PRESS RELEASE: Formula
Our new two-piece lever, equipped with FCS (Feeling Control System) and TFRA (Tool-Free Reach Adjustment), is designed to increase the adjustability of our Enduro and Downhill brakes. The Feeling Control System enables the rider to customize the lever to suit their needs, potentially resulting in better performance and comfort. Additionally, the rider can fine tune the balance between the lever's feel and braking power, which wasn't previously an option.
A new system has been developed to attempt to optimize the ergonomics for the Cura, Cura 4, and Cura X.
In addition to the tool free adjustments, the lever has small perforations that provide more feel and grip, especially if the lever is wet. Furthermore, we believe that all riders should have access to these new features, so the lever can only be purchased as a spare part.
This lever is compatible with the Cura, Cura 4, and Cura X braking systems, although it is best suited for the Cura 4.
TFRA / FCS Brake lever Kit have a retail price of €85.80
For more information please visit rideformula.com
Paul Aston agrees:
I never had issues with the original mt5 levers either.
Our dollar has since dropped over 7 cents on the Euro unfortunately so the deal is much less appealing for us. Still amazing value for Europeans though.
I'm not the one writing headlines here .
Who writes these shitty articles without any useful information?
Is that a thing? I have the Cura4 on my enduro bike with bigger rotors and Galfer pads, and I'm not convinced it's equal/less powerful than the Cura with Galfer pads on my "downcountry" bike.
I'm sure it is more fade resistant, but I live in NC and that rarely matters.
Anyways, Formula brakes for life...my only complaint is gone, and you can buy them from across the pond for cheaper than grabbing a competitor in the states.
I added this step to an XT brake bleed and a ton of bubbles come out. The brake had wandering bite point syndrome and since then it is working fine,same solid lever feel. That bike is from a good friend,he had some trouble when taking the bike out home in the elevator ( or at least he noticed in that situation). It is a commuter bike.
You need to bleed the caliper too and no one I know does it. It is mandatory for new brakes IMO,no matter the brand. Some brakes would be almost 100% with a regular bleed,but not Shimano one´s. You think the lever is firm,till you heat you brakes and bubbles start to move around and find your lever or simply the wrong place...
This is well known in track car/bikes,you could find yourself hitting the barrier cos bad bleed brakes.
That´s why you need to move pistons one by one in and out to fully bleed the caliper too. Shimano brakes with wandering bite point= air in the system you can´t bleed with the funnel/syringe if you do not work the caliper.
I haven't tried your suggestion of pushing the slave pistons in and out though. I just push them all the way back as that way there is no where for the bubbles to hide. I could try it though. I have little experience with Shimano brakes (only had a Saint 2004 brake, the small two piston one), primarily pre-MT Magura brakes. Main thing there is to orient the bike such that the hose exits the caliper at the highest point and that you have a continuous upwards hose routing. For many (full suspension) bikes I can see that be the main issue for the rear brake in particular.
But yeah, my thoughts were that you'll always have some air ingress over time and in case of a mineral oil brake, the ideal situation actually is that the air that does enter eventually collects in the reservoir. Now Magura oil has a relatively low boiling point (only slightly above that of water) so they're designed to keep the liquid temperature below that of water anyway. But if you have another mineral oil brake (like Shimano) designed around a higher boiling point the water that eventually pools down in the caliper could be an even bigger issue. You could heat up the brake to the point that you get a vapor-lock and lose all brakeforce. Obviously it is good to flush the water out of any mineral oil brake every now and then, but on these it is even more important as they only go soft when they heat up.
One quick test you can do is put your bike upside down and brake multiple times. If there is some air the lever feel and lever stroke would change.
A perfect bleed mineral oil brake would last very long cos fluid is more durable than DOT,mineral oil do not mix with water.
I do not think air would enter so easy any brake system. Reservoirs are open,that´s why water can get inside. Piston seals could let some dust and fine particles enter the system,but not air.
When I bleed the caliper most of the bubbles come out by the syringe next to the caliper,not in the lever syringe.
Most of brake problems are bad bleed from the minute 1,when the brake was filled in the factory or installed new in your bike.
But can someone please explain to me what this 'feeling control system' adjusts? Does it change stroke? Bite point? Something else?
I got my whole front & rear set including a pair of rotors for €179, and it is almost new so upgrading isn't really my priority but I will keep this in mind.
I don’t think they are up updating the Cura / Cura 4 brakes to come supplied with these already attached, as some will not want to pay more for the extra adjustment or feel feature. Maybe both options will be available in the future
If anyone has more information, please add a comment, thanks
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