I spent a lot of time riding the G1 as fast as I could through tight and fast turns to figure out the difference in handling between the full 29" and mullet setup. With either rear wheel, the G1 was remarkably agile in the turns if ridden aggressively. That wheel flop due to the slack head angle means the steering "wants" to tip into the turns, while the low bottom bracket helps it to lean in and out of the corners more quickly. After getting used to the bike I was able to really push on, hitting familiar alternating berms harder than I had before. When pushing into these short, sharp turns there was plenty of support to push against, but with the fast rebound tune the bike would almost jump from one turn to the next. It's not uncontrolled, but there's definitely a springy feel when pushing off short berms.
The long front-center means you can't be shy about getting your weight over the front, otherwise the front wheel is too lightly loaded and won't grip well. This makes the G1 hard to handle if you ride it timidly or hang off the back. But bend your elbows and get your weight forwards and it will reward you with lots of grip and stability, particularly in rough, rutted or steep turns. In an ideal world, you'd want a 50:50 weight distribution between the wheels, and the long front-center means you have to put more weight on your hands to achieve this. But with your weight halfway between the axles, there's more room in front of you with a longer bike, which means the bike pitches and "trips up" less when braking or hitting bumps, and the slack head angle and high trail figure mean the front never tries to tuck or jackknife. For me this makes it easier to "trust in the front," which means I stay tall and centered on the bike when things get steep and gnarly, resulting in better front-end grip than a shorter bike, where I'm more likely to hang off the back.
On the other hand, when I was having an off day, riding tight or timid, the XL G1 can be a handful. This is why some riders at my height might want to size down to a Large, and if I was considering buying a G1, I'd arrange to try both sizes on the same day.
While cornering takes some getting used to, it's when trucking over rough terrain where the G1 is in its element. The rougher, the more hectic, the better. Small bump sensitivity is superb, so the bike takes the sting out of all the small chatter and sticks the wheels to the floor. And when the rear wheel is unweighted, for example when braking or on the backside of bumps, the extra room to extend on rebound allows it to stay in contact with the ground better, which helps to maintain control.
While I've never back-to-back tested spherical bearings against normal bushings, when hammering through a pinball rock section I've ridden countless times, the bike as a whole works so well I could be persuaded they were doing their job. The extra weight of the frame no doubt helps a little in these situations too, as anyone who's ridden an e-bike will know.
The setup Chris suggested with the slightly softer 450lb/in spring and firmer HSC is all about traction and support, but less about comfort. Inevitably, when hitting square-edge hits it sometimes transmits a bit more feedback than you might get from typical digressive compression tunes with less high-speed compression. This seems like a small price to pay though. Despite the firmer high-speed damping and bottom-out circuit, I still I found the bottom of the travel a few times, but not harshly.
The MORC 36 fork wasn't quite as impressive. When setup with enough negative pressure to make it nice and soft off the top, it's only serving up around 150mm of travel. I did try using less pressure in the negative to get it to sit a bit higher, but this ruined the linear feel which is at odds with the rear end. After increasing pressures in both chambers and speeding up the rebound on Chris' recommendation, the fork provided good support and traction, but with the RC2 damper and firm mid-end travel feel it isn't exactly comfortable or forgiving for long descents, particularly when compared to the 170-180mm travel forks I'm used to. But, as with the bike as a whole, if you ride it hard it makes more sense. The fast rebound helps it deal with high frequency bumps without bogging down at all.
The low sagged BB height and long wheelbase make it pretty easy to sump out the chainring on steep rock steps, so a little more care is required on awkward terrain. Clipping pedals is easily done too, so the G1 prefers carving corners and carrying speed over squaring them off and snatching pedal strokes in between.
And while the attention to detail as far as suspension performance is second to none, it's not as refined in some other ways. Despite the coil negative spring, the lack of an elastomer top-out bumper means that, especially if you ride clipped-in, it tops-out with a clunk when hopping over big obstacles like tree stumps. And when rattling over rough terrain there is more chain noise than most modern bikes, even with the derailleur's clutch on.