The Hope Pro II I rode for a race season was fit for the garbage can. They are very light but they have a relatively thin profile on them which makes it prone to breaking. However, it fulfilled its duty as part of a disposable wheelset so I really had nothing to complain about. I have also had issues with Ringle hubs that seize up too. For the price, I wasn't really expecting a whole lot out of either of those hubs. I have had better experiences with Chris King and that is where my loyalty lies. I only had one minor issue with their front hub and warranty gave me a new one.
My friend straight up snapped his rear King axle in half. Never had or seen an issue with a Pro2 and two of my friends also run pro2's. They seem pretty legit to me.
The Hope Pro II I rode for a race season was fit for the garbage can. They are very light but they have a relatively thin profile on them which makes it prone to breaking. However, it fulfilled its duty as part of a disposable wheelset so I really had nothing to complain about. I have also had issues with Ringle hubs that seize up too. For the price, I wasn't really expecting a whole lot out of either of those hubs. I have had better experiences with Chris King and that is where my loyalty lies. I only had one minor issue with their front hub and warranty gave me a new one.
I agree with 95% of what you say laurie. You're easily the smartest girl here. You are either out of your mind about the Pro 2 or got a lemon. IMO If you spend one cent more to get a different hub you are wasting money. Are you referring to the dishless design of the rear hub?
My CK hub issue was with a radial laced wheel and as we all know, that puts a ton of stress on the flanges. Therefore, I managed to rip a spoke right out of the flange. This was years ago when King still covered radial lacing under their warranty. I feel so old now that they have changed this to make it void their warranty.
Dishless hubs/wheels are supposed to be the best since the wheels are centered over the rim between the hub flanges. Therefore, you can use equal spoke lengths, tensions and angles on both sides of the wheel. Dishless wheels also distribute the load equally instead of forcing half the spokes to carry a majority of the weight. All of this makes for a stronger, more reliable wheel.
In Canada, there isn’t too much of a difference as far as price is concerned when it comes to a Pro II versus a King. There is maybe a $200-$300 difference and to have that ‘security’ of a 5 year warranty and a hub that will last for seasons on end and has a high resale value, it is an excellent investment. The Pro II 20mm is $120 and the rear is $300.
I know people who will not buy a bike if it has a 150mm hub and I also know people who won't buy a DH bike if it's 135mm. The hub spacing is one of the very few things in the bike world that has been proven that one side has an advantage, yet most people still have a personal prefrance one way or the other. A 150 is stronger, but some people will still want 135. In the end it will come down to a personal desicion based on your riding style and what you have to spend.
My CK hub issue was with a radial laced wheel and as we all know, that puts a ton of stress on the flanges. Therefore, I managed to rip a spoke right out of the flange. This was years ago when King still covered radial lacing under their warranty. I feel so old now that they have changed this to make it void their warranty.
Dishless hubs/wheels are supposed to be the best since the wheels are centered over the rim between the hub flanges. Therefore, you can use equal spoke lengths, tensions and angles on both sides of the wheel. Dishless wheels also distribute the load equally instead of forcing half the spokes to carry a majority of the weight. All of this makes for a stronger, more reliable wheel.
In Canada, there isn’t too much of a difference as far as price is concerned when it comes to a Pro II versus a King. There is maybe a $200-$300 difference and to have that ‘security’ of a 5 year warranty and a hub that will last for seasons on end and has a high resale value, it is an excellent investment. The Pro II 20mm is $120 and the rear is $300.
in the uk chris king are alot more expensive than hope plus hope have the best customer service over here thats why i bought them,,money no object id love ck!!!
I don't mean to threadjack here, but does anyone know of a rear hub that will fit a 2002 rocky mountain RM7? Reason I'm asking is because it only takes a 150/10mm hub, and for the life of me, I can't find any company that makes something like this.
A point that I haven't seen mentioned yet is axle diameter. In my mind that would have a greater impact on strength than the hub width. I mean 10 mm should be stronger than 9mm and 12mm stronger than 10mm, no?
If anything would a 150mm hub not just be a longer distance to support a given force? I mean a wider hub, as far as I can see, would have a longer arm for a given force to act through (therefore amplifying the total moment vs a 135mm spaced hub).
I haved ridden and raced on a 10mm axled 135mm spaced hub on a hardtail. and the hub is 6 years old. I also weigh a good 200lbs before gear. The hub is in perfect working order. - 135 is plenty strong
I always assumed that 150mm spacing was for added stability, not strength; and to allow for wider chainstays to accomodate wider tires, if that was your thing.
I don't mean to threadjack here, but does anyone know of a rear hub that will fit a 2002 rocky mountain RM7? Reason I'm asking is because it only takes a 150/10mm hub, and for the life of me, I can't find any company that makes something like this.
how does that work i have a 2002 RM7 and it does not have 150 spacing its 135/10 i had deemaxs on mine check out my pics to see (you will have to go back a few pages coz i stopped riding it a wile back)
i then got a demo 9 150 spacing!!! which is sweet i find 150mm corners better to!