We put a lot of stock in the tiny unseen pieces of metal that make our bikes tick. Especially the ones that
literally make our bikes tick; the freehub. The most popular approach to the freehub relies on pawls and springs. It's a concept that brands like Industry Nine and Project 321 have elevated to a high art. But the system inside
most pawl-based hubs isn't nearly as precise, and they don't really
have to be. If you just need the wheel to turn when you pedal, a basic set of pawls will do the trick. That's why, for years, it's been the go-to setup when price is a factor.
DT Swiss, possibly the most common name in high-end hubs, was founded in opposition to pawl designs. Back when they were called “Hügi,” all their hubs used what they called the Star Ratchet freehub. Two opposing toothy rings rotate against each other until you pedal, when they lock together, engaging all of those teeth at once. Instead of putting the drive load on just three points of contact (or sometimes two or one if you start to pedal at
precisely the wrong moment), the Star Ratchet has 18 points of contact (or 36 or 54, depending on your preference). The individual Star Ratchet rings are
relatively cheap and easy to replace.
But the hubs themselves are definitely
not cheap when compared to the hubs getting specced on most mid-priced bikes. So, long ago DT Swiss introduced pawl-based hubs to secure some sweet OEM business, leaving many riders with DT hubs that aren't
truly DT hubs. That's why, about a year and a half ago, DT introduced a way to replace the pawl mechanism in most entry-level DT hubs with a true Star Ratchet. The Ratchet LN Upgrade Kit comes complete with a freehub body, two 18-tooth ratchet rings, and the parts to make them work in your hub. It seemed like a pretty big deal, and deserved a little more attention and explanation. Because it turns out, it’s still not all that simple.
First, DT Swiss has made both three- and two-pawl hubs in the past, and the conversion kit will only work on three-pawl hubs. Both configurations have been used on the popular entry-level model, the 370, but not all 370s will be labeled, and none will tell you how many pawls they use until you get inside. Simple way to figure it out is, if it has a modern thru-axle, your hub is convertible. The only hubs that are two-pawl have a steel quick-release axle with old-school threaded cones and 17mm lock nuts. Basically, if there are no hex-nuts on the edges of your DT Swiss hub’s axle, you can convert to a Star Ratchet.
Depending on the configuration, prices range from about $100 to $115 for 18-tooth, alloy-body kits, and about $50 more for 36-tooth. 54-tooth ratchet rings need to be purchased separately. There are also steel-body kits, but for most riders, aluminum is fine. As for exactly which kit you’ll need, that’s based primarily on which cassette you’re using: a SRAM XD, Shimano Micro Spline, or original Shimano HG. There are also differences between DT's mountain, road, and "hybrid" (e-bike) hubs. Wherever you're purchasing the kit should be able to pick out the right one if you have your current hub.
The kit includes the entire ratcheting mechanism, including the ratchet rings, the springs that keep them engaged, and the threaded insert that the inboard ratchet ring slides on on when engaging and disengaging. The outboard ring slides inside an insert that is part of the freehub body itself, which comes with the kit. Removing the insert from the hub is where this can get a little tricky. It doesn’t come out easily. Every one of your pedal strokes since you first got your 3-pawl DT Swiss hub have been working to keep your insert tight. You may be fighting years of history as you loosen it. And of course, it takes a special tool to remove your three-pawl ratchet ring, and a different one to install the Star Ratchet ring.
But the problem is, these things are $80
each. So, the best approach is to simply let your local shop handle that part. DT Swiss covers how to do this, as well as changing the threaded inserts and installing the Star Ratchet system and new freehub body, in the video below.
If you bring your shop the wheel ready for the old insert to be threaded out and the new one threaded in, you’re likely to get in and out with minimal time and money invested. But that relies on your shop having these tools. If you live somewhere with any type of a mountain bike scene, most shops will be able to help you out, but if you’re not that lucky, you may be buying your own. Thankfully, you don’t need a tool that’s shop-quality.
At the time of writing this, there were a few decent-looking generic Star Ratchet ring installation tools for about a third the price of the DT version on Amazon,
including this one. And an apparently compatible 3-pawl removal tool
like this one. But according to the reviews, the generic 3-pawl ring removal tools are a little suspect. Some may require removing bearings, some may not fit at all. And these are far more crucial than the installation, which will eventually self-tighten. Either find a shop with the tools, take a risk on Amazon, or buy the real deal to remove the 3-pawl ring.
So, does this even add up if you’re buying your own tools? After all, you may be paying a little over $200 including the conversion kit. You could likely find a DT Swiss 350 hub complete for not much more than that. But that would involve rebuilding the wheel. And, while we’re on that slippery slope, you might as well just replace the wheel at that rate. But if you can do this without a significant tool investment, it is absolutely worth it. The reliability and the customization options alone will justify the price. The conversion kit takes what is arguably not a “real” DT wheel, and transforms it into a true high-end hoop. It is no longer a price-point, OEM-only part. It is now high-end. Fancy. Boutique even. All thanks to some unseen metal parts that make your bike tick, probably louder than it did before.
111 Comments
This is dependant on where abouts in the freehub cycle you are when the suspension compresses. If you're at the point where the pawls are just about to engage anyway then having a low engagement hub makes no difference. It will only make a difference if the pawls are, for example, the full 10 degrees away from engaging at the point that the suspension compresses.
I feel like this point is made every time someone mentions the 'benefit' of a low engagement hub.
Same experience here. My OE 370 is 4 years old and has been trouble free. Well above average for inexpensive hubs. Hell, I know plenty of people who have had more trouble out of 'premium' hubs.
So when your 370 dies, sure, go for it, but buying this just in case makes little sense to me. Ratchet most probably is better, but 370 seems just good enough.
That's disappointing. It seems the new 240 is having some issues with the EXP ratchet. My old 240 is now 16 years old and has outlived 6 broken frames. Not sure whose hub to choose for the next bike.
I would say a lot of engagement points is mainly advantageous for if you're riding in a super low/light gear, so you've got a lot of crank rotation per wheel rotation (hence between engagement points). Especially on technical climbs, you like your gears to pick up quickly and don't waste any amount of precious forwards pedaling on a free stroke. But for faster riding, heavier gears and obviously when coasting and pumping, I think 18POE (which I think my DT 350 hub has) is sufficient. When at speed, I can't notice the distances between engagement points. My other hub (Syntace MX) has a star ratchet too (just oil lubed instead of grease lubed like DT) and the same goes there. I don't think it has more than 24POE, could be even less.
The ratchet failure also took out the hub axle (huge gouge, it had to be replaced).
Glad to hear that. My 2006 era 240 is the most reliable hub I've ever had.
It doesnt happen with the rathet system which is why the 370 comes with one now.
Shops had the opportunity to shine to round off the edges with loaner wheels, direct swap etc.
These defects implied to replace the hub which dealers were/are able to do easily.
DT 370 was OEM only, so that's why they say it wasn't a "real" DT part that you could buy aftermarket. The real DT selling point is the star ratchet system which is bomb proof and super simple, apart from the lockring that is pretty much impossible to remove after a season (you don't really need to in most cases though).
There is a reason why DT took over the world.
The OEM market puts a huge stress on cost, as small saving will have a big effect over a big quantity, so a cheaper pawl design won the game there. But that changed now for the better/more expensive design.
I bought my Syntace MX hubs as part of their complete wheelset (which was a nice deal, as I needed the no longer popular 26" version). It came with their aluminium HG splined freehub body. At some point I got this gauging which made it hard to replace the sprockets so eventually I replaced the body with their lighter body which has fewer and steel-armoured splines. It was good while it lasted. Then a few weeks ago the body sheared off. Apparently it can't transfer a lot of torque from the smaller sprockets towards the ratchet. I didn't necessarily ask for warranty. I just explained Syntace what happened and if they have a stronger option that won't fail like this under my use. They didn't even respond, they just immediately send me the regular splined freehub body in the mail and it's been working nicely since.
So yeah, anything can break. Ratchet type ones too. But it is nice to see they are willing to help their customers out.
I do understand that the OEM market is a tricky one as whereas a price difference as little as 10 euros for a 200 euro part doesn't matter much in the aftermarket, but that ratio is completely different in the OEM market. I think it is up to the bike brands to decide whether they really want to go down this route though. Sure customers will be pulled in by the DT brand name, but if you've got to meet a price point you may be bettter off just going with Shimano instead like for instance Kona does. Cheap to buy, cheap to service (if you're willing to hold a spanner) and more than good enough (if you actually perform the service).
My hope is the former Bike/Beta and CycylingTips peeps would launch there own independent outlet.
Local guy selling a take off microspline ratchet driver for a 350 for cheap spurred the conversion. The cheap 60t knock off has held up to a full season of abuse and is still going strong. I do grease it every few months. Like it quieter that way.
Those rings are in there something fierce, I'm an auto mechanic by trade and damn near thought I was going to bust the rim or spokes twisting that thing to break loose in my bench vise. Not a fun job.
I bought the ZTTTO internals off Ali express too. So far so good for 3000 miles.
But I upgraded it with the Chinese 60T ratchet. Been going strong for about 5 months now, but time will tell for extended longevity. I figured that because I'm a lightweight, I might get away with it for longer than some.
Ride the stock rear wheel until it’s an octagon, then put the new carbon one on until it’s time to sell the bike.
A friend at a local bike shop recommended this to me. Back then you couldn't order it as a 'kit" but we ordered the 54T ratchets, spacer, fresh springs, drive ring, and freehub driver for less than $120 back then.
As for the half of the ratchet I got from the seller, it's definitely pretty high quality and it meshes up with my authentic DT Swiss 36T ratchet I got from a German bike store. Would I go for ZTTO star ratchets in the future? Definitely, only if the sellers would give me confidence to shop on AliExpress again. I do put the 18T star ratchet into my toolkit as a backup but it's gonna take a few years of riding before my current one wears out.
Personally I've had good results with "ZTTO Official Store", "100bike store", "race cyclist store", "mixed cycling official store", "Toseek official store, "DIIKE DIIKE Official store" and many others for bike goods. I've bought a couple of cheap and poorly made items from other stores, but haven't yet come across any dishonest sellers in the 35 orders I have made so far.
I'm with you on PayPal, the one time I tried to dispute something I got passed back to the seller to allow them to address the dispute, then strung along until PayPal terms allowed them to deny the claim.
I would imagine ratchets don't cost much more to make than pawls. It's was more about creating some difference between lower tier OEM and upper tier products to keep the illusion of value and exclusivity in the 350s and up. In reality the probably cost about the same to make.
But they quickly dropped that idea once hubs started to explode!
I have one friend blow up 3 hubs before DT upgraded him to a ratchet.
Difference now, probably not much. Do they spec the 370 with a lower tooth count?
If this works, you don’t need to buy any tools. Just heat it up with a torch first. Also, you should go ahead and replace that bearing behind the ring. And why wouldn’t you use anti seize on the new drive ring?
Anyway, it’s still an expensive upgrade on an old wheel. And the whole ratchet system is inherently not good for high engagement. It is most reliable with low engagement. You can’t even get over 54 POE from DT Swiss because they know it is optimal at 36t which is dated by todays standards. It’s still a reliable just limited.
Pawl and spring setups have the advantage of increasing engagement by adding another pair of pawls to rotate around the drive ring. But pawls and drive ring need not only be high precision machined, but also made of quality hardened steel to be durable/reliable.
They are great and reliable hubs. But if it's quick engagement and power transmission you are after, DT doesn't hold up and having to spend more money for what is still a really low engagement count today just is not compelling to most.
You’re fried. 54 points of engagement is plenty.
It's the demand for high engagement that's up for debate, or so I thought. Axle breakage is a whole other kettle of fish.
I mean I’ve had onyx and i9 and DT hubs in several iterations and I just don’t think it makes a functional difference. You can feel a difference in slop, but that doesn’t mean there’s a performance difference. Especially between. 54t ratchet and hydras it’s just a feel thing at that point. You will not get appreciable watts from that small of a difference.
Doesn't that say something about the strength of modern wheels?
www.aliexpress.com/item/32886613303.html
10$
oops...
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