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Post your Rocky Mountain Slayers!

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Post your Rocky Mountain Slayers!
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flag tophHATESzmbies
Posted: Apr 18, 2013 at 17:25 Quote
I never liked the 10x135 dropouts on my SS. I wound up having them bored out to fit a 12x135 thru-axle. Works like a charm now.
flag dropinbiking92
Posted: Aug 20, 2013 at 18:04 Quote
Finally.... my kind of thread Big Grin

photo

I need some real feedback. I need to find decals before I repaint the frame.

I'm up in the air about which brakeset to put on it.

Other than that, it needs some cleaning, and some accenting colours.
flag shredjekyll
Posted: Aug 20, 2013 at 18:49 Quote
dropinbiking92 wrote:
Finally.... my kind of thread Big Grin

photo

I need some real feedback. I need to find decals before I repaint the frame.

I'm up in the air about which brakeset to put on it.

Other than that, it needs some cleaning, and some accenting colours.

Get shimano XT, SLX, or Zee. I have tried all of them and they are all FANTASTIC and should literally last 10+ years with occasional bleeding (wicked easy) and the changing of pads every once in awhile.

I have formula the one on my slayer which are awesome but they are way too expensive and the extra $ doesn't really show up when comparing them to my brother's XT's. I also like the shimano levers WAY more and shimano ice tech rotors are bar-none.
flag dropinbiking92
Posted: Aug 20, 2013 at 19:05 Quote
Thanks mate! My local bike shops told me the same. I guess Shimano seems to reign supreme when it comes to setting up, adjusting, bleeding and maintenance

My slayer is an '07 and AFAIK it's stock. Front hub has been swapped, and it has an x-9 derailleur.

When I'm putting it back together I think I should replace the 32 with a 36 tooth ring and get rid of third for a bashguard. They've served me well over the years.

Just got the bike recently, so any ideas would help Big Grin
flag shredjekyll
Posted: Aug 20, 2013 at 19:17 Quote
dropinbiking92 wrote:
Thanks mate! My local bike shops told me the same. I guess Shimano seems to reign supreme when it comes to setting up, adjusting, bleeding and maintenance

My slayer is an '07 and AFAIK it's stock. Front hub has been swapped, and it has an x-9 derailleur.

When I'm putting it back together I think I should replace the 32 with a 36 tooth ring and get rid of third for a bashguard. They've served me well over the years.

Just got the bike recently, so any ideas would help Big Grin

I would absolutely agree that bash/36/small ring is your best choice. Only go for 38 if you absolutely cook on the downhills
flag jase111171
Posted: Aug 20, 2013 at 22:06 Quote
shredjekyll wrote:
dropinbiking92 wrote:
Finally.... my kind of thread Big Grin

photo

I need some real feedback. I need to find decals before I repaint the frame.

I'm up in the air about which brakeset to put on it.

Other than that, it needs some cleaning, and some accenting colours.

Get shimano XT, SLX, or Zee. I have tried all of them and they are all FANTASTIC and should literally last 10+ years with occasional bleeding (wicked easy) and the changing of pads every once in awhile.

I have formula the one on my slayer which are awesome but they are way too expensive and the extra $ doesn't really show up when comparing them to my brother's XT's. I also like the shimano levers WAY more and shimano ice tech rotors are bar-none.
there are lots of second hand saints (810s) around now for about the same price as new XTs that's what I'm going with
flag tophHATESzmbies
Posted: Aug 21, 2013 at 5:22 Quote
I have formula the one on mine also. No problems ..minus the stupid bleeding instructions. Still have yet to change the pads since last January. As for the drivetrain, I have mine setup 1x9 with 34t up front. I was using it as a miniDH, but since I moved, I've done a lot of trail riding with it. Climbs suck, but I have no desire to go back to a front derailleur.
flag shredjekyll
Posted: Aug 21, 2013 at 6:26 Quote
tophHATESzmbies wrote:
I have formula the one on mine also. No problems ..minus the stupid bleeding instructions. Still have yet to change the pads since last January. As for the drivetrain, I have mine setup 1x9 with 34t up front. I was using it as a miniDH, but since I moved, I've done a lot of trail riding with it. Climbs suck, but I have no desire to go back to a front derailleur.

Hows your chainline? Mine was pure garbage when i tried converting to 1x10 using just short chainring bolts. Bought some 0.6mm spacers in order to shim the chainring inwards so that it sat in the middle of the cassette and everything feels much more efficient. Previously it wasn't even worth shifting into the biggest cog due to how poor the chainline would be.
flag tophHATESzmbies
Posted: Aug 21, 2013 at 15:46 Quote
Mine is really good. I have the MRP mini g2 sl, x0 crank and derailleur, and 11-23 sram cassette. Chain sits straight on the fifth cog with no chainring spacers. The 23t cog is a little loud, but it has absolutely no trouble shifting to it and staying there.
flag shredjekyll
Posted: Aug 21, 2013 at 19:16 Quote
11-23?? Thats definitely why climbs are so brutal! I'm running a 32 with 11-36. Granted I rarely shift to the biggest two cogs but I have to for some of the climbs around me. I would love to see someone clear any of the the harder climbs around here with even a 30t and an 11-23 cassette!! For example I can run a sub-6 minute mile and squat 225 ass to grass 20 times at body weight of 165-170 and I struggle on a few climbing sections with 11-36!
flag tophHATESzmbies
Posted: Aug 21, 2013 at 19:44 Quote
Oh yah. I absolutely understand that's why climbs suck. I'm not afraid to hop off and hike it if I know I can't go any further. As I said, I built it for miniDH and I love the setup. I've thought of changing it, but I just can't go through with it.

What slayer model do you have? I have the royale ss. I guess I'm curious since mine lines up great with no special work, but yours didn't. Maybe a difference in the frame somehow..
flag shredjekyll
Posted: Aug 21, 2013 at 19:48 Quote
2012 Slayer 70 with Race face turbine crank and xtype bottom bracket. Right now I have no spacers on drive side, one spacer on non drive side, and the chainring shimmed in 1.2mm. I could easily shim it in another 0.6. Very weird how far off it was initially. With one spacer on driveside, no spacer on non drive side, and no shimming of the chainring it literally lined up with the 3rd or 4th smallest cog on the cassette lol....

 


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