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My Wheel Building Guide
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Posted: Jun 13, 2013 at 7:51 Quote
I'll see if I can getto it or make my own at school. Is the dt spoke freeze really worth it? Kinda expensive

Posted: Jun 13, 2013 at 12:04 Quote
dusse123 wrote:
I'll see if I can getto it or make my own at school. Is the dt spoke freeze really worth it? Kinda expensive

It's definitely worth it but not 100% needed. Normal loctite works just as well but drys quicker.

Posted: Jun 13, 2013 at 12:10 Quote
I hate spoke prep/thread lockers on spokes. It dries way too tight and disallows mechanics to effectively true the wheel in the future. Stick to boiled linseed oil and you will have no trouble.

Posted: Jun 13, 2013 at 13:44 Quote
RyanWensley wrote:

Fourthly, buy a small punch and rubber mallet, this should be used to ensure your spoke heads are seated correctly in the flange, otherwise they can move and may lead to cracks later on.



Out of interest, cracks to the hub flange, or j bend on the spoke?

Posted: Jun 13, 2013 at 13:46 Quote
dusse123 wrote:
I'll see if I can getto it or make my own at school. Is the dt spoke freeze really worth it? Kinda expensive



Just use some 3 in 1 Honestly just keep on top of your wheels and you wont need loctight, most spoke de tensioning, if not all is from stretch, not rotating nipples, so really all oil does is means things turn easier when you come to true and re tension, though that pinging noise is the spoke loosing radial torsion by twisting in the static nipple.

Posted: Jun 14, 2013 at 0:59 Quote
James-Carey wrote:
RyanWensley wrote:

Fourthly, buy a small punch and rubber mallet, this should be used to ensure your spoke heads are seated correctly in the flange, otherwise they can move and may lead to cracks later on.



Out of interest, cracks to the hub flange, or j bend on the spoke?

Hub flange and J bend, not having it seated correctly allows movement of the spoke at the flange, meaning there is a higher possibility of cracking at both parts.

Posted: Jul 22, 2013 at 12:20 Quote
About to do my first build of a Mavic EX823 onto a DT 240s 150mm hub. Tried various calculators including DT's and Mavic's tech doc page and keep getting massively different lengths going from 253 to 261. Anyone built this combo before and know the correct length needed? 32H and 3x lacing as standard. Thanks in advance!

Posted: Jul 22, 2013 at 13:10 Quote
pete-c wrote:
About to do my first build of a Mavic EX823 onto a DT 240s 150mm hub. Tried various calculators including DT's and Mavic's tech doc page and keep getting massively different lengths going from 253 to 261. Anyone built this combo before and know the correct length needed? 32H and 3x lacing as standard. Thanks in advance!

Well Mavic'd site claims that the ERD is 559 but I have gotten multiple different ERDs off of various sites as well. Your best bet would be to contact Mavic directly and find out exactly what the ERD is and go from there. Or find someone who already has an EX823 custom-laced and see if they know the ERD.

With my spoke length calculator I get 255mm spokes on both drive and non-drive, with 3x lacing. So add 2mm to those lengths and you should be set, right?

Posted: Jul 22, 2013 at 13:20 Quote
seraph wrote:
pete-c wrote:
About to do my first build of a Mavic EX823 onto a DT 240s 150mm hub. Tried various calculators including DT's and Mavic's tech doc page and keep getting massively different lengths going from 253 to 261. Anyone built this combo before and know the correct length needed? 32H and 3x lacing as standard. Thanks in advance!

Well Mavic'd site claims that the ERD is 559 but I have gotten multiple different ERDs off of various sites as well. Your best bet would be to contact Mavic directly and find out exactly what the ERD is and go from there. Or find someone who already has an EX823 custom-laced and see if they know the ERD.
559 is the bead diameter, not the ERD. Mavic state it is 528 but using their own FORE nipples apparently you need to add 2mm each end giving 532 but even still this is giving differing values

Posted: Jul 22, 2013 at 14:52 Quote
pete-c wrote:
seraph wrote:
pete-c wrote:
About to do my first build of a Mavic EX823 onto a DT 240s 150mm hub. Tried various calculators including DT's and Mavic's tech doc page and keep getting massively different lengths going from 253 to 261. Anyone built this combo before and know the correct length needed? 32H and 3x lacing as standard. Thanks in advance!

Well Mavic'd site claims that the ERD is 559 but I have gotten multiple different ERDs off of various sites as well. Your best bet would be to contact Mavic directly and find out exactly what the ERD is and go from there. Or find someone who already has an EX823 custom-laced and see if they know the ERD.
559 is the bead diameter, not the ERD. Mavic state it is 528 but using their own FORE nipples apparently you need to add 2mm each end giving 532 but even still this is giving differing values

With my spoke length calculator I get 255mm spokes on both drive and non-drive, with 3x lacing. So add 2mm to those lengths and you should be set, right?

Posted: Jul 22, 2013 at 15:04 Quote
seraph wrote:
With my spoke length calculator I get 255mm spokes on both drive and non-drive, with 3x lacing. So add 2mm to those lengths and you should be set, right?
Cheers dude, with the advised 16mm nipples I guess I will have more room to play with than using 12mm ones so should be close enough...

Posted: Aug 12, 2013 at 14:38 Quote
Check this how to we made with friends
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoM-ivVrpAw

Posted: Aug 15, 2013 at 5:13 Quote
pete-c wrote:
seraph wrote:
With my spoke length calculator I get 255mm spokes on both drive and non-drive, with 3x lacing. So add 2mm to those lengths and you should be set, right?
Cheers dude, with the advised 16mm nipples I guess I will have more room to play with than using 12mm ones so should be close enough...


I built a set of ex823 on pro2 evo and I used 16mm nipples as suggested, just took 2mm off the measured spoke lenght and it worked perfectly. What Mavic means by fore is not a special nipple but just the eyelet that screws in the rim and holds the nipple in place, you do not need specific nipples, just longer ones and eyelets come with the rim.

Also I have linseed oil that I use when painting to dilute and add transparency to colours and I wonder if it is the type of oil you guys are talking about or if boiled linseed oil is different. If I can't use mine where can I find some?

Posted: Aug 15, 2013 at 10:19 Quote
MaxAlary wrote:
pete-c wrote:
seraph wrote:
With my spoke length calculator I get 255mm spokes on both drive and non-drive, with 3x lacing. So add 2mm to those lengths and you should be set, right?
Cheers dude, with the advised 16mm nipples I guess I will have more room to play with than using 12mm ones so should be close enough...


I built a set of ex823 on pro2 evo and I used 16mm nipples as suggested, just took 2mm off the measured spoke lenght and it worked perfectly. What Mavic means by fore is not a special nipple but just the eyelet that screws in the rim and holds the nipple in place, you do not need specific nipples, just longer ones and eyelets come with the rim.

Also I have linseed oil that I use when painting to dilute and add transparency to colours and I wonder if it is the type of oil you guys are talking about or if boiled linseed oil is different. If I can't use mine where can I find some?

Boiled linseed oil is a sealer for wood work. You can find it at any hardware or painting or home improvement store.

Posted: Aug 17, 2013 at 11:20 Quote
MaxAlary wrote:
pete-c wrote:
seraph wrote:
With my spoke length calculator I get 255mm spokes on both drive and non-drive, with 3x lacing. So add 2mm to those lengths and you should be set, right?
Cheers dude, with the advised 16mm nipples I guess I will have more room to play with than using 12mm ones so should be close enough...

I built a set of ex823 on pro2 evo and I used 16mm nipples as suggested, just took 2mm off the measured spoke lenght and it worked perfectly. What Mavic means by fore is not a special nipple but just the eyelet that screws in the rim and holds the nipple in place, you do not need specific nipples, just longer ones and eyelets come with the rim.
Should have posted an update to that, used 254 spokes and they are spot on - surprisingly simple to build up once you get into the pattern. Thanks for all the help


 


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