Mmmm...taking the damper apart, I'd love to know how to do that without risking a massive f*ck up.
I recently serviced my fork and tuned oil viscosity, I did know you could add spacers or oil to reduce air chamber voulume to affect the air spring behaviour. I did'nt know you could tune the damper itself however, what did you do exactly, just curious?
Yes exactly, the fork was packing up or kicking me in jumps (depends how i set the rebound), to remedy this i did a linear air spring mod first (shortening the spring rod to make the air spring bigger) but it wasn't enough for my taste, it was still miles away from the rear shock. Now i've broaden the holes 10-15% to stop the packing up, and i'm running two clicks slower rebound.
It doesn't pack up at all, in fact it rides so high in the travel, even after lowering the pressure from 60 to 55PSI. Looks like i'm going to have to add a bit of oil to the air chamber and lower it anothe few PSI
Happy with the result, looks like i didn't mess it up after all
Wow, amazing, I do only have a limited understanding of how a suspension fork works but I'm really impressed and interested in how you've done that.
I mean you say you shortened the spring rod; how do you do that, you cannot cut it and weld it back, can you? I must be wrong but if you actually shorten it, then my bet would be that you reduce the travel as well right?
Correct me if I'm wrong but if you increase oil volume in the air chamber, then you kinda counteract the effect of lowering the air pressure (because the air chamber gets smaller and air thus pressure increases)?
Finally,this may be a dull question but the way I see how rebound setting works is by partial opening/closing of the holes through which the oil flows when the forks is ramping up. So isn't there a risk of the holes getting too big to be closed effectively when you increase their diameter?
The piston on top of the air spring rod is plastic and held with a pin, you push it out, cut 9mm off, drill a new hole for the pin and that's it, The negative and top out spring are few centimeters further down and are held by another pin so it doesn't affect the travel: www.pinkbike.com/photo/10061930
By puting oil in the air chamber i can fine tune how linear/progressive the spring is, less volume, less air presure to achieve sag and vice versa.
There is low speed and high speed rebound on the fork. The speed refers to the speed of oil traveling through the system. To recover from smaller bumps oil flows through the middle of the rod and exits through the orifices just at the sides of the rod near the little spring. The needle is opening or closing those to slow down the oil. When the fork is recovering from a bigger impact the oil presure is higher and therefore it rushes through those 3 holes i made bigger on the rebound piston and it opens up the shim which sits on top of those. When the oil speed is slow that shim keeps the holes closed.
I recently serviced my fork and tuned oil viscosity, I did know you could add spacers or oil to reduce air chamber voulume to affect the air spring behaviour. I did'nt know you could tune the damper itself however, what did you do exactly, just curious?
Did you broaden the holes for increased oil flow?