge from simply working on my own bikes at home.
LMAO this makes literally 0 sense. Doing your own service allows you to ride more. Less trips to the shop, less waiting in line behind other bikes being serviced and the more you know your bike and complete the task with ease and save money rather than paying someone to do it. Apparently you did not pay attention in microeconomics 101.
I'd argue that the absolute single greatest reason to maintain your own rig is because, without question, something will go wrong or break while you're 6mi into a ride somewhere. And it will usually be when you're 6mi from the car as well. You damn well better know how to work your rig.
@cmi85: Right on. Especially in an enduro race where the courses are rough, you have lots of riders around with lots of things to go wrong. In an XC or DH race you have one chance, but in enduro you can fix that thing and at least get good runs on four of the five stages etc. And its a great way to meet people - they never forget kindness.
@Narro2: The one who knows how to do does; the one who doesn't know how to do teaches; the one who can't teach teaches the teachers; the one you can't teach the teachers does politics.
@cmi85: yes it does, as long as you try to think a bit. you know: THINK. Après, peut-être que ma traduction n'est pas parfaite, mais le sens y est, et démerde-toi avec ça.
Dude, I couldn’t make that mistake even when I’m sober.
Where is that MtBike EASY button??
My “workshop” is at the attic above neighbors apartments. No insulation, just a 10” thick concrete slab. So every time I drop an allen key or fall over muc off degreaser can I need prepare myself to face a pissed off neighbor…
www.pinkbike.com/news/tech-tuesday-manitou-dorado-rebuild-2011.html?fbclid=IwAR07QnHbYUFOaPOBpQeubKkXWZ_kS5TDJAfRMYBYi3iCEHV4N6aQI9u-Erk
1. Make staff service things without giving them instructions, access to the internet or proper tools.
2. Do it in a PB academy format over several weeks with service followed by a race.
3. Have a set list of tools mostly from Lowes, with only very basic bike specific stuff that any hack would have like spoke wrench and cassette removal tool.
4. Have all the correct parts for the job but just dump them in a parts bin with a bunch of other parts
5. Have a link to the actual needed service video when you free lease each series.
6. Get the park tool guys to be guest judges and voice over the videos.
List of challenges:
1. Fix the taco with a broken spoke or 2
2. Service shock and fork
3. Change bottom bracket and cranks
4. Internal routed brake cable change, bleed and rotor size change
5. Change full drivetrain fron Sram to shimano ( or sh to Sr)
...
Flip the bike over, tap the bolts loose. Flip it back upright, drain the oil.
I'm sure they always do it for the videos because it looks so much tidier.
Most forks are at least $600-700. Is it really worth not spending the extra 15min to do it properly?
However, do unbolt the brake caliper and attach behind the saddle or somewhere that fork oil has no chance of reaching.
With the fork attached I drape the bike over a repair stand when draining the fork oil, and lay down cardboard when the flipping bike over to protect the levers from scratching.
You may not bend a rod once, but it is awkward flipping your bike upside down and right side up several times. It only takes once for it to slip out of your hands and land on the damper or spring rods, then you need a lot more work. The rods are sensitive and even knocking it over while sat upside down can damage them, is it really worth that risk over, what, 15 minutes or less?
As for debris, unless you are cleaning your entire bike prior to working on it, then it will most likely get something in there eventually. If you clean it, then it is less likely.
You do you, but not removing it has objective risks. It is not that complicated to do so and if you are not capable of removing the fork from the bike to work on it, then you shouldn't be messing with suspension in the first place.
@calmWAKI Prove you're actually Waki and give us a link to that video
So if I’m not servicing the air piston and just the seals/lowers I only burp the air chamber rather than letting all the air out, then forgetting works great.
Welp. I'm out. Ain't nobody can find that POS.
Fork was just a 2017 Rockshox Pike (200 hour service)
It's a fact that you pay for time and/or convenience. Saving that costs you yours.
Good job comparing apple to oranges, though.
Unscrew them all the way and use a steel bolt with the same thread for the tapping. Still Wat cheaper than the stupidly expensive Fox tool
it should represent the reality of how most really do it, and thats without the
costly tools such a seal press, lower leg tap thingimy amongst others, no fancy stand,
its on the floor or the bench, if anything it can be fine bloody art to do with out the proper tools.
Wash out with thinners and re use the foam rings, seals, reverse or extra tighten the crush washers : )
It's one of the first things I learned to do along side brake bleeding. I haven't given any of my bikes over to a bike shop in years now. Learning to do things yourself is a useful things, plus you have full control and only yourself to blame if something goes wrong when out riding.
Ok, for sure I´m single... :/
On my enduro I've got all rockshox so stoked to get my hands dirty.
ligament
And the time you spend changing tires took that much time away from your riding? This isn't a zero sum game and it sounds like you need practice changing tires.
And changing a tire does take a while, especially with cushcore, i even bought the buttplug to help with the setup and nah, it takes me 1 hour at least, plus half an hour to set everything up. Consider that i am a father of a couple of toddlers, so that hour could change to a whole afternoon. I prefer to bring the bike to the mechanic and bring one of my daughters with me so she could see the latest bikes at the shop.
If you feel your own time is worth way more than that, shut up and spend your money quietly, quit being a dick about it.
I do agree on your last statement though, so i'll just leave it there.
I do every repair, service, adjustment etc. myself. I save not just a bunch of money but time as well, since there are no good shops close to me, so i'd have to travel a bunch back and forth.
I also have more confidence on my bike when I understand how everything works, I know how to adjust everything, service everything, and also I know that I touched everything on the bike and I don't have to put faith in some random bike mechanic. Also, when sh*t hits the fan when i'm out in the middle of nowhere, there is a bigger chance that i'll be able to Macgyver something and keep going when i'm actually familiar with how the stuff on my bike works.
Bikes are pretty simple. Personally I always encourage people to learn to wrench on their own bikes. It's not for everyone, but a lot of people can/could do a lot, and you have all the info you'll ever need at your fingertips.
Suspension is pretty simple as well. For some reason so many people are so afraid of it, and they think there is some kind of witchcraft going on inside a suspension fork, and they think they're going to release all the magic if they undo a bolt. It's all pretty simple stuff really. Doing a lower service is dead simple, and it can save you from headaches in the long run.
Taking apart a damper is not rocket science, and 99% of the time you have detailed instruction manuals and videos available at your fingertips, and if you get stuck you have plenty of people online who will help you.
True, IFPs can suck, but there are plenty of shocks out there where you can use a shock pump, and sometimes a "regular" one will do, you don't even need a high pressure one. For example the IFP pressure on a Super Deluxe is 250psi, you just need a pump adapter and that's it.
But maybe i'm wrong. Dunno. Personally I always approached tinkering with a "you can do it" mentality and it always worked out. I worked as a mechanic as well, and I got the necessary knowledge from simply working on my own bikes at home.
Après, peut-être que ma traduction n'est pas parfaite, mais le sens y est, et démerde-toi avec ça.