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Fox dpx2 service

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Fox dpx2 service
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flag sp00n82
Posted: May 8, 2024 at 6:12 Quote
Oh boy, acquiring that 5/16"-24 valve in Europe for a reasonable price is far harder than I imagined.

Not sure if Schmidty Racing delivers to Germany, but if they do, the postage may even be higher than the product price.

The (really nice) one from Shockcraft in New Zealand ends up at around 56€ including shipping (and excluding additional import fees/taxes).

The Motorcraft CM-3461 mentioned here before may be an option, which is available for 22€ on Amazon. Has anybody tried now if it actually fits the threads in the DPX2 as well?
In the original HuckingKitty forum thread, where this idea popped up, the OP had posted an exploded view of the RP23 shock, in which at least a 5/16"-24 thread is listed for the port.
flag SPSuspension
Posted: May 8, 2024 at 12:40 Quote
Threads for the DPX2 are the same as RP and DPS shocks.
flag ZSW
O+
Posted: May 8, 2024 at 15:52 Quote
You can leave the valve installed as long you don’t have any clearance issues with your frame. I’ve since gone back to using the standard pellet and retainer setup. I never had issues with the schrader valve but it was too hard to source something that would work and there’s little advantage since most people don’t want to mess with changing ifp pressure. I use 7mm oring cord to make my own pellets and fill using a tool from schmidty racing but it could be replicated with common plumbing parts if you’re handy
flag sp00n82
Posted: May 9, 2024 at 5:40 Quote
In another forum somebody mentioned that using the piggy back top cap from a Float X/DHX could work as well.
This top cap already has a valve integrated and it doesn't stick out. However you need to use an adapter to fill it, either the (expensive) Fox one, or the (much cheaper) red one from RockShox also seems to work.

The part number is 813-00-290-KIT


https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/img/help/page2865-PRY2/813-00-290-KIT.pdf
https://www.foxracingshox.de/341966/service-set-reservoir-end-cap-assy-2022-float-x-dhx-g2

photo
flag wilsonmortimer
Posted: Jun 4, 2024 at 5:23 Quote
O-ring cord, great idea. Thanks!!

Any reason I shouldn't use a standard flat bottom 5/16 - 24 set screw just in the body port not the nitrogen port? Having trouble with mine sealing. Plan to bleed while setting IFP depth with setscrew removed or mostly removed.

ZSW wrote:
Fribble wrote:
Near as I can figure from the commentary on Amazon, the Motorcraft-CM3461 fits older RP23 shocks. I'm going to try the 5/16 24 ORB one first on my DPX2. An odd thing is Schmidty list a third size, 5/16 32 ORB as "Used on Fox float shocks as well as others." Did Fox really use three different connections?
]

I don’t remember what exactly the 5/16-32 one fits but I remember seeing the finer thread on a shock before. Might have been an x2 or dhx2 I can’t really remember. “ORB” is some kind of engineer speak for noting that there’s a groove for an o-ring on the threads. The old ford fuel rail valves like people used to use on rp23 are beefy but they’re really bulky and I’ve noticed sometimes they don’t play nice with shock pumps.

I’ve since just gone back to using the pellets and filling with a needle adapter. It’s cheaper in the long run and having two valves on one shock was confusing the hell out of people I was fixing them for.

NICECNC Nitrogen Needle Kit with Needle Head Replacement for RZR's, Arctic Cat,Ohlins,Raptor truck shocks,Fox UTV,snowmobile shocks https://a.co/d/6om2N5s

There’s a cheap needle tool and you can buy 7mm oring cord to cut pellets out of
flag ZSW
O+
Posted: Jun 5, 2024 at 17:13 Quote
wilsonmortimer wrote:
O-ring cord, great idea. Thanks!!

Any reason I shouldn't use a standard flat bottom 5/16 - 24 set screw just in the body port not the nitrogen port? Having trouble with mine sealing. Plan to bleed while setting IFP depth with setscrew removed or mostly removed.

As far as a set screw goes I don’t think it would cause any issues. The pellet should really be doing the sealing either way though so I’m not sure why it wouldn’t be sealing. Just make sure the set screw doesn’t stick out any further than normal otherwise it will interfere with getting the air can on. Usually how I bleed them is by taking that fill port out and flipping the air can upside down on the damper body then filling it partially with oil. The you attach a syringe with no plunger to the ifp and fill with oil as well then gently cycle the shock until no more bubbles come up. Usually if I have time I’ll cover the shock with a plastic bag and leave it sit like that overnight in case any more bubbles come up out of the oil. Then in the morning cycle it a few more times and pull the syringe off and put the bleed plug in the ifp then dump the oil from the air can with the fill port facing up and pull the air can off. You can set the ifp now but I just put the fill plug in the damper body and set the ifp with the ifp plug out. Either way should work as long as you keep the port facing up

 


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