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TUBELESS???

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flag asab22
Posted: May 22, 2018 at 10:02 Quote
As far as it ruining your rims I have no clue as I've only been tubeless for about a month now. I have heard that though especially if your tape job isn't good but it's not going to hold air in that case.

The ride quality was so much better, more grip everywhere (climbing, cornering, braking) but maintained low rolling resistance. I didn't have too much issue mounting my tires just make sure you do a dry run before you add sealant to make sure you can get the tires to seat. I found that I had to use two wraps of rim tape as the Rocket Rons I was using weren't tubeless ready so they didn't fit tight enough to seat.
flag nmuskier
O+
Posted: Jun 17, 2018 at 8:22 Quote
I've put the tubes back in!

In 2015, I shredded tread off of 2 Nobby Nic tires. I went to Ardent EXO. In 2016, I shredded the tread on 2 sets of them AND destroyed a front and rear carbon wheel. In 2017, I changed to Aggressor. I punctured the tread of a rear and dented an AL front rim.

I'm 178lbs. I can't ride below 28psi rear, 26psi front with Maxxis Aggressor 2.3". I can run this pressure with tubes. But now, I don't flat when a tread tears. I've been running the rear tire (that punctured tubeless) with a tube, no problems.

I'm now on Maxxis HRII, 2.4 front and 2.3 rear EXO with tubes. I feel they are just as fast (maybe faster) as Aggressor. I'm hoping for more sidewall support and more puncture protection. They definitely have more grip!
flag cmcrawfo
Posted: Jun 17, 2018 at 8:48 Quote
nmuskier wrote:
I've put the tubes back in!

In 2015, I shredded tread off of 2 Nobby Nic tires. I went to Ardent EXO. In 2016, I shredded the tread on 2 sets of them AND destroyed a front and rear carbon wheel. In 2017, I changed to Aggressor. I punctured the tread of a rear and dented an AL front rim.

I'm 178lbs. I can't ride below 28psi rear, 26psi front with Maxxis Aggressor 2.3". I can run this pressure with tubes. But now, I don't flat when a tread tears. I've been running the rear tire (that punctured tubeless) with a tube, no problems.

I'm now on Maxxis HRII, 2.4 front and 2.3 rear EXO with tubes. I feel they are just as fast (maybe faster) as Aggressor. I'm hoping for more sidewall support and more puncture protection. They definitely have more grip!

What are you riding on? Broken glass and Belt sanders? ... How are you munching through the casings? Replacing the tires before they get thread bear would probably help.
flag fartymarty
Posted: Jul 12, 2021 at 1:53 Quote
I'm new to this thread -

I've been on tubeless since 2010 and started with split tube then ended up ditching the tubes and running Gorilla tape. I always run schradder valves but that's a different discussion.

I've previously used 25mm wide Gorilla tape on a 30mm ID rim. The tape partially covers the bead seat and it generally seals up fine. Removing tyres can be a PITA as the tape bunches up against the inside of the bead therefore pushing the bead into the drop centre can be difficult on tight tyres (like the WTBs i've recently changed).

I changed a set of tyres over the weekend and used 3 wraps of electrical tape which is 18mm wide (maybe 19mm) and it doesn't cover the bead seat (only the drop centre). I am hoping that as the bead will not interfere with the tape it will last longer than the wider Gorilla tape and I can change tyres without having to re-tape and re-installing the valve. Ideally I want something that will last a while.

Has anyone tried Tesa 4289 tape as this looks good.
flag maxxx
Posted: Jul 12, 2021 at 11:22 Quote
In my experience electrical tape leaves the worst residue, so you might be in for a lot of scrubbing when it comes time to retape. People complain about Gorilla tape leaving residue, but I've found with the right technique it comes off totally clean (pull the tape folded back over itself and slow). I bought a roll of Polymide tape based on recommendations here as it's apparently what some overpriced mtb marketed rim tapes actually are, however this stuff can be bought on amazon in varies widths for ~$12CAD per 33 100ft roll. I do find it finicky as it has little stretch so near impossible to avoid wrinkles (at least with wider widths), and any amount of moisture will complete prevent sticking. I once couldn't get any adhesion whatsoever and realized it was because I brought my wheel into the house from the garage and it formed the slightest invisible condensation layer. Also if it starts to life, the sealant begins to lift it further.

In conclusion, I keep a roll over 1" gorilla tape on hand, even if just a backup in case of a stubborn rim job Wink
flag TimMog
Posted: Jul 12, 2021 at 12:38 Quote
fartymarty wrote:
Has anyone tried Tesa 4289 tape as this looks good.

Yes, it's very good. I'm also pretty convinced that most branded tubeless tape is just Tesa tape with an enormous markup
flag fartymarty
Posted: Jul 12, 2021 at 13:12 Quote
TimMog wrote:
fartymarty wrote:
Has anyone tried Tesa 4289 tape as this looks good.

Yes, it's very good. I'm also pretty convinced that most branded tubeless tape is just Tesa tape with an enormous markup

I've ordered some, the postage was more than the tape...
flag Martron12
Posted: Jul 13, 2021 at 21:32 Quote
fartymarty wrote:
TimMog wrote:
fartymarty wrote:
Has anyone tried Tesa 4289 tape as this looks good.

Yes, it's very good. I'm also pretty convinced that most branded tubeless tape is just Tesa tape with an enormous markup

I've ordered some, the postage was more than the tape...


Ive found using DT Swiss tape has vastly out performed all other tapes I've ever used. Its a lot more costly than other brands however. I like to combo it with Orange Seal, which i find out performs other brands as well. I live and ride in a dry desert climate if that helps anyone with any future decisions
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