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How to cure streaky/running lacquer...

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How to cure streaky/running lacquer...
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Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 14:20 Quote
its gradually looking better Razz im gonna let it harden then sand the lumps away then spray one last coat Razz

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 14:42 Quote
It is moisture, humidity has to be below 80% or it goes misty and runny
so sand it back smooth, wet and dry (high grit) wait for low humidity and then re spray 3 or 4 light coats, with 1 hour intervals

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 14:52 Quote
sand it all down again with fine paper then spray it again, do lots of thin coats from a distance, move the can fast to, don't try cover ever lil spot because after a few coats it will cover it all

thicker clear coat actually chips easier, lots of thin coats is best

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 14:53 Quote
do i need to sand it down to the metal or just until the lumps are gone?

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 14:55 Quote
well depends how perfect you want it, if you just want to cover the metal just sand the lumpy dribbly bits and spray again

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 15:00 Quote
ah will do that then Razz need it built before sunday and it takes a day to harden proper Razz

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 15:04 Quote
let the lacquer warm up before spraying, put it on a radiator or something

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 15:06 Quote
get sanding down and do as i said up above, do like 5 thin coats, hold the can about a foot away, maybe more, but move the can quick! don't give it a chance to get to thick

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 15:12 Quote
bongo136 wrote:
let the lacquer warm up before spraying, put it on a radiator or something

+ shake well and make sure the cap isnt slightly blocked, i may corse it to splatter making it drip, i solve that by getting proper graffiti caps made for low presure and filling in letters(called soft caps), the caps that come on the car paint stuff are much harder to use

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 15:18 Quote
nowhere-fast wrote:
bongo136 wrote:
let the lacquer warm up before spraying, put it on a radiator or something

+ shake well and make sure the cap isnt slightly blocked, i may corse it to splatter making it drip, i solve that by getting proper graffiti caps made for low presure and filling in letters(called soft caps), the caps that come on the car paint stuff are much harder to use

true, i was using a can of car paint stuff whilst spraying my forks, started the final coat to find the nozzle was blocked, leaving big splats Frown

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 15:24 Quote
yeah its shitty stuff, graffiti paint is actually much better, its made at a much higher quality and half the price, only niggle is they don't do clear coat or primer

but i used it many times and it works great, use these below next time, the paint on the site is also much easier to use, comes out smoother and slower

caps...

http://www.thebench504.com/product/10-mtn94-skinny-caps-mtn94-belton/

http://www.thebench504.com/product/10-belton-grey-banana-belton-mtn94/

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 15:26 Quote
thanks for that, will bare that in mind for next time. does graffiti paint stick aswell as car paint though?

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 15:40 Quote
it can do yeah, obviously need clear coat if you don't want it to chip but i done it and it worked great, some people thought it was the factory paint job!

heres an example, all done with graffiti paint, clear coat used on the bars and forks though

photo

...wow that was ages ago

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 15:43 Quote
yea! looks good. had a little look at the paint on that website you linked. its alot cheaper too. might have too try that when i next come to spray something. cheers

Posted: Mar 17, 2011 at 15:48 Quote
try mtn 94 Smile my favourite, also smells fruity

i used it many times on rims, stems, chainrings, seat clamps and had no problem with any of them flaking off or anything

another example Razz same bike but like 6 months later, wheels and forks repainted to(no clear coat)
photo


 


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