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flag mrtee
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 at 2:06 Quote
a set of ztr 355 on hope pro 2's would be a nice light set. not sure about stateside but over here you can get some wicked deals on hope's 'hoop' packages.

i went for an ibeam and i-fly combo, pretty light and comfier than it looks.

dont change your tires! if you love em then dont compromise on the things that make the bike special. i went 1x9 which dropped 510g by losing mech, shifter, cable, granny and bash guard. i then put an lg1+ on there which weighs 200g so still nearly 3/4lb saved but there are lighter xc guides out there.

its tough to know where to start though cos everything you have is functionally fine but not the lightest out there so there are potential weight savings all over.
flag MD1975
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 at 2:48 Quote
Is this bike used for any racing? If not, around 26lbs is as light as you really need. Now, if it is raced, then you can trim here and such. I know alot of guys who trim bars and posts to shave a gram.

Personally, XT or XTR components and a set of lighter wheels should get you to your 26lb area. You can always go with TI nuts and bolts. But to me that might be overkill as cost vs. loss isn't that much.
flag Rattsl
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 at 8:05 Quote
No racing, I have thought about the Arches as a rim choice with Pro2's. I'll need the heavier rim because I tend to hit stuff pretty hard. My original wheels are still not out of true which is amzing. So I'm gonna upgrade things over time till I break the wheels, or something like that.
flag MD1975
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 at 14:06 Quote
Rattsl wrote:
No racing, I have thought about the Arches as a rim choice with Pro2's. I'll need the heavier rim because I tend to hit stuff pretty hard. My original wheels are still not out of true which is amzing. So I'm gonna upgrade things over time till I break the wheels, or something like that.


Then TI would be overkill. I mean you could change all bolts to TI and shave a fair ammount of weight. Probably say 400grams. But, the cost to do it wouldn't be worth it.
flag ste-tommo
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 at 14:18 Quote
Rattsl wrote:
My first thought would be XT cranks, and a XT cassette. Stem is changed, I forgot to edit...it's a Easton EA30 at 75mm, which should not be bad in terms of weight..plus I like the rise and length a lot. You think those two things would be a valid option?

read in a review the weight difference between SLX and XT was down to the fact the XT's use a lighter alloy inner ring, so if you drop the steel one for alloy,(or maybe altogether, granny never gets used much imo) you can have XT weight saving for price of SLX.

alternatively you could go for an MRP 1x xc chain device thats super light with a middle ring only, the xc racers are only running one gear at the front now and you can lose the weight of shifter and front mech in one fell swoop.
thats all i can think of for now
flag Rattsl
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 at 17:00 Quote
Ehh...I'm running a double now with a Gamut G25 bash and Blackspire 34t ring and Shimano 22t.
flag MD1975
Posted: Nov 20, 2009 at 23:09 Quote
Rattsl wrote:
Ehh...I'm running a double now with a Gamut G25 bash and Blackspire 34t ring and Shimano 22t.


I think XT or XTR is the way to go. But, if you have cash to spend. SRAM's new 2X10 stuff is light and works great. Friend rides it and it is slilky smooth and took a very noticeable ammount of his bikes weight.
flag mrtee
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 at 11:08 Quote
hear what you are saying on the wheels, i went for flows because they are still relatively light but wide and strong. id reconsider changing them last though, in terms of noticeable weight loss id be lloking at them first. especially if you are looking at hope hoops as price wise you will make more of a saying for less money than changing groupset parts to xtr.

i reckon have fun with it, dont get too wrapped up in having a list of what to buy and when, pick stuff up when you see good deals on it or when you see something 'must have'.
flag Rattsl
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 at 18:08 Quote
Word, in terms of cranks, I own SLX's and LX's only the SLX's are on my dj bike, which I kinda like them on there, but I have never checked the weight difference on both. XT will be eventually, I'm gonna see about the cockpit. Bike feels a bit heavy in my neck of the woods, lots of hills, but I got the gearing done properly already. I need to find some good places to lose weight for cheap. Thanks to the both of you for the input. I am gonna be planning to do XC races next season so...I wanna get it prepped up before the races, plus build up my endurance and stamina. So I gotta get used to this bike instead of my dirtjumper.
flag MD1975
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 at 19:15 Quote
Rattsl wrote:
Word, in terms of cranks, I own SLX's and LX's only the SLX's are on my dj bike, which I kinda like them on there, but I have never checked the weight difference on both. XT will be eventually, I'm gonna see about the cockpit. Bike feels a bit heavy in my neck of the woods, lots of hills, but I got the gearing done properly already. I need to find some good places to lose weight for cheap. Thanks to the both of you for the input. I am gonna be planning to do XC races next season so...I wanna get it prepped up before the races, plus build up my endurance and stamina. So I gotta get used to this bike instead of my dirtjumper.


Due to racing next season. I would not put many new things on the bike just yet. I am a personal trainer, my job. So, I would ride the bike for about a month with the extra weight. This will help you adapt much faster to the lighter parts you plan to add and make it alot better to train on. As for a solid 4 weeks you will be use to a bike that is 5lbs or so hevier. I have done this in the past with great results both in BMX( I only do gate starts on my race bike, but ride my street bike to train...more weight) and when I use to race MTB's before I just returned to them.
flag mr-wilson
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 at 21:09 Quote
Rattsl, bring the true weight weenie out. Raw it.....$10 and a wire brush.
flag Rattsl
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 at 21:17 Quote
mr-wilson wrote:
Rattsl, bring the true weight weenie out. Raw it.....$10 and a wire brush.
Lol, I have seen a raw EX8 and it looks sick, but I want my warranty and resale price to lol. To the dude above, thanks for the tips. I got a nice winter season to train and do night rides in. So when I start logging in the miles, hopefully I will lose some of my own weight in water and gain in muscle, but what's the best way to breathe in cold weather,...that's my weakness.
flag odin333
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 at 21:19 Quote
you get cold weather in Texas? Razz
flag Rattsl
Posted: Nov 21, 2009 at 21:24 Quote
It's 54 degrees farenheit right now and it will start dropping to the 27's and it gets icy and snowy here.
flag Loneryda
Posted: Nov 22, 2009 at 5:35 Quote
Hard to lose weight without paying $$$ I'd go lighter bars, lighter seatpost, stem. Lx cranks are cr_p get some XT's and you will be transfering them to the next bike you own as long as you dont crash'on'em real bad. Do you really need a 2.4 on the front? I got a six inch 36 lb bike and I use 2.3's on it.
Here's a formula to use, grms' n'dollars. Check the weight of the part you own and the weight of the replacment part you would get, note the difference in weight and then see how much per gram it costs to change over. Do this with all the parts you'd change and then pick the ones that have the best "bang for Buck" eg. old seat post vs new, Old 240 grams new 180 grams 60 grams weight saving for $60 = $1 per gram. Cranks 990grams new 850grams 140 grams for $100 = $1 per 1.4 grams.....get it? I dont do oz's 'n' stuff.

 


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