Okay so i got my pro2 laces up the otherday its a 10mm with a qr clamp. i am using it in horazontal drop outs. Now i am doing this because the hub fits the qr is only there to apply pressure.(im getting bolt on skewers that allow me to torque it the same was as a bolt on) but my issue is i need a chain tub that pulls on the front of the axel in the drop out not the part after the drop out. any sugestions?
you dont NEED chain tugs, just pull the wheel back with your hand, easier and cheaper. Why would you have to 2 months?thats rediculous! Just go to your lbs get them to order one in and hey presto your sorted in a week.
you dont NEED chain tugs, just pull the wheel back with your hand, easier and cheaper. Why would you have to 2 months?thats rediculous! Just go to your lbs get them to order one in and hey presto your sorted in a week.
2 months because thats how long it takes hope stuff to get here. with my bike and the gearing that i run i need my chain tight as possible which is hard with my frame to say the least. It is cheaper and faster for me to buy the bolt on skewer which applies the same pressue then to spend 80 bucks on a conversion kit plus wait for it to get here from the UK and still have to buy the same bloody chain tugs.
running any kind of qr is no where near as good as bolt on, the wheel will move from the loads. but as you said qr with chain tugs will work, so just do that.
running any kind of qr is no where near as good as bolt on, the wheel will move from the loads. but as you said qr with chain tugs will work, so just do that.
what ive siad 4 times already is that The way the pro2 bolts on works the same way as the skewer just with bigger bolts.
my hope pro 2 trials came stock bolt on, and still slipped, even with chain tugs. in fact i stripped 2 tensioners trying to keep my wheel in place. ends up the stock hope bolts are made of shoddy pressed alloy; replaced with some solid steel bolts from the hardware store and the wheel hasn't slipped since. i wouldn't trust a QR on a SS bike unless i had no other options, chain tensioners are designed to put tension on the chain. those tiny bolts have no hope of holding a wheel in place under load if the axle bolts/nuts can't do the job in the first place. if you're having problems getting proper tension on your own, ditching the QR will allow you to 'walk' the wheel backwards to achieve proper tension, something QR won't allow you to do since it clamps both sides down at once.
my hope pro 2 trials came stock bolt on, and still slipped, even with chain tugs. in fact i stripped 2 tensioners trying to keep my wheel in place. ends up the stock hope bolts are made of shoddy pressed alloy; replaced with some solid steel bolts from the hardware store and the wheel hasn't slipped since. i wouldn't trust a QR on a SS bike unless i had no other options, chain tensioners are designed to put tension on the chain. those tiny bolts have no hope of holding a wheel in place under load if the axle bolts/nuts can't do the job in the first place. if you're having problems getting proper tension on your own, ditching the QR will allow you to 'walk' the wheel backwards to achieve proper tension, something QR won't allow you to do since it clamps both sides down at once.
The system i am getting allows me to use to "nubs" that attach teh the skewer. its desighes only for the pro 2 so each side tightens indevidualy essentially making it a lighetr bolt on. the chain tugs i need because if i don't get my wheel tension bang on the chain will slap and ruin my glow paint that chips really easy.
if you are able to individually tighten each side, you shouldn't need tugs to get proper tension: pull the wheel back as far as you can in the dropouts, tighten one side down, then pull the front of the wheel (between the chainstays) to one side so that the non tightened side of the axle slides backwards to the desired position (essentially turning the wheel into a big lever, pivoting on the bolt that is already tightened down). lock the loose bolt down and repeat the process on the other side until you have the correct tension. takes a bit of practice to get down but once you get it you'll wonder why you even considered anything else.
if you are able to individually tighten each side, you shouldn't need tugs to get proper tension: pull the wheel back as far as you can in the dropouts, tighten one side down, then pull the front of the wheel (between the chainstays) to one side so that the non tightened side of the axle slides backwards to the desired position (essentially turning the wheel into a big lever, pivoting on the bolt that is already tightened down). lock the loose bolt down and repeat the process on the other side until you have the correct tension. takes a bit of practice to get down but once you get it you'll wonder why you even considered anything else.
i know how to tighten a wheel and chain again my issue is I have 3mm of clearnce fore about 2 inches of chain stay if it isnt at the bang on tension then it will slap and ruin my paint.