Six Ways To Make Mountain Biking Less Expensive

Mountain biking isn't a cheap sport. In fact, the amount you can spend on a bike is almost comical: a Specialized Kenevo SL costs $15,000 USD. or a Yeti SB160 frame costs $5,000. And the bike is just the start. There's clothing, protection, tools, spares, repairs and more. It's almost enough to make you switch to a cheaper hobby like motor racing or high-stakes gambling.

But there are ways to save a whole load of cash by being smart. Here are a few suggestions.

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Don't worry about weight

The main difference between a mid-range and a top-of-the-line bike is its weight. Sure, there'll be a few extra knobs to twiddle and usually nicer paint, but realistically, most of the extra money you're spending is going into carbon fiber and more precisely machined components which save a little weight. Typically, a bike with an aluminum frame and workhorse components will be around a kilogram (2.2 lb) or so heavier than the top build with a carbon frame and flagship parts.

That may sound like a lot, but a bit of math tells us this makes a surprisingly small difference when climbing, and at worst, doesn't matter when descending. For climbing performance, it's important to look for a bike with a steep seat angle, an efficient suspension design, and reasonably fast-rolling tires. These traits are more important than saving a few pounds and don't necessarily add to the price.

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You don't need a "quiver" of bikes


We'd all love to have a fleet of bikes for every situation. But unless you're regularly competing in XC, slopestyle, and downhill, you really only need one bike. Modern trail and enduro bikes are so capable uphill and downhill that one bike really can do pretty much anything.

In a recent test, I found that a 170/180 mm travel "superenduro" bike wasn't any slower uphill than a shorter travel trail bike - so long as both bikes were on the same tires. At the same time, the shorter travel bike wasn't exactly struggling to keep up on the descents. The point is, so long as the tires are appropriate, most modern bikes in the 130 to 170 mm travel range will tackle most types of riding with aplomb. One bike with a spare set of tires (or a second wheelset) to suit conditions should have you covered for most types of rides without leaving you at a disadvantage.

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Learn to work on your own bike

When you start out, it's tempting to take your bike to the shop for every issue. But learning to fix things yourself will save you money in the long run and give you a better chance of making repairs when you're out in the middle of nowhere. Every time you attempt a job yourself you'll learn something new, and one day, you might even find yourself thoroughly enjoying taking your fork apart, cleaning out all the gunk and putting it back together.

These days, it's easier than ever to find instructions on how to carry out even niche jobs by yourself. Instead of rifling through old issues of MBUK to find that guide they once published on how to service a KS Lev seatpost, you can just search for it online. Park Tool's Youtube channel has video guides for most jobs and our own Tech Tuesday series has some in-depth tutorials too.

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Keep on top of preventative maintainence

I'm sure you've heard this before, but a stitch in time really can save nine. Keeping your drivetrain reasonably clean and well-lubricated between rides will help it last much longer, and transfer more of your precious watts to the rear wheel too. You don't need to meticulously degrease it; just run it through an old rag to wipe off the crud before re-lubing will make a world of difference.

Check your spoke tension regularly and adjust before any spokes work loose, and check that all the bolts are tight every few rides. Keep on top of your suspension service intervals too. Forks and shocks tend to need servicing at least once a year, and more often if you ride a lot. Once you learn how it's not so hard, and it will dramatically improve performance as well as prevent expensive damage.

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Replace your chain before it "stretches" too much

Here's a classic tip. As your chain wears out it will get slightly longer, not because the material is actually stretching, but because of changes to the bushings and pins. If it stretches too much, it will start wearing out the cassette and chainring teeth at an ever-increasing rate. So to avoid this, it's usually recommended to replace the chain before it stretches by 0.5%

A pair of chain links should measure 1" exactly. So either use a chain wear checker tool, or just measure twelve inches from any chain pin, and if the pin closest to the 12-inch mark is more than 1/16" beyond that mark, it's time for a new chain. Replacing the chain before this milestone should ensure your cassette and chainring last for two or three chains. Leave it too late, and the new chain will skip on the cassette and chainring that have worn with the old chain, so you'll have to replace them too.

Bonus tip: get yourself a steel chainring. They cost less, last longer and carry a negligible weight penalty (see point 1).

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Consider buying second hand

While buying used can be a minefield, the potential savings are huge if you do your research. The rate of genuine innovation and improvement in bike design is slowing, so a bike from a few years ago probably isn't going to perform much worse than the latest model - provided it's in good condition.

Before parting with your cash, it's worth having a good look at a bike in person if at all possible. Worn-out drivetrains and brake pads are to be expected but a damaged frame or suspension component is a huge red flag - if you have to replace one of those you may as well have bought new.

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