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2012 Specialized Demo 8/ bikes

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2012 Specialized Demo 8/ bikes
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flag Hobo1337
Posted: Oct 8, 2015 at 21:50 Quote
Farry wrote:
Thinking of getting the Vivid air on my 2012 demo. Which tune are people running? ML or MM

mm
flag Teo66
Posted: Oct 10, 2015 at 4:51 Quote
So I was lubing my bike and decided to check whether everything is aligned.
I removed the spring from the shock to compress, and also removed the spacers from the upper eyelet, to see if the shock tends to push lateraly on the bolt.

This is how the shock tends to move :
It sits quite a bit closer to the left side than the right, and when the spacers put it to the center I imagine it can create tension and bending forces to the shaft. Is this an issue with the yoke/ misaligned bearing in the yoke or is this considered normal deviation??


photo

photo
flag ctmtb98
Posted: Oct 10, 2015 at 5:21 Quote
Teo66 wrote:
So I was lubing my bike and decided to check whether everything is aligned.
I removed the spring from the shock to compress, and also removed the spacers from the upper eyelet, to see if the shock tends to push lateraly on the bolt.

This is how the shock tends to move :
It sits quite a bit closer to the left side than the right, and when the spacers put it to the center I imagine it can create tension and bending forces to the shaft. Is this an issue with the yoke/ misaligned bearing in the yoke or is this considered normal deviation??


photo

photo

I had the same problem with my trail bike (specialized camber) basically the bushing just wasn't centered enough so one side had more of the bushing than the other and resulted in the same thing, basically you'll probably be fine but if it bothers you like it did to me on my trail bike just use a socket bigger than the bushing on the smaller side and you use a vice with a good even side to press that bushing in enough to make it even, do just a little at a time to make it right. I believe this should fix it, but this is just the knowledge I have from my specialized trail bike, but from what it looks like I think you can apply the same method.

https://aldousvoice.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/p1020041.jpg

This is a shock absorber for a ferrari, (couldn't find better photo) but looks like pretty much the same method. Good luck!
flag Teo66
Posted: Oct 10, 2015 at 8:14 Quote
Hey man thanks for the reply. I'm not talking about the bushing or the pin. I'll try to explain.
There are 3 pieces, the hollow pin that goes into the bushing in the eyelet,
2 spacers - one on each side
and lastly there is the bolt that goes through the pin and holds the shock to the frame.

The bushing and the hollow pin that goes through the eyelet are centered no problem.
But the spacer on the left side was kinda squashed, and when I remove the spacers , and leave the shock bolted to the frame and compress the bike, the shock wants to push to the left side of the frame.

Maybe this is more clear:

photo

photo
flag dmadness
Posted: Oct 10, 2015 at 14:29 Quote
perhaps some shims made fro a cut beer can ( seriously, they work awesome and are softer than the surrounding metals so they wont mess it up.

That's all I got at present, did you perhaps loose a washer ?
flag mcbbuilds
Posted: Oct 10, 2015 at 14:43 Quote
When you compress the shock with no spacers in place the shock will take the path of least resistance hence why it moves to one side upon compression, this indicates wear in your bushing as a new one will be snug and would barely move. Try a new bushing and make sure you re-install the spacers either side






Teo66 wrote:
Hey man thanks for the reply. I'm not talking about the bushing or the pin. I'll try to explain.
There are 3 pieces, the hollow pin that goes into the bushing in the eyelet,
2 spacers - one on each side
and lastly there is the bolt that goes through the pin and holds the shock to the frame.

The bushing and the hollow pin that goes through the eyelet are centered no problem.
But the spacer on the left side was kinda squashed, and when I remove the spacers , and leave the shock bolted to the frame and compress the bike, the shock wants to push to the left side of the frame.

Maybe this is more clear:

photo

photo
flag kent
Posted: Oct 10, 2015 at 15:45 Quote
Going up gondola at whistler with my fresh brand new Ohlins - worth every pen this thing tracks just amazing puts the CC to shame super happy.
flag tf02
Posted: Oct 10, 2015 at 19:24 Quote
Farry wrote:
Thinking of getting the Vivid air on my 2012 demo. Which tune are people running? ML or MM

As mentioned, MM is the way to go. Don't think about it, just do it. Rear end is just under a pound lighter, and performance wise it blows away the RC4 and Ohlins.
flag cherouvim
Posted: Oct 10, 2015 at 22:01 Quote
@Teo66: Does it really push that hard to the left? Wouldn't the shock slide/rotate within the yoke bolt and center itself?
flag Farry
Posted: Oct 12, 2015 at 5:45 Quote
tf02 wrote:
Farry wrote:
Thinking of getting the Vivid air on my 2012 demo. Which tune are people running? ML or MM

As mentioned, MM is the way to go. Don't think about it, just do it. Rear end is just under a pound lighter, and performance wise it blows away the RC4 and Ohlins.

Cheers dude. Been running a custom vivid coil that was originally and ML but finding it blows through a bit on big hits and want to lighten the bike for next year so Vivid air looks to be the way to go. Has the more recent ones done away with the issues with turning the can round to fit into the y yoke?
flag tf02
Posted: Oct 12, 2015 at 8:58 Quote
Farry wrote:
Cheers dude. Been running a custom vivid coil that was originally and ML but finding it blows through a bit on big hits and want to lighten the bike for next year so Vivid air looks to be the way to go. Has the more recent ones done away with the issues with turning the can round to fit into the y yoke?

Not sure TBH, I've heard varying reports. I bought one on here already modified but it was a 2014 model.
flag Teo66
Posted: Oct 12, 2015 at 13:41 Quote
update:

Ok so remedied the problem like this:

photo


Fox pulled out, Vivid hammered in the Fox yoke and magically the shock sits right in the middle on the upper frame mount , everything straight and in line...

huh......
flag robd420
Posted: Oct 12, 2015 at 16:11 Quote
You hammered the Vivid into the yolk? Really!?!?

That's one way to ruin the shock yolk. Most people who change the shock on the Demo do some filing to the you'll, or machining, or dremmelling to it to make a shock fit. My Lbs even does that to fit a different shock on a Demo. I did that to make my Float X2 fit. Hammering the yolk in not only possibly damages the eyelet on the shock, but could also stress the yolk itself.

If this was my bike I'd be rethinking how much shock is attached.
flag Hobo1337
Posted: Oct 12, 2015 at 20:42 Quote
robd420 wrote:
You hammered the Vivid into the yolk? Really!?!?

That's one way to ruin the shock yolk. Most people who change the shock on the Demo do some filing to the you'll, or machining, or dremmelling to it to make a shock fit. My Lbs even does that to fit a different shock on a Demo. I did that to make my Float X2 fit. Hammering the yolk in not only possibly damages the eyelet on the shock, but could also stress the yolk itself.

If this was my bike I'd be rethinking how much shock is attached.

i have had to do this modification to about 3 or so demos and i found that hammering the shock with a rubber mallet into the yoke is the cleanest way i have seen it done. fits super snug, and it grooves the eyelet of the shock instead of the yoke itself. i wouldn't worry about it.
flag Teo66
Posted: Oct 13, 2015 at 9:51 Quote
Exactly this Hobo1337. A rubber malet was used and the vivid eyelet is only tenths of a millimetre fatter than the yoke. The demo link is forged , extra tough while the shock eyelet is cnc, quite softer.The shock eyelet has only 2 minimal scuffs each side from the yoke now, a lot cleaner I guess than using a dremmel and fits snuggly in there now. I have no idea about the X2 and the size and shape of its eyelet tho so maybe machining is the way to go there.

 


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