Well out of bordom i decided to pull my dorados apart and replace the air spring oring with a xring. If its any good i will let you guys know.
Ok, let us know how it rides like that. I wonder really.
Im not expecting miracles but boredom got the better of me. Time will tell.
Well thought i would give you an update. First impressions were meh! Maybe some slight improvement on small bump sensitivity but nothing significant. Basically a its definitely an option but not one with any major noticeable gains over a short period. Definitely not worse though.
I read all 20+ pages on my phone this morning but can't remember now - can I run any old direct mount stem or does Shiver have its own stem type?
Also, can 888 top clamps be retrofitted?
I am not sure, but doesnt a normal direct stem fits? Never realy tryed on mine. But for sure someone knows. Also by 888 top clamps do you mean te crown? If so, it wont fit.
I read all 20+ pages on my phone this morning but can't remember now - can I run any old direct mount stem or does Shiver have its own stem type?
Also, can 888 top clamps be retrofitted?[/Qkuote] No on everything. Marzocchi use their own direct mount on everything older than 2012. Some have had luck with certain "boxxer" style DM stems that have adjustable reach by using longer bolts with a nut under the top crown. Kinda ugly, but may work. Some have just drilled 2 more holes thru the top crown, also installing longer bolts with a but underneath. Personally, I'd try and find the azonic 888 DM stem on the net. Or a marzocchi one. Another option is to have Risse Racing custom make a top crown for you with the "boxxer" style DM capabilities. They're roughly $100. As far as the top caps, well, it just isn't gonna work.
One more question - do "modern" bikes have shorter, longer, or roughly the same head tube lengths? I have a solid inch of steerer sticking out on the Turner and would like to trim it, but I'm afraid to because it's not like replacements are readily available...
In exchange for all my questions, a tuning tip: 10wt oil sucked on fast impacts, it would basically hydrolock and send all the impact straight to your wrists. 7wt is much better.
One more question - do "modern" bikes have shorter, longer, or roughly the same head tube lengths? I have a solid inch of steerer sticking out on the Turner and would like to trim it, but I'm afraid to because it's not like replacements are readily available...
In exchange for all my questions, a tuning tip: 10wt oil sucked on fast impacts, it would basically hydrolock and send all the impact straight to your wrists. 7wt is much better.
Any Marzocchi fork it's 7.5wt oil, you can ruin the dampening inside the cartridge if it's too heavy. yeah all bikes have different head tube lengths like my Shiver on my '06 A-Line it was exact and on my 2010 Team DH I got lots of head tube space, all depends on the manufactures design, I used the extra space to set my bar height where I wanted then filled the rest up with spacers and on top I have a gopro bar mount too do FPV camera shots instead of the cam hanging off the front of my skid lid in my field of vision.
Little red spacer on top is my camera mount, with a DM stem mine was drilled so I was able to use a normal DM stem but there are tonnes of adjustable ones that fit perfect no drilling or nuts needed uses all the existing tapped holes, know Raceface make one.
One more question - do "modern" bikes have shorter, longer, or roughly the same head tube lengths? I have a solid inch of steerer sticking out on the Turner and would like to trim it, but I'm afraid to because it's not like replacements are readily available...
In exchange for all my questions, a tuning tip: 10wt oil sucked on fast impacts, it would basically hydrolock and send all the impact straight to your wrists. 7wt is much better.
Depends on your weight. If you're bellow 200lbs then 7.5 wt is best. For example, in my monster T, I used 10wt. I'm 230 geared up. The factory springs were too soft and extra firm springs are basically non existent. So, after many different possibilities that I have contemplated, the easiest most accurate thing to do for me was adding a Schrader valve on the top cap in order to add 2 or 3 psi to each leg in order to achieve proper sag and such. And yes, newer bikes have taller headtubes. But, if you decided to buy a upper and lower crown for your Shriver's from Risse Racing, they do have a replaceable steertube. You could cut it to whatever size you want and replace it later with a longer one if need be. In my opinion, that honestly the best thing to do. Caught up $230 for brand new custom upper and lower crowns for you shiver. You can have them anodized whatever color you heart desires, you'll have the ability to bolt on whatever mainstream DM stem you want. And you won't have to potentially damage the original marzocchi ones. But, if you do get the Risse racing crowns, you must specify that you want the "boxxer" style DM stem setup. You can even have a flat upper crown made as well. Instead of a drop crown like the factory one.