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Chinese carbon rims..... Anyone got them are they any good?

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Chinese carbon rims..... Anyone got them are they any good?
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flag jrocksdh
Posted: Jan 27, 2016 at 13:22 Quote
What's up with the new asymmetrical rims?
Pretty dang expensive compared to the $185ish reg set.
http://www.light-bicycle.com/EN928-asymmetric-rim-profile-carbon-29-inch-mountain-rims.html

I guess nox are asym...worth the extra $?
flag Gaci
Posted: Feb 3, 2016 at 5:22 Quote
I just got the Nextie 35mm with 28internal width, i think they are more "wise" choice for rockier trails since the rim is not that exposed and riding magicmary in hansdampf they say they are not good anymore with 31-33mm interal.

Will report once laced and ridden

Still pondering which hubs should i go, i have my eyes on hope pro 4, need 20x110m front but somehow like the reliability of dtswiss 350 or 240, with 240 the put off is price with 350 there is this massive weight in the front hub at 240g for 20x110mm axle version..
flag icdesign
Posted: Mar 4, 2016 at 15:01 Quote
Been two seasons on Nextie 40mm hoops on DT #50, Sapix X-Ray spokes and Sapim thread locking brass nips.... I weight 240lbs.. and race as well. True as the day I built them! No cracks..

Had an incident where I backed into another rack and the other rack hit one of the spokes in my wheel. PONG.. nipple failed, spoke unharmed or bent. rims unphased!

Highly recommend!

Stoke to throw on my new Minion DHF and DHR 2 WT (Wide Trail - wide rim specific) versions one in a week or so!
flag Gaci
Posted: Mar 6, 2016 at 4:07 Quote
I regret it soo much i didnt go with 40mm rim, really like the 35mm and all but that extra beefiness is still wanted Big Grin
flag TheUnknownMTBR
Posted: Mar 6, 2016 at 4:24 Quote
I dunno, was on an aerobic pedaling course yesterday with near-plus size tires that together weigh about 1900g on l-b 38/i32 for the first time and was huffing & puffing way more than I had ever been before there same wheels and 1000g of tires. Not sure I'd want any more rotational mass in that situation. Have to say they were pretty awesome everywhere else though.
flag sbrdude1
Posted: Mar 6, 2016 at 21:57 Quote
theminsta wrote:
With stretched tires, it helps a lot actually.

Worn beads will blow off much easier on a hookless rim than a hook/clincher rim.
Not true at all. A worn out bead simply means that you need to replace your tire. All a bead hook does is add weight and cost to any wheel which is why cars don't have them.
flag jrocksdh
Posted: Mar 10, 2016 at 15:51 Quote
Gaci wrote:
I just got the Nextie 35mm with 28internal width, i think they are more "wise" choice for rockier trails since the rim is not that exposed and riding magicmary in hansdampf they say they are not good anymore with 31-33mm interal.

Will report once laced and ridden

Still pondering which hubs should i go, i have my eyes on hope pro 4, need 20x110m front but somehow like the reliability of dtswiss 350 or 240, with 240 the put off is price with 350 there is this massive weight in the front hub at 240g for 20x110mm axle version..

My MM has been working great LB 38mm 29".
Not one burp and barley a wash out; 23ish psi.
Love it waaay more than 2.3 dhf-waaay to narrow
flag Pablo16v
Posted: Mar 11, 2016 at 5:41 Quote
Similar story here. I’ve been running a MM up front on a 35mm (30mm int) 29er LB rim and it has been great. Low twenties pressure, zero burping or folding, just loads of grip. Agree about Minions being too narrow for front use but DHF/DHR2 are both great on the rear.
flag chickenrunz
Posted: Mar 22, 2016 at 22:42 Quote
sbrdude1 wrote:
sq225917 wrote:
I'm guessing yours got an extra lacquer spray post mold clean up. Are yours gloss or Matt?
Matte with gloss on the inside to allow better adhesion of tubeless taping. Plain carbon is a bitch to tape!

Wow I stumbled upon this thread and I'm very excited! Got some questions (sorry very noob on wheel building)
- how does hookless work to seat the beads?
- do you choose 3K, 12K or UD weave?
- how many holes for 650b all mountain wheel?

Thanks
flag sbrdude1
Posted: Mar 22, 2016 at 23:44 Quote
chickenrunz wrote:
sbrdude1 wrote:
sq225917 wrote:
I'm guessing yours got an extra lacquer spray post mold clean up. Are yours gloss or Matt?
Matte with gloss on the inside to allow better adhesion of tubeless taping. Plain carbon is a bitch to tape!

Wow I stumbled upon this thread and I'm very excited! Got some questions (sorry very noob on wheel building)
- how does hookless work to seat the beads?
- do you choose 3K, 12K or UD weave?
- how many holes for 650b all mountain wheel?

Thanks
1. As long as the bead of your tire is of good quality and capable of a tubeless conversion it will work that same as if the rim had a bead hook machined into the rim. Cars are tubeless with no bead hooks and that has been proven to be a useful technological advancement.
2. The structural core of most CF rims is made from 3k weave. as far as one being better than the other in this for the given use all are equal.
3. It all depends on the hubs you're planning on using and what type of riding you will be doing. I do aggressive XC/Trail with some All Mountain rides mixed in so I have a reasonably light rim laced up with 32 J-Bend style bladed spokes for both the front and rear. I have more detailed specs in my picture folder named www.light-bicycle.com 29r.
flag Pablo16v
Posted: Mar 23, 2016 at 1:41 Quote
I’ve had my 29er 35mm hookless Light Bicycle rims for two years this month and they haven’t given me any problems. All Maxxis, Conti, WTB and Schwalbe tubeless ready tyres have inflated and held pressure without issue and I’m running low pressures too. F: 22psi, R: 28psi. Mine are UD weave, but it is only the outer finishing layer.

“For 3k/12k/UD, it is the outer carbon fiber layer to make the carbon fiber with different outlook. It is only the outer layer different and all the inside carbon fiber are the same. So, the strength & weight are almost the same. 3k/UD & matte are more popular."

As per sbrdude I went with a stronger build based on the type of riding I do so I have 32h Hope Pro2 Evo hubs laced to the LB 35mm rims with DT Comp spokes (traditionally laced) and brass nipples. 1700g with tape and valves, which is competitive for a tough 29er wheelset.
flag sbrdude1
Posted: Mar 23, 2016 at 17:19 Quote
Pablo16v wrote:
I’ve had my 29er 35mm hookless Light Bicycle rims for two years this month and they haven’t given me any problems. All Maxxis, Conti, WTB and Schwalbe tubeless ready tyres have inflated and held pressure without issue and I’m running low pressures too. F: 22psi, R: 28psi. Mine are UD weave, but it is only the outer finishing layer.

“For 3k/12k/UD, it is the outer carbon fiber layer to make the carbon fiber with different outlook. It is only the outer layer different and all the inside carbon fiber are the same. So, the strength & weight are almost the same. 3k/UD & matte are more popular."

As per sbrdude I went with a stronger build based on the type of riding I do so I have 32h Hope Pro2 Evo hubs laced to the LB 35mm rims with DT Comp spokes (traditionally laced) and brass nipples. 1700g with tape and valves, which is competitive for a tough 29er wheelset.
I'm glad that they've worked out well for you dude!
flag carbonwheels
Posted: Aug 24, 2016 at 1:54 Quote
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