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Avid brakes Compalint.

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Avid brakes Compalint.
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flag plutonium10
Posted: Nov 30, 2009 at 18:17 Quote
Took the Code 5s to a shop because I though my bleeding skills were bad. The mechanic did "the best he could" but my previous bleed was actually better Very confused . The levers still almost touch the bar when I squeeze hard. Thoughts? Suggestions? Comments? Is this how Code 5 levers should feel?
flag Hombre3000
O+
Posted: Nov 30, 2009 at 18:43 Quote
No. I had Code 5s and they were incredibly powerful and the lever throw was fairly short (normal). Try adjusting the reach with a 2.5mm (I think) allen.
flag plutonium10
Posted: Nov 30, 2009 at 20:00 Quote
Hombre3000 wrote:
No. I had Code 5s and they were incredibly powerful and the lever throw was fairly short (normal). Try adjusting the reach with a 2.5mm (I think) allen.

Hmmmm...ok. I tried it allready though. Initial impression is that they will still have some good power after the pads bed in. (snow's melted so I'll be out tommorow.) The spongy levers won't be a problem until Kicking Horse next spring, and then they'll get a proper bleed at a (different) shop.
flag dmadness
Posted: Nov 30, 2009 at 20:19 Quote
Seariously, Learn to bleed your own brake's and Your problems will dissapear. When You bleed them adjust the pad contact so it is as far out as posible, try hooking up a bleed syringe to just the top of the lever also ( if you still have problems after a bleed ) and pull lightly on it, It will dispalace the air in the lever and replace it with Dot.

this is such an easy thing to do ( bleed brakes ) and such a Common complaint It Frusterates and baffles me at the same time. Madder Facepalm

it's really Really Easy.
flag dmadness
Posted: Nov 30, 2009 at 20:21 Quote
note that the Arrow on the pad contact points points in the direction of the least contact, or greatest lever throw Also ( dispite what it MAY say on the knob )
flag wholeeoh07
Posted: Dec 11, 2009 at 23:18 Quote
I had a ton of problems with Avids on my Nomad , until I learned to set them up properly . Now they are great with minimal fuss & with an occasional squeal under wet conditions ! They were a pain to set up though once you learn what you have to do its quick and easy !!!
flag plutonium10
Posted: Dec 12, 2009 at 9:08 Quote
My Code 5s seem to be exhibiting great stopping power (albeit with what I had been considering squishy lever feel.) My thoughts about the "squishy lever feel" are most likely biased by the BB7s I've ridden since getting disk brakes, so the real test will be to see if they fade out on a long ride.
flag dmadness
Posted: Dec 12, 2009 at 18:17 Quote
Well Since Fluids are NoN-CompReSSiBle, its a pretty safe bet that the "squishy lever feel" is from air in the line, Which will heat up and boil on a long run down.... and that will be bad for seals and in extreme cases of boil, rupture the line as it expands 1700 times its volume when it flashes to steam. Salute


99% of "brake provlems" on pinkbike, are solved by A: BLeed your line... properly. Really Mad
or B: Change your brakepads.

the only other component that could even fail beyond that are lever or Caaliper Seeals which are Cheap as hell to buy and easy to install.


... Go bleed your line now, practice and get good at it.Salute



( I know, rotors could be untrue, or have contamination issues also.... buy new rotor.... Occasionally give em a scratch with grit paper ) Done.
flag nickjames
Posted: Dec 12, 2009 at 18:48 Quote
I have juicy7 and I relized that the resivor cap screws seem to come lose and let air in. I would here a hissing sound and saw fluid come out just a bit. I tightened them up bled and they worked great. They are way better than any Hayes breaks in my opinion.
flag cake1dlx
O+
Posted: Mar 11, 2010 at 11:59 Quote
On my new set of Codes I noticed there is an issue in the rear caliper. When looking at the back of the bike, The outside pistons (left) move away from the rotor while the inside pistons (right) move towards it. I get a terrible "shutter/vibration" out of the rear of the bike while breaking. They have awesome power and I would like to keep them, but the vibration is really annoying. This might just be me not used to the whole Kona Brake Jack thing (if that's what the issue is I will get the DOPE system). Does anyone know how I could go about fixing this issue? Thanks.
flag Shoe2190
O+
Posted: Mar 11, 2010 at 12:33 Quote
dmadness wrote:
Well Since Fluids are NoN-CompReSSiBle, its a pretty safe bet that the "squishy lever feel" is from air in the line, Which will heat up and boil on a long run down.... and that will be bad for seals and in extreme cases of boil, rupture the line as it expands 1700 times its volume when it flashes to steam. Salute


99% of "brake provlems" on pinkbike, are solved by A: BLeed your line... properly. Really Mad
or B: Change your brakepads.

the only other component that could even fail beyond that are lever or Caaliper Seeals which are Cheap as hell to buy and easy to install.


... Go bleed your line now, practice and get good at it.Salute



( I know, rotors could be untrue, or have contamination issues also.... buy new rotor.... Occasionally give em a scratch with grit paper ) Done.

Not going to pretend i know alot about brakes but chemistry i do know a bit about and im slightly confused. The impression i get is your saying air in the lines will boil? Air is a gas its already boiled and also it seems your saying it will flash and turn to steam? This will only happen if theres water there as steam is gaseous water. Not sure if this is what you meant to say its just how it reads to me Confused
flag lafalot
Posted: Mar 11, 2010 at 14:48 Quote
Well you have reason to be confused alright. Air can't "flash" into steam, only water/ice can. Also brake lines don't rupture from the flashing of water to steam, because (a) water is not just sitting inside the brake lines by itself and (b) the pressure from steam formation is nothing compared to the PSI that brake systems have to withstand when you're mashing the levers.

What actually happens is that because many bakes use DOT fluid(which is glycol based), it absorbs the moisture in any air that gets inside the brake. Depending on how much moisture was absorbed, the DOT fluid's flash point will become significantly lower(doesn't take much moisture), and can flash into vapour on a long enough descent. The vapour then causes brake fade which, because vapour is very compressible, you'll pull your levers to the bar and you bike will barely slow down, causing panic attacks lol.

When people report their brake lines rupturing, it was from causes such as damaged hose, crappy plastic hose that's been overheated and worn down..etc certainly not from any flashing of fluid to vapour, although they may happen at the same time, doesn't mean they are directly related.
flag dmadness
Posted: Mar 13, 2010 at 21:23 Quote
Shoe2190 wrote:
dmadness wrote:
Well Since Fluids are NoN-CompReSSiBle, its a pretty safe bet that the "squishy lever feel" is from air in the line, Which will heat up and boil on a long run down.... and that will be bad for seals and in extreme cases of boil, rupture the line as it expands 1700 times its volume when it flashes to steam. Salute


99% of "brake provlems" on pinkbike, are solved by A: BLeed your line... properly. Really Mad
or B: Change your brakepads.

the only other component that could even fail beyond that are lever or Caaliper Seeals which are Cheap as hell to buy and easy to install.


... Go bleed your line now, practice and get good at it.Salute




( I know, rotors could be untrue, or have contamination issues also.... buy new rotor.... Occasionally give em a scratch with grit paper ) Done.

Not going to pretend i know alot about brakes but chemistry i do know a bit about and im slightly confused. The impression i get is your saying air in the lines will boil? Air is a gas its already boiled and also it seems your saying it will flash and turn to steam? This will only happen if theres water there as steam is gaseous water. Not sure if this is what you meant to say its just how it reads to me Confused

There is water in air, but I suppose what I meant to say is that the air will heat up and expand, as I know you know it is not inert like nitrogen. it takes 1/4 of a calorie to Raise one gram of air 1 degrees, and your caliper and brake pads are generating sufficiant energy to cause the air to heat up immensly, but if your lines are properly filled with dot they will perform better because they will boil at a much increased temperature... squishy leaver = air in line .


... I suppose we could bog down with discussion on latent and specific heats and Relative density's but to what end.
Salute
flag cruelty-and-the-beast
Posted: Mar 14, 2010 at 0:20 Quote
To what end you ask? the end of what to we do about brake fade... can we not manufacture a brake fluid that doesnt expand at 180 degrees?
flag spunky888spanky
Posted: Oct 25, 2010 at 12:00 Quote
sorry if its been covered but has any one changed the pistons on juicy 7s. there is a sort of pin on the piston that stops the brake pads coming out which has snapped off. will i need a bleed kit? and how do i do it? Any one who knows please help me!!!

 


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