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STP2012 need some suggestion

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STP2012 need some suggestion
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Posted: May 5, 2012 at 10:50 Quote
FRAME and fork===

Frame -- great looking! strong for sure. unknown wight, don't want waste time to take bike a part and reassemble just to wight it on inaccurate scales. AND it's great looking!

FORK -- stiffy, strong, heaver, but cheaper also. 2616g says the marzocchi site. I don't know if can replace the steel tube. If so, it could be lighter.

=======================================================

WHEEL SET===

tire -- great! they are very light wight, and very strong grip, not bad compare to holly roller and the worm one from maxxis, even lighter (online source). and good anti-piercing. In fact, mine never got pierced. just a lot snake bite from stair.

rim -- wight 675g(online source,official site says 615g!!??), strong so far. It's wide, but it have sharp edge, low pressure will get A LOT snake bite

spoke -- 14g ( what dose it mean?)

hubs -- (F) giant hub: complete unknown (R)it must be very light, since it looks thin, and ONLY 15 CLICK !!! so hard to control kicking/punching.

in all, wheel set looks should be very light, why the hell is bike so heavy? some pepl must be lying about wight.

========================================================

DRIVETRAIN===

break -- Avid Elixir 1. it is a good break, cheap, but good. maybe litl heavy, but, how heavier can break get?

shifter -- SRAM X4. nothing to see here.

Chain -- shimano HG-40, yes it's a cheap chain, nothing too bad. not much wight.

Crankset -- Truvativ Hussefelt with MRP Mini chain Guide. they are good. with Truvativ Howitzer BB, they just bit stiff. don't know witch part is wrong.

=========================================================

other parts all giant. Strong enough. not too much wight.
each part can save a few g
this means if I am going to make my bike from 15kg+ to 13kg-, I need to buy top the line product.

and if those online site said about parts wight are true. I have some of the lightest parts already!

Posted: May 7, 2012 at 20:33 Quote
OK, my SS kit is getting ready. hope pro 2 evo ss/trial
actually my dream make my choose. I dreamed about it, and got too excited, then I woke up.
I think removing all gear shifting stuff is going to take near 1 kg of the bike. I'm start to think is giant lying about STP2012's wight. 13-14kg, really? can there be 1.5kg different ?

any ways, can I just remove my 36t front spoke, chain guide, then put on a 22t one? dose the chian guide space need to be filled?

if any one can tell me, never got SS befr. all parts is shipping from far away.

Posted: May 7, 2012 at 22:40 Quote
Hope pro 2 SS is an excellent choice as a hub.

If you change your front gear ring from 36t to 22t you will need to change the rear one to accommodate.

I recommend you do not go 22t but 25t and change the rear to 12t.

25t for front sprocket
12t for rear cog

If it's too easy to pedal then you can always change the front one slightly bigger or the back one slightly smaller. In my opinion it's not a good idea to go any smaller than 12t rear and 25t front or you may have clearance and fitment issues.

Make sure your crankset is compatible with such a small front sprocket.

I personally know a 12t will fit on the Hope hub.

A good guideline to follow is to strive for is a 2:1 ratio. As in 25t front and rear 12t (12x2=24) is almost 2:1.

Sorry if my english sounds like I'm talking down to you, but I'm just trying to make it easy to understand.

Posted: May 7, 2012 at 23:29 Quote
lexx, thank you, I understand what you mean. very helpful!

I think It's OK to talk down to me, I am a newbi. although I'm not feeling you are.

I am struggling at gear size about to get. thank you!

so, I don't need anything to fill the gap, if I remove the chain guide? it dose looks like it was on BB. like it replaced 2 front ring.

O+
Posted: May 8, 2012 at 14:54 Quote
If you are still running multi speeds see what gear feels good to you while you have options then replicate that gear with just one option.

Posted: May 9, 2012 at 1:35 Quote
These are what I bought this month:

Spank spoon wheel set(F&R)
Spank hub 10X135 thru axle adapter
DT swiss RWS 10x135 thru QR
Spank Subrosa handlebar
Shimano m810 crankset
Da bomb MK19 stem
Da bomb 9to1 SS kit and a 15t gear
Race Face 32t single chain ring
KHE 3/32 half link chain

I'll keep DJ2 till it broken.

Posted: May 11, 2012 at 11:16 Quote
WOW, how much those gonna cost you !!??

imported parts are so expensive !
so,since I'm on low level now, I think I go where my need point me.
right now, low engagement is my largest issue.

but when I looking around internet, I have an other problem.
since the hope pro 2 trial/ss have 6speed cog. I want to find a 6 speed shifter than fit it. but I can't.
all 6 speed shifters are poor, or not suitable for aggressive riding.
I believe since this is a 6 speed hub, an't there should be a shifter that fit?

I'm going to get a SS set, but I also want a geared setting, for all kinds use.

Posted: May 11, 2012 at 13:12 Quote
Find out what the spacing is for the cassette that the hub will fit.

All you have to find is a shifter that will move the correct distance per ratchet of the shifter. Which means any speed shifter will work as long as it can shift the correct distance between each cog that the hub is designed for.

Which means you just have to find out what type of cassette it will fit and buy the according shifter.

Don't worry about shifters having a bigger range like 9 speeds or something like that because there are limiting screws on them.

Limiting screws set the maximum and minimum distance the derailleur can travel so you don't shift into your spokes or off the end of your cogs.

Example would be the hub fits a 9 speed cassette. You take off 3 of the cogs so it's 6 speed and put it on the hub. You buy a 9 speed shifter/derailleur and install everything. You will set the low limiting screw so that you don't go farther than your last gear causing your chain to fall off. Then you will set your high limiting screw so it doesn't go above gear 6 on your shifter or your derailleur and chain will go straight into your wheel possibly destroying everything.

Remember that was just an example. I have no idea if it is 9 speed spacing.


If there is something you didn't understand, ask about it specifically so I can expand on it.

Also remember there are speed specific chains/cogs. SS chains, 9 speed chains, 10 speed chains and so on. When you switch to your SS components I would recommend to use SS specific cogs and ring(front), but it isn't exactly necessary.

Posted: May 12, 2012 at 7:17 Quote
I just bought pro2 evos (trials & reg) since I'm doing a wheel build. I think you lose a few pounds in the wheels before tires. And if you wanna go LIGHT you could get Mac2 tires and lOse another 1-2 pounds. Like the others have said just go SS. The rest is up to you Smile . Just remember rotating weight feels heavier than anything else on the bike so the wheels would be a great place to go on a diet. If you ever want to go on a diet for cranks you could go SLX or XT to shave some weight.

Posted: May 12, 2012 at 16:24 Quote
The spoke - 14g - referes to the thickness of the spoke, in that case 14 gauge.

And as others have already said, rotating weight counts, I'm sure I've read somewhere that because of different forces during acceleration that wheel weight counts for almost double it's own weight.

Posted: May 12, 2012 at 23:49 Quote
Rotating weight is the easiest place to lose weight that you can instant feel. Farther away from the centre of the wheel more of the effective feel.


HUB=less of a noticeable feel


TIRES/TUBES= most noticeable difference in feel


A cheap way to lose some weight is buy super thin tubes, but you have to pump them up until they're the max recommended on your tire sidewall so you don't get flats from the tube compressing all the way to the rim causing it to slice the tube. (pinch flats)

Posted: May 16, 2012 at 1:23 Quote
thank you guys for helping me!
WOW~ this is wheel wight is hole new idea to me..... yes it make sense. I'll looking to this! thax alot!
so basically, I will not only need light wheel set, and they need to be perfectly shaped?
allegedly, my rim is 520-570g, tires are lighter than holly roller. so they are OK. i think I will need DT spoke and maxxis tube.

thank you lexx.
I do have some confusion~
the limit screw is going to make me unable shift it above 6 speed? distance per ratchet of the shifter is always the same? I thought that is for Compression/stretched the whole distance a derailleur travels. like all distance per ratchet is compressed or stretched.
it can take some gear away from shifter?? this is also new to me!!

Posted: May 16, 2012 at 14:13 Quote
per ratchet distance is dependent on the shifter


theoretically all derailliuers can be used for any type of distance as long as it can go as far as the maximum and minimum distances you require it to.

Limit screws just limit the maximum and minimum travel of the derailluer. So you will set the limit screws to prevent you from going above 6th gear and from going under 1st gear so your chain doesnt fall off or your derailluer goes into your spokes.

You should visit your local bicycle shop and ask for more information/advice. They should be able to explain it to you in a more clear and easy fashion as they are professionals.


This may help https://norco.wordpress.com/2009/03/19/rear-derailleur-adjustment-what-you-need-to-know/

Posted: May 23, 2012 at 1:32 Quote
thax, I'm still bit confused, but it's ok, I'm waiting my HOPE PRO 2 to arrive, then I can do some test.

Posted: May 25, 2012 at 2:12 Quote
Ian-Gu wrote:
These are what I bought this month:

Spank spoon wheel set(F&R)
Spank hub 10X135 thru axle adapter
DT swiss RWS 10x135 thru QR
Spank Subrosa handlebar
Shimano m810 crankset
Da bomb MK19 stem
Da bomb 9to1 SS kit and a 15t gear
Race Face 32t single chain ring
KHE 3/32 half link chain

I'll keep DJ2 till it broken.

MAN, do you bought those oversea or in CN?
Can you recommend some online store that have good price and able to ship to CN?


 


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