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Chromag Stylus Requesting Input, Ideas, & Recommendations

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Chromag Stylus Requesting Input, Ideas, & Recommendations
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flag monsieurgage
O+
Posted: Mar 22, 2021 at 8:57 Quote
Anyone have any thoughts on what fork offset is optimal on the stylus? Mine comes Tuesday and will have a 64 degree HTA.
flag postridelacroix
O+
Posted: Mar 22, 2021 at 9:54 Quote
monsieurgage wrote:
Anyone have any thoughts on what fork offset is optimal on the stylus? Mine comes Tuesday and will have a 64 degree HTA.

Congrats on getting your new frame, mine showed up last week and I am stoked on it! I'm running a Z1 with a 37mm offset and it feels great. Granted, that was the fork I had, so running that offset was not a decision I really had to make.. I previously owned a Rootdown and ran both a 51mm and 44mm offset fork on that bike, the difference was pretty minimal, but I did feel like I was getting slightly better weight on the front tire in corners when I ran the shorter offset fork.

Overall, I personally would not swap a fork in the future only because of offset. However, when buying a new fork with a choice between two offsets, I would probably lean towards shorter offset, especially if it is going on a bike with a pretty slack HA.

Just my non-scientific, purely anecdotal findings on a bike that is not the Stylus, but kindof a 29 version of the Stylus lol.
flag monsieurgage
O+
Posted: Mar 22, 2021 at 11:43 Quote
postridelacroix wrote:
monsieurgage wrote:
Anyone have any thoughts on what fork offset is optimal on the stylus? Mine comes Tuesday and will have a 64 degree HTA.

Congrats on getting your new frame, mine showed up last week and I am stoked on it! I'm running a Z1 with a 37mm offset and it feels great. Granted, that was the fork I had, so running that offset was not a decision I really had to make.. I previously owned a Rootdown and ran both a 51mm and 44mm offset fork on that bike, the difference was pretty minimal, but I did feel like I was getting slightly better weight on the front tire in corners when I ran the shorter offset fork.

Overall, I personally would not swap a fork in the future only because of offset. However, when buying a new fork with a choice between two offsets, I would probably lean towards shorter offset, especially if it is going on a bike with a pretty slack HA.

Just my non-scientific, purely anecdotal findings on a bike that is not the Stylus, but kindof a 29 version of the Stylus lol.

Awesome, thanks for the input. 44-46 seems average now (maybe?) with 37 and 51 being on the ends of the bell curve.
flag mimtbr
Posted: Mar 24, 2021 at 7:18 Quote
I haven't tried any others on mine but FWIW 44mm feels pretty spot on.
flag monsieurgage
O+
Posted: Apr 3, 2021 at 16:38 Quote
photo

just trying to post a photo of my chromag build, lets see if this works
flag Notbn
O+
Posted: Apr 4, 2021 at 11:17 Quote
Looking good^^^

On another note, anyone having issues setting the proper B gap for shimano 12 speed on a stylus?

I just swapped my older GX 11 speed setup for a full SLX groupset with an XT cassette, but I cannot for the life of me get the B gap adjusted close enough. Even with the B screw backed all the way out, the cage is still very far from the bottom of the cassette and nowhere near the stamped mark that shimano provides. Adding tension to the B screw just moved the RD further away from the cassette. My chain length is currently 6 links plus a quick link which is longer than what is recommended by shimano (4 or 5 links plus quick link for a hardtail). I found with the chain at the shorter reccommended length the issue is the same if not more exaggerated.

Pics for reference

photo

photo
flag monsieurgage
O+
Posted: Apr 4, 2021 at 17:43 Quote
All I can think of is the size of the pulleys may be a factor. I have a gx drive train on right now and the pulleys are notably bigger it seems on sram vs shimano. Just double check derailleur position on the hanger. Other than that does it shift ok?

Notbn wrote:
Looking good^^^

On another note, anyone having issues setting the proper B gap for shimano 12 speed on a stylus?

Pics for reference

photo

photo
flag Notbn
O+
Posted: Apr 4, 2021 at 20:05 Quote
monsieurgage wrote:
All I can think of is the size of the pulleys may be a factor. I have a gx drive train on right now and the pulleys are notably bigger it seems on sram vs shimano. Just double check derailleur position on the hanger. Other than that does it shift ok?

Shifts good in the quick driveway spin I gave it. Will take it on a decent ride tomorrow and see how it does. I've seen a few threads on MTBR regarding problems with the B gap on the new shimano stuff and it not working with some hangar designs. Maybe I should give chromag a holler and see if they've heard anything.
flag monsieurgage
O+
Posted: Apr 6, 2021 at 23:14 Quote
might not be an issue then but yeah I would contact chromag out of curiosity.

Notbn wrote:
monsieurgage wrote:
All I can think of is the size of the pulleys may be a factor. I have a gx drive train on right now and the pulleys are notably bigger it seems on sram vs shimano. Just double check derailleur position on the hanger. Other than that does it shift ok?

Shifts good in the quick driveway spin I gave it. Will take it on a decent ride tomorrow and see how it does. I've seen a few threads on MTBR regarding problems with the B gap on the new shimano stuff and it not working with some hangar designs. Maybe I should give chromag a holler and see if they've heard anything.
flag monsieurgage
O+
Posted: Apr 6, 2021 at 23:15 Quote
how much of a difference does cushcore make?
flag postridelacroix
O+
Posted: Apr 7, 2021 at 9:54 Quote
monsieurgage wrote:
how much of a difference does cushcore make?

I am running a cushcore (rear tire only) and DH weight tires on my Stylus and it has made a lot of difference. I don't run cushcore on the rear tire of my science bike, but I probably wont ever be without it on the hardtail. It will not, however, be a noticeable difference if you do not mess with tire pressure. I have aired way down from my typical 28/30 psi to around 24 with the cushcore/dh tires and I am liking it a lot.
flag monsieurgage
O+
Posted: Apr 11, 2021 at 10:14 Quote
I am riding some OEM maxxis DHF and DHR EXO Maxx Terra pumped to 22-F and 28-R psi and I had a hard time getting any traction in the dusting of snow on Friday in Squamish.

Just for reference I rode:Two Birds -> Ditch Pig->uptrack->Angry M->uptrack->Hybrid->Lowdown->Pseudo->Save the Speedos (I think), it was new to me

The first is steep, then loam, then pretty standard stuff and I just had no confidence over those stripped down roots. I am wondering if my regular combo of Assagai F/R DH casing maxx grip should replace these tires when they wear out or if that is still overkill for a hard tail? The Assagai are soooo slow rolling, if they touch concrete for home and back laps they drain your soul.

I am having so much fun on the hardtail and riding my regular trails just to test my metal but I also wanted to stay true to the nature and spirit of a hard tail and not make it into an enduro pig. Does that make sense?

I am confused about what this bike wants.

postridelacroix wrote:
monsieurgage wrote:
how much of a difference does cushcore make?

I am running a cushcore (rear tire only) and DH weight tires on my Stylus and it has made a lot of difference. I don't run cushcore on the rear tire of my science bike, but I probably wont ever be without it on the hardtail. It will not, however, be a noticeable difference if you do not mess with tire pressure. I have aired way down from my typical 28/30 psi to around 24 with the cushcore/dh tires and I am liking it a lot.
flag monsieurgage
O+
Posted: Apr 11, 2021 at 10:17 Quote
What is the scoop on the B limit screw? I am curious and more curious now about running either shorter 10-45 shimano with a short cage derailleur or keeping 11 speed.

I have both 11 speed sramano franken drive train, new untested 12 speed shimano, and am running through a 12 speed GX. The GX is giving me issues and needs constant love and adjustment to shift nicely.

Notbn wrote:
monsieurgage wrote:
All I can think of is the size of the pulleys may be a factor. I have a gx drive train on right now and the pulleys are notably bigger it seems on sram vs shimano. Just double check derailleur position on the hanger. Other than that does it shift ok?

Shifts good in the quick driveway spin I gave it. Will take it on a decent ride tomorrow and see how it does. I've seen a few threads on MTBR regarding problems with the B gap on the new shimano stuff and it not working with some hangar designs. Maybe I should give chromag a holler and see if they've heard anything.
flag Notbn
O+
Posted: Apr 11, 2021 at 13:51 Quote
monsieurgage wrote:
What is the scoop on the B limit screw? I am curious and more curious now about running either shorter 10-45 shimano with a short cage derailleur or keeping 11 speed.

I contacted Chromag but haven't heard back. At this point I haven't messed with it any further, it shifts fine as it is right now. It's a bit clunky into some of the smaller cogs but that may just be a shimano 12 speed thing, not sure. No problems shifting up into the big cogs, in fact it probably shifts better up into the big cogs than down into the small ones.
flag postridelacroix
O+
Posted: Apr 12, 2021 at 8:58 Quote
monsieurgage wrote:
I am riding some OEM maxxis DHF and DHR EXO Maxx Terra pumped to 22-F and 28-R psi and I had a hard time getting any traction in the dusting of snow on Friday in Squamish.

Just for reference I rode:Two Birds -> Ditch Pig->uptrack->Angry M->uptrack->Hybrid->Lowdown->Pseudo->Save the Speedos (I think), it was new to me

The first is steep, then loam, then pretty standard stuff and I just had no confidence over those stripped down roots. I am wondering if my regular combo of Assagai F/R DH casing maxx grip should replace these tires when they wear out or if that is still overkill for a hard tail? The Assagai are soooo slow rolling, if they touch concrete for home and back laps they drain your soul.

I am having so much fun on the hardtail and riding my regular trails just to test my metal but I also wanted to stay true to the nature and spirit of a hard tail and not make it into an enduro pig. Does that make sense?

I am confused about what this bike wants.

postridelacroix wrote:
monsieurgage wrote:
how much of a difference does cushcore make?

I am running a cushcore (rear tire only) and DH weight tires on my Stylus and it has made a lot of difference. I don't run cushcore on the rear tire of my science bike, but I probably wont ever be without it on the hardtail. It will not, however, be a noticeable difference if you do not mess with tire pressure. I have aired way down from my typical 28/30 psi to around 24 with the cushcore/dh tires and I am liking it a lot.

Completely understand what you mean, and I think this is one of the most interesting issues one has to deal with on an "aggressive" hardtail's set up.. The geo is there to go fast down most anything so long as your body and the parts on the bike (especially the rear wheel) can handle it. I live in WA near some trails that are pretty reminiscent of Squamish (certainly not as much granite as Squamish, but steep/loamy/roots for days), and I think the roots are where the heavier weight tire/cushcore come into their own. The ability to air down really helps keep that tire from sliding down the roots or deflecting as harshly in my opinion.

I do want to specify that I am running Michelin DH34 Bike Parks front and rear on my bike. That is a 1200g tire, and the tread kinda reminds me of a hybrid DHR2/High Roller2. So not too too heavy and a pretty fast rolling tread/compound that doesn't kill me on the fireroad climbs. I would say if you want to run something sticky like Maxxgrip, then you might run like a DD rear and Exo/Exo+ front to save some weight and make things a little more efficient. Depending on your concern with punctures, you could probably get away with exo/exo+ and cushcore in the rear and maybe strike a perfect balance between climbing and descending prowess..

 


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