Bike Check: Innes Graham's Nukeproof Giga

Jun 14, 2022 at 10:12
by Seb Stott  


Rider: Innes Graham
Height/weight/age: 183 cm (6 foot) / 73 Kg (161 lb) / 26
Bike: Nukeproof Giga 297 (mullet), 180 mm f&r
Frame size: Medium (455 mm reach)
Shock settings: RockShox SuperDeluxe Coil, 400 lb/in, 30% sag, compression & rebound fully open
Fork settings: 2022 RockShox Zeb, 180 mm, 3 tokens, 49 psi, compression fully open (low and high-speed), rebound 11 clicks from closed
Bar width: 720 mm
Brakes: Code RSC, 200 mm f&R, lever angle about 45°
Tires: Maxxis Assegai, MaxxGrip, 2.5". Rear: DH casing, 25 psi, insert. Front: DoubleDown casing, 21 psi, no insert.

You could be forgiven for not including Innes Graham on your pre-season list of EWS podium contenders. Until recently, he'd never raced an enduro, never mind an EWS. Yet at the first round of the Enduro World Series in the Tweed Valley, he laid his cards on the table from the off, taking a win on the pro stage on Saturday. Then he backed it up with a solid performance on Sunday that was good enough for a third-place overall result.

Living just up the road from the race venue and having shown his talent on the World Cup Downhill scene in the past, perhaps that result shouldn't be such a surprise. But while most podium-level racers are full-time athletes with factory support, Innes works as a MTB coach at the Borders Academy of Sporting Excellence (BASE) and as as a photographer. I caught up with him just before he flew out to Petzen for round two of the EWS to get the scoop on the bike he rode so very fast.


Do you want to start by telling us a bit about your racing background?


So, I started racing junior World Cups in 2013 for MS Mondraker team and continued that up until 2016, which is when I retired, you could say, and then took three years off and then returned back to mountain biking, but from a coaching perspective. That was in 2019 I started doing that fully. So I've been coaching since 2019 up until now. And I've done a couple of enduros in the last couple of months as prep for the EWS.

So no racing in that interim?


I've done two races in the last eight years. The EWS was my third race. I did national champs downhill last year and then a Scottish Euro Series race at Nevis Range, which was the EWS qualifier that got me into the pro race.

What caused you to step back from racing then? What caused you to get back into it?


Um, so I had multiple injuries while racing downhill and the worst one was a broken femur that was in 2016. So I originally just planned to rehab and recover for that. But after six months off, I kind of lost the lost the love, lost the urge to be racing. So that was the end of that.

And then I raced national champs last year, just to help out a young racer called Stan Nisbet who lives here in Peebles as well. I went down to that to help him and give him a bit of advice and just lend a hand really, and really enjoyed that. And that gave me a little bit of a fire under my ass to do more. And then at the EWS last year was when I decided that it would be really cool to see what it takes to race an EWS. So since Christmas time last year I've been head down prepping for the EWS.

Did you say last time that you partly took up racing to get some respect from the BASE students you coach, or was that a joke?


Not so much respect, but I think a big part of me racing was to have a bit of credibility and just understand the enduro discipline, which is what probably 95 to 99% of the students are now. So that was a big motivator for me, to just understand enduro. Um, and also if I can do reasonably well in it, then they might listen to me more!

Nice. You had some solid results in downhill though...


I won national champs as a junior, same year that Laurie won it as a youth rider. So that was good. And then I've won a national round as an elite rider and then had a couple of podiums as well. So yeah, it was a good run for sure.


Let's talk about the bike. So you're on a size Medium, right?


On paper, I should definitely be on a large, but I have always ridden small bikes. I find it a little bit more fun, a bit more nimble and playful here in the Tweed Valley when you've got to duck your elbows around trees. For here it's amazing. It'll be interesting to see how it fares on more long, fatiguing courses.

And the Giga is a fairly big bike. I think the wheelbase is like 1,240 mm [post interview editor's note: I was thinking of the 29er Giga, the mullet version is nearer 1,230 mm long] or something from memory, which is like the XLs I was riding a few years ago.


For sure. The reach is 455 mm, I believe. I should probably mention it's a mixed wheel or a mullet. To make the medium work for me, I've had to put a bigger dropper on it. So it's a 212 mm BikeYoke dropper in there, just to give me that good climbing position, but I can still get it slammed.

A spare hanger is hidden under the saddle.

So could you not actually get the seat high enough with the stock seatpost? Or do you like the seat really out the way as well?


If I could get an even longer one, I would. More is more.

But you were saying earlier that you don't find the clearance on the rear wheel an issue when riding a 29er, so why the mullet wheels?


I've never had issues buzzing my bum on a tire. The reason I went mullet was just to have an understanding of how it rode for, again, a coaching perspective and feedback for potential clients or students who just want to know how they both react. So that's the reason that we chose to ride a mixed wheel bike this year.

And did you have a choice between the Mega and the Giga?


No, it wasn't my choice. The shop, Tweed Valley Bikes, put my name down for a Giga originally. I was gonna get the spec below and a large. But then I rode a demo XL before receiving that bike and it was way too big, it made me realize that even large would be too big for me. I had to go back to them and be like, 'Guys, sorry, I've ordered the wrong size bike'. And it kind of worked out in my favour cuz I've got the top-spec one now. Cause it was all that was available in medium.

And you're presumably happy with that choice, if it's not a stupid question, on the medium versus large - you never feel like you could go bigger?


I never feel under-gunned whatsoever. It's a 180 mm front and rear, and like I say, I only really ride in the Tweed Valley. So I'll get back to you on that after Val Di Fassa.

The Giga's main pivot can be set to two positions, the main effect is to change the progression.

And you're the lower, less progressive setting on the Giga's main pivot adjustment?


Yeah. I don't quote me on it, but I think it's a choice between 25 and 29% progression.

I've gone back and forth a couple of times and also played with spring rate. We're gonna do more fiddling with that tomorrow before I leave out to go out to Petzen for the next two EWS rounds. But I'm pretty set on the less progressiveness, the less progressive setting,

Are you feeling it bottom out much?


Maybe once a ride. But I just like the super supple sensitive feel... swallow things up a bit more.

But that's why I'm gonna try and test it just to have that confidence in your head.

And we measured your sag earlier; it looked about bang-on 30%. So nothing crazy there...


Just below, just under 30%, I think. Same for the front, I have it pretty balanced: soft and fast.

And what's your thinking behind that? Have you done a lot of testing in your downhill days with rebound settings or more recently?


Yeah, we did do a lot of testing in downhill. We worked with Marzocchi pretty intensely. So we did multiple days in San Remo and stuff doing back-to-back runs, but I generally go soft. So it minimizes fatigue.

Was the setup you had in downhill along the same lines (soft and fast)?


In downhill, I rode it pretty stiff. Now I just like it to be soggy.

Less fatigue, more grip. Yeah. I guess the rebound relates to your grip a lot more - it doesn't pack down so you've always got that tire contact in the ground. Yep. You've got to balance it though, because if it's too aggressively fast, then you'll just rattle your hands off the bars gripping even tighter. So I think it can be more fatiguing at a certain point. Rebound relates to rider speed a lot as well, I think. If you're going faster, you're hitting bumps harder and you need that fork to return to fill full travel before the next bump. You've got less time between the bumps too.


Compression settings?


Wide open.

And do you know what pressure you're running in the fork?


Three tokens, 49 PSI.

Three tokens is pretty progressive for 180 mm Zeb. Do you ever get to the bottom of it?


Rarely. But occasionally. It's quite progressive but quite soft on air pressure

It says I should be on 54 to 62 PSI and I'm 49. So yeah. Considerably lower than what they say. Soft but progressive. I think the fork comes standard with one token or no tokens. Low and high speed compression is all the way out.

What's your tire setup?


Maxxis Assegais. Downhill casing on the rear and then DoubleDown on the front. It's all I could get my hands on for the weekend. We're gonna run them.

Any inserts?


I ride an insert on the rear, but nothing in the front. Tire pressures were 21 and 25 psi. Pretty standard.

I've never ridden an insert before until a couple of weeks ago. So, so far so good. Love It.

Was that like a security thing rather than ride-feel?


More so a security thing just to be on the safe side.

Do you notice much of a difference in how the tire behaves?


I genuinely prefer it so much more. Normally I'd run like 29-30 psi in the rear. Otherwise, I just hit everything and it dings the rim.

If you drop like four PSI at the tire, that's so much. Very noticeable traction.

How are you getting on with the AXS shifting?


I hate that I love it! [laughs]

Did you find it intuitive when you got on it?


I've swapped around which button does what.. so the bottom one is a harder gear.

So the reason I ask is that for every test bike I get with AXS, I have to do that before I can ride it. I don't understand why it's that way around as standard. So I'm glad it's not just me.


Yeah, because to me that doesn't relate to a normal shifter.

Otherwise proper happy with it. It just looks better, doesn't it? From a racing perspective as well, it's a lot easier in case you have like a major mechanical, so you swap a mech without doing loads of internal cables.


Can you talk us through your cockpit?


I have 7.5 mm stack under my stem, 30 mm rise carbon Burgtec bars. At the EWS in Tweed Valley, I ran 720 mm width. So it was 736 mm with grips. I like to have my hands right off the end of the grip.

Just in case you needed a reminder of why narrow bars are popular in the Tweed Valley.

Is that what you always ride?


Yeah. Standard at home. So we got some fresh bars from Burgtec, but they're exactly the same. Just cut to 750 mm this time. Try something new... I definitely actually think I'll cut these down again tomorrow morning, to be honest. Just after just doing a couple of cuties down here just from the car park test.

And do you experiment with bar height a lot?


Yeah. Quite a lot. I'm settled with this. I'm really happy with it. I went between 5 and 10 mm, but it was too extreme both ways. So the two-and-a-half and the five are perfect.

Some people don't believe me when they say I notice the 2.5 mm difference, but I think I'm just a little bit more in tune with how my bike should feel now as I've grown older. And I pay more attention from a coaching perspective. Just being more in tune with how things affect another thing. I think it's just good to be able to notice and reflect and explain.


Any other changes for the next round?


I'm gonna go up a chainring size, so 32 to 34. I was spinning out in the field at the first round and I think a bigger one would be a little bit better. I'm gonna also throw an Ochain on just to test out, keep things a little bit quieter and see if it improves the ride.

It was quite noisy at the EWS, but my rear derailleur was completely clapped out and the chain needed replacing just from use. So we've replaced the chain and mech for the next two weeks just to try and minimize that.


And your pedals, they're the old Crank Brothers Mallet 3s?


Uh, I've just bought these new ones. So they're fresh. I've not even clicked in on them yet. I did have a set of Mallets that have been on almost every bike I've ever raced. So I think I've got them in 2012 or 2013, but they died at the EWS.

Oh wow, that is amazing innings.


Yeah. Far as pedals go. As I did the bearings, about three times on them in the last 10 years. So yeah. Time for them to go.

People complain about Crankbrothers pedals not lasting, but if you change the bearings you can keep 'em going. And lastly, how do you set your cleats - all the way back in the slot or further forward?


I use the rear of the two bolt hole screws, but slammed forward. So quite far forward. I find it easier to clip in and it's easy to always get the same position with new cleats, which is the most important thing for me. Both feel exactly the same every time. If it's in the middle or the ball on my foot, I can feel a bit clumsy.





95 Comments

  • 87 0
 Proper bike check. Enjoyed that.
  • 37 0
 Privateer bike checks are heaps better. Actually some reasoning on setup and parts rather than "i get given these"
  • 5 0
 @mrtoodles: That's because they can be honest about their choices rather than as you say the “I get paid to say this is perfect” response pros have to give
  • 44 11
 183 cm and riding medium bike with 455 reach... How is that even possible bike design department of any manufacturer asks?

Considering there are bikes pushing 500 reach in size large, this is just funny. Somewhat like almost entire canyon factory racing team racing the old obsolete bike.
  • 16 19
 Product designers in the bike industry are professionals at ignoring every single sign pointing to them being wrong lol.

It's also a lot of leftover fear of missing out on the "progressive geometry" trends. It's clearly over but these bikes were designed a few years ago when brands were worried that things would be even longer by the time the bike came into production.
  • 55 2
 Horses for courses - what works best somewhere like the Tweed Valley might not be ideal somewhere with higher speed, more open trails.

It seems like reach numbers have started to settle a bit (Canyon being the exception). Most companies seem to be going with 475 - 485mm on a size large, which I’d say is pretty reasonable. And there’s nothing wrong with sizing up or down - at the end of the day it’s about personal preference.
  • 4 1
 Large is 480mm reach, and the giga comes up fairly big I would say. 455 reach was the norm 5 years ago...
  • 30 1
 It's almost as if different people like different bikes. Very weird that, isn't it. Who would have thought that not everybody likes the same.
  • 11 1
 If you’re at a level where your just about getting down the trail without killing yourself than big long slack 29’ers with Bohr fat tyres are the way to go. They’re like riding on recruit difficulty. When its about getting down that trail as fast as humanly possible you need a bike that can react as fast as you can and is fast enough to get on all the good lines and fit through steep gnarly terrain and this guy absolutely rips in the BMX also so he’s not going to be unsettled when the bike gets twitchy so stability is not as massive priority.
  • 2 0
 @mikekazimer: and this if you’re riding big fast open trails give me that big 29’er. If I was forced to face fort William or something I’d be on the biggest bike I could probably find.
  • 2 1
 It's a bit cramped for pedalling, but just fine/great/awesome for riding/downhill. That's just how it is. If you know how to ride, at least.
  • 11 3
 Height alone ignores inseam, ape index, torso length, shoulder width and other factors.

I'm the same height as Innes and used to ride a 445 "large" Specialized Enduro. It was terrible. I was so cramped in the cockpit. I have short legs, a long torso and a +3.5" ape index. I now ride an XL bike with 515 reach and have much more control and space to move around the bike.
  • 10 0
 @haen: Agree - and the opposite is true too. Long legs and short torso = small bike. And judging by the seatpost situation here, that's exactly the case for Innes.
  • 3 0
 @haen: Indeed. 180cm and +10 ape index here, 455mm reach is just plainly awful for me.
  • 3 0
 @rich-2000: large is actually 475 and measured is actually 470...I know, I have one.. and I'm 173 barefoot.

I'm not interested in how fast I could turn in some weird switchbacks or other tight corners no..., what I am interested in is to not die when going at mach chicken on dh tracks, a thing which this L size with its roomy cockpit and long wb does it great.

For me, this set-up is weird AF but hey, it works for him so that's great.
  • 5 4
 @eugenux: overbiking to compensere lack of experience on extreme trails will eventually go wrong
  • 4 0
 @Uchwmdr: no worries, I'm not at the age where it seems like I'm always planning to kill myself...but, I am at the age where the extra layer of stability works and it is necessary, if/when I go out of my limited breath of abilities.

and, the thing is, Giga is a pretty agile bike. If I manage to makevthe front stick to a corner/any corner, the rest will follow pretty fast. I just need to manhandle it a little in the tight stuff but for everything else, it is pure gold.

I guess it is a thing of talent and racing skills but, for the love of GOD, I cannot ride my 38 with more than 24% sag and at least 8 clicks of LSC. open compression seems from the movies.
  • 2 0
 @Tasso75: 183 + 8 of Monkey index + wide shoulders

Now im on 495 of reach and around 620 of tt. Love it. Idk if I'm faster then on my old 5 cm shorter bike, but I'm
much more comfortable.

Between us, I dont think I would notice if my bike was 10 mm shorter in reach but 620 is a line I won't cross. Anything shorter feels awful on climbs.
635 would be even better and I keep wondering what would be like on even longer bike
  • 10 1
 I actually think there's a strong case for experienced riders being able to get away with a shorter bike.

I rode Gee Atherton's enduro bike once (about a 480 mm reach and 1,280 mm wheelbase roughly) and it was rideable, but with his suspension setup was too firm and harsh; with softer suspension, it felt a little unstable for my liking. Not terrible, but noticeably more prone to pitching than bikes with 1,300 mm+ wheelbase. Of course, you can ride anything (I used to ride a Lapierre Spicy with 420 mm reach and 1,200 mm WB and managed okay), but if you're not conditioned enough to cope with super firm suspension or precise enough with your bodyweight to handle a shorter WB without pitching and dive, then maybe a bit more stability is a good thing for a less precise and confident rider.
  • 10 1
 @seb-stott: This is a refreshingly reasonable take on bike sizing, compared to the normal "Jack Moir rides a medium so modern geometry is bollocks" comments.
Would make an interesting opinion piece.
  • 3 4
 @rich-2000: I’m 6ft 3 / 190cm and one of my bikes has a 455mm reach and it feels awesome. Super lively and loads of fun to ride. Feels sketchy for the first few runs and then you get used to it.
  • 1 0
 @thenotoriousmic: 190, 470 reach works perfectly. Anything longer is a goddamn canoe
  • 1 0
 @Uchwmdr: agreed. My other bike had a 185mm reach which was great for banging down the jumps lines at revs or somewhere but a tad bit long for the kind of stuff I do the majority of the time so I stuck a 180mm fork on it to lift the bb a touch, tip the head angle back a degree and bring the reach in to about 575mm which I would say would be perfect for me.
  • 5 1
 @seb-stott: And then there's me, who's been upsizing bikes for years just because I like the feeling of a long reach. I'm 185cm and I'm on a size XL Canyon Torque with 510mm reach and ~1300mm wheelbase.

Also, I get what you're saying about pros being able to get away with shorter wheelbases because they are more skilled. But I'd argue that the opposite is also true-ish. What I'm trying to say is, that in my opinion, conversely, a longer reach, or rather the confidence boost that comes from increased stability, can make people outrigh better riders. That exact thing happened to me. Had a Norco Optic in XL and I swear that bike enabled me to ride faster and harder and more difficult features than I ever thought I could.
  • 1 0
 @rich-2000: But that does not account for seatpost angle. The 480mm is shorter then the 455mm, if you ride anytime seated.
  • 1 0
 @Tasso75: What size bike are you riding?
  • 1 0
 @seb-stott: exactly! Most people are not as skilled, strong and confident as the pros and a bit of extra stability is often a good compromise for a slight loss of agility.
  • 3 0
 @haen: 2020 Dartmoor Hornet size XL, 480mm reach, 625mm stack. And I find it still a bit short.
  • 3 0
 To add to this nice sizing convo - if the bike is too big, then this doesn't work as well:
youtube.com/shorts/jWuufiY7ubI?feature=share
  • 35 1
 720mm bars... the world ends today for Pinkbikers
  • 6 0
 First thing I noticed. Then I saw how fast he was going in those tress, and I was ok, that makes more sense.
  • 24 0
 Innes really shows that some people are just faster no matter the industry standard. "you're too tall for a medium""longer dropper""old pedals""720 bars"...dude took time off racing to ride his bmx because it was more fun, some people (specially on pb) forget about the fun part
  • 16 0
 great interview. love the tech detail. no damping in the fork, narrow bars lol. against the grain
  • 5 0
 Glad you liked it! Going lighter on damping isn't necessarily against the grain, especially in enduro.

www.pinkbike.com/news/laurie-greenlands-coach-olly-morris-on-suspension-setup-and-riding-technique.html
  • 11 0
 Someone get this man a 240mm oneup dropper!
  • 9 0
 All the suspension fasts! Makes me wonder if the adjustment window is actually sensible on these forks and shock...
  • 1 0
 Fully open on the SuperDeluxe coil on the Giga is a very lively setup. Not everyone would be able to deal with that much returned energy. Some suspension products could definitely do with a wider damping window, but the adjustment range on the SuperDeluxe is relatively wide.
  • 3 0
 3 tokens on the zeb and 49 psi, interesting. Thought 3 tokens would be so hard to bottom considering semenuk used similar settings at rampage but had more compression (high & low)
  • 3 2
 This guy forks.
  • 1 1
 What I really don't get is mtb geo..went from a remedy that had a 444reach felt small and cramped ..so I went for a ml slash which has a 470 mm reach give or take a mm..feels ok but still feels cramped when seated climbing..I'm only 5'9 whith shoes on now I'm lookn at large bikes in the 480 to 490 reach they feel great standing blasting down hill but are pretty stretched when climbing..and to make things even wierder when I ride bikes with longer ett say like the ibis ripmo in large with a 475 reach it feels almost right but u go and ride a bike with longer reach and shorter ett it feels shorter or cramped ..so a confusing conndrum I've yet to sit on a bike that feels just right..
  • 25 0
 Have you tried model boats?
  • 8 0
 Reach is noticeable when standing - ETT is noticeable when sitting. What you are saying makes perfect sense.
  • 2 0
 Reach really only describes length as it pertains to the standing position (I know, I'm simplifying). As reach numbers seem to get longer, seat tube angles have gotten steeper. This equates to a longer reach but a shorter effective top tube angle. If you're looking for more length in the seated position, it would make more sense to focus on ETT, not reach.
  • 3 0
 That Stage 3 POV was proper terrifying. Those trees- so fast, so tight. Unreal speeds
  • 4 0
 Brakes?
  • 17 0
 I don't think he uses them Wink
  • 2 0
 Code RSCs by the looks
  • 2 0
 Yeah, just stock Codes. 200 mm f&R. Lever angle is about 45 degrees.
  • 1 0
 How can I change the axs shifting ? I mess up the gear change all the time because of this. Other side would make way more sense !
  • 11 0
 It's pretty simple - just download the AXS app, go to 'configure controls' and it will let you pick which way shifts up and which way shifts down.
  • 1 0
 You can change it through the AXS app on your phone.
  • 1 0
 you can do it in the sram axs app on your phone
  • 6 0
 You can simply do it from the app on your phone in case you are not sure yet
  • 2 1
 Turn it off and then back on.
  • 4 1
 Fire up your PC and run a search for 'System32.' Delete this file and your shifting should be fine.
  • 3 0
 Obviously I'm not breathing hard enough when I'm descending.
  • 2 0
 That’s some pretty soft suspension… maybe stiffer does not equal faster
  • 1 0
 49 PSI on the fork seems super low. I own a 170mm Lyrik, weight 84kg or so, but run around 90-95 PS,I rendering just over 20% sag. Can anyone explain the discrepancy?
  • 3 0
 Zebs are much lower pressure than Lyriks, probably the bigger air volume.
  • 1 0
 Zebs air volume is massive and closer to the air volume of a Boxxer than a Lyrik, the debonair airshaft in the Zeb is also completely different than the Lyrik.

It depends on travel too, if it’s a 180 zeb your gonna run it pretty low pressure.

You’re running a lot of pressure in a Lyrik though, I’m about 85-90kg depending on what gear I take and run like 2 tokens and ~70psi, seems to be a happy medium of the fork being plush but still have support in the middle.
  • 1 0
 Can anyone explain the fad behind the knuckle protectors? I don't think I've see DHers run them... They seem quite popular in Enduro or is it just and impression I'm getting?
  • 3 0
 Punch a tree in dh ur runs probs over with how tight times are at the sharp end where as in enduro it’s a long day with sore knuckles
  • 1 0
 @Keddie: I suppose that makes sense.
  • 2 0
 Thanks for the detailed bike check. It is good to know what the EWS pros run.
  • 3 0
 What Hand guards?
  • 3 0
 Look like Nukeproof. Search Chain Reaction site. Same visible stainless bolt and lines.
  • 3 0
 They're the AVS handguards. Nukeproof do a Sam Hill branded version (the stickers come off easily and then you just have black ones like Innes), but there are generic AVS ones out there for cheaper.
  • 2 0
 what's up with tall scottish mtb coaches these days...
  • 2 0
 Wow, this was a really, really solid bike check article.
  • 6 9
 Re: axs.... "From a racing perspective as well, it's a lot easier in case you have like a major mechanical, so you swap a mech without doing loads of internal cables."

If only there were some other option besides internal routing. Not to mention that it isn't even necessary to replace a cable when you're swapping out a broken derailleur.
  • 6 1
 Kinda is. Especially since SRAM and Shimano cables run through the derailleur in a way that if your cable is frayed, you're screwed. AXS is easier in so many ways. And ultra-durable.
  • 2 9
flag thegoodflow (Jun 14, 2022 at 18:08) (Below Threshold)
 @cgreaseman: sure, let's just pretend that someone would start an ews race with a frayed der cable. You still don't need to replace the housing to swap the inner. And again, even if you did want to swap the housing... if it isn't routed internally to begin with, there's no issue.
  • 3 2
 @thegoodflow: dawg. Read before you rude. Your original comment says cable. Nobody said anything about housing, you still need to replace the cable on a mech system when you swap derailleurs.
  • 2 17
flag thegoodflow (Jun 14, 2022 at 20:33) (Below Threshold)
 @cgreaseman: dawg, rude before you read. Nobody that doesn't ride some ragged out pos that they never maintain has an issue with frayed cables, much less someone racing ews. I'm done trying to reason with you a*sholes, f*ck internal routing, f*ck axs, and f*ck you too.
  • 3 0
 My SLX derailleur eats cables, so I have to replace them every now and then, most of the time just somewhere shredding in a bike park - replacing cables can be so annoying on the trail! GX shifter needs to be opened, the cable fiddled in, the barrels adjusted etc. It is an easy task, when done with a lot of tools and time in a shop. But done with a multitool on a trail it is a PITA! So yes, when racing I would go AXS.
  • 2 1
 @cxfahrer: It’s called looking after your bike then you dont have to take it apart on the trail unless you are very unlucky and snap the cable
  • 1 0
 I have a giga 275 the bike goes like a bat out of hell.
  • 1 0
 Innes, why don't you get the Oneup 240 dropper?
  • 1 0
 I guess BikeYoke has a tiny bit less side play considering I guess it's higher priced.

Otherwise, I guess it's just the dropper they carry at the local shop

I run a OneUp 210 with about 15 mm margin on my own bike. I'd have to find a bike with more seat post insertion to have the 240 working for me @5'10/178, 32,4"/82 inseam.
  • 1 0
 So, I guess it's the Charger 2.1 damper in the fork there, or am I wrong?
  • 1 0
 I mean, I just want to know how I relate with the Charger 3 I'm lucky to get next week. Or do the settings not relate at all between the two dampers and what more differs? ‍♂️
  • 3 2
 720 is really narrow
  • 56 0
 3rd place is really fast
  • 4 0
 @no-good-ideas: Banned! For making me laugh while reading the comments. Comments should make me feel grumpy and opinionated.
  • 2 0
 Dude is on another level. I ride 725s on my proper XC bike, and although it's great for XCM and XC races, I've done some big fire road to proper DH days on the bike and feel noticeably squirrely. Still, if I'm trying to go fast for 4-5min I really don't notice a difference between 725's and 760's. If I'm just doing big pedal days or fun laps I would prefer the wider bars. All personal anecdotes. Disregard.
  • 2 0
 I reckon he's sitting on a pile of those carbon Easton Monkeybar DH 720mm bars we all used to ride and he's going to whack them all on eBay after this goes viral. The ones with the orangey colour in the centre.
  • 1 0
 Looks like a nomad
  • 2 1
 Bloody Mullets!
Below threshold threads are hidden





You must login to Pinkbike.
Don't have an account? Sign up

Join Pinkbike  Login
Copyright © 2000 - 2022. Pinkbike.com. All rights reserved.
dv65 0.015072
Mobile Version of Website