Buying a mountain bike online can be a daunting task. Knowing the type of bike that would work best for you, how much you should spend, when to barter, and when to walk away. Tom Bradshaw breaks down buying a used mountain bike.
Wooeds = words Quistins = Questions taewo = Two Matin = Mountain Boike = Bike weah = Where Proice = price puhsun = person stips = steps tist = test pahnast = punished haash = harsh stio = still naou = no rit = red impodent = important sickond = second bahgan = bargain
LOL. Well done. But what a laugh. Lives in Canadia but has the Aussie accent. Not confusing at all! Someone needs to teach him how to say pro-ses and deckal.
@thedirtyburritto - this is too good, "pahnast" & "quistins". I think we need you on as a full time translator, some people seem to think I'm Aussie?! ha ha
Is this the part where someone says Canadian and US accents are exactly the same and we can't tell the difference between a Canadian and an American eh?!
You see the problem now is im going to inadvertantly start spelling these words this way in emails, and eventually start pronouncing them this way in casual conversation. Oh god why did i read this?!! ???????????? nice budy!
@streetkvnt-kvlt: To be fair, I think an eastern Canadian sounds more like an eastern/mid-western American than a western Canadian... who sounds pretty similar to a western American. Down south seems to have their whole own thing goin. It's when we compare health care that things get edgy
Yup. Personally I see a bike advertised from Squamish or St. George or wherever else there's a hardcore banger scene and warn off. Give me Costa Mesa or Florida or wherever else it's flatter and the people are older and tend to collect blingy bikes.
@conoat: SHHH. Trying to sell my Ripmo frame soon but can see Pisgah from my porch. It's only been crashed... 30,000 times, two rear triangles, fork stantions are new cuz they old ones were f*cked, headset and BB a little worse for wear. But hey, it's a fun bike!
I remember once someone re-selling Nate Hills’ “meticulously maintained” SB5... I distinctly remember watching that bike tomahawk down a rock slab in one Friday video haha. Of course, it was a yeti ridden by a pro so he was asking no less than $5k.
@hankj: variability in CO is like the weather. A lot of crushers riding bikes into the ground out here, but even more scenester bros thinking harder about how to look matchy-matchy than how to ride well.
@hankj: but definitely buy my bikes! ridden respectfully, maintained by a pro mechanic, service intervals always maintained(it helps when you only keep a bike 6 months), definitely never pushed past it's limits. Basically, ridden by your mum to church only.
@sspiff: yeah I'm sure. I'm in Seattle and ride long chunky techy descents, but am also not out more than twice a week during the rideable season, and overall am a mellow recreational rider and soft on my dentisty gear. Seattle is a wealthy city, and there are lot of people around here like me who can indulge in expensive hobbies they don't have much time for. And then there's also a lot of people who go really hard and smash the isht out of their bikes here too. Boulder must split the same way ....
@conoat: not entirely true. Just because they live in a trail mecca doesn't mean they're hucking off everything. There's no shortage of average beginner/intermediate riders in these places.
Look for bikes from Orange County, CA. Yes, there's a chance it may be a badass rider's thrashed ride, but the other 90% of bikes are $7000 bikes ridden exclusively on blue trails or XCed by rich older dudes.
@hankj: - true but there's countless more riders/bikes up here in the N.Shore/Squamish/Whistler than almost anywhere else which gives you options - granted i don't EVER believe the line "never been crashed"
@conoat: not always true. Some people in those places have sooo many bikes that some don’t get ridden. I bought a demo from the owner of a local bike manufacturer. It’s more than a year old and was just used for testing parts. Its in incredible shape and has great spec.
@conoat: amen. I bought a Transition factory (Bellingham) demo, and while the paint was fine, it clearly had been put through its paces. Fork bottom out bumpers were lodged in the stanchions, fork oil looked like Coca Cola, and the bearings were crunchy. Lesson learned.
@andeh23: wooooooooah! Transition sent their FACTORY demo's out for resale like that? that is f*cked. I have worked for a couple manufacturers, and all the demos always got a 600000000 point inspection and full ground up rebuild(bearings, full sus service, brake bleed, new pads/tires if under 40% etc).
@conoat: Morzine i am gonna say it is fine, I would not buy bike from Chatel/Morgins/Champery hahaha.
Bought a bike in Vancouver it was fine, just stay away from European brands because the parts are hard to find and get. The same thing for European suspension brand BOS, old Marzocchi or wheels like Mavic etc. But it is doable i had BOS and Marzocchi in Canada and serviced the forks myself. You have to shop around to get the seals and the information.
For brakes I will recommend to stick with Shimano easy to maintain and you can find parts everywhere. I had Magura brakes and many shops told me they don't service this brand and good luck to find pads. Always buy extra brake pads especially in the alps.
@zoobab2: Idk why they are like that, they are a small company and they probably did invest in customer services for the Mtb sector. Love their products way better than RS or Fox imo.
@conoat: i bought a used demo bike in Whistler due to unforseen circumstances... (Stayed an extra week and it was cheaper for me to buy and sell when i got home) It has been a rock solid guest bike in the garage for the last 4 years and owes me absolutely nothing.
@Ba1rog: I found Morzine to Chatel to be less than an hours pedal (on a hire DH bike).... I kinda think there's not much difference 'tween those locales.
@Ba1rog: Yeah Chat/Morg/Cham is way better riding. But the point i was making is that a bike from a local in Morzine has probably been getting the smash over there as well as just the boring Plenny laps (though there is some fun pirate shit on the Plenny and below the Zore like Porridge). When I'm in Morzine I do most of my riding over at Chatel to be honest as its super easy to get to from Morzine.
@mudcycles: Glad Kiwis like my place hahaha ! I love Chatel even if it is pretty scary sometimes but Morgins and Champery are amazing for technical stuff !
I've bought 3 full sus bikes on PB, two high end ($3500+) bikes:
Calculate the cost for the following: - Complete fork, shock, and dropper post factory overhaul ($550) - New headset and bottom bracket ($100) - New shifter and shifter cables ($90) - New brake pads, fresh brake bleed, new rotors ($100+) - New chain ($50) - New grips and frame and shock/fork decals (swag) ($60) - New tires ($140) - Additional budget to cover misc items such as bearings, cassette, derailleur ($100)
That totals $1190. Use due diligence questions to determine how much of that money you will actually have to spend on deferred maintenance. Then take that finding to drop their list price 6,7, $800 or more... And there's your bike.
Use PayPal goods and services in case of material damage to the frame etc.
I would ALWAYS assume at a bare minimum $500 in deferred maintenance. Do that and you'll probably come out happy with your net spend, all said.
This sounds very environmentally irresponsible, half of these things are completely unnecessary most of the time, especially stickers! Mountain bikers need to acknowledge the unsustainability of constant upgrades and kashima-konsumerism.
I actually just picked up a retired bike park rental this winter (desperate times call for desperate measures). Here's my list so far for comparison: - Fork rebuild (done myself) - $50 - Shock rebuild (by my shop) - $160 - Bottom bracket - $30 - Headset - $40 - New dropper post - $200 - Replaced main pivot bearings (done myself) - $20 - Swapped grips from my old bike - $0 - Swapped tires from my old bike and set up tubeless - $0 - Cleaned and adjusted drivetrain - $0 - Trued wheels - $0
That's actually right at your $500 estimate which I would say is a pretty good assumption for most people. I did a lot of work myself and swapped over some old parts, but this bike was about as haggard as they come. With all of the new wear parts, the bike honestly feels fresher than any bike I've ever owned, I'm just hoping the frame doesn't crack anytime too soon!
@SuperHighBeam: I mostly ride on Earth, where the vast majority of bicycles are well under $3500. Riding in a wealthy area does not change the fact that an overwhelming number of bicycles are inexpensive or that owning a bicycle in excess of even $1000 is an insane luxury to a staggering number of people worldwide. This whole sport needs to check its privilege.
I've already either done most of the things you listed myself or priced it relative to its current condition. No way I'm coming down in asking price $600-1000 because you plan on performing a suspension, brake, and drivetrain overhaul. I'll sell to one of the other 5 dudes blowing up my inbox for my asking price. Not a buyer's market right now, unfortunately.
@godii: in BC you used to be able to get top of the line bikes that were only a few seasons old for that much in Canadian dollars.. i got my 2014 Norco Range LE for $3750 in 2016.. the bike was a $9000 bike brand new and its still shredding.
@graham2017: if you’ve done most of those things you’re a better seller than 90% of the sellers out there. And for me, this type of due diligence and negotiating will occur regardless of the market context.. I used this successfully to buy a 2018 Yeti SB5 Turq X01 for $3200 during COVID last year .. Put about $650 in and it’s in perfect shape now. my method just gives legitimacy to negotiating price and sets a proper expectation for the buyer for the condition of the bike. In a sellers market it just takes more time to find the right purchase.
@fullfacemike: You make a good point here, but I also think it is worth mentioning that a bike that is sold for $3500 in the USA does not command the same price in other international markets, especially in developing countries. My point is that you could buy a $3500 bike for far less in those countries but they'd still be comparatively expensive in those respective communities. USA is rich enough though that this market can command that price and will gladly pay that price. Is it right that such a high price is commanded, hard to say. I would also add that owning a bike of a certain caliber is definitely a luxury inaccessible by most, but it also isn't needed or pursued by most. I know for a fact that mountain biking is seen as a top tier sport in the Philippines accessible to only the other the very successful. I would also add that while the vast majority of bicycles cost far south of $3500 or even $1000, the vast majority of them are also not mountain bikes and of a generally low quality that is acceptably suitable to the rider they target. The Pinkbike crowd is a niche market that requires high performance equipment to enjoy their sport fully. I think this community knows how privileged it is but perhaps we're a bit too greedy.
@digitalsoul: no people just think baristas should be able to afford bikes too, you know, so the sport doesn’t get filled with rich exclusionary jerks....oh .... wait.... crap.
Same goes for sellers. Funny how many people are advertising 3+ year old, well-used bikes and forks with only a 20% discount to the original MSRP. Bikes do not retain value and I’d argue they depreciate at an even faster rate than cars since geometry change make a huge difference and parts wear quickly.
@diegosk: it is hard to price a used bike with prices going up so quickly. There are some price gougers for sure, but what do I price I bike that I bought last year that went up in price 28% with a handful of upgrades? My incoming bike is also 17% more than last year with similar specs. Honestly, it's hard to put a price on right now. I sold my bike last year at the start of the pandemic buying frenzy in about 2 hours so I think the price was too fair? Since you mentioned vehicles, same market conditions. People are selling Tacoma's and other sought after units for what they paid a few years ago.
@JayUpNorth: I guess in the current environment (high demand/low supply), I can’t be upset with people getting the maximum the market is willing to pay for their stuff (get your money my people). I guess my comment sentiment came from pre-pandemic memories of people who refused to come to terms with the fact they spent a large amount of money on a depreciating asset. I am a believer that a good portion of a bike or part’s value (especially with carbon and suspension components) is intangible in the form of warranty which is something one usually has to forgo when purchasing second hand.
@thisspock: I hate to admit this, but Moutain biking is a high cost to entry sport right along with Alpine/Backcountry Skiing/Snowboarding, Packrafting/WhitewaterKayaking, Wakeboarding, Supping, Paragliding, Kiteboarding, Wakeboarding...the list goes on. The rich are able to partake in a greater number of these high cost activities while the less well off can only do one or two. Although not a barista, but also not a Dentist, I've had to carefully pick which activities I like most since I do not have either the time nor the money to tend to more than a few outdoor hobbies.
@diegosk: 100% agree. Getting a bike from a solid lbs is another intangible that solidified my new purchase as well. I was soured on my last bike immediately after it came in with questionable substitutions and the manufacturer and seller didn't make an attempt to make things right.
It’s a sad thing when you have to worry about the ethics of a lbs or a manufacturer the same way you do about a guy who has nothing but DH vids on his profile,but claims his 3+year old rig has been gently ridden and massaged@JayUpNorth:
@orphan: Wow that is unethical. My experience was annoying but I was offered a full refund, so it wasn't unethical. But by that time, everything close to that price had sold out and I had sold my old bike so I had to spend more money right after I got laid off due to covid.
@diegosk: Yeah over here, what I see is people selling a used bike from the year before with 15% off the full MSRP when 1-an online shop of the same country is selling the bike new 30% off msrp 2-any bikeshop offers a 10% discount on the full price if you ask for it (at least here) 3-local Bikeshop actually sell the bike new for the same price (15%off)
People don't understand that bikes and cars don't follow the same depreciation logic
theres always that person who wants way too much for their 16in trailbike because it was flagship in 2014 and has been sitting in a shed for 5 years.
dont be that guy, dont buy that bike.
This one got me. The guy listed the shock at 65x205, I checked with him 3 times. Got the shock and it was a 65x200. His response "I don't know why I did that". Thanks Jake mapes...
This is a good one. If the bike is "in perfect condition, absolutely nothing wrong!" unless it's less than 1 year old and clearly hasn't been ridden at all, just move on. Ask when the last suspension service was, if they aren't sure or it was greater than a year ago, the true answer is probably never. Ask if they've checked the bearings/headset/bb lately for smoothness, if they haven't, plan on replacing all of them. Ask when the last brake bleed was done and how they feel, to send pics of all the scratches in the paint/frame/rims/stanchions of fork and dropper.
@tgent: i don't fear what i know is wrong/needs to be replaced when looking around for a used rig - it's the unknown and that bearings/headset/bb bit sums it up totally
Account history is at least somewhat informative. I try to avoid selling to / buying from a new account with no post history or even a profile picture. Likewise, for example, I've been selling stuff here for like 15 years and people can see that history, and fairly assume I'm not scamming folks.
I don't disagree that having a rating/review system would help, but because most people are low-volume buyers and sellers, a rating system is just going to advantage the shops and high-volume sellers on here.
I could use that system right now. I sold a Fox 34 to a guy a couple months back for $400, it had a new CSU, plenty of lower services, but 1900 miles on the damper without a rebuild. Lo and behold he has relisted it for $550 and advertising it as "barely ridden". Guaranteed he has not touched the damper.
History only tells you about the seller. I’ve been lucky, lots of cool dudes out here. This video made me nervous as hell though: m.youtube.com/watch?v=qQH3MxLCoR8
The intention is that the ones to avoid are banned from the site.
Mostly through social policing and users reporting suspicious activity, the community functions in a manner to protect itself and improve the quality as a unit. You can always report someone out of concern - there is no permanent flag on their account if nothing out of the ordinary is found. You can also always message me, I am focused on cleaning up the BuySell ads and investigating suspected fraud or potential scams.
While I agree that would be an improvement, I've always had excellent experiences buying on PB Buy and Sell. Generally you're almost guaranteed that someone who is on PB and has an account that's older than the post, says they are a serious biker and not trying to scam you. PB is too small for scammers to care about it.
That said, ya you'll get some bad eggs every once in a while, and you still have to look out for people misrepresenting things, but you're prob going to actually receive the item you bought.
@isaacschmidt: Just wanted to chime in to say thanks for doing what you do! PB's buy sell is a pretty amazing corner of the internet. I bought my first real mountain bike on here back in 2015, and have been buying/selling on the site fairly regularly ever since, so far without a single bad experience.
@rideitall-bmx-dh-road-unicycle: Whoa there little baby. Why don't you help out and do some moderating for little to no pay on your free time? It seems you don't have work or anything else going on to site on a site and bitch and moan. I have personally seen many times over @isaacschmidt help out many people in various threads.
On the video call, which should be mandatory, ask them to flip the bike upside down and pan the camera over the frame serial number. Get out a physical pen and paper pad to write it down and let them see that you have it. Honest sellers love this. Bike thieves go pale and hang up. Report bike thieves.
PS I hate bike thieves.
@SuperHighBeam: I think he meant the thief is the seller. If a serial number is reported stolen, the thief seller doesn't want you the have that number.
As tight as the market is, if I didn't like riding so much, I bet I could get MORE than I paid for my Jeffsy if I listed it. Frame wrapped since day 1, everything in good nick. I bet I could get at least $2,500 for it! Maybe I could sell off my old 26" Kona....
I got a huge bargain 3 years ago: model year 2016 YT CAPRA, reciept from january 2017, bought at the beginning of 2018 from a roadie who only did mellow trails. the conditions were near-new, and I paid 1300 euros for it.
SUPER happy! But it took me a couple of months of hard, daily research to find my dream-machine!
PRO TIP: If you have a low budget and looking for a bargain, just have patience and do your daily research. You will eventually find your dream bike!
THIS is the key, almost more than anything else. If you are looking for a particular bike, patience is the answer. I was looking for a particular bike a few years ago, but I was in a hurry and bought something *close*. I hated it within days and sold it on. Last year, even in pandemic times, I did my research and just waited, which was tough - I had the cash and needed a bike. Took 3 months, but one day up popped the Craigslist search alert for exactly what I was looking for and I pounced. Super happy I waited.
Being an rider of a certain size, that size being 6'3" and 210lbs, might I add that, generally speaking, how cautious you are about buying a used mountain bike ought to increase as the frame size gets bigger? Not in all cases but in generally bigger frame equals heavier rider, and all those parts and pivots and bolts get stressed way more by a Clyde.
I ride with a guy who is a 6'4" #235 ex national team level road racer. Carries some fat but can still really ride a bike fast and hard for being a big man. Before he drops my on descents I listen with amusement to his bike creak and groan and bottom out, feel sorry for the sucker who buys it when he's ready to make a change ....
Moral of story size XL rider? Consider strongly going down one level in parts and buying new
Buying a used bike is not neurosurgery, but if you have a friend who is a bicycle mechanic, please run the bike you are considering by them. Or even better, bribe them with beer/food to run through the bike with a fine-toothed comb.
I lost count count long ago of how many times I have seen people show me or bring into the shop their "new" bike that has serious problems that outweigh any "deal" they think they got.
I think scratched Stanchions can be fine... Provided the fork rides/services well with no oil/air loss or dirt ingress... It's more of a bargaining chip if you know about the history/service of the bike (like a buddy is selling it to you). Granted there can be obvious horrifying looking stanchions with sharp burrs, etc., but if it's been taken care of (filed/smoothed), no reason to look past an awesome bike!
@iduckett: No no, you're definitely sort of right. My sigother scratched her stanchion about 4 years ago on a rock when she was first learning to ride. I told her it was probably done for, but here we are 4 years later and its running fine still. Services have turned up no excess of dirt getting in, and no evidence of snagging on the seals/rings. Its not always great, but its also not always the end.
Great video! I would also say that in addition to working out your budget, you need to get an idea of what you *should* be paying for a particular used bike. I typically haggle on new bikes and get a 10-15% discount off of MSRP, and some people are better hagglers and get even better deals. So, I would say the highest you should ever pay for a bike in practically new condition would be no more than 80% of the original MSRP, and that would be at the very high end. As a rough guide, a good deal would be something no more than 3 years old, and priced at 40-60% of original MSRP depending on age and condition.
I would say that's probably solid advice under normal circumstances. For at least the next year or so I doubt anyone's going to be getting much off the MSRP of a brand new bike. Also used bike prices have been crazy high so most people selling aren't coming anywhere near 40% off - let alone 60%.
@pumpjumpnflow: Yeah, agreed, things are a bit different now. I anticipated the price increases and shortages and grabbed a new bike at the beginning of the quarantine -- and I paid the MSRP. I thought I was doing the LBS a bit of a favor, but it turns out that their business has been better than ever. I sold a couple as well and probably could have gotten a bit more for them, but I mainly just wanted them to get some good use.
@TenBeers: Yeah I happened to grab a new bike a few months ago and there was no wiggle room on the MSRP! I was planning on grabbing used but it just didn't make as much sense anymore with the way pricing developed and it was now or never so waiting weeks on PB Classified wasn't going to be an option.
I know he mentioned the words chain wear one time but that doesn't help the unknowing.
If you are going to buy a used bike, buy a chain checker tool. The tool is usually around $10 and is used to measure chain stretch.
As a bike is ridden, the metal on metal parts will inevitably wear down, and more so if the owner does not do proper maintenance. As the rollers/pins in a chain wear down, it causes the chain to "stretch". As the chain stretches, it wears down the cassette and chainring teeth to match that chain stretch.
If the owner does proper bike maintenance, they check the chain wear regularly and when it gets to a certain point, they replace the chain (while it's still possible) with a new chain. Doing this as needed will prolong the life of the cassette and chainrings.
If the owner does NOT do proper maintenance, and they don't check chain wear, the chain "stretches" so significantly, that you can no longer just put a new chain on because it doesn't mesh with how much the cassette and chainring teeth have worn down. When this happens, you must replace the entire drivetrain, which depending on the model, can be pricey.
I've spoken with so many people selling bikes on here that are several years old. They want top dollar for it, it's fully stock, they have never changed components. Right away, you know it's going to need a full drivetrain.
I won't explain how to measure the chain wear but it is very simple and anyone can do it. I'm sure there is a video on the old interweb.
There are many other simple things to check for. Rather than type it all out, maybe one of these days I'll make a proper video that actually demonstrates.
I've bougth a 2019 stumpy comp 29 in January last year. The guy always get rid of his bike each year ( he's an ambassador for a lbs). To be fair, he must not be a really hard charging guy or just do parking lot post ride drinking... The chain was like new ( have to change it this year), he managed to ride with a GRID rear tire (purgatory) without any flat tyres... The bike only has a couple of scratches. Litterally the best deal i've could've get.
One thing that isn’t talked about much with buying nice bikes is resale. If you can get a decent deal on a newish model, take good care of it, and sell it before the new model comes out, your cost will be pretty low in the end. I got a RM Instinct in 2018 for $2500, did some smart upgrades on it, and sold it for $3200 at the end of 2020 after riding it a lot.
So, normally that is called "scalping" when you sell for more than you paid due to the demand situation, unless its a completely new, upgraded rebuild just on the same frame....which essentially just means its a completely different bike. That is really only possible due to the COVID situation. Lots of people doing it, but its not the norm because bikes, just like cars, plummet in resale value after use and loss of warranty. But yes, there are ways to approach keeping decent resale.
I always find the best dam ridiculously good deals when it comes to purchasing bikes for my wife! Probably because we're never really looking for her when I find them but the deals are so good we can't pass them up. Lol. I guess the moral is start looking for a bike before you really need it. As long as you enjoy the hunt!
@Dornbox: lol this winter one of the local bike shop owners was selling her bike and it was to good of a deal to pass up. Easy Christmas present for my wife.
Buying a bike in a pandemic is like buying toilet paper, grab the first one you see and prepare to fight for it. Grab as many as you can and hoard them.
Bought two used bikes on PB. A Furtado and a SB100. Great prices. Great bikes and I got to meet some great bike folks too. The PB Buy/Sell has been a wonderful asset living in a rural town.
When I bought a 2011 Yeti 303 I didn't check the wobble in the front fork and had to replace some bushings. Not a huge deal but worth checking when looking at a used bike.
There IS a seller reputation program on pinkbike -sort of. It's the trail karma system. Bike thieves and scammers don't donate $1000s of dollars to trail work.
I would also advise against buying 26" wheel bikes; some parts are getting very hard to find. Not being able to get new wheels or fork can be a big problem if you're planning to run the bike medium-long term.
I dont know about this, everybody needs a long, low and slack bike with at least 160 mm of travel !
Now because this video,PB used bike sales will be harder to make for people selling their rig. LOL !
i am never going to purchase a used bike, if i am spending that amount of money i want something completely new, i might sacrifice on certain things but i know my bike is good out of the box, or at least fully warranted.
Still i am giving my boy Tom a watch.
BTW, careful with the accordion hands.
I have never bought a new bike because "that amount of money" that I spend on used bikes wouldnt buy much at all new. I service everything apart from complex suspension myself. I currently Have 3 "mid-tier" several-year-old bikes for less than one new bike would cost and couldn't be happier!
@DownhillDoozy: nice, i guess the key is in the "I service everything", i dont like toying with the mechanicals of my bikes unless i really need to, i own a fabrication shop and when i get home, the least thing i wanna do is getting my hands greaser.
The only thing i really fiddle with is rebounds speeds and air pressures on suspensions and tires. The rest i rather pay the local friendly mechanic. He is a good fellow to have a beer with too.
Why? CF doesn't fatigue like aluminium. CF is much easier to repair than aluminium in case it does break. Which it probably won't since it's also more durable than aluminium. Sounds to me like a potentially safer used option.
The only issue might be that some (relatively rare) types of damage might be harder to detect in carbon fibre (delaminating inside the frame). Just know who you're buying from. I would buy neither alu nor CF if I suspected the bike was hucked every day. There are enough middle aged trail centre warriors selling lightly used bikes to not bother with the riskier ones.
@thedirtyburritto: Where did I assume anything in my comment? And what do you mean by "unsafe"? What are you referring to as "unsafe"? Something I said? Carbon frames? You're not making much sense dude.
You know what pal, I love to chat bollocks about bikes as much as the next guy but even I pass when it gets to a certain level of absurdity. You've proven many times you have exactly zero clue what you're talking about and faced with facts you cover your ears and scream "nanana I can't hear you" like a spoiled kid who can't get his way so yeah... Good luck with your little crusade.
@bananowy: I've probably been riding and racing mountain bikes before you were a twinkle in your dad's eye. I've seen it all and heard it all. Carbon is not as strong, durable or damage resistant as aluminum or steel. Never has been never will be.
@MattP76: This guy is on a high horse dude. He accuses you of not listening but he is the one with covered ears. Typical. Accuse people of what you are doing to make yourself look better. @bananowy is clearly a stuck up C$%T
@MattP76: No you weren't and no you haven't buddy, you're only 45. Mentally closer to 12 though if you still think that impresses anyone. Carbon bikes were aplenty before you took training wheels off, you just didn't see them around your village.
You read that right, no typos. I know you're not gonna quit typing bullshit on PB but at least now each time you do, there will be no doubt as to whether you're just uneducated or are making a conscious choice to make a clown of yourself. You're welcome.
I'm obviously not going to help you fix 45 years of ignorance in a PB comment, that's not on me. All I can do for you is show compassion. I get it, pal. It's easy to convince yourself you've seen it all when your world is limited to the quiet little town that you never left.
@ridingofthebikes You're goddamn right I'm a stuck up c*nt. You know why? Because I can back it up all day. Now sit down boy.
@bananowy: Following on my my previous comment I do find you amusing
Your town is Bristol and last two times I visited that toilet it was covered in graffiti from head to toe! Making comments about other people's home town is a bit rich lol.
Also, you can post stats all you like if it amuses you. However in the real world carbon has never been stronger than metal ever!
Exampes:
You can't over tighten bolts on carbon bars as it may cause them to snap. I've been over tightening bolts on metal bars for over 30 years and never had one snap ever!
Carbon bikes are massively over built verses a steel bike. This is the only way to give it the strength. If you built a carbon bike with same size tubes as a steel it would snap!
Raceface launched their carbon cranks a few years ago claiming they were 'lighter, stiffer, stronger, better' than their metal cranks. Then they only warranted them for 3 years yet their metal cranks had a lifetime warranty!!
A recent interview on this very site with an EWS racer said he would not ride carbon bars and he has seen so many snap. A professional racer said that not me!!
Over the years I have been riding and racing I have seen and experienced so many carbon bikes and components break and snap that has slways far outweighed the fellow metal made products
However, seen as you are the one who is quite clearly in charge as being an alpha Bristolian may I ask your permission to form my own opinion?
ive bought a Norco Range, and a Norco Aurum, both carbon, both used.. both bikes are dialed and have been running great for years (with a bit of work and minor repairs of course). Ive paid less for both bikes combine than a single one would cost brand new.
Wooeds = words
Quistins = Questions
taewo = Two
Matin = Mountain
Boike = Bike
weah = Where
Proice = price
puhsun = person
stips = steps
tist = test
pahnast = punished
haash = harsh
stio = still
naou = no
rit = red
impodent = important
sickond = second
bahgan = bargain
As for all the downvotes. Damn, folks, lighten up.
B.C./Whistler/Squamish
Santa Cruz and/or Tahoe
Moab
Morzine
Finale Ligure
thats no bueno
Bought a bike in Vancouver it was fine, just stay away from European brands because the parts are hard to find and get. The same thing for European suspension brand BOS, old Marzocchi or wheels like Mavic etc.
But it is doable i had BOS and Marzocchi in Canada and serviced the forks myself. You have to shop around to get the seals and the information.
For brakes I will recommend to stick with Shimano easy to maintain and you can find parts everywhere. I had Magura brakes and many shops told me they don't service this brand and good luck to find pads. Always buy extra brake pads especially in the alps.
We don't go to les Gets/Morzine, there is too much ppl, the trails are meh even if you have tons of hidden gems.
I like Zore offseason, especially with beginners.
But the point i was making is that a bike from a local in Morzine has probably been getting the smash over there as well as just the boring Plenny laps (though there is some fun pirate shit on the Plenny and below the Zore like Porridge). When I'm in Morzine I do most of my riding over at Chatel to be honest as its super easy to get to from Morzine.
Just sold it to fund another project.
Calculate the cost for the following:
- Complete fork, shock, and dropper post factory overhaul ($550)
- New headset and bottom bracket ($100)
- New shifter and shifter cables ($90)
- New brake pads, fresh brake bleed, new rotors ($100+)
- New chain ($50)
- New grips and frame and shock/fork decals (swag) ($60)
- New tires ($140)
- Additional budget to cover misc items such as bearings, cassette, derailleur ($100)
That totals $1190. Use due diligence questions to determine how much of that money you will actually have to spend on deferred maintenance. Then take that finding to drop their list price 6,7, $800 or more... And there's your bike.
Use PayPal goods and services in case of material damage to the frame etc.
I would ALWAYS assume at a bare minimum $500 in deferred maintenance. Do that and you'll probably come out happy with your net spend, all said.
- Fork rebuild (done myself) - $50
- Shock rebuild (by my shop) - $160
- Bottom bracket - $30
- Headset - $40
- New dropper post - $200
- Replaced main pivot bearings (done myself) - $20
- Swapped grips from my old bike - $0
- Swapped tires from my old bike and set up tubeless - $0
- Cleaned and adjusted drivetrain - $0
- Trued wheels - $0
That's actually right at your $500 estimate which I would say is a pretty good assumption for most people. I did a lot of work myself and swapped over some old parts, but this bike was about as haggard as they come. With all of the new wear parts, the bike honestly feels fresher than any bike I've ever owned, I'm just hoping the frame doesn't crack anytime too soon!
Yeah over here, what I see is people selling a used bike from the year before with 15% off the full MSRP when
1-an online shop of the same country is selling the bike new 30% off msrp
2-any bikeshop offers a 10% discount on the full price if you ask for it (at least here)
3-local Bikeshop actually sell the bike new for the same price (15%off)
People don't understand that bikes and cars don't follow the same depreciation logic
I don't disagree that having a rating/review system would help, but because most people are low-volume buyers and sellers, a rating system is just going to advantage the shops and high-volume sellers on here.
m.youtube.com/watch?v=qQH3MxLCoR8
Maybe I could sell off my old 26" Kona....
SUPER happy! But it took me a couple of months of hard, daily research to find my dream-machine!
PRO TIP: If you have a low budget and looking for a bargain, just have patience and do your daily research. You will eventually find your dream bike!
Buy the women's version if you want less wear/tear/abuse on a used bike. Certainly only a probabilistic move! But certainly tipped in your favor.
I ride with a guy who is a 6'4" #235 ex national team level road racer. Carries some fat but can still really ride a bike fast and hard for being a big man. Before he drops my on descents I listen with amusement to his bike creak and groan and bottom out, feel sorry for the sucker who buys it when he's ready to make a change ....
Moral of story size XL rider? Consider strongly going down one level in parts and buying new
I lost count count long ago of how many times I have seen people show me or bring into the shop their "new" bike that has serious problems that outweigh any "deal" they think they got.
If you are going to buy a used bike, buy a chain checker tool. The tool is usually around $10 and is used to measure chain stretch.
As a bike is ridden, the metal on metal parts will inevitably wear down, and more so if the owner does not do proper maintenance. As the rollers/pins in a chain wear down, it causes the chain to "stretch". As the chain stretches, it wears down the cassette and chainring teeth to match that chain stretch.
If the owner does proper bike maintenance, they check the chain wear regularly and when it gets to a certain point, they replace the chain (while it's still possible) with a new chain. Doing this as needed will prolong the life of the cassette and chainrings.
If the owner does NOT do proper maintenance, and they don't check chain wear, the chain "stretches" so significantly, that you can no longer just put a new chain on because it doesn't mesh with how much the cassette and chainring teeth have worn down. When this happens, you must replace the entire drivetrain, which depending on the model, can be pricey.
I've spoken with so many people selling bikes on here that are several years old. They want top dollar for it, it's fully stock, they have never changed components. Right away, you know it's going to need a full drivetrain.
I won't explain how to measure the chain wear but it is very simple and anyone can do it. I'm sure there is a video on the old interweb.
There are many other simple things to check for. Rather than type it all out, maybe one of these days I'll make a proper video that actually demonstrates.
Not being able to get new wheels or fork can be a big problem if you're planning to run the bike medium-long term.
The only thing i really fiddle with is rebounds speeds and air pressures on suspensions and tires. The rest i rather pay the local friendly mechanic. He is a good fellow to have a beer with too.
At least around here they last about 0.5 seconds before getting sold.
Also I have a bridge to sell you....
The only issue might be that some (relatively rare) types of damage might be harder to detect in carbon fibre (delaminating inside the frame). Just know who you're buying from. I would buy neither alu nor CF if I suspected the bike was hucked every day. There are enough middle aged trail centre warriors selling lightly used bikes to not bother with the riskier ones.
You know what pal, I love to chat bollocks about bikes as much as the next guy but even I pass when it gets to a certain level of absurdity. You've proven many times you have exactly zero clue what you're talking about and faced with facts you cover your ears and scream "nanana I can't hear you" like a spoiled kid who can't get his way so yeah... Good luck with your little crusade.
"cArBoN iS nOt As StRoNg"
Tensile strength:
6061: 290 MPa
7075: 510 MPa
4130: 560 MPa
T800S: 5880 MPa
You read that right, no typos. I know you're not gonna quit typing bullshit on PB but at least now each time you do, there will be no doubt as to whether you're just uneducated or are making a conscious choice to make a clown of yourself. You're welcome.
I'm obviously not going to help you fix 45 years of ignorance in a PB comment, that's not on me. All I can do for you is show compassion. I get it, pal. It's easy to convince yourself you've seen it all when your world is limited to the quiet little town that you never left.
@ridingofthebikes You're goddamn right I'm a stuck up c*nt. You know why? Because I can back it up all day. Now sit down boy.
Your town is Bristol and last two times I visited that toilet it was covered in graffiti from head to toe! Making comments about other people's home town is a bit rich lol.
Also, you can post stats all you like if it amuses you. However in the real world carbon has never been stronger than metal ever!
Exampes:
You can't over tighten bolts on carbon bars as it may cause them to snap. I've been over tightening bolts on metal bars for over 30 years and never had one snap ever!
Carbon bikes are massively over built verses a steel bike. This is the only way to give it the strength. If you built a carbon bike with same size tubes as a steel it would snap!
Raceface launched their carbon cranks a few years ago claiming they were 'lighter, stiffer, stronger, better' than their metal cranks. Then they only warranted them for 3 years yet their metal cranks had a lifetime warranty!!
A recent interview on this very site with an EWS racer said he would not ride carbon bars and he has seen so many snap. A professional racer said that not me!!
Over the years I have been riding and racing I have seen and experienced so many carbon bikes and components break and snap that has slways far outweighed the fellow metal made products
However, seen as you are the one who is quite clearly in charge as being an alpha Bristolian may I ask your permission to form my own opinion?
C**k!
Ive paid less for both bikes combine than a single one would cost brand new.